The Lee Loadmaster defeated me

[Stopsign32v]

I'm broken. And this is where if you guys want to, you say "I told you so". Blue vs Red and IMO right now Blue must be winning because Red sure ain't!

Now I guess if there is any silver lining it is that, this is my first day of progressive reloading. But I've so far wasted a decent bit of brass, powder, and a whole lot of time! Where to begin...I've never come across a priming system that gave so many problems. Probably came across 5-10 sideways primers which lock up the whole system and require you to remove the shell plate, priming system, and remove the primer. I believe at some points I had the shell plate too tight which caused powder spill because of having to give more force to progress the handle/system. I was shooting for 3.9gr of Titegroup for 9mm 115gr and weighed some after a knock or two and it was down to 3.5gr. This caused me to second guess most if not all of what I had loaded and unless I can verify, I will not use the loads.

I thought maybe I could load a test (labeled it test twice on the case) with a primer and only a 115gr, weigh it, zero it out, and this give me a baseline for weighing my cases to see what they had in them. But I believe the inconsistencies with brass weight and what not didn't allow for that. Some were only 1.5gr over the zero which I know isn't possible. Big ol disappointment all the way around today...I did get to order some Southern Shine Media today though. Excited to use that!

Man...Just not good stuff. At this point I'm stepping back and getting a game plan. Really thinking about priming off the press at this point...

[Walter Laich]

Southern Shine Media is a sure winner.

I've been using it for years and am a very happy customer.

cuts the cleaning time in half

[Finster101]

At one time I had four Pro 1000s set up for different calibers. As long as I primed off press, they ran fine. Not trying to beat you up or say I told you so, so please don't take it that way but, that is what all of us Lee users were trying to tell you. I had no issues with anything else on the 1000s. If Lee would come up with a reliable priming system they would be hard to beat especially at their price point. I am a late convert to blue. When I retired a couple of years ago, I started shooting quite a bit more and found that I needed an upgrade on my equipment. The money not spent on valium and zanax easily off set the cost of the 650. [COLOR="#4B0082"] [COLOR="#000000"]I think if you just try priming a few off press and run them, you will find the press does everything else pretty well.

[Jeff Michel]

Always primed off the press, Lee 1000's are a bear in that regard. If you want to prime on the press, Dillon 550C works just fine.

[Bird]

For monitoring the powder delivered to each case, the RCBS powder lockout die may help you with your pistol reloading.
Here are a couple of links for you,
https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2020/05/rcbs-lock-out-die-helps-prevent-faulty-charges-on-progressives/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_EnGSeVtoc

After priming the brass off the press, move the powder drop to the first station, and the powder lockout die to the second station.

[Stopsign32v]

For monitoring the powder delivered to each case, the RCBS powder lockout die may help you with your pistol reloading.
Here are a couple of links for you,
https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2020/05/rcbs-lock-out-die-helps-prevent-faulty-charges-on-progressives/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_EnGSeVtoc

After priming the brass off the press, move the powder drop to the first station, and the powder lockout die to the second station.

This will be a for sure thing.

Is this possible for .223 by chance? Doubtful since it's such a small hole but would be nice.


Really and truthfully, if I don't prime on the bench that will open up a lot of options! So maybe it's a good thing.

[Finster101]

Yes, you should be able to get a powder check die that works on .223. The Dillon powder check has the different size plungers that drop into the case mouth and I know for a fact it works on .223.

[dverna]

Don’t give up yet. There are plenty of folks using Load Masters so someone will help you sort it out.

It may never be a Dillon but it should operate decently.

If you cannot sort it out after a month, get rid of it. Using a progressive that will only allow cases to get charged with powder, seat bullets and crimp is not going to save you much time. And that was why you bought it.

I have been down that road and I know what you feeling.

[Stopsign32v]

Don’t give up yet. There are plenty of folks using Load Masters so someone will help you sort it out.

It may never be a Dillon but it should operate decently.

If you cannot sort it out after a month, get rid of it. Using a progressive that will only allow cases to get charged with powder, seat bullets and crimp is not going to save you much time. And that was why you bought it.

I have been down that road and I know what you feeling.

Don,

You have great points! I foresee this press sticking around until about this time next year. I think I will be ready for Blue by then. But I will get my money's worth out of this!

