Marlin 93 38-55, tell me about it.

[rosewood]

Just bought one of these. Looking for brass and see 2 lengths listed by starline. Should I go with the long or short. Also bought some 260 grain hunters cast boolits, they don't have gas checks, but rhey are cast for one. Is this going to cause leading? Load recommendations.? Is this gun safe for standard load data published?

Thanks

Rosewood
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[rosewood]

Gun is in good shape and is mechanically sound.

[ulav8r]

Do a chamber cast to measure chamber\brass length. Paraffin cast should be good enough. Use the longest brass that does not exceed chamber length.

[rosewood]

I have some cerrosafe. Will use that.

Bolt was gummed up. I took apart to clean, but am not positive which way the firing pin spring goes. I can't find any videos online showing this. Anyone know which way the spring goes?

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Deadeye Bly]

Get the long brass. The short brass is a Winchester modern thing. The 38/55 is a Marlin cartridge from the Ballard era. The bore on your rifle is to the old specs and is probably .379 or .380 groove diameter. Sometimes bullets loaded this diameter won't chamber. Unless the barrel is marked "Black Powder Only" it is good for loads in loading manuals. Best of luck with it.

[HWooldridge]

Your rifle appears to be in great shape. I had one just like it back in the '70's - loaded a 255 gr bullet, cast from wheel weights and lubed with 50/50 Alox/beeswax. Can't recall the load but seem to recall I used IMR 4198. It was a tack driver and I killed a couple of deer with it. Wound up selling it to a friend for more money than I thought it was worth at the time.

[fordwannabe]

As a starting point try that bullet with 9-10 grains of Unique. It may not be the best load but it has worked in many 38-55s over the years. The spring goes in first then the firing pin. It makes the firing pin retract when not under hammer pressure. Do you also have a bore slugging kit??? That is something that should be done on 38-55s as the bore measurements are all over the place. I have 375 through 381 bores. Good luck and keep us posted.

[Shawlerbrook]

Great advice above. Slug the bore, get the long brass and 9-10 grs. of Unique is 38 55 perfection. Mine was made in 1900 and the .379 boolits work great.

[rosewood]

Thanks for the tips guys. Guess I likely have 500 boolits that are undersized at .376. Will have to slug the bore and see. Maybe I can strip off the lube and powder coat them..

[rosewood]

Is the firing pin spring symmetrical? Maybe mine is broke, one end is straight other looks kind like it has a hook/bend.

[barkerwc4362]

Marlin 1893s and 93s have a two piece firing pin. The spring is not symmetrical. My is a late 1893 built about 1904. The barrel is a 26 light round replacement that is from about 1906 or so and is marked "Special Smokeless Steel" like the ops. It has a bore of .376, so I size to .377. I shoot the RCBS 250gr FNGC, which actually weights about 265gr cast out of a Lyman #2 equivalent. I use 4895 to get about 1300 - 1400 fps. A great hog killer.

[rosewood]

Thanks barker. Do u know which way the hook on the spring goes? Toward front longer firing pin or smaller rear?

[John Taylor]

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/marlinglenfield/rifles-marlin/1893-early-model . There should be a little groove in the bolt for the end of the firing pin spring to sit in. This spring pushes down on the rear portion of the firing pin so the gun will not fire if the lever is not closed all the way. The locking lug pushes the rear part of the firing pin up to aline with the front part of the firing pin. Hope this all makes sense.

My father picked up a 93 for working on a car many years back. Story on the rifle was that it was found in a miners cabin and the barrel and mag tube had been bent. It was a 25-36 rifle but when it was sent back to Marlin for repair it came back with a 30-30 carbine barrel. After it got handed down to me I found an original 25-36 octagon barrel but it had pore rifling so it was one of my first rifling jobs to take it out to 38-55. It didn't shoot quite as good as I would like and I thought of putting a liner in but handed it down to my daughter instead. The butt stock had three notches in the bottom just behind the lever, We always speculated as to what they were for, three bears, three Indians or three claim jumpers.

[Loudenboomer]

My Marlin 93 38-55 likes .380 cast boolits. You may find shorter brass will chamber the larger bullets better. Unique speed powders at about 1300 FPS shoots cast 255 gr in most rifles well. Marlin rifles in good condition with slower powders easily safely reach 1800 fps.

[rosewood]

John, are u saying the crown of the spring goes down and the hook up into the bolt? Does that hook go toward the front or rear of bolt? Figured I would ask before taking apart again.
I did figure out how the lever and firing pins work together for safety. But it seems to work no matter which the way the spring is positioned. But if I don't have it right, it might come out at the wrong time.

