my first attempt at casting

[RobP1]

This is my first attempt at casting bullets. I don't have an experienced caster to hold my hand so I'm basically fly by the seat of my pants here. What little I do know I've learned by reading this forum. I used my plumbers pot and propane stove and was constantly adjusting the temp. I did preheat the mold and at one time even had it to hot and the sprue took a while to set.I will use my Chromalox 50 from here on out because it holds a steady 730 degrees. I noticed some bullets came out shiny and most have a frosted look to them. What is the cause of this? Attached is a pic and any input is welcome. I need constructive criticism its the only way I've ever got better at anything. Thanks, Rob303802

[Dusty Bannister]

Good job. And you must have a very clean "cut" from the sprue because many times that little bump will not allow a long bullet to stand on the base. Looks like well filled casting and no obvious creases in the bands to leak gas past the bullet. The reason you have a different surface appearance is due to temperature fluctuation of the melt, as you already noted. That is not a big issue until you are shooting long distances with rifle bullets. This is due to the presence of antimony in your alloy. The minor difference in appearance can indicate a slight fluctuation in bullet weight and size. For me at my skill level these days, it is meaningless.

Many of us started out as you have, but without the benefit of the internet and only what could be gleaned from books and magazines. You seem to have a good grasp on the basics and understand what you need to improve in the future. You should be proud of your efforts to this point. Now you can practice and have fun.

[15meter]

And post where you live, there may be someone on here that is nearby that could help.

Over the years I've had a number of newbies in my shop to learn how to reload. Up to this point none for casting, but a couple have asked about it.

As for frosty boolits, temp is too high.

But frosty boolits shoot pretty good also. As long as I get good fill out and no wrinkles they get loaded. I don't shoot my cast boolits in competition so accuracy isn't as important as fun. For me, if the load rings a dinger reliably, it gets used.:Fire:

If you're not a member of a gun club, you may want to look into membership, I belong to three and go to a forth on a weekly basis.
The active reloaders at all of them are swapping, loaning and selling reloading and casting supplies and equipment continuously.

I'm currently resisting a Lyman 429303 four cavity for $50. Don't need it, don't even own a 44 but it's such a nice mold.......

I've got two boxes of 350 Legend brass in the truck right now to give to buddy who just bought a 350 Legend.

Biggest problem is convincing Joe he doesn't owe me anything for the brass.

[RobP1]

15meter, I'm in Northeast Ohio a little town called Ravenna. Thanks guys for the input. Rob

[15meter]

15meter, I'm in Northeast Ohio a little town called Ravenna. Thanks guys for the input. Rob

If I recall the story correctly, the Ravenna arsenal was put there because it has one of the highest percentages of cloud cover in the US.

Makes it tougher to bomb with WWII era bomb sights.

Don't know if it's true, but it makes a great story.

Anything left of the arsenal? I haven't been through there in years. Used to call on Lordstown GM in a prior life. Went past the arsenal several times on my way to the next customer.

[RobP1]

Oh you know it well! Yes that story is true. Its one of the cloudiest places in the country. There has been a lot of activity there in the past few years. And as you know no one knows what goes on in there. All I know is don't get caught in there without permission, they shoot first then ask questions. I live about 5 miles from the main gate.

[Land Owner]

Nicely done. Double check, by eye, the flatness and sharpness of each boolit base and its driving bands. Flat and sharp edges are desirable. Rounded base edges go back in the pot.

How much "roundness" can be tolerated? Are frosty boolits OK? Do boolit wrinkles and dimples affect accuracy? Only your barrel can "tell you" these. Shoot some. See what the target "tells you".

Spru cutting can leave a divot in the bottom of a boolit base, allowing comparable differences in weight from one boolit to another. Consistent cadence, heat, solidity of spru, others (more reading), can help.

Your target will tell you if the primer+powder+case+boolit+seating+barrel+shooter combination is accurate. So, in those, you can see accuracy is an equation in MANY variables, one of which is the cast boolit.

