Setting an M1A/M14/M1 for hunting.

[megasupermagnum]

I have some helpful tips for those who would like to hunt with America's last great battle rifles. There's tons of accuracy information online, so I won't get into that. Instead I want to focus on what I did to make mine a great hunting rifle. I started with an M1A scout (formerly bush model), which is identical to the standard M1A except it has a light profile 18 1/2" barrel. Right off the bat you are loosing weight, and reducing the overall package size. I then replaced the front sight base with a threaded one. Now there is nothing wrong with the flash hider it comes with, but it's about 3" extra length which has no benefit to hunting. Mine is now a plain muzzle, but alternatively you could run a suppressor which does have benefits for it's size. I might run a suppressor on this eventually. The scout squad comes with a barrel clamped on picatinny rail for optics. Junk that thing. If you want an optic, buy a real mount such as the one from Sadlak. I'm using the peep sights as god intended. The only thing I did to the sights was paint the front my now standard bright orange. What you end up with is a trim rifle, but there isn't much you can do about weight. In my case I went with a big wood stock, and had it bedded for accuracy. Mine is 9 pounds 1 ounce unloaded. You can knock some ounces off with a synthetic stock. It will never be a light rifle. I have heard you can remove the metal butt plate and storage compartment, and it is a worthwhile loss of weight. I'm not sure I have the heart do do that. Just eat less, and do more push ups.

Moving on to more specific and practical matters, the first thing is the magazine. There's usually nothing stopping you from using the standard 20 round magazine. I found Springfield makes a 5 round magazine that sits flush with the stock, and that might be a good option if you like to carry your rifle one handed. You can't really carry this one handed with the standard magazine, the balance point is right over the magazine. I don't see any benefit to the 10 round magazines.

Finally what I found to be the Achilles heel of my rifle was the noise it made. Everything made a ton of noise. Starting off with just chambering a round. If you fill the magazine and drop the bolt it makes a twang you could hear a mile away. It almost hurts the ears if it wasn't so beautiful. Instead what I found to be best is to put a round directly in the chamber, push down on the next cartridge in the magazine to release the lock, and gently lower the bolt on the round. Then give a firm rap on the handle to snap the bolt over the rim and fully chamber the round. It's not quiet, but it's at least similar to anything else. I'm sure everyone knows to not drop the bolt on a chambered round due to the slam fire risk. I'm also guessing slamming the bolt over the rim isn't the greatest for the extractor, but for hunting it should be fine.

I found that my forward sling mount rattled a ton with a cheap sling. I found a leather sling works a lot better. The extra bulk keeps the metal from tapping on the stock. For extra protection I'm putting a bit of tape where the ring is mounted to the tab. This seems to keep the ring from rattling inside.

Then we have the safety. Some are good, some are bad. Mine was definitely bad. No matter what I did, even slowly moving the safety forward while catching it between my thumb made a startling crack. It made the rifle completely unusable for hunting. Luckily the trigger groups are one of the slickest designs ever. I took a careful look at mine, and the problem was obvious. The hook on the safety that captures the hammer was so far short it was pulling the hammer down considerably when the safety was engaged. After looking at it closer I realized there was no reason for this to be. The safety has two points on it. The hook captures the hammer from falling when engaged. The other is a tab behind the trigger arm, and it blocks the trigger from being pulled at all. So the hook seems to be a drop safety, and the tab seems to be the actual shooter safety. I see no reason at all that the hook has to contact the hammer ever. I've confirmed with others that the hook can be fitted to the hammer. Apparently this is a common problem, but usually the complaint is the safety is too hard to use. I took a small file and filed the hook of the safety a little, assembled the trigger group, and tried it. After three tries I had it perfect. The hook just barely clears the hammer, but doesn't actually touch. The difference this makes in use is amazing. Not only is it easier, the safety is practically silent now. It still clicks when you flip it off quick, but if you capture it with your thumb, this is probably the quietest safety I've used. It went from being the worst to the best. If nothing else, this is the most important mod you should do to your rifle for hunting. Links are below on how to take apart the trigger group of an M14.

