686 or GP100

[hylander]

Ready to pull the trigger on one.
Both .357, 6" Stainless Steel.
Last week I shot both side by side and can't decide which to choose?
Will be shooting mostly Medium to Medium heavy loads with 158gr.
for cast silhouette Matches at 50yd steel targets size of a chicken.
However I will probably shoot some Mag loads from time to time.
Aside from the Smith has a better trigger,
Pro's/Con's of each?
Help me decide.

Thanks

[dannyd]

GP100 6 inch Red dot
302961

[stubshaft]

Better trigger trumps everything else!

[hylander]

Better trigger trumps everything else!

But with a short time of polishing and changing springs the
triggers will be about the same.

[NSB]

The 686 is definitely the better gun. Not that the Ruger is a bad gun, it’s not. It’s just a world of difference in manufacturing tolerances and machinery used to make the SW. I could live with the Ruger and find it quite adequate, but I’d find the 686 a bit better. I’ve owned a lot of each brand.

[Kosh75287]

I suspect the GP100 is the stronger/more durable of the two, so if you plan to run mostly maximum loads through it, I'D opt for the Ruger. Its trigger may not be quite as amenable to tuning as that of the S&W, but I think it would require a championship-grade revolver shooter to discern the difference.

[Bigslug]

But with a short time of polishing and changing springs the
triggers will be about the same.

Don't even need to do that, just lube it and shoot it a lot on DA, and that will take care of itself. Probably won't even be ashamed it's not a Python - they polish up very nice after you run them a little.

Solid frame with no sideplate on the Ruger. No Hillary Hole. Spur grip frame with more choice of how big or small your grip can be. Established customer service. No concerns over where S&W's move out of Mass. is going to leave us.

[Kenstone]

I started shooting Silhouettes with a GP100 6" full lug.
I found it to have barrel thread choke so I lapped that out and shot/grouped much better, and swapped out some springs with Wolff for a better trigger.
I often read that a full lug gun was front heavy but never noticed that.
And my GP has interchangeable fronts sites, so I bought sites for the super red hawk, both plastic and steel, and filed them into Patridge Sites.
Oh, and installed Pachmayers, lapped the forcing cone too.
just me though,
Have you decided on a barrel length and barrel lug configuration?
Try them all if you can.
I just remembered, I numbered the cylinder holes and shot groups for each chamber and found the worst of the six, then didn't use it in Silhouette matches.
um, I might have lapped the crown too, it's been a while.
[smilie=b:
Edit: If you find one chamber that shoots way better than the rest, you can shoot all the targets in the bank of 5 with the same chamber.
IE: load/shoot that chamber, eject that case and reload that same chamber, kinda like a single shot gun.

[megasupermagnum]

You shot both and thought the 686 had the better trigger? Or do you just prefer the wide blade trigger of S&W's? I personally find the GP100 generally has a better trigger.

[Dieselhorses]

Love my 686-7! More accuracy I've had in a while in a pistol!

302963

[imashooter2]

The Ruger is a great lump of cast steel with lines that make the Baby Jesus cry. The Smith is a sleek forged steel beauty. Other than that, they’re both good revolvers.

[hawkenhunter50]

You have 2 hands dont ya? Buy one of each!!

[414gates]

My Rugers all developed trigger drag against the frame, and needed to be shimmed. The trigger drag caused light strikes.

None of my S&W developed trigger drag, but I did end also end up with light strikes from weak leaf springs.

I never favored one trigger over the other.

If you have the means, buy them both.

[jrayborn]

First World problems... :)

For me I would pick the Ruger but the Smith is a good handgun as well. Tough problem to have...

[Thumbcocker]

If the Smith is pre EDM rifling I would get it. If not I would get the Ruger and be prepared to do some polishing and spring replacement.

[Finster101]

I am firmly in the 686 camp.

[shooting on a shoestring]

Hylander, so you shot both side by side and didn’t come away with a clear winner. Not surprising bc there isn’t one. They both do the same thing for the same money. Brand vs brand. But you asked for pros and cons. Here’s my list.