Your barrel will tell you if it likes the velocity and fit of your cast boolits. Barrel leading is undesirable (meaning more reading)...

If you have not already, download and read this castboolit Sticky, most of which is also applicable to RIFLES:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?110213-From-Ingot-to-Target-A-Cast-Bullet-Guide-for-Handgunners

Check out ALL of the other castboolit Sticky's too...found on EVERY castboolit Forum...for the wealth of information already gathered in this hobby within the realm of shooting hobbies...and don't stop asking questions. We were once where you are now.

[RobP1]

I've been going to a public range here locally but its limited to 200yd. I'm seriously thinking about joining the Thunder Valley Club, its a little drive from me but their range goes from 100yd. to 1mile.

[Soundguy]

cool the mold a hair and the frosting will stop. the alloy temp staying up a hair is good.. helps fill out.. but too hot a mold will frost..

[RobP1]

303804Land Owner, Thanks for the advice. The sprue seemed to be cutting pretty well. Here's a pic what do you think? Rob

[Larry Gibson]

RobP1

While you can pick up quite a bit of information on this forum and a lot of help you'll be better off in the long run to read, studyand learn the basics from a more comprehensive source with all the basics information in one place. I suggest you down load the Lyman #3 Cast Bullet Handbook then read, reread and study the informational "how to" section and articles in the front half. That's how most of us old pre internet casters learned. May seem so "last century" but it's still the best way.

[RobP1]

Larry, I just received that book yesterday and I also have " The Paper Jacket" on the way.Rob

[Soundguy]

Also read the book from ingot to target by Applegate and Fryxell.

[gwpercle]

"Frosty" is my indication the mould and alloy are getting at the right temperature . I like to cast mine at barely/slightly frosty ...
You get good fill out and a slight frost will help powder coat stick to boolit better .
I use a 20 pound Lee Magnum Melter 120v. electric pot and a Lyman Ladle , with the little side spout , to pressure cast .
A large electric pot is the best way to go ... and the Lee Magnum Melter is a great value . I never could master the bottom pour pot and just seemed to cast better boolits with a ladle and pressure casting .
Good Luck ...
Gary

[RobP1]

303816
"Frosty" is my indication the mould and alloy are getting at the right temperature . I like to cast mine at barely/slightly frosty ...
You get good fill out and a slight frost will help powder coat stick to boolit better .
I use a 20 pound Lee Magnum Melter 120v. electric pot and a Lyman Ladle , with the little side spout , to pressure cast .
A large electric pot is the best way to303816 go ... and the Lee Magnum Melter is a great value . I never could master the bottom pour pot and just seemed to cast better boolits with a ladle and pressure casting .
Good Luck ...
GaryGary, I cast these with my plumbers pot and a propane stove. I was constantly adjusting the temp. From here on out I'll use my Chromalox 50 64lb pot it holds a constant temp of 730 degrees.

[sqlbullet]

You didn't come and ask why your bullets were wrinkly. That is a huge win alone as most people really struggle with a cold mold when they make their first casts. Well done for avoiding that trap.

[super6]

Very nice first attempt, Get a handle on the tempt and your on your way!

[WRideout]

Beautiful boolits! you are doing everything right. Next will be figuring out the correct load formula for your particular rifle. I had to try five or six powders before I settled on H4895 for my Interarms 30-06.

Wayne

[imashooter2]

303804Land Owner, Thanks for the advice. The sprue seemed to be cutting pretty well. Here's a pic what do you think? Rob

Sprue cut looks good, base is way too rounded for me to accept. I would melt those and try again. A larger puddle on the sprue plate may help.

[pworley1]

Those are better than my first casting. Read the books you mentioned and have fun. Frosty bullets shoot just fine, but a little reduction in the temperature will get rid of it.

[RobP1]

Sprue cut looks good, base is way too rounded for me to accept. I would melt those and try again. A larger puddle on the sprue plate may help.Thank you, that's the kind of critique and advice I'm looking for.