[Stopsign32v]

I plan to watch this fully and try his tactics

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xs0LP77_r3I&t=606s

[Winger Ed.]

It's definitely a learning curve- with any of them.

As far as 'unloading' goes- I'd highly recommend just pulling the boolits and not trust what the loaded cases weigh.

[Stopsign32v]

It's definitely a learning curve- with any of them.

As far as 'unloading' goes- I'd highly recommend just pulling the boolits and not trust what the loaded cases weigh.

Ed what bullet puller to you use? I got the blue Frankford I think plastic one from Academy and it's less than fun to use.

[Stopsign32v]

So thinking out loud here, it is a 5 station press and if I do decide to prime off the press.

Station 1) Full length sizer die
Station 2) Expander/Powder charge die
Station 3) Powder lockout die
Station 4) Bullet seating die
Station 5) Factory Crimp die

[Winger Ed.]

Ed what bullet puller to you use?

Those plastic hammer looking impact pullers I think are all pretty much the same.
At least they look like they're all made by the same company.,
but are just a different color for whoever sells them. I have green RCBS one.

You might could say, "It's fun, and it's real, but it ain't real fun to use".

The little Alum. holder things go straight into the Alum. recycle bucket.
Instead, I use the shell holder from a single stage press.
A trick with them is to hit them on something real solid like the end of a vise, or a concrete floor.
Banging them on a wooden table doesn't work nearly as well.

[Finster101]

Those plastic hammer looking impact pullers I think are all pretty much the same,
but just a different color for whoever sells them. I have green RCBS one.

The little Alum. holder things go straight into the Alum. recycle bucket.
Instead, I use the shell holder from a single stage press.
A trick with them is to hit them on something real solid like the end of a vise, or a concrete floor.
Banging them on a wooden table doesn't work nearly as well.

+1 on using a shell holder. Striking them against a lead ingot has worked well for me.

[Three44s]

Concrete and steel damage the tool. I use a solid block of oak to back stop my impact puller.

As far as the Loadmaster goes, I would hang in there. There are a lot of people running that press here on Boolits, they will help you.

Three44s

[Bird]

So thinking out loud here, it is a 5 station press and if I do decide to prime off the press.

Station 1) Full length sizer die
Station 2) Expander/Powder charge die
Station 3) Powder lockout die
Station 4) Bullet seating die
Station 5) Factory Crimp die

Yes, the 5 station press will work nicely set up that way. I use a 3 station pro100, but do not use the factory crimp die.
I think the lockout die does not work with the 223 or rifle cartridges, as they are too long. The die is intended for 9mm and up pistol cartridges. If you need more info call RCBS, you will find them very helpful.

[Winger Ed.]

Concrete and steel damage the tool.

I can vouch for that.
Mine was pretty beat up after I sat in the driveway and unloaded about 400 .45ACPs I got from a questionable source one time.
The screw on collar finally died of old age, and split so I had to get a new one a few years ago.
I'm taking a little better care of it.

[mdatlanta]

I plan to watch this fully and try his tactics

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xs0LP77_r3I&t=606s

Good content in that video. One thing he doesn’t mention in the video, but is doing, is to ensure the Loadmaster is mounted so there is NO movement of the press as it is being operated. That is what seemed to solve the priming problems with my press. Also, using the latest version of the priming system—LEE has made several updates over the years.

Don’t give up!

[wilecoyote]

if we mean the thread of the screw cap, I suspect it would have yielded anyway even if the hammer had been used on wooden block only. I know it.
I then bought a F.A., of which I use the blue screw cap on the green RCBS that served me for 20 years, and I like better.
On the F.A. I fixed with a hose clamp a plastic cap (drilled in correspondence with the primer hole) usually used on furniture legs, and I keep it as a back-up tool, because certain things happen to me systematically at night. including silly jobs. I know it :-)

[Ajax111]

Just curious, did you check the OAL of the shells? Were they consistent?

[Kenstone]

I'm broken. And this is where if you guys want to, you say "I told you so". Blue vs Red and IMO right now Blue must be winning because Red sure ain't!