686
Pros
Forged frame, less bulk for same strength, looks better.
Rear sight assembly, less side play.
SA trigger/sear angled design, usually better out of the box, less creep.
Cylinder release latch pushes forward.

Cons
Hillary hole. Safety rarely auto-engages but that’s a real risk. The safety flag can be filed to keep it from locking the hammer or it can be removed all together. Some fear of lawyer’s arguments over altered gun safeties.
6 shot model has cylinder bolt notches cut directly over chambers, 7 shot notches are between chambers.
Front sight is pinned on and there are no aftermarket night sight options.
Side plate construction dates from 1890’s. But whoever heard of a Smith that had a side plate frame fail?
Ejector rod can back out and keep cylinder from swinging out (the left hand thread design minimizes this but does not definitively eliminate it).
Some have EDM rifling.

GP100
Pros
No Hillary hole.
6 shot model has cylinder stop notches cut between chambers, 7 shot model has over chambers.
Basic design from 1970s with modular trigger group.
Crane that locks front of cylinder into frame.
Peg grip frame that allows trigger reach/grip size to be altered to a greater degree.
Front sight interchangeable by quick release spring/plunger.
Aftermarket night sights available.

Cons
Cast frame is bulkier and heavier (hence it LOOKS like it’s stronger).
Rear sight assemblies have side play (Can be shimmed).
SA trigger/sear same design as Colt SAA or Blackhawk, can never attain creep-free release but can tuned to be VERY close.
Cylinder release pushes into frame, more awkward than Smith.
Ruger cut rifling often has chatter marks in barrel (often looks worse than it degrades shooting).

Things that are a wash on both.
Modern production guns have:
Large barrel to cylinder gaps bc it’s easier to cut them large once and assemble that to cut/try/cut/try until small gap is achieved.
Chambers cut with dull reamers for under spec, out of round chambers (usually they go small so this can be fixed by reaming with a new finish reamer).
Chamber throats undersized for same reason, same fix.
MIM parts (never saw any fail in either platform, 1911’s yes, revolvers no).
Both have rifling twist 18.75”.
Both have been competing in the market for decades without a clear hands down winner.

If you’re really just interested in shooting 50 yard chickens, I’d suggest you consider a Blackhawk for its faster 16” twist.

[Bloodhound689]

I have both the GP-100 and a 586 (I know, not 686) both in 4". I am a die hard Ruger fan but I have to admit that I like everything about the 586 better and I can shoot it better. Don't get me wrong I love the GP-100 but the 586 wins for me. It took me a long time to admit that to myself

Which did you shoot better without modifications?

Edit: I use the GP-100 for hotter loads and the Smith for precision

Edit(2): I know you said 6" but take a look at the Match Champion. I have one in 10mm and it is my favorite wheel gun out of them all

[Wheelguns 1961]

If the Smith is pre EDM rifling I would get it. If not I would get the Ruger and be prepared to do some polishing and spring replacement.

I strongly agree with this. I haven’t had much luck with the EDM rifling and cast bullets.

[contender1]

Seems to me I saw this same exact question on another Forum.

[rintinglen]

If the Smith is pre EDM rifling I would get it. If not I would get the Ruger and be prepared to do some polishing and spring replacement.

My sentiments precisely. S&W Barrels post-EDM are not as good as those they replaced, IME, and Rugers are actually better these days.
But an 80's 686 that had not been rode hard and put away wet would get my money before either brands new.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The decision is easy.
Get both ;)

[fivegunner]

Like others have said, Buy them both. you won`t go wrong.:D

[derek45]

https://i.imgur.com/mXaukyw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3O1yF38.jpg

[Lefty Red]

I have a 7 shot GP100 4” and love it. But I would choose a 686+ every time over the GP100. I just can never find in the wild. Only reason I got the GP100 was it was the first 357 4” I have seen in three years at the LGS.