Thanks!

[John Taylor]

John, are u saying the crown of the spring goes down and the hook up into the bolt? Does that hook go toward the front or rear of bolt? Figured I would ask before taking apart again.
I did figure out how the lever and firing pins work together for safety. But it seems to work no matter which the way the spring is positioned. But if I don't have it right, it might come out at the wrong time.

Thanks!

There should be a small cut in the bolt for the lip to fit in, crown goes down.

[rosewood]

Perfect. Thank you. I think it was in upside down when i took it apart. Even see wear marks where it was upside down.

[rosewood]

Figured out the spring is broke. Gotta order one now

[rosewood]

Slugged the bore. .371 lands/.379 grooves. I had previously ordered 500 .376 boolits when I ordered dies. Dangit.

[rosewood]

There should be a small cut in the bolt for the lip to fit in, crown goes down.

There is no cut in the bolt, I checked from one end to other. Did u mean firing pin? Could this be the way it goes? The notch in the firing pin isn't deep enough, so I will have to fit it.
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[rosewood]

Firing pin broke and I ordered 2 of them since I found out it is the same for my 1895 and 336. Figured out the pin had been "repaired". I think someone welded a new tip on it, but didn't fit it right. The tip still protruded a bit when the slide was back. Got new one fitted and it is 100% better than the old one. Now I am waiting on my mold to cast some boolits and a expander ball to convert 30-30 brass to 38-55 for my initial testing until I can find the correct brass.

Now the question is, is the finish on the receiver supposed to look like this? The barrel is normal blue, but the receiver looks almost shiny.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[ATCDoktor]

From the factory it would have been color case hardened and would’ve looked something like this one (refinished 1893 in 32/40).
https://i.postimg.cc/YCVy02YS/226-CF279-786-D-4719-9-B5-F-4-F6-AE1335-B1-E.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
The colors over time (due to handling, cleaning and exposure to sunlight) will fade leaving the receiver looking like yours.

Depending on how the rifle was stored/maintained it could have turned brown like this one:
https://i.postimg.cc/26pySXgw/116-E77-F3-859-F-4044-A420-5-E8-A5-FA6-E90-F.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
https://i.postimg.cc/bvSd8jVr/2F1D2571-01F4-46F6-BD51-8584E0302FA9.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Unless your rifle has obvious signs of heavy buffing/sanding on the receiver the colors just faded over time.

[rosewood]

Gotcha. I think I can sloppily brush blueing on it and make it look a lot like your first one. :)

I do believe it is just age, no signs that anyone has done any polishing on it.

I spotted a couple of similar aged guns at the LGS, one a Marlin and the other a Winchester, mine looks 2000% better than both of them and they wanted a mint for them. I really think I am going to like this one.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[John Taylor]

There is no cut in the bolt, I checked from one end to other. Did u mean firing pin? Could this be the way it goes? The notch in the firing pin isn't deep enough, so I will have to fit it.
304412


That's the way it goes, my faulty memory is the problem. Just had one apart the other day.

[rosewood]

That's the way it goes, my faulty memory is the problem. Just had one apart the other day.

It surprised me, with all the things on the internet, I couldn't find the first video or picture showing how that firing pin spring went. Even the utube videos discussing taking the bolt, only took it out of the gun, no one ever showed how to take the bolt apart and put back together, it is simple as can be, but when you don't have pictures, it is hard to tell for sure. And when you have broken parts and don't know they are broken, it makes it more of a challenge.

Rosewood

[rosewood]

Noticed this little nub on the barrel is scratching the boolit and brass going in. Is this normal? Can I file it down? Or is there a purpose of it?
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Don't mind all of that crud in there. It isn't leading, just needed a good brushing.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Rosewood,
The barrel chamber side of the stub, left over from the cutting of the extractor slot on the RH side of the barrel, I'm guessing a bit here, would benefit from filing a radius on the rear lip barrel side of the stub. Randy may weigh in on lifter timing here. Does it scratch when you operate the lever slowly, or fast? The "snail cam" on the lever may have worn a groove on the underside of the lever, affecting how,when, and where the loaded bullet is presented to the chamber.
I wouldn't try to remove the stub completely, just soften the offending edge where it's scoring bullet and case. A bit tricky to get to effectively without removing
the barrel. (lol, I love my takedowns, no problem whatsoever in working on the breech for just such a situation).