Now I guess if there is any silver lining it is that, this is my first day of progressive reloading. But I've so far wasted a decent bit of brass, powder, and a whole lot of time! Where to begin...I've never come across a priming system that gave so many problems. Probably came across 5-10 sideways primers which lock up the whole system and require you to remove the shell plate, priming system, and remove the primer. I believe at some points I had the shell plate too tight which caused powder spill because of having to give more force to progress the handle/system. I was shooting for 3.9gr of Titegroup for 9mm 115gr and weighed some after a knock or two and it was down to 3.5gr. This caused me to second guess most if not all of what I had loaded and unless I can verify, I will not use the loads.

I thought maybe I could load a test (labeled it test twice on the case) with a primer and only a 115gr, weigh it, zero it out, and this give me a baseline for weighing my cases to see what they had in them. But I believe the inconsistencies with brass weight and what not didn't allow for that. Some were only 1.5gr over the zero which I know isn't possible. Big ol disappointment all the way around today...I did get to order some Southern Shine Media today though. Excited to use that!

Man...Just not good stuff. At this point I'm stepping back and getting a game plan. Really thinking about priming off the press at this point...

What I did...
I cleaned up a bunch of SPENT primers and used them to setup/debug the priming system of my loadmaster, without any other dies installed.
I used them over and over to tweak the adjustments until the priming system ran 100% BEFORE moving on to the next station (powder drop).
I suggest you do that while following along on the vid you posted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xs0LP77_r3I&t=606s
I had to use close captions because I could not hear the guy though!!

And consider the advice I posted about de-priming/chamfering in your other thread:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?446049-So-I-need-some-help-Just-got-into-progressive-wet-tumbling-and-Lee-APP-HELP!!!!&p=5443827&viewfull=1#post5443827
Lots of you tube vids on the Loadmaster on youtube too.
jmo,
again, good luck on your quest.
Note: the comments from the blue fan boys are not helping this guy here.

[jetinteriorguy]

Before I retired my Loadmaster this was my final setup. Deprime, clean, and prime brass off the press. Then station one size brass without depriming pin, station two flare and powder drop with Pro Disc, station three powder check die, station four set bullet by hand and seat with die set just enough to remove flare, and finally station five crimp. This is for pistol only, I’d never load rifle on a progressive press, that’s just me. I still finally retired this press simply because the system for rotating the shell plate is just too unreliable, at least in my case. I did load upwards of 10,000 rounds trying to just make this thing work before giving up and just going to the Classic Cast Turret. The Turret is just so simple, smooth, and utterly reliable it was a welcome relief from the headaches of the Loadmaster.

[Finster101]

"Note: the comments from the blue fan boys are not helping this guy here."

What has anyone said that was out of line? I'm not trying to bash the guy. My main suggestion was to prime off press which is exactly what you are recommending. Lee's main downfall has always been the priming system. That was the only thing mentioned as a negative to the press. I wish him the best of luck because I have been in his position. I certainly did not sit down at my first Pro 1000 and start making good ammo. I'm only try to pass on my frustrating and at times expensive experience.

[Stopsign32v]

Before I retired my Loadmaster this was my final setup. Deprime, clean, and prime brass off the press. Then station one size brass without depriming pin, station two flare and powder drop with Pro Disc, station three powder check die, station four set bullet by hand and seat with die set just enough to remove flare, and finally station five crimp. This is for pistol only, I’d never load rifle on a progressive press, that’s just me. I still finally retired this press simply because the system for rotating the shell plate is just too unreliable, at least in my case. I did load upwards of 10,000 rounds trying to just make this thing work before giving up and just going to the Classic Cast Turret. The Turret is just so simple, smooth, and utterly reliable it was a welcome relief from the headaches of the Loadmaster.

Well a few things...

1) I'm going to setup my loadmaster exactly how you did. And I'll be honest late yesterday evening I went back out and took her down to the basics and I ran into an indexing issue with the shell plate! It would index for about 4 strokes and then the indexing rod would be dead. Fixed that I think but sheesh! When it rains it pours!

2) I'm really thinking about getting a turret press to have on the side for rifle loading, especially my 300 blackout I plan to start. I don't know what brand I will do but more than likely Lee again. But maybe not, I haven't even looked into it yet.

3) I will get this Loadmaster working for me at some point, hopefully this week.


I just want to make this clear, if anyone here is thinking of buying a Lee product or a Loadmaster do not take my pitfalls to sway your decision. I'm the type of person that IF it could go wrong it will go wrong. Plus I literally just started less than 24 hours ago so it is some learning pains.