Lefty

[M-Tecs]

I have both and I much prefer the 686's. That being said most of my S&W's are pre-1993. I do own several of ECM barreled Smiths and I have no issues with them for cast. With the factory stock Ruger or S&W triggers its luck of the draw. Once you start tuning the triggers S&W hands down.

S&W barrels since 1993 use a process called ECM (Electro Chemical Machining).

http://firearmshistory.blogspot.com/2010/05/rifling-manufacturing-electro-chemical.html

https://www.firearmsid.com/Feature%20Articles/ecr/electrochemicalrifling.htm

ECM and EDM are not the same.

https://www.voxelinnovations.com/post/ecm-vs-edm

Some more discussion on the ECM barrels and cast.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?443934-Keylock-era-Smith-amp-Wesson-revolvers

[dverna]

We went through this a couple of years ago. The 686+ won easily. By we I mean my fiancé and I. We got the 5" barrels...matching pair. Tazman contributed to our choice with his experience.

The Ruger seems "clunky" in comparison, but everyone has different hands. If you shot them both and you could not pick the winner, it won't matter much.

[tward]

I’ve had a SS 4” GP-100 for 25 years. Trigger seems to solved by spring change and pulling the trigger 5000 to 10000 times! Sights and grips are super easy to change. Customer service at Ruger is second to none. I never found a load that wasn’t comfortable. If you can I’m in the buy both camp, you can usually sell later at a profit. Tim

[hoodat]

Mine is 686-6. Never had the lock cause a problem and it's been fired about a bazillion times. SA trigger simply couldn't be any better. DA trigger is so good that I taught myself to shoot DA, and quit looking back. Hardly ever squeeze a single action shot. My favorite plinking is 12" or 16" gong at 100 yards. Your 50 yard chickens wouldn't be a problem.

My pet plinking load is 125 gr Berry's plated flat points, with a 7 gr. charge of Bullseye. Trajectory works from 0 to a hundred yards without any thought.

This is my second 686, first one was when they first came out. I like this one best. jd


302972

[Tokarev]

686 or GP100?
8-round Redhawk yeah!

[Jtarm]

If forced to pick from current production, I’d go Ruger.

[Tazman1602]

I’m a Ruger nut but a couple of years ago my wife made me (due to another brand, NOT Ruger) take back a 357 that immediately failed and could have become dangerous and told me please buy something that wouldn’t hurt me even if it cost more…

I got a 6” barrel 686 that is a joy to shoot. Only thing that made me hesitate was it was my understanding that there was nothing you could do to correct an MIM trigger that was crappy. I simply tried all they had in stock and the one I bought wants for nothing….

Art

[oldhenry]

I have an '80s era 686+ 4" that is an excellent revolver. I had a 6" from that same era that was also an excellent revolver. Unfortunately, I traded that 6" @ a gun show in the '90s thinking I could always buy another: bad mistake. Both had decent triggers out of the box, but I improved them with several sessions of judicious polishing mainly to improve the DA. I did replace the trigger return spring with an aftermarket item, but always maintained full power on the OEM main spring.

I now have 2 GP100s in .44 spec. & really like them. I installed hammer shims, hammer dog shims, aftermarket trigger return spring & main spring. I lightly polished all contact points. Now those 2 GP100s have excellent triggers SA & DA.

I personally would not buy a 686 of current manufacture. A friend bought a 629 of current manufacture & I spent many hours trying to smooth that action & it's now fair (not outstanding).

I'm fortunate in that I have my own range & have 2 full sets (10) of the IHMSA chickens & 5 IHMSA pigs. When I go out to shoot these, I carry one of my 4 Ruger SAs.

[Cargo]

I liked the balance and feel of the 686 but went with GP100 for the solid frame, one piece barrel and no lock.

[Dieselhorses]

My Rugers all developed trigger drag against the frame, and needed to be shimmed. The trigger drag caused light strikes.

None of my S&W developed trigger drag, but I did end also end up with light strikes from weak leaf springs.

I never favored one trigger over the other.