[canyon-ghost]

In detail, the ones with voids at the spruce hole are too hot. I suspect that's why they'd be frosty. I have to open the mold and wave it in the air and drop the heat control down. They cut sprue a little too easily! It rips the hardening lead from the base. They'll be lighter in weight.
You can change temp at the mold itself by pouring faster for heat, and opening the mold( hesitating) for cooling.
I agree, your bases need to be sharp. Maybe more sprue metal on the plate. Good work.

[JoeJames]

I have not confessed to this before, but my first try at casting in a long time was not with a plumber's pot, but with a plumber's forge which uses white gas and had a pump on it like a Coleman lantern. It was a dismal try. Then I got a used Lee 10 pound pot from a member on here, and after that I eventually began to actually cast genuine sho nuff good revolver boolits.

[TurnipEaterDown]

I have not confessed to this before, but my first try at casting in a long time was not with a plumber's pot, but with a plumber's forge which uses white gas and had a pump on it like a Coleman lantern. It was a dismal try. Then I got a used Lee 10 pound pot from a member on here, and after that I eventually began to actually cast genuine sho nuff good revolver boolits.

I remember 2 nights 30 years ago w/ a white gas plumber pot melting down 1/2 ton of lead in an indoor rimfire/pellet gun range. Worked like Tony the Tiger says: GREAT! I did it with a friend and got the minority share, as it was all his equipment & access. That 250 lb got me going at the beginning of my casting!

[BLAHUT]

After casting and sorting for looks, i weigh every bullet and segerate by 1/10 gr, so all will be roughtly the same weight, every round in the 50 carterage box weightys the same> i use blackhorn209 powder in a 45/70, very consistance, i shoot long range, this is where your casting and lube will show up on target, i found 400yd and beyound, is where things get intresting ?? In the meantime you can use a cheap air gun to pratic at 10 or 15 meters and keep sharp>> .01$ a pellet is cheap pratice>>

[Stopsign32v]

I call bullcrap, no way that is your first time casting.

Those look GREAT man! Way better than my first attempt, I know that much.

[farmbif]

many times lube sticks better to frosted bullets.
job well done. once you get melting and pouring clean alloys its not all that difficult with a good mold to get good results every casting session.

[WinchesterM1]

15meter, I'm in Northeast Ohio a little town called Ravenna. Thanks guys for the input. Rob

If you ever make it to Ashland Ky hit me up, I will show you my set up, even though I’m 36 I’ve been casting for 20 years

[WRideout]

In detail, the ones with voids at the spruce hole are too hot. I suspect that's why they'd be frosty. I have to open the mold and wave it in the air and drop the heat control down. They cut sprue a little too easily! It rips the hardening lead from the base. They'll be lighter in weight.
You can change temp at the mold itself by pouring faster for heat, and opening the mold( hesitating) for cooling.
I agree, your bases need to be sharp. Maybe more sprue metal on the plate. Good work.

I cast with a fairly quick cadence, and have gotten molds too hot rather frequently. I didn't believe it until I tried it, but touching the hot mold to a rag moistened with a little water brings the mold temp right down, and allows me to continue at the same pace. I have gotten those base tearouts when I ran too hot.

Wayne

[Land Owner]

303804Land Owner, Thanks for the advice. The sprue seemed to be cutting pretty well. Here's a pic what do you think? Rob

Divots in the boolit base from the spru cut have been explained (post #22) and yours for a first time are "probably" not excessive. I would like to give you credit for boolit #3, hard and sharp edges, clean spru cut, but the picture is out of focus. That's a 75% rejection rate for those four.

Looking at the background boolits in the picture there are a lot of rounded bottom edges. You didn't mention the alloy used, Lead-WW-Tin percentages if known, so with a grain of salt, perhaps add a smidgeon of Tin to the alloy, between 1% & 2% by weight, a hot mold, hot melt, and hot spru plate should help with fillout of the mold and reduce rejection.