I might not even mess with getting the primer system to work for this simply because I would like to change around the loading process on the Loadmaster and this is something you CANNOT do unless you delete the priming station. The priming system very well might work fine, I'm just doing something wrong. But more than likely we just will never find out. I would like to skin the cat from a different angle that works better for me personally.

[Martin Luber]

For one, l removed the index bar and hand index; it's smoother.

Two Be sure to lift the priming rocker arm so it and the punch aren't stuck down.
I quickly and manually slide the black primer slider into place before raising to prime. this prevents most of them from tipping over as they get into place. I think either my punch is short or the carrier frame is slightly deformed. The legs that support the rocker are fragile and can wear. It's a weak point. I use this press for match ammo because it's smooth and my special dies won't fit the Star loader

[Stopsign32v]

For one, l removed the index bar and hand index; it's smoother.

Two Be sure to lift the priming rocker arm so it and the punch aren't stuck down.
I quickly and manually slide the black primer slider into place before raising to prime. this prevents most of them from tipping over as they get into place. I think either my punch is short or the carrier frame is slightly deformed. The legs that support the rocker are fragile and can wear. It's a weak point. I use this press for match ammo because it's smooth and my special dies won't fit the Star loader

What do you mean you removed the indexing bar?

[guzma393]

I dubbed my loadmaster as the lemonmaster for a reason. I gave up the on the priming system and I just prime off the press. I dont put anything on station 1 due to too many ruined brass from the shell feeder rocker being finicky. I mainly use it for 308+ progressive loading; it's faster than the turret; I've settled down on this process;

- decap and resize if the brass is clean enough after firing on station #3 (didn't touch the ground/not sooted up); When re-sizing stout cases, i.e. annealed 7.5swiss brass back to k11 specs fired from a k31, the shell carriage (atleast myns does) has a tendency to mis-align from the ram no matter how tight I set the carriage, causing indexing issues. This is primarily why I size separately from the rest of the processes.

- tumble cases clean, brass prep (trim, swage, inspect, chamfer/debur, etc.)

- Prime off the press; Done with a lee ram prime installed on a turret/APP press (I reload mixed HS brass, some pockets tighter that others and the ram prime seems to really seat them in for reliable firing).

- Running primed cases, I neck expand on station #2 (for casts), powder drop on station #3, check powder and seat the bullet on station #4, crimp on #5. Indexing is smooth and straightforward.

Overall, I'm content on what my loadmaster does. I reserve my lee auto breech lock pro as the dedicated 9mm progressive loader; this press has the same type of priming system as the lee turret press (simply just a primer arm to just handfeed into from the downstroke). I run all stations for 9mm:

- starting with clean, lubed 9mm and inspected cases (culling out the stepped cases, crappy norma small flash hole brass, military brass, etc.); resize/decap on station #1. Lubed cases makes a big difference in sizing effort vs. unlubed.
- starter install primer on primer arm, prime 9mm case on the upstroke; charge powder on station #2 on the downstroke while inspecting station #1 shell feed into resize decapper. Install another primer on primer arm from the down stroke for the next case in line.
- Upstroke to seat primer, install bullet to seat on station #3.
- Downstroke to seat bullet, install primer.
- repeat last two steps with station #4 applying crimp.

[Stopsign32v]

- Prime off the press; Done with a lee ram prime installed on a turret/APP press (I reload mixed HS brass, some pockets tighter that others and the ram prime seems to really seat them in for reliable firing).


How does this work? Was thinking of hand priming but once it was dialed in my Lee APP impresses me.

[Martin Luber]

What do you mean you removed the indexing bar?

The 1/4" square bar that indexes the shellplate. It slides in and out

[Stopsign32v]

The 1/4" square bar that indexes the shellplate. It slides in and out

Oh I see, you said you hand index. I'm sure it's smoother but at some point we are getting to missing the point of a progressive press and a turret becomes faster and easier.

[slim1836]

I gave up after a year if messing with my loadmaster, I too had issues in figuring things out, and believe me, I really wanted this to work. Sold it on Craigslist within a couple of days and was much happier. That's just me, If I can't adapt to it in a period of time, it's going somewhere else. I gave it my best shot. YMMV

I've got 2 single stage presses and enjoy them, a Lyman and a Hornady. I may try a turret in the future if funds become available.