If you have the means, buy them both.

I had that issue and found the strain screw backed out a bit.

[Wag]

I'm a die-hard Ruger fan but in this case, I have to give a slight edge to the 686. Something a little more "crispy" about it.

But if you can, get one of each. You won't regret it!

--Wag--

[Buck Shot]

I like the GP100 better overall -- particularly its lines and beefiness -- but I have to admit my friend's 686 has a much nicer SA trigger.

I tried the Wolff reduced-power springs, but found I got light strikes with CCI primers. Also shimmed the hammer and some other parts, and dry fired it a few thousand times, and it's getting better, but I think my friend's 686 still has the nicer trigger.

I may send it out to have a pistolsmith work on the trigger, but so far I'm having trouble parting with it for a month or 6 weeks!

[tazman]

Over the years, I have owned and shot many Ruger GP100 and S&W 686 revolvers. The ones I kept were the S&W.
I have never been able to make the Rugers shoot anywhere nearly as well as the S&W revolvers.
I have a 686+ seven shot revolver with the EDM rifling and Hillary hole. There are no issues with accuracy, leading or anything else with the revolver.
I can't tell any difference in accuracy or feel between the old models and the new ones.
I love the way the GP100 feels in my hand but I cannot make them shoot. After the fifth try I gave up on them.
I can't make the single action Rugers shoot either.
The only Ruger revolver I ave been able to shoot reasonably well is the Security Six. Of the four or five of them that I have used, only two worked well for me.
If they were readily available, I would get a Model 27 S&W.

[Andy45]

Early 4" 686 Plus!

[silhouette_shooter]

I just picked up a Match Champion, it has the normal super stiff, lawyer proof trigger which I fixed thanks to Wolff gun springs and a little polishing. It has something on the end of the barrel that belongs on the end of a fishing hook, I have an actual target sight which is on the way from Dawson. One very nice thing that I have discovered so far though, is the cylinder throats, they're all very uniform and somewhere between .357 and .358, (.357 jacketed bullets drop through but .358's don't), so it should be an excellent cast bullet gun. Almost bought a S&W 9mm revolver but figured that was too much of a gamble since S&W has abandoned quality control in favor of quantity of guns going out the door. Plus Ruger customer service is light years ahead of S&W.

[BigboreShooter]

Later S&W revolvers are pre-drilled and tapped for red dot or scope.Just another thing to consider.
BigboreShooter

[megasupermagnum]

Later S&W revolvers are pre-drilled and tapped for red dot or scope.Just another thing to consider.
BigboreShooter

Unless you go way back to the days of pinned barrels, weren't they always drilled and tapped? Or do they use a different hole spacing now specifically for sights?

[Jtarm]

Later S&W revolvers are pre-drilled and tapped for red dot or scope.Just another thing to consider.
BigboreShooter

Not to run down the GP100, but no-drill mounts don’t work well with just the one mounting hole.

[megasupermagnum]

Not to run down the GP100, but no-drill mounts don’t work well with just the one mounting hole.

So don't use them. Buy the no-drill mounts that mount full length. I disagree with you that the short models don't work well. The one from Weigand is phenomenal for light stuff like a red dot.

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Seems like a Smith has a faster lock time. Can anyone confirm?

[megasupermagnum]

Seems like a Smith has a faster lock time. Can anyone confirm?

How could they? That would depend entirely on what spring each gun had, plus any mods done such as a bobbed/skeletonized hammer, and so on. Out of the box, both guns are over sprung, and have very fast lock times.

[375supermag]

Hi...
I own and regularly shoot a 686 Silhouette Model and it is the single most accurate handgun that I own out of 50+ handguns.
I have shot a friends GP100 extensively and while it is a good accurate revolver it is not the equal of the 686 aesthetically nor accuracy wise.
I own quite a few Ruger SA revolvers but have never felt the need to acquire a GP100 in .357Magnum.
My 686, Model27 and Colt Troopers have my DA .357Magnum revolver needs covered quite well.