With any luck this now perfect rifle will be killing a bear in one week.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFP4s6zE96A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ui1KJkv7lo0

[BadgerShooter]

When its crappy or really close quarters, I love hunting with my Socom. I taped the handguard and the front sling swivel also. Shot a buck in a blizzard with it and crawled through a cornfield tracking a wounded deer for another hunter with it. Worked excellent both times. Mine is not a tack driver, but it is plenty functional on whitetails in crappy, close conditions. Good luck on the bears! I lost my bear hunting buddy a few years ago and it's hard to do it without him.

[Larry Gibson]

Back in the early '80s before SA came out with the "Bush" model I had the barrel of my rack grade M1A shortened to 18" and rethreaded for the original flash suppressor. It had a 12" twist milsurp barrel. I put it in a milsurp glass stock removing the butt metal and putting a recoil pad on. I also steel bedded two strips of conduit inside the forend which took the flex out of it. I bedded the action as per the AMU instructions back then. Stock weighed 1 1/4 lb less and was very handy.

I loaded 311041 HPs cast of an alloy mentioned in the cast bullet hunting articles in Lyman #3 CBH, sized at .311 with Hornady GCs over 4064 for right at 2150 fps. They maintained 2 1/2 moa accuracy at 200 yards with the issue sights. I killed several mule deer, coyote and lots of jack rabbits with that set up.

[stubshaft]

My garands are accurized so the is no rattle from the upper handguard at all. I tied a piece of knitting yarn around the front sling swivel to insure it did not rattle and that is pretty much it. They (I have two a Harrington and Richardson and Springfield) have dropped a number of hogs, sheep, goats and deer.

No matter what ANYONE says the 30/06 is, was and always will be a heck of a hunting cartridge!

[ATCDoktor]

Of the several M1A’s I own the only one I’ve hunted with is my Scout Squad:

https://i.postimg.cc/w3KFrQMR/IMG_1477.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/BtW13hxs/IMG_1476.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

I bought it used out of my LGS about 10 years ago and it’s bone stock except for the custom paint job, the added bipod mount and the suppressor.

I killed quite a few hogs with it set up with an old Bushnell Holosight.

I smashed these two using funky water stained Zinc plated Silver Bear 145 grain soft points I picked up for 15 cents a round back in 2013 from J&G sales (shoulda bought 10 cases at that price).

https://i.postimg.cc/d3wQsmqB/528BB1E9-B83F-40B8-929C-B75F05E443D5.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/MH56vMH8/F8423ED8-1D05-4065-A1D5-0DF58CCE5096.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

I set it up with a Scout Scope and it’ll easily group 5 rounds into about an 1.5” at 100 yards using 175 grain Nosler Custom Competition bullets and 42 grains of WC846.
https://i.postimg.cc/CxpbZhX3/7008-E868-1231-424-F-9-E24-668-EB7-BFCF12.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Kosh75287]

I was wondering about what ammunition types might be used in these rifles for hunting. Using cast reloads at reduced velocities occurred to me, but I wondered about messing up the gas port.
I wondered if 150 - 180 gr. soft-points launched at velocities appropriate to an M1A would be in the right "velocity band" for proper expansion on target. Perhaps the velocities obtained from bolt-action and other rifles are not that much greater.

[Winger Ed.]

I only took my rack grade M1A deer hunting one time because I'd had it several years and hadn't killed anything with it yet.
OPPPSS,,, I should have said 'harvested'.... my bad.

To minimize the noise and rattle,
I took the sling off, and when I got all situated in a blind, chambered a round and took the safety off.
I was less than comfortable doing that.
When I saw a deer walk by about 1/2 hour later--- I shot, and killed it with a Sierra Game King.
After that, I never went hunting with it again.

Not because I felt bad with it, I just went back to my Rem 700.

[megasupermagnum]

I was wondering about what ammunition types might be used in these rifles for hunting. Using cast reloads at reduced velocities occurred to me, but I wondered about messing up the gas port.
I wondered if 150 - 180 gr. soft-points launched at velocities appropriate to an M1A would be in the right "velocity band" for proper expansion on target. Perhaps the velocities obtained from bolt-action and other rifles are not that much greater.

The load I have for mine is a NOE 311-179-FN, which is a Saeco 315 clone. I casted it of 20:1 alloy and lubed with TAC 1. The load is 35 grains IMR 3031. It has been some time since I tested it, I want to say it is ballpark 2100-2200 fps. I've only shot this load at 50 yards, and zeroed for that. The bait is set 35 yards from the blind. I don't really know how it shoots, and I don't really care. It's surprisingly accurate at 50 yards, but most things are.