Slim

[Livin_cincy]

Try watching GunBlue's videos on the press.

The timing and alignment are easy to adjust.

The press cannot be slammed as hard and as fast as you can go. Figure 400 per hour. A primer cup on a turret or Single stage press has to be learned to properly seat primers.

Most problems are a misunderstanding of the directions.

[megasupermagnum]

I guess you could say I'm a Lee guy.

It's been one day. Just take a deep breath. You can figure this out. No matter what problem I'm working on, reloading or not, I like to start with the easiest first. In this instance it sounds like you have indexing problems, and since you have only owned this for a day, I'm going to assume you have not 100% dialed this press in yet. I think you will find any priming issues are a lot easier to solve when things are working smooth as they should be.

Unfortunately I don't know much about the loadmaster. Mine is a Pro 1000. On the Pro 1000 it has an indexing ratchet. It also has a screw to advance or retard the timing of the shell plate. It's a stupid simple system with very little issues. I've never had a problem with it myself. I just watched a video on the loadmaster indexing system and it is nothing alike. It definitely doesn't look as slick as a pro 1000. I've not heard of a ton of indexing problems with the loadmaster though, so I'm sure whatever your issue is can be solved. A quick google search found a reference to the case ejector possibly binding if misadjusted. Another reference makes it sound like you can rotate the entire shell carrier on the ram, and this has to be rotated so the indexing rod is tight against the frame. The very first thing you should do is sit down with the instructions. There is likely something in there that has been missed. Lee instructions are usually good, most problems can be solved from them.

I wouldn't load any ammo until the press is working. You would only be wasting time. I set my presses up one thing at a time. I don't even have dies in until I have my case feeder and shell plate set up perfectly. Then you can adjust one die at a time. I wouldn't even mess with your powder measure until the very last step. Again, like primers, you are likely to get much more consistent results when everything else is working smooth. Having to bang and jam your way though is never going to produce consistent powder drops.

[guzma393]

It simply converts any press that can accept single stage shell holders into a single stage bench priming system. I used to hand prime with an RCBS hand prime system, but it gets arthritis inducing pretty fast when you got over 1k+ to prime, or you got that one case with a tight primer pocket that refuses to seat properly using the hand primer tool.

I was looking into getting the lee ACP (auto case prime) press as it is supposed to be a lee APP repurposed for universal case auto priming.

[David2011]

Those plastic hammer looking impact pullers I think are all pretty much the same.
At least they look like they're all made by the same company.,
but are just a different color for whoever sells them. I have green RCBS one.

You might could say, "It's fun, and it's real, but it ain't real fun to use".

The little Alum. holder things go straight into the Alum. recycle bucket.
Instead, I use the shell holder from a single stage press.
A trick with them is to hit them on something real solid like the end of a vise, or a concrete floor.
Banging them on a wooden table doesn't work nearly as well.

My RCBS Pow'r Pull finally gave up the ghost tonight. The handle broke off where the narrow part meets the thicker grip portion several years ago so I Gorilla taped a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe on to get through what I was doing at the moment. Never got around to getting a warranty replacement and was using it again tonight. The end that gets all of the punishment is developing a lot of cracks so I quit using it and sent a note to RCBS. I'm afraid it will shatter explosively if I continue to use it. I can't complain, though. I bought it either in 1991 or 2006; not sure which.

The RCBS seems to be a different design to me. The other all plastic designs have an angular web compared to the smooth curves of the RCBS. The pullers with an aluminum shank may be PK but putting metal into the plastic looks like a place to concentrate stresses to me. The all plastic design of the RCBS with its curved web looks like it would be better at distributing stresses. I have a scrap of engineered beam that's 4" thick and about 16" square. It sits on an edge and I whack the kinetic puller on the top edge. It's quieter and works much better than clamping a sacrificial piece of lumber to a bench top. Using a bench/table top takes may times as many hits to dislodge a boolit. For jacketed, I use an RCBS collet puller whenever I can.

[414gates]

The Lee Loadmaster is an excellent press, but like all Lee progressives, does not have a reliable priming system.

It's worth keeping it, and using a workaround for the priming.

You can deprime all your brass on the press, that will go quickly.

Then prime seperately. The Lee bench prime looks like a reliable little machine. I don't have one myself, but the reviews seem positive.

