Problem with Lee Loader primer tool problem

[John in WI]

I recently purchased a used .38 Lee Loader off of ebay. The pieces are all there, everything looked ok. But I realized the priming tool isn't working correctly

If you've seen the device, it's a chromed disk will a hole in the middle that holds the primer. You set the shell in it's hold on this, and tap the device to seat the primer.

I've never used one of these things, but I thought the chrome disk piece was movable, I think on a spring. So you can center the primer in it, but it moves out of the way for seating. In mine, the chrome disk is pushed all the way down and stuck there. So the disk and the center primer seating portion are level with each other.

Has anyone experienced this? I just cleaned it in a sonic cleaner and have it soaking now in WD40 to try and free it up.

I just can't think of a safe way to use the Lee Loader without that. If I use a hand primer, then I need to bang a primed cartridge into the resizing die for filling/installing the boolit.

[725]

The Lee Loader can be tricky when setting the primer. Everything must be clean and free of grit that can touch off a primer. Following the printed instructions, just use the metal rod to set the primer by driving the case down over the primer. It all must be set in there evenly and force provided straight down. Don't cant it. The learning curve is pretty short, so after a few you should have very few discharged primers to deal with. Always gives me a start when I light one up. As far as the moving disk goes, yes I've had one get stuck, but I just wiggled it around and cleaned it, which fixed it. Good luck.

[John in WI]

I watched several vids about using it--the problem is the priming tool itself seems to be jammed. The chromed disk that rides above the primer seating thing is stuck all the way down. So now the chrome disk and the center primer seating protrusion are at the same height. I can't figure out how to free the disk. There is no place to try and get under it to lift it free. I tapped gently on it with a brass punch, but it doesn't seem to be something I want to really beat on.

[Green Frog]

I would first put a little Break-Free or PB Blaster on the edges of the disk and center post and let it soak a while. Then a couple of light taps on the disk should free it up. It is spring loaded, and since primers are involved, it really should work smoothly!

If that failed, I’d go with the old style hand held Lee priming tool and never look back, since that’s my first choice anyway! Lee Custom/Mequon figured this out and in their later Lee Loader sets included a nice red plastic priming tool. Which was great if you just had one size case head to load. Lee Precision later offered the Auto Prime hand tool series as a separate purchase.

An advantage of adding the hand primer tool is that accidental primer discharges are eliminated and having to stop to clean your skivvies is eliminated this way as well! :shock: :shock:

Froggie

[John in WI]

I'm wondering, using a hand primer, how the rest of the process works. That would require priming the case, then sizing it? How can that be done safely? I know squeezing the casings into the sizing die can require some significant beating.

Ugh, I save $15 on buying a used tool, then spend the rest of the time screwing around with it trying to make it work!

I had a Lee Loader for 12ga when I was a kid, and had no idea that lighting off a primer was a thing. I was working out in the garage and my mom and dad were doing some fall cleanup. All three of us nearly had a freaking heart attack.

[Rich/WIS]

Have you called LEE? Once the case is sized and then removed with the priming rod the case is set on the depriming chamber. If it is not all the way in the sizing die tap it in with the decapping base on the bench and then charge and seat you bullet. The priming chamber is for priming only.

[mdi]

I have used Lee Loaders with an alternate priming method (I like them and own 7). I size the case, knock the case out of the sizing portion of the die body, prime then return the case to the charging/seating end of the die body. I do this mostly because it fits my batch loading methods. I would suggest you soak the priming tool in some solvent for a day or two, try to get the disc free by pushing on one side then the other and hopefully it will free up.

I have one Lee Loader, 44 Magnum, that would pop 2 primers out of 10-12 tries. I got tired of changing my skivvies and worked on the problem. I cleaned up the tool making sure the disc was free, made sure there were no burrs in the disc or priming stud. Then I chamfered the primer pockets with a countersink, the same as I did to remove military primer crimps, and no more unexpected explosions...

[John in WI]

How do you check the disk? Is there a way to disassemble the tool and get it free? I can't figure out how the thing is assembled in the first place. If it's some kind of friction fit retention ring or what.