Still, kudos to you on your first attempt (ditto posts #16, #26, et al). Your boolits really look good. Shoot a few! That is also instructive. As mentioned (#25), weigh and sort them. There are differences not apparent to the eye and it will leave you with an itch as you wonder why...

...keep scratching.

[Shanghai Jack]

Not bad at all - agree with the comments regarding sharp edges on the bases. Old writing used to call the base the steering end. There were studies done about the bullet's flight after damage to the base, nose, driving band, etc. Damage to the base seemed to cause the greatest inaccuracy. More reading. Weighing is much easier now in the day of the digital scale. Agree with weighing

On the other side of the coin - after you get your casting down to an art where your boolits are coming out to your liking you can go full anal-retentive and do the cast only in a single cavity mold, weigh, sort, lube the day of shooting, index the bullet to the barrel and shoot in the order cast drill. I generally only go this route when I'm going to a match.

Somewhere in some of the old writings there was mention of the "fact" that no two mold cavities are ever the same, irrespective of the care taken in their manufacturing. The same writings mentioned that by changing the indexing of the bullet to the bore that one could change the impact of the bullet. There was talk of placing the rifles in a gun vise and changing the indexing of the bullet with respect to the bore from 12 o'clock, 1 o'clock, etcthereby essentially shooting a circle on the target without moving the sight position on target. one of these days I'm going to give this a try.

[RobP1]

The alloy is Lyman#2. I'll get out my digital powder scale and weigh them and compare the few with sharp bases to the rounded ones. The mold is .410 dia 420gr. with the front 2 driving bands reduced.

[charlie b]

Congratulations on your success.

As others have pointed out, temperature is the key. Pot temp control is a part of that. Casting cadence is the other part, ie, temp of the mold. It is better too hot than too cold......most of the time. I didn't get really good results until I started pre-heating the mold with a hot plate. Hot plate has to be set so the mold is near the perfect temp when you take it off the hot plate. Takes some experimenting.

So, another part of casting is to inspect and reject the bullets that don't meet your quality control. My method for rifle bullets is weight sorting. 0.1gn batches. As I do that I also toss out the ones with visible defects, rounded bases, wrinkles, bad fill out, etc. Then toss out the low weight ones.

When I started with rifle bullets I was lucky to get 50% good bullets. As my technique improved it got better and now I am at 90% keepers.

[Shanghai Jack]

Congratulations on your success.

As others have pointed out, temperature is the key. Pot temp control is a part of that. Casting cadence is the other part, ie, temp of the mold. It is better too hot than too cold......most of the time. I didn't get really good results until I started pre-heating the mold with a hot plate. Hot plate has to be set so the mold is near the perfect temp when you take it off the hot plate. Takes some experimenting.

So, another part of casting is to inspect and reject the bullets that don't meet your quality control. My method for rifle bullets is weight sorting. 0.1gn batches. As I do that I also toss out the ones with visible defects, rounded bases, wrinkles, bad fill out, etc. Then toss out the low weight ones.

When I started with rifle bullets I was lucky to get 50% good bullets. As my technique improved it got better and now I am at 90% keepers.

Anything with a "fin" on the side gets discarded as well. Means the mold wasn't closed correctly and the bullet will be unbalanced.

For pistol bullets e.g. 230 grain round nose 45 caliber I'm more forgiving than for a 32-40 schuetzen match bullet where I'll apply the whole magilla of procedures. I'm not as good as CharlileB for rifle bullets but I may just be more OCD.

[RobP1]

This is interesting. The mold suppose to be 420gr. I just went through and weighed them. They are .
404-407gr. Rotometals says the BHN is 16 with this allow. I'm wondering with a higher content of lead and lower content of tin if it would bring it closer to 420gr. This doesn't include the weight of the lube but that can't be very much.

[Jags93]

This is interesting. The mold suppose to be 420gr. I just went through and weighed them. They are .
404-407gr. Rotometals says the BHN is 16 with this allow. I'm wondering with a higher content of lead and lower content of tin if it would bring it closer to 420gr. This doesn't include the weight of the lube but that can't be very much.