Once you reload with primed brass, the Loadmaster can run like a clock.

Duane from 480BC put together excellent video instructions for setting up and tuning the Loadmaster. He advocates using the priming system - I just differ on that.


https://youtu.be/jluvhIG5xUM


https://youtu.be/Op5z67Dxoj0

I always said that if the Loadmaster had come out with a reliable priming system, Lee would have owned the progressive reloader market, and I would have had a dedicated Loadmaster setup for every caliber I reload for.

[jetinteriorguy]

For one, l removed the index bar and hand index; it's smoother.

Two Be sure to lift the priming rocker arm so it and the punch aren't stuck down.
I quickly and manually slide the black primer slider into place before raising to prime. this prevents most of them from tipping over as they get into place. I think either my punch is short or the carrier frame is slightly deformed. The legs that support the rocker are fragile and can wear. It's a weak point. I use this press for match ammo because it's smooth and my special dies won't fit the Star loader
Hmm, hand indexing sounds interesting. Kind of makes it similar to operate like a Dillon 550. The auto advance feature has always been the biggest problem for me to keep working consistently. There’s a gizmo on Etsy for around $20.00 that looks like it might fix the auto advance feature I’m tempted to try. The thing about the Loadmaster that’s so frustrating is that when it’s working good it’s a marvelous machine that makes excellent ammo. But when it stops working I just want to take a sledge hammer and smash it to pieces, and this happens way too much.

[rosewood]

My RCBS Pow'r Pull finally gave up the ghost tonight. The handle broke off where the narrow part meets the thicker grip portion several years ago so I Gorilla taped a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe on to get through what I was doing at the moment. Never got around to getting a warranty replacement and was using it again tonight. The end that gets all of the punishment is developing a lot of cracks so I quit using it and sent a note to RCBS. I'm afraid it will shatter explosively if I continue to use it. I can't complain, though. I bought it either in 1991 or 2006; not sure which.

The RCBS seems to be a different design to me. The other all plastic designs have an angular web compared to the smooth curves of the RCBS. The pullers with an aluminum shank may be PK but putting metal into the plastic looks like a place to concentrate stresses to me. The all plastic design of the RCBS with its curved web looks like it would be better at distributing stresses. I have a scrap of engineered beam that's 4" thick and about 16" square. It sits on an edge and I whack the kinetic puller on the top edge. It's quieter and works much better than clamping a sacrificial piece of lumber to a bench top. Using a bench/table top takes may times as many hits to dislodge a boolit. For jacketed, I use an RCBS collet puller whenever I can.

Send it to RCBS, they will send you a brand new one. The head and handle on mine recently went 2 different directions. They replaced it for free. They did require me to send in the old one so you had to pay shipping for that.

Rosewood

[rosewood]

I started with a Dillon 550B and still use it mostly. Bought the Loadmaster a few years back to dedicate to 40 and 9mm. I too get very frustrated with the priming system. Other than that, it works great. Never had any other issues with powder drop or the like on it. The Loadmaster is the only press I have ever had a primer pop on me. Had it happen once and every time I use it now, my butt cheeks tighten up.

One problem I see with it is, you are sizing the brass and seating the primer at the same time. Therefore if it is harder for some reason, you don't know if it is the primer or the brass. This makes it hard to tell whether something is wrong or not. On the Dillon, if you feel something amiss with the primer step, you know it is the primer because that is all you are doing at that time.

I did find lubing brass, especially 9mm, seems to help the feel of the press.

Rosewood

[farmerjim]

If you are going to pull many bullets, I recommend the hornady cam lock bullet puller. It is quite fast. I had about 100 308's that would not chamber. I started with the inertia puller, and after about 5 I stopped and bought the hornady cam lock puller. I ran all through a small base die and reloaded them. They worked fine.

[WRideout]

Those plastic hammer looking impact pullers I think are all pretty much the same.
At least they look like they're all made by the same company.,
but are just a different color for whoever sells them. I have green RCBS one.

You might could say, "It's fun, and it's real, but it ain't real fun to use".

The little Alum. holder things go straight into the Alum. recycle bucket.
Instead, I use the shell holder from a single stage press.
A trick with them is to hit them on something real solid like the end of a vise, or a concrete floor.
Banging them on a wooden table doesn't work nearly as well.