I put somewhere just over 400 rounds of cast bullets through this rifle before I cleaned the gas system. It had always functioned 100%. I found nothing unusual in the gas system. The port was completely clear. The gas block was sooty from powder. The piston just had some crud on the end from powder. I saw no evidence of lead at all.

[dale2242]

The only game that I have harvested with my M! was a black bear.
The load was a Ball equivalent with Sierra 150 gr bullets.

[Mk42gunner]

I was wondering about what ammunition types might be used in these rifles for hunting. Using cast reloads at reduced velocities occurred to me, but I wondered about messing up the gas port.
I wondered if 150 - 180 gr. soft-points launched at velocities appropriate to an M1A would be in the right "velocity band" for proper expansion on target. Perhaps the velocities obtained from bolt-action and other rifles are not that much greater.
There is a very long sticky started by BruceB in one of the lower sections about shooting cast in the M1A/M14.

I wouldn't worry about getting lead deposits in the gas system, it is all easily accessible for cleaning.

Robert

[badwolf]

What do I have to do to put my suppressor on my scout?

[Larry Gibson]

Is your suppressor a screw on or a quick attach via a suitable flash suppressor?

[ATCDoktor]

What do I have to do to put my suppressor on my scout?

If you already own a suppressor, you will most probably need to get an adapter for to support its attachment to the barrel.

Some manufacturers make a mount that's threaded .595 X 32" (Standard M1A thread pitch) will attach directly to the M1A's barrel but those are not that common.

The most common way to mount a suppressor to your M1A is to buy a 5/8X24" adapter (the most common thread pitch for US made 30 caliber cans) that replaces your front sight base and (if your can is direct thread) mount it directly to the adapter or if its you can is "fast attach", screw your mount on to the adapter and thence mount your suppressor to your mount.

So, to use pictures to show you how it works when you use a 5/8X24” adapter:

You gonna remove this:
https://i.postimg.cc/9MZVt7Bt/EA67-F4-A1-0-F66-4891-B49-B-643-E1773157-A.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

And replace it with this:
https://i.postimg.cc/zG2JJ5BW/F7-D1-E9-D9-58-B2-4109-8-DD9-2-AA32-BB6658-C.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

The male end of this adapter is threaded 5/8X24 and will allow for you to attach your mount or your can.

Here’s a “zoomed in” picture of the adapter and my mount on the rifle:
https://i.postimg.cc/6pqXbS0Q/DF840528-BF0-F-478-C-8-C1-F-91-C5-C2-F24-BEF.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Here’s a link to the adapter I used:
https://www.deltapdesign.com/products/deltapdesign/muzzleadapter/m1a/595/m14-m1a-muzzle-adapter

Smith Enterprises makes one as well that might be a little cheaper.

Keep in mind that the adapter for the 16” M1A SOCOM is different.

[Geezer in NH]

Hunted 1 season with my M1A1. Never again too heavy I will pass as I see no need for that platform for hunting.

I also hunted 1 season with a FAL not as bad as the M1A1 as it was built with a Williams Aluminum Receiver made as light as possible. It was nice but started hunting with Flintlocks and never went back.

Shot that FAL with Port surplus over 4K rounds with no crack of the receiver. Friend, I sold it too has the gun at over 10K still going strong. I tried wilting the barrel at a Green Mountain boys shoot [barrels were cheap then] got a great red glow but that was it took over 20 mags rapid fire. Fals are super guns!!!

[megasupermagnum]

Hunted 1 season with my M1A1. Never again too heavy I will pass as I see no need for that platform for hunting.

I also hunted 1 season with a FAL not as bad as the M1A1 as it was built with a Williams Aluminum Receiver made as light as possible. It was nice but started hunting with Flintlocks and never went back.

Shot that FAL with Port surplus over 4K rounds with no crack of the receiver. Friend, I sold it too has the gun at over 10K still going strong. I tried wilting the barrel at a Green Mountain boys shoot [barrels were cheap then] got a great red glow but that was it took over 20 mags rapid fire. Fals are super guns!!!