Yes, the drop weight should go up the closer you are to pure lead or the softer the bnh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RobP1]

So, any idea how much pure lead to add to bring the BHN down to say 9 BHN from 16? 40 percent pure lead? Of course this is for when I start getting consistent casts.

[Dusty Bannister]

30 parts pure lead and 1 part tin makes about 9 BHN. Rather than trying to dilute the alloy with antimony in it already, better to start with the correct ratio and be done with it.

[gwpercle]

This is interesting. The mold suppose to be 420gr. I just went through and weighed them. They are .
404-407gr. Rotometals says the BHN is 16 with this allow. I'm wondering with a higher content of lead and lower content of tin if it would bring it closer to 420gr. This doesn't include the weight of the lube but that can't be very much.

Different mould makers cut their moulds to cast a specific weight boolit with a specific alloy .
Lyman uses Lyman #2 , another uses COWW , another uses 1/20 - tin/lead .
There is no way to cut a mould to drop a boolit weighing 420 grains with every alloy that can be mixed up and also with pure lead . The more lead the heavier the boolit will be...
but don't get all concerned if you alloy gives you a 407 grain boolit instead of a 420 gr. ... you will not find load data on 407 gr. boolits ...just use the load data for the 420 grain ... it will all work out and be okay !
Gary

[JoeJames]

30 parts pure lead and 1 part tin makes about 9 BHN. Rather than trying to dilute the alloy with antimony in it already, better to start with the correct ratio and be done with it.
I saw a reprint of an old mold catalog - I think it was Ideal back about 1905 or so. It stated their mold weights were based upon a 1 to 30 ratio.

[15meter]

Read here:

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

Lots of good info on lead and lead alloys.

And you don't even have to remember where to go to find the page when you want to review the info.

It's on the bottom of this page.:drinks:

[Land Owner]

If there is no Mfg Load Data for a 407 gr. boolit, use the closest LARGER and SMALLER boolit weights in the manual for [u]your powder [/]and estimate (stay within) those lower and upper limits. As I have always said, breakneck speed from the barrel and atomic pressure in the chamber are not pre-requisites to accuracy (i.e. MAXIMUM powder charge is not required).

[BLAHUT]

You didn't say what diamiter you were casting and what dianiter you are sizing too> the little bit of rounded ends may size out?? Shoot some and see what accuracy you get?? Then you will learn what is good and what is not ?? I cast all my bullets in pure lead so the only thing a little tare out from the sprue only effect weight< i weigh each bullet and segerate by 1/10 gr so when i load they all weigh the same>>

[RobP1]

Read here:

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

Lots of good info on lead and lead alloys.

And you don't even have to remember where to go to find the page when you want to review the info.

It's on the bottom of this page.:drinks: Thanks 15meter, I bookmarked it.

[RobP1]

You didn't say what diamiter you were casting and what dianiter you are sizing too> the little bit of rounded ends may size out?? Shoot some and see what accuracy you get?? Then you will learn what is good and what is not ?? I cast all my bullets in pure lead so the only thing a little tare out from the sprue only effect weight< i weigh each bullet and segerate by 1/10 gr so when i load they all weigh the same>>They're dropping at .410 and I'm sizing to .409 those rounded bottoms are going back into the pot today. I'm persistent to get it right.

[Shiloh]

Practice and experience will make them more consistent. I never had an issue shooting frost boolits.
Keep casting and doing everything the same.

Shiloh

[TurnipEaterDown]

I have some molds that tend to have rounded base edges when the pot is at a good temp, and the rest of the bullet looks good.
A corrective action mentioned in a prior post by someone is a larger sprue puddle, and while great advice, sometimes I can not get that to solve my problem.