I keep a short block of 2X4 in the reloading room. When I use the hammer puller, I hit it on the end grain of the block. Doesn't hurt the puller, and I can stand it on the bench to use.

Wayne

[David2011]

Send it to RCBS, they will send you a brand new one. The head and handle on mine recently went 2 different directions. They replaced it for free. They did require me to send in the old one so you had to pay shipping for that.

Rosewood

Yes, I got an email back today that said just that. They're replacing a cracked Little Dandy powder reservoir without requiring that I send it in. It's still less costly than buying another one so it goes into the mail today. Their warranty is almost as good as Dillon's. The only thing I've had to send back to Dillon was a dial caliper that developed a hitch in its travel.

[Stopsign32v]

If you are going to pull many bullets, I recommend the hornady cam lock bullet puller. It is quite fast. I had about 100 308's that would not chamber. I started with the inertia puller, and after about 5 I stopped and bought the hornady cam lock puller. I ran all through a small base die and reloaded them. They worked fine.

I'm going to go grab one today at Cabelas.

[jmorris]

Having or have had progressives from Dillon, Hornady, RCBS and the Loadmaster, I can see why people have difficulty. Once I did finally had the one, I received from a discussed owner as a box of parts, running great, I also understand why people are happy with them too.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9pjmuHAkBU&t=140s

They are different than the others for sure but can be made to work.

If your priming system isn’t new and in perfect shape, get a new one fro titan.

If you are loading something with a sloppy fit in the shell holder, like 9mm, you need another die to center the case over the primer or your never going to be happy.

Take it one step at a time to get it running right, being new to the press and doing everything at once, along with resulting problems, can get overwhelming and frustrating pretty quick. That’s a great time to go have a beer and think happy thoughts for a little while…

[GWS]

I was hoping jmorris would come along and post his video of his inspirational Loadmaster setup.......if that don't help you see the potential nothing will. :) Obviously there's a way to make it sing!

[Jtarm]

I’m a red and blue guy, but the red is a Hornady LNL AP and the blue a Dillon SDB.

I’m not a real experienced progressive user and have jacked up my share components since starting 10 years ago (I’ve gotten fast at bullet-pulling), but, IMO, auto primer feeds are the hardest component to get right.

Of the two presses, the Dillon feed is a little better. I couldn’t figure out why I got so many high primers, though, till someone pointed out the SDB doesn’t have the leverage of a full-size press.

The Hornady works well, too, but has issues with Winchester SPPs.

The Dillon tubes are much easier to fill. That concave opening to the tube makes it simple. The Hornady requires some jiggling because you’re trying to get two square-faced tubes of the same size to align for the primers to drop.

I pondered and researched progressive presses for years before buying one. I really wanted to go with a Lee for the cost, but I’d just read too many posts about how much tinkering they required and decided better to spend the extra money on one that required (almost) no tinkering to work.

[8mmFan]

Try watching GunBlue's videos on the press.

The timing and alignment are easy to adjust.

The press cannot be slammed as hard and as fast as you can go. Figure 400 per hour. A primer cup on a turret or Single stage press has to be learned to properly seat primers.

Most problems are a misunderstanding of the directions.

^This. Go to Commie(You)Tube and search up "GunBlue490 Loadmaster." He has put two videos there: Pt. 1 and Pt. 2. Start from Square One, and set up your press EXACTLY as he does. Your press WILL work.

Yes: the priming system on the Loadmaster is at best "buggy." And I have felt exactly as you are feeling, at times. It can be really frustrating. That said, I've loaded thousands of rounds on it. Only you can decide whether to Craigslist it or not, and then get a different press. But you CAN DEFINITELY load a ton of 9mm on a LoadMaster. And don't be afraid to call Lee Precision and ask help from the Technicians. They are good, and helpful.

8mmFan

[nagantino]

I sold my Loadmaster and I’m sorry I did it. It’s the priming of course…..what a crock, but as many here are saying, you must load off the press. I only discovered this after the sale. But, I applied this to the Lee Pro 1000 and now reloading is straight forward…load off the press. And just to finish, I also discovered that if I deprime and resize, then prime without the powder die and the seating die, the priming on a Lee Pro 1000 is easy. It tells me that it’s the spilt powder granules that cause the problem. Of course, all this negates Lees claim to be a truly progressive press. That’s okay because you still end up with a ton of finished rounds.