I'm not here to judge, I'm a muzzleloader hunter myself, and in the process of building a golden age longrifle. I do think it's odd you write off a 9 pound M1A as too heavy, but a flintlock, presumably longrifle is fine despite also running about 9-10 pounds. Of course it depends on your rifle style and barrel profile, but I've not heard of a lot of flintlocks under 8 pounds.

A shotgun slug is the ideal black bear over bait round, but I wasn't sure I could handle it this year after my shoulder surgery. So I chose a semi auto 308 which has minimal recoil. I can't think of a better gun for hunting pigs than an M1A, although an AR10 would be just as good.

Happy hunting anyway.

[megasupermagnum]

What do I have to do to put my suppressor on my scout?

You just need that front sight base that ATCDoktor posted that has threads. I have heard you might want an adjustable gas plug as well, but I'm guessing that would be mostly for full pressure ammo. I don't think you would want it for cast bullets.

[Milky Duck]

OK....so we arent allowed semiauto rifles for hunting here anymore....I have briefly used an old SLR ...beautiful rifle.... for hunting rounds at close range...EG sub hundred yards yo uwill be VERY hard pressed to find a better round than bog standard winchester power point 180grn softpoint loads... they just plain old work...AND the recoil impulse is less than the same load in 150 grn.... red deer die very quickly and because the projectile is soft,you get great expansion and a good sized exit hole...blood trails look like a 4" paintbrush has been used...and trail is hardly the word as it wont be very long.
Ive used those rounds in both a bolt action and the BLR lever with devestating results on both deer and pigs/hogs.....

[Geezer in NH]

At 70 I am not hauling a boat anchor around. My .40 FL weighs 6 1/2 pounds my .54 weighs 8 1/2 pounds. The FAL and M1A was great when 40 yrs old not now.

If I need to carry a .308 I will haul my Rem 700 at 7 pounds with scope.
I have never found a need for a big magnum shotgun to hunt anything but that's me.

What is odd to me is you breaking my butt about it.

[badwolf]

My suppressor uses griffin taper mount or I have a 5/8x24 direct thread adapter. I guess I could use a griffin flash hider.

[Larry Gibson]

My modified M1A as mentioned earlier in test. I shot the coyote from the low hill to the left of the jeep, 200+ yards. Was using 130 gr Speer HPs at 2800 fps.

304043304044

[badwolf]

Did you get the bear op?

[405grain]

Larry: Nice picture. Question - The speaker on the front of your jeep; are you using your jeep as your predator call? That's such an awesome set up, but I'd get in so much trouble with something like that. I'd have it hooked up to a PA system so that when I'm at an intersection in town I can say "The light's green Bozo!" :grin:

I only went pig hunting twice with my M1. It was heavy + I didn't see any pigs on those 2 hunts.

[Larry Gibson]

Yes, the speaker was connected to an old last century (it was still last century) tape deck caller. When going through high sage I'd put the jeep in 1st gear low range and let it idle along. You could actually walk faster than the jeep was moving. The sage off my left shoulder in the background ran 4 - 5' tall. There was another road through it and that's' where we first saw that coyote. The passenger, Jack, would stand in the back and watch for coyote to come out onto the road or into clearings or shorter sage areas. If a coyote came out or was seen I would pop the jeep out of gear and stop. We would exit the jeep to shoot. That way we avoided the "hunting with the aid of a motor vehicle or shooting from a vehicle" regs. Sometimes, if there were 3 of us in the jeep, and the coyote appeared off the either side, the passenger would just step out and crouch. The coyote's attention would be focused on the jeep still moving which most often gave the dismount a good opportunity for a good shot. It proved to be an effective method. However, one thing I've learned calling coyote is when you think you've got the answer to the question, they change the question......

TAnd so, that particular coyote changed the question as he had come out of the sage on the left onto the road, stopped and looked at us less than 50 feet right in front of us. He gave us the oh-oh look, went 3 feet straight up, spun around and hit the ground already in 6th gear over drive. Jack (my partner in the photo) yelled he was running hard for the open area on the left of the arroyo. I gunned the jeep, and we made it to the high ground which wasn't far away, stopped the jeep, dismounted and immediately hit a kneeling position. Jack had to get out of the back of the jeep, so I was maybe one second quicker on the trigger when the coyote cleared the high sage and then stopped at about 200 yards....mistake. The 130 gr Speer HP took him clean and he was DRT.