So, being a ladle caster, I simply make sure the sprue plate stays nice and hot and the top of the mold / bullet base are given a little extra help in staying full during solidification by simply pouring another ladle full over the sprue plate before hardening. i.e. Pour a cavity, dip again, pour the next cavity, (if a two hole) pour another full ladle on the plate a try to manage level position such that I have the biggest puddle possible and most of it just flowing off the top of the plate.

Also, I find that some mold pin/plate lubes can raise havoc in my casting, so I really like a mold lube that I bought years ago off GB. I think it is a silicone based lube. It Must stay out of the cavities, but I just dip a q-tip in it now and then (not even once per casting session) and lightly wipe down the bottom of the HOT sprue plate with it. It will smoke slightly, and leave a coating that will allow you to run a hot sprue plate and absolutely stops lead smear if you shear any early.

These look like 40s to be used w/ BP, so probably not relevant, but if I get slight rounding like you show in your second picture, and it is a GC bullet, I never worry anyway. In my uses, I don't seem to find reason to obsess about perfect bases when using a GC. (Not talking really badly rounded edges here, only slight like you show.)

Plain base, I usually like them really sharp as even a slightly rounded base edge can make accuracy go to heck even at 50 yds in a pistol. I think if it was perfectly uniform rounding it shouldn't, but in trying to figure that out I have inspected many before and found if I had rounding it could be seen under magnification that it wasn't uniform around the perimeter. So, I just try to keep them nice & sharp.

[RobP1]

I have some molds that tend to have rounded base edges when the pot is at a good temp, and the rest of the bullet looks good.
A corrective action mentioned in a prior post by someone is a larger sprue puddle, and while great advice, sometimes I can not get that to solve my problem.

So, being a ladle caster, I simply make sure the sprue plate stays nice and hot and the top of the mold / bullet base are given a little extra help in staying full during solidification by simply pouring another ladle full over the sprue plate before hardening. i.e. Pour a cavity, dip again, pour the next cavity, (if a two hole) pour another full ladle on the plate a try to manage level position such that I have the biggest puddle possible and most of it just flowing off the top of the plate.

Also, I find that some mold pin/plate lubes can raise havoc in my casting, so I really like a mold lube that I bought years ago off GB. I think it is a silicone based lube. It Must stay out of the cavities, but I just dip a q-tip in it now and then (not even once per casting session) and lightly wipe down the bottom of the HOT sprue plate with it. It will smoke slightly, and leave a coating that will allow you to run a hot sprue plate and absolutely stops lead smear if you shear any early.

These look like 40s to be used w/ BP, so probably not relevant, but if I get slight rounding like you show in your second picture, and it is a GC bullet, I never worry anyway. In my uses, I don't seem to find reason to obsess about perfect bases when using a GC. (Not talking really badly rounded edges here, only slight like you show.)

Plain base, I usually like them really sharp as even a slightly rounded base edge can make accuracy go to heck even at 50 yds in a pistol. I think if it was perfectly uniform rounding it shouldn't, but in trying to figure that out I have inspected many before and found if I had rounding it could be seen under magnification that it wasn't uniform around the perimeter. So, I just try to keep them nice & sharp. Yes these are for a 40-65 high wall. but I'm shooting smokeless 5744. For the sprue plate I'm using the bullshop sprue plate lube. I'll probably eventually move to BP but I'm not set up to load BP as of yet. I'll be trying my second attempt today using my Chromalox smelter instead of the plumbers cast iron pot with propane burner. I think I'll be able to control the temps a little better and also I'll use a hot plate to warm the mold.

[super6]

Man, You just got a pot load of good info, Hope your 2nd attempt works well for you! Do not forget the wet rag and get a cadence. I had to figure it out on my own.

[gwpercle]

When you apply lube to a mould , I use mostly synthetic two stroke oil on a Q-Tip , and apply to top and bottom of the sprue plaTe and to the top of the blocks (to prevent lead sticking , smears and galling ) my Biggest problem was applying Too much ... the lube film only needs to be one molecule thick ... too much on top of block/underside of sprue and it contaminates boolit base and will get down into cavity . I wipe off my moistened w/lube Q-Tip , apply the thinnest coat I can and then take a rag and wipe off the lube ... this leaves just enough of a super thin film , lead doesn't stick and the lube doesn't contaminate the alloy .