One barrel, the 38-55, has the stub almost completely worn off, The 32-40 is complete and stands proud, and sharp in the breech side edge. Neither barrel
has presented your problem in my case, but frankly, due to bore condition of the 38-55, and a shortage of brass for the 32-40,I haven't shot either very much.
Your pic also presents a case for radiusing the lower chamber edge while you're at it.
My $.02, FWIW (for what it's worth)

[rosewood]

Thanks for the tips.

I was thinking just that, round off edges on that stub. Will be a challenge to get in there and work on it and not bugger anything else up in the vicinity. I want to radius the chamber mouth, but currently don't have a tool that I think would be suitable for that. Unless maybe a tapered grinder bit would work??

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

" I used a 6 flute Severance Countersink on an extension and turned it by hand" W.R. Buchanan

The above from the "Sticky";
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?381904-Chamfering-the-Chamber-Mouth-on-your-Marlin-1894-rifle

It'll make things a lot easier if you at least remove the bolt, and
I've found everything else, including bottom trigger plate. With all the guts out you can get a half round file to the
offending lip(s). A piece of 1/2"dowel with a 45 degree bevel on the end with a bit of crocus cloth glued/wrapped around it might work.
My recommendation is to do it by hand. One slip with an eg., Dremel, could be ugly. The stub on the LH side can be gotten to
with a small flat file with the lower plate out of the way. You won't get much of a file stroke, but it can be done.

[Rockindaddy]

My Marlin 1893 in 38-55 likes 375 Winchester brass. Cast bullets sized and lubed to .380 work great! Starline makes great brass. They just sell out of a particular run and eventually go back to running the sizes they have the most requests for.

[rosewood]

" I used a 6 flute Severance Countersink on an extension and turned it by hand" W.R. Buchanan

The above from the "Sticky";
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?381904-Chamfering-the-Chamber-Mouth-on-your-Marlin-1894-rifle

It'll make things a lot easier if you at least remove the bolt, and
I've found everything else, including bottom trigger plate. With all the guts out you can get a half round file to the
offending lip(s). A piece of 1/2"dowel with a 45 degree bevel on the end with a bit of crocus cloth glued/wrapped around it might work.
My recommendation is to do it by hand. One slip with an eg., Dremel, could be ugly. The stub on the LH side can be gotten to
with a small flat file with the lower plate out of the way. You won't get much of a file stroke, but it can be done.

Had to look up what the 6 flute countersink is and realized I have one. May give it a try if I can figure out a way to hold it. It is designed to fit on a drill.

I also have a 79degree muzzle crowning cutter, wonder if that would work or would that be to shallow of an angle to work?

Thanks for the info.

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Rosewood,
Just take it slow and ez, you'll get there! It doesn't take much to "break" that sharp lip. As Randy points out, it can be incorporated
into the chambering reamer. The barrel steel is not that hard, a bit of wet and dry 240 grit wrapped around your finger could be enough.

[rosewood]

Any issues with seating the boolit short of the crimp groove? Will I have enough purchase to keep the boolit in place in the mag tube? I am using a lee factory crimp die collet type.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

You can get a lot of pressure with the FCD. You should be able to get the
case lip into the boolit below the radius of the nose. Or trim the case to a length where you are positioned in the groove.
That's what Hornady does on their "factory FTX" ammo, I think for 444 and 45-70. Easier than lengthening the action, which
can be modified to increase COAL.

Check out "Forster Case Trimmer" on Ebay. Great little tool, a hand turned mini lathe. You do need to get a collection of pilots
etc, but used they're not too badly priced.

[rosewood]

You can get a lot of pressure with the FCD. You should be able to get the
case lip into the boolit below the radius of the nose. Or trim the case to a length where you are positioned in the groove.
That's what Hornady does on their "factory FTX" ammo, I think for 444 and 45-70. Easier than lengthening the action, which
can be modified to increase COAL.

Check out "Forster Case Trimmer" on Ebay. Great little tool, a hand turned mini lathe. You do need to get a collection of pilots
etc, but used they're not too badly priced.

My problem is I am using 3030 brass and it is too short. I want to seat the boolit out closer to the rifling.

I already have a manual and powered case trimmer.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Aaah, if that's the case, you should have no problem getting a solid crimp on the boolit body. I'm assumiong you're running cast boolits.
One test I came across was to take one of the "hammer" type bullet removers and the FCD
crimped cartridge and give it a good whack. If it doesn't come out on that first blow, you're good to go.
Also, the nature of the folding in of the case at the lip/mouth should prevent the boolit going INTO the case.

