Home made case lubes......

[3006guns]

There's been a home made spray case lube formula around for some time now, being a 1 to 4 lanoline/alcohol mix. Like any reloading "tightwad" I'd like to try it and avoid putting out money for a commercial spray, but I have one concern:

After the alcohol evaporates, leaving the lanolin for resizing...how do you remove it, or is it even necessary? If I recall, the Hornady spray lube makes no mention of having to remove it's product after the resizing process, but the LAST thing I want is any sort of lubricant on loaded ammunition. A greasy case...no matter how slight...increases bolt thrust, something I don't want. Anyone care to share their experience? Thanks!

[Maven]

Here are 2 options, but they're not home brews:
1) Wire pulling lube (quart container): Water soluble & available @ your favorite "big box" hardware store + reasonably priced. Works well for FL and partial FL resizing if chamber pressure is not excessive. Not good for major case [re-]forming.

2) STP (quart container): Widely available & inexpensive. Very tenacious, which is both good (stays where it belongs) and bad (need to wipe it off, possibly with a solvent). Will last forever.

These two are so inexpensive, long-lasting and easily obtained that I'd forego making my own case lube. However, I understand the challenge of it (coming from one who reforms '06 and .270Win. brass to 6.5 x 55mm).

[3006guns]

Thanks Maven......the attraction of an easy to apply spray was the only reason I looked at this in the first place. However, since we regularly use wire pulling lube at my job AND it comes in one gallon buckets..................

I have a brand new RCBS lube pad in the cabinet........think I'll see if the wire lube will rub into it.

[JW6108]

I have used Imperial Case Sizing Wax for several years. I don't do a lot of advanced case forming, but have used it to make .308 Win from .30-06 and .270, 7.7 Japanese from .270, .280 and .30-06 and 8mm Mauser from .30-06. You need only a ridiculously small amount on the thumb and forefinger, and the case neck brush needs very little freshening up as well.

For cost, small amount needed and easy clean up (I use rubbing alcohol) I know of nothing that approaches it.

[3006guns]

Regarding Imperial wax.....I have the original hand out sample given to me at a gun show years ago when it was still a new product. It's been in my reloading drawer for a lot of years and I'm just now getting to the point of having to order another container. Talk about your money's worth! When I have a really tough resize out comes the Imperial, but for most jobs standard lubes work nicely.

The idea of a spray is appealing just from the standpoint of speed and economy, since I have very few carbide dies. In fact, the cable pulling compound I'm thinking of is water soluable, so it might be possible to mix with water in a spray bottle. The question is whether it would be degraded by thinning or not. I've used the Hornady spray but had an ordinary 30-06 chatter a bit during resizing, plus the stuff is $8.95 a can here.....ouch.

My original question was whether to wash the lanolin off before the rest of the loading steps, which seems reasonable.......but man, have you ever tried to wash that stuff off? It repels water and not being petrolem based, ordinary solvents don't work either. Alcohol might.......hadn't thought of that.

I guess the correct way would be to mix a batch of both and see which one performs the best AND see how easily it can be cleaned off.

[cheese1566]

Do you use regular lanolin (anhydrous lanolin) that you find at a pharmacy for baby products and ointments? The yellow lanolin that has the consistency of vasoline? I once heard that it had to be the oil type liquid lanolin.

My girlfriend buys the anhydrous lanolin (not the oil) in bulk and packages it in small quantities for cloth diaper supplies and other stuff.

If it is the same, I may try it out myself...

[felix]

Mix the lanolin with another oil on the stove as in making boolit lube for about 50-50 in volume. That should allowing sizing about anything, and if not, increase the percentage of lanolin. When mixed, normal solvents can do a good clean job. If not in a hurry to clean cases, size them and then degrease them in paint thinner. Use smell to determine that all solvent is gone before priming and loading. The advantage of this method is that some very hard "wax" is still on the cases for protection if the solvent is not brand new. ... felix

[sundog]

I like Hornady One Shot, but as mentioned, it's expensive. But I like it and have no issues with it. Just wipe the outside of the case after sizing and move on.

I've used wire pull, inexpensive, and it works.

Maybe BeeMan will weigh in here. A while back he recommended IsoHeet and anhydrous lanolin. I do not remember the quantities. What you will wind up with is something like Midway spray lube in the pump sprayer. It works well also. I often use the Midway lube on a patch if I'm just doing a few cases for testing, and it works superbly. Or if neck sizing with other than a collet NS die, a wet qtip inside each case mouth reduces drag and stretching.

If we can get BeeMan to post the recipe here, I'll make some and try it, as I specifically bought an IsoHeet for this and never used it. The anhydrous lanolin is always on hand for making FWFL.

[454PB]

And once again I have to mention boot waterproofing.....

The stuff I'm using is called "Smiling Mink", and I assume it's mink oil. It's probably a form of lanolin, and works as well as Imperial Sizing lube at about 1/5 the cost. I've used it to form cases, and for swaging bullets, it smells good, wipes off easily with a paper towel, and actually cleans the brass. I apply it with my fingers, but you could put it on a lube pad if desired.

[Calamity Jake]

The formula I use: 1 cup 99% isopropyl Alcohol obtained from a hospitol supply or your drugest can order it.
1 1/2 TBS any grade Anhydrous lanolin.
Melt the lanolin and heat the alcohol in a microwave or on electric stove(NO OPEN FLAMES)
mix the two, va la, Dillon case lube on the cheep!!