It took me a long time to learn just how little lube is needed and how easily you can contaminate a boolit with too much mould lube .

Just another tip for your memory banks !
Gary

[DonHowe]

RobP1

As others have mentioned, you need to control your alloy temp. Your bullets show me you are getting the feel for casting. Keep your ally temp steady then try to keep your casting routine steady. Your alloy temp may be steady at say 700° but trying to cast too fast will overheat your mold. This is easily avoid by filling the mold and giving the sprue time to harden adequately (when it turns gray).
The reading suggested by others is helpful but then you need to just cast bullets because you improve by doing it. DI Not give up! When you encounter a problem you can't figure out just post your question/problem.

[RobP1]

303900303898303897Well today's 2nd attempt had mixed results. It was kinda of frustrating with a 15 mph cool breeze cooling things off quite fast. I'll be building some windshields for the chromalox and hot plate. It seems when I would let the mold cool enough to get that mirror finish I would always have a crack or void somewhere. Even the ever so slightest but never the less there would be one. I did take the advice and try and pour a larger sprue and I think the bases did improve somewhat. Using the Chromalox I had to sit and pour and for some reason it just wasn't comfortable to me. Probably because I was a structural Ironworker my whole life and never worked a day sitting down. If you notice in the pic the two bullets in the front right are a couple of the shiny ones with voids. A lot of bullets went back in the pot. But I refuse to submit to failure. Tomorrows another day.

[Soundguy]

Did I hear you say you were using Lyman #2 alloy? If yes, it has plenty of tin for good fill out. You will learn good cadence in time. Go for no voids and full fill out.. A little frosting won't hurt anybody but a bench rest or extreme range shooter.

Lastly..some boolit finish artifacts are from the mold. Check it.. Oxidized surfaces can cause a frosted appearance. A good cleaned mold thats candles and wiped out should give ok results. Again..dont let a little frosting bother you. Hood fill out and no voids are more important.

[imashooter2]

Better. Melt them and try again. Casting is as much art as science. You were an iron worker so you know it to be true. Practice the art.

[canyon-ghost]

Not too bad, make a run of bullets to get matching weights. Those look good. I wouldn't get too fussy about shiny, frosted could work.
I know about having to stand up, I stood at a welding table for quite a while. Can't cast sitting down.
Ron

[imashooter2]

Raise the pot to where it needs to be to suit you. Arthritis has me sitting these days, but I used to stand…

http://imashooter2.com/pictures/castset1.jpg

[Wag]

You're learning. Nothing wrong with that.

I find that instead of using a wet rag, I use a small block of cold lead as a heat sink. I set my mold on there between pours and it really does the trick keeping it cool. If that block gets too warm, I switch out to another cold block and I'm off and running again. If you need to, you can even set the mold on the block with the hot lead in it to cool it a bit faster but as others have said, once you get a rhythm going, you'll figure out the "how long" part as you go.

Keep on learning. It's utterly fascinating!

--Wag--

[RobP1]

This morning I'm reading the Lyman cast bullet handbook. I realized a major mistake I am making. I haven't been turning the mold 90 degrees and placing the ladle nipple right into the sprue hole then rotating back to level. Now I'm excited to try attempt #3. Some of the free pours I was doing were all over the place. Chalk it up to ignorance, I should have read more and done more research before jumping in with both feet. Oh well I have always learned more from my mistakes than my successes.

[JoeJames]

This morning I'm reading the Lyman cast bullet handbook. I realized a major mistake I am making. I haven't been turning the mold 90 degrees and placing the ladle nipple right into the sprue hole then rotating back to level. Now I'm excited to try attempt #3. Some of the free pours I was doing were all over the place. Chalk it up to ignorance, I should have read more and done more research before jumping in with both feet. Oh well I have always learned more from my mistakes than my successes."turning the mold 90 degrees and placing the ladle nipple right into the sprue hole then rotating back to level" = pressure casting = That has sure worked for me. I am certainly no expert at all, but it works.