[John in WI]

I sent a picture to LEE, and they simply sent a link to order a new one. Free, I pay shipping.

For $10, I'm not going to mess with it anymore. But thanks for the thoughts and help.

[stubshaft]

Lee has great customer service!

[ulav8r]

It has been quite a while since I used my Lee Loader, but I never managed to set off a primer when seating them. I would push the case onto the primer by hand, rotate 180 and push again. Then if the primer had actually started I would tap it down with the rod while rotating the case between taps. If it did not start with hand pressure I would chamfer the primer pocket slightly and then seat the primers. Loaded with it for a few years before getting a Rockchucker and dies for the .308.

[Green Frog]

Used properly the Lee Loader can produce excellent ammo. The only real “weaknesses” in some sets were/are the lack of full length sizing. For rounds that thrive on neck sizing, the former is moot, and as I stated before, the original hand priming tool is light years ahead of the original stick and anvil method. IMHO, the late Mequon sets were the best of the best.

Froggie

Froggie

[Finster101]

"IMHO, the late Mequon sets were the best of the best."

Just sold this one. Bought it new, I do not think I ever reloaded a single round with it.


304755

[Electrod47]

Get on Youtube, everybody and his brother is showin off how they work a a load all.

[wilecoyote]

if someone knows a way to make work a brand new (or two) .44mag. L.L. without bashing the hell out of it to resize a case, I will be glad to learn_ I mean without other tools than a plastic hammer and some Imperial sizing lube_(no bench vises, hydraulic jacks, presses, etc.)_ and without damaging the plastic or wooden hammer and/or the case's head_
at today I can't, and I've considered the opportunity of some oil & sandpaper to ream his inside, but I would like hear first someone more experienced here_thanks to all_

(I have two L.L.s in .44mag: none of them seems defective_
the cases can be brand new, or previously resized with other dies (!), or from my S&W M29s. _any brand_ no difference _
I've all traditional dies and presses to do this work, Lee Hand Press included, but I'm mainly interested to know here If I'm doing something wrong or if the instructions are a bit optimistic, and if it I have a way, if any, to to make properly work these L.L.s following their leaflet before chucking them in a lathe etc. etc.)_

[barrabruce]

I mostly use a lead ingot from tipping over what I have left over in my lead pot.
It takes the ding and clang out.
With the 44 mag I used vasalene as case lube and a lead hammer after I wrecked the plastic insert.
I just wrapped cardboard around the hammer head and kept it their with tape.filled the screw section and cardboard reservoir with a large ladle/tin can of alloy I was using.

Makes for quieter loading and less case base beating.
I only had to neck size a wee bit. Like a thou to finger seat the cast bullets I was using.

I tried some other lube but it didn’t work to well.

Annealing the necks really helps.

I didn’t crimp for the single shot they were used for.
The de primer pin I taped up till it just fit into the neck of the case.
I found it difficult to get it into the primer hole at times.
I think the cases are hard worked and the bases are soft.
Hope it helps.

[Wayne Smith]

if someone knows a way to make work a brand new (or two) .44mag. L.L. without bashing the hell out of it to resize a case, I will be glad to learn_ I mean without other tools than a plastic hammer and some Imperial sizing lube_(no bench vises, hydraulic jacks, presses, etc.)_ and without damaging the plastic or wooden hammer and/or the case's head_
at today I can't, and I've considered the opportunity of some oil & sandpaper to ream his inside, but I would like hear first someone more experienced here_thanks to all_

(I have two L.L.s in .44mag: none of them seems defective_
the cases can be brand new, or previously resized with other dies (!), or from my S&W M29s. _any brand_ no difference _
I've all traditional dies and presses to do this work, Lee Hand Press included, but I'm mainly interested to know here If I'm doing something wrong or if the instructions are a bit optimistic, and if it I have a way, if any, to to make properly work these L.L.s following their leaflet before chucking them in a lathe etc. etc.)_

What are you lubing your cases with? Are you lubing your cases at all?