[rosewood]

Aaah, if that's the case, you should have no problem getting a solid crimp on the boolit body. I'm assumiong you're running cast boolits.
One test I came across was to take one of the "hammer" type bullet removers and the FCD
crimped cartridge and give it a good whack. If it doesn't come out on that first blow, you're good to go.
Also, the nature of the folding in of the case at the lip/mouth should prevent the boolit going INTO the case.

Yes, cast Powder coated sized at .380.

Thanks!

[Rrusse11]

Personally I wouldn't be at all concerned, the "wedge" or bevel you'd be
fighting with driving the boolit into the case would dig the case into the boolit.
The inertia remover action is in the direction of the bevel, straightening it out, not folding it even deeper.

Shooting heavy loads with a full magazine, think additional mass, might lead to making the crimp even deeper, but I doubt you'll
be generating that much force. Nowadays I much prefer the 1/2, 2/3 magazine. We're not dealing with hordes of attackers
circling the wagon train when conceivably you'd need 10rds. The "spray and pray" mentality sells a lot of magazines.
Just make the first shot count.

[pull the trigger]

I can't believe no one has said it yet, PLEASE DONT ADD BLUING TO THE RIFLE ANYWHERE!!! Leave it silver and keep it oiled. PLEASE

[beltfed]

rosewood,
Alliant Reloader 7 made for a very good deer hunt load with the 255 or the 265 grain gas check bullet
in my M1893 38-55 as well as my 336 CB. It is accurate, no xs pressure signs and clocked about 1750
Check the handbooks. Lyman No. 4 CBH
beltfed/arnie

[rosewood]

I can't believe no one has said it yet, PLEASE DONT ADD BLUING TO THE RIFLE ANYWHERE!!! Leave it silver and keep it oiled. PLEASE
I have not.

[rosewood]

rosewood,
Alliant Reloader 7 made for a very good deer hunt load with the 255 or the 265 grain gas check bullet
in my M1893 38-55 as well as my 336 CB. It is accurate, no xs pressure signs and clocked about 1750
Check the handbooks. Lyman No. 4 CBH
beltfed/arnie

My PCd boolits are dropping at 250 and rl7 has been the ticket. Hitting right at 1700, no leading or pressure signs.

[Rockindaddy]

Nice looking rifle Rosey! I like the short magazines. Tough finding 38-55 Win brass. I found a couple hundred once fired 375 Winchester cases. They work good! I use a Lyman .375 mould. I throws a .378 dia boolit. Have fun!

[rosewood]

Will the lyman tang sight for the 336, 1894, 1895 fit the 93? It is factory drilled and tapped on the tang that are 1 1/8" center to center with 8-40 threads.

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

The Lyman #2? Should do, give Lyman a call.
https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/lyman/sights/2-tang-sights/the-no-2-marlin-tang-sight

[rosewood]

The Lyman #2? Should do, give Lyman a call.
https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/lyman/sights/2-tang-sights/the-no-2-marlin-tang-sight

They told me they don't make one that fits my gun with the screw spacing. Said I might be able to drill and tap another hole to match. I did find Marbles makes one for it, or at least appears to fit, will have to verify with them their hole spacing.

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Personally I find the tang mounted sights a bit uncomfortable with the grip. Lately I've been
shooting with the Marbles Bullseye sight, a double ring barrel dovetail mount.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1828132532/

[rosewood]

Personally I find the tang mounted sights a bit uncomfortable with the grip. Lately I've been
shooting with the Marbles Bullseye sight, a double ring barrel dovetail mount.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1828132532/

Thanks

[missionary5155]

I use Tang sights on our old Marlins and just accept the gains over the loss of a little comfort.

[rosewood]

Personally I find the tang mounted sights a bit uncomfortable with the grip. Lately I've been
shooting with the Marbles Bullseye sight, a double ring barrel dovetail mount.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1828132532/

Did u have to replace the front sight to match? Also what is purpose between the 1.875" and 2.75" length?

Thanks,

Rosewood

[rosewood]

I use Tang sights on our old Marlins and just accept the gains over the loss of a little comfort.

What specific brand/model sight do you use? Does the front have to be replaced to match?

Thanks,

Rosewood

[Rrusse11]

Rosewood,
I'd recommend the longer Bullseye sight, it's just a question of where the dovetail is on the barrel. I found the shorter one was
substantially more difficult to adjust. Assuming here that your old Marlin is the same dovetail placement as mine, the longer
one works great for me. And at $20 from Midway, it's an affordable option. Works well for me.

[rosewood]

Thanks!