[jonp]

Well done, I'd say

[jsizemore]

Could you post some close up pics of your mold block faces and the top of the mold blocks closed with the sprue plate open? Not looking for microbes but need to see detail.

[Land Owner]

Including everything else to cure wrinkles I found "Heating the Spru Plate" in this chapter of Glen Fryxell's book:

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_8_IdleMusings.htm

[JoeJames]

From Ingot to Target gave me the idea of putting the mold into the pot bottom side up to heat the sprue plate. That works too.

[15meter]

Yes these are for a 40-65 high wall. but I'm shooting smokeless 5744. For the sprue plate I'm using the bullshop sprue plate lube. I'll probably eventually move to BP but I'm not set up to load BP as of yet. I'll be trying my second attempt today using my Chromalox smelter instead of the plumbers cast iron pot with propane burner. I think I'll be able to control the temps a little better and also I'll use a hot plate to warm the mold.

If you haven't used 5744 before, be aware it does not burn completely. There will be un-burned kernels in the barrel and chamber. In my 50-70 trapdoor and 43 Spanish I tilt the barrel down and give a big puff in the chamber to blow out the kernels. If not I get a dented case on the next round. The double rifles I load 5744 it's not as big a deal. Opening the barrels, the barrel drop and hitting the max open seems to knock most if not all the kernels out.

At one time Accurate had a warning in their literature to be aware of the incomplete combustion.

Crazy part is how well 5744 can shoot, even with the "stuff" left in the barrel.

I've been shooting it for almost 30 years, wouldn't have even tried it but came across 3 pounds for $10, total. It was sitting on the shelf in a party store that occupied the building of a defunct gun shop. Apparently the prior owners had left it there and the new owners were trying to just make it go away with out throwing it in the trash.

Bummer that it is now hovering around $50 a pound.

[oley55]

RobP1 is this fun and challenging or what??? I wish to God I had gotten into casting a long time ago. Of the whole reloading process, casting my own bullets seems to light the old fires better than anything else. Of course actual shooting is way more fun, but dang...there's just something about casting.

[RobP1]

RobP1 is this fun and challenging or what??? I wish to God I had gotten into casting a long time ago. Of the whole reloading process, casting my own bullets seems to light the old fires better than anything else. Of course actual shooting is way more fun, but dang...there's just something about casting.I'm having a great time learning and this site has reduced the learning curve dramatically. Thanks

[JoeJames]

The ultimate experience for me was when I found that my own home cast bullets were just as accurate if not more accurate than store bought cast bullets. That was what I was hoping for, but just did not expect.


304096

[RobP1]

304211I'll take some better pics today.
Could you post some close up pics of your mold block faces and the top of the mold blocks closed with the sprue plate open? Not looking for microbes but need to see detail.

[Soundguy]

The ultimate experience for me was when I found that my own home cast bullets were just as accurate if not more accurate than store bought cast bullets. That was what I was hoping for, but just did not expect.


304096

And very likely cheaper and lubed better and with a superior alloy. Many commercially cast bullets are super hard and use a super hard lube, that way the bullets survive the retail experience of shipping stocking, etc..and aren't dented and abraided. The super hard alloy and lube are usually less than optimal for anything other than punching targets. ( they may not expand as well on game..and may require more cleaning ). Your home cast with hand touched alloy, size and a better lube are just all around better usually.... They just have to set in a jar or box till needed..not shipped 1000 bumpy miles and handled by 32 people before you buy them and bring them home.
Last commercial cast I bought were 22 hardness and had a hard green lube..harder than candle wax..could have been straight melted green crayons for all I know. I shot and dug a few out of a berm, no lube left..didnt like that.. So I aloxed them so I didn't have to clean lead out of may barrel.