[wilecoyote]

Imperial Sizing Wax. I ever lube, Sir_

[mdi]

44 Magnums seems to be one case that is harder to resize than most handgun cases. My method was a good lubing (Mink Oil Boot Dressing) on a clean case and my plastic mallet (a dead bow hammer works well too.). I most often used a lead ingot/puck as an anvil and made sure I was hitting the case square in the bottom. The blows need to be a "forceful push" rather than a "tap, tap, tap". I have done hundred 44 Magnums and not damage any cases or the tool.

[fixit]

In my pre press days, I used a bottle capper as a press with my old style Lee loader.....no wack a mole, smooth and easy!

[wilecoyote]

I mostly use a lead ingot from tipping over what I have left over in my lead pot.
It takes the ding and clang out.
With the 44 mag I used vasalene as case lube and a lead hammer after I wrecked the plastic insert.
I just wrapped cardboard around the hammer head and kept it their with tape.filled the screw section and cardboard reservoir with a large ladle/tin can of alloy I was using.

Makes for quieter loading and less case base beating.
I only had to neck size a wee bit. Like a thou to finger seat the cast bullets I was using.

I tried some other lube but it didn’t work to well.

Annealing the necks really helps.

I didn’t crimp for the single shot they were used for.
The de primer pin I taped up till it just fit into the neck of the case.
I found it difficult to get it into the primer hole at times.
I think the cases are hard worked and the bases are soft.
Hope it helps.

...building a lead hammerhead before destroying my plastic one seems very reasonable. thanks for the input!

[wilecoyote]

44 Magnums seems to be one case that is harder to resize than most handgun cases. My method was a good lubing (Mink Oil Boot Dressing) on a clean case and my plastic mallet (a dead bow hammer works well too.). I most often used a lead ingot/puck as an anvil and made sure I was hitting the case square in the bottom. The blows need to be a "forceful push" rather than a "tap, tap, tap". I have done hundred 44 Magnums and not damage any cases or the tool.

again it seems that the creative use of lead as anvil to lower noise
and the forceful push concept can really pay off... Thanks again !

[Milky Duck]

I sent a picture to LEE, and they simply sent a link to order a new one. Free, I pay shipping.

For $10, I'm not going to mess with it anymore. But thanks for the thoughts and help.

now THAT RIGHT THERE is customer service done perfectly...good on you LEE.

[Milky Duck]

Champhering /countersinking primer pockets...just a wee twirl with your case mouth deburring tool does it too easy...and primers slip in oh so easily...dont get carried away,just a wee bit of brass removed,enough to take sharp corner off 1mm at most.

[W.R.Buchanan]

OK guys,,, there is a simple way to get around this problem. You knock the old primer out, then you size the case, then you start the new primer in the case,,, then you gently tap the primer home.

Better method: use a Small Arbor Press or Drill Press instead of the Hammer for all operations?

Third method: Buy a Lee Priming Tool and Seat Primers with that.

I bought my first Lee Loader in 1971 right after I got my first Centerfire Rifle, a Sako Forester in .243 Win. I bought the Lee Loader on a Saturday ($9.95) I had to wait til the following Saturday to go back and buy the simple Lee Priming Tool cuz I didn't like the hammer method of seating primers and this was the first time I had ever reloaded anything! I figured it out real quick and didn't even need blow one up in my face to get teh idea that there must be a better way!!!!

I didn't get a small Arbor Press until a few years ago, and never used the Drill Press either. Wore out my nice Snap On Plastic Mallet pounding cases into the sizing die over the years until I got a Rock Chucker.

I can always go back to a Lee Loader as it is the Simplest Method of Reloading Ammo there is, and this Basic Concept/Method/Tool has been around since ammunition could be reloaded. Lee just mass produced it and made it affordable.

I ALWAYS recommend newbies start with a Lee Loader so that they understand the process before they move on to machines that go faster or decide they don't want to mess with Reloading, which makes them fools, and I don't go any farther with fools.

YMMV!

Randy

I even recommend the Lee Loader for beginners over my BPM Hand Press which is the best there is. Available at www.buchananprecisionmachine.com It costs more than a Lee Loader!