To remove the lanolin I have a dedicated bowl for my frankford arnsonal case cleaner. I use the worn out walnut hulls from other case cleaning with a little mineral spirits mixed in, run the lubed cases about 20 min. the lube is gone.

On a side note, if you use the industrial grade Anhydrous Lanolin, it is not refined as will as the medical grade (but costs a lot less) when mixed with the alcohol there is a white powdery looking substance that will settle out, it is harmless, so I just leave it in the mix.

I've been using this case lube for 6-7 years now, I like it real well.

[Echo]

I have Alemite CD-2 (same as STP) in a squeeze bottle. Squeeze a little blob in the rock-polisher can, put the rifle brass in, tumble for 30 minutes, and ready to go. After sizing, into the tumbler to remove the lube. Bought the can of CD-2 about 30+ years ago, and still have about a half bottle left, since it doesn't take much...

[3006guns]

Some darn good ideas here!

About the lanolin.....the recipe I saw specifically said PURE lanolin, not anhydrous. The pure material is evidently like oil with no waxes in it so you don't have to worry about undisolved solids.

Alemite CD-2?? I had no idea it was still around. 'Course I haven't bought any since about 1966............:roll:

Think I'll try the cable compound idea first....mostly because I can grab some this afternoon.:mrgreen:

[Hardcast416taylor]

Reminds me of a feller that was starting loading. He called me one day to ask advice. He asked how long the stickiness would last after loading the `06 brass? The stickiness was RCBS lube pad lube that he rolled the brass over almost 2 mo. before. If that wasn`t bad enough he then tried tumbling them in corncob. I traded him brass for his wooly looking cases. A little advice from a seasoned loader can save time and "face" when starting loading. [smilie=1: Robert

[JW6108]

Reminds me of a feller that was starting loading. He called me one day to ask advice. He asked how long the stickiness would last after loading the `06 brass? The stickiness was RCBS lube pad lube that he rolled the brass over almost 2 mo. before. If that wasn`t bad enough he then tried tumbling them in corncob. I traded him brass for his wooly looking cases. A little advice from a seasoned loader can save time and "face" when starting loading. [smilie=1: Robert

Wooly looking cases; you gotta love that.

[KCSO]

Geeze, the last time I bought case lube was??? well the tub is marked $1.27. As long as lube lasts I never tried to find a substitute. I bet it doesn't cost 1 /20 of a cent to lube a case.

[Willbird]

The formula I use: 1 cup 99% isopropyl Alcohol obtained from a hospitol supply or your drugest can order it.
1 1/2 TBS any grade Anhydrous lanolin.
Melt the lanolin and heat the alcohol in a microwave or on electric stove(NO OPEN FLAMES)
mix the two, va la, Dillon case lube on the cheep!!



I'm not sure there is not a relay or something like that inside a microwave that could flash a spark and blow you to kingdom come if you are heating volatiles like alcohol in there. I was heating some dry gas many years ago and got an alarming "thump" out of the microwave and it knocked over my plastic container I was heating it in.

The Hornady case slick costs quite a bit for a spray can, but how many thousand cases can you do if you just spray the cases lightly and shake in a paper bag ??

I agree on the Imperial wax, I have always wondered if it was just anhydrous lanolin.

Bill

[DanM]

I finally ordered some anhydrous lanolin from local cvs drugstore. Large container was $14. Probably a lifetime supply. Tried to disolve some in pure denatured alcohol for a spray lube, but after 2 days it was still a lump in the jar. Did not think to try heat. If you have to heat it to dissolve, won't it seperate out when cooled? Works great with finger application, but you do have to clean it off....

[compass will]

I use Imperial sizing wax. I just looked it up at midway, $6.49. At the rate I am going I bet this is 10 years supply. Use a real small amount. I mean just a coating on your fingers to put a small film on the case. When I first started I put on too much and put a wrinkle in a 45-70 case, but I learned, Just enough to put a haze on the case. Then it wipes off with a wrag.
For $6.50 it's not worth the time to make your own.

But I bet it's the same as sno-seal. I think I read here of people using that.

[cajun shooter]

Alemite CD-2, Man I just took a trip back in time. Everyone had long hair and was saying stuff like use this it will help your ET's

[Calamity Jake]

"About the lanolin.....the recipe I saw specifically said PURE lanolin, not anhydrous. The pure material is evidently like oil with no waxes in it so you don't have to worry about undisolved solids."

Anhydrous means "Water Free"

Pure lanolin is not an oil, it is a solid with the viscosity of wheel bearing grease.

There is a company mixing something with the lanolin to make it liquid and selling it as pure.



"Tried to disolve some in pure denatured alcohol for a spray lube, but after 2 days it was still a lump in the jar. Did not think to try heat. If you have to heat it to dissolve, won't it seperate out when cooled?"


Yes you need to melt the lanolin and use 99% isopropyl Alcohol not denatured.

I have not had a problem with the lanolin seperating from the alcohol.

"but you do have to clean it off...."

It is advisable to clean it off to stop bolt thrust, unless you are fire forming cases then it might be a good idea to leave it on.

[DanOH]

I finally ordered some anhydrous lanolin from local cvs drugstore. Large container was $14. Probably a lifetime supply. Tried to disolve some in pure denatured alcohol for a spray lube, but after 2 days it was still a lump in the jar. Did not think to try heat. If you have to heat it to dissolve, won't it seperate out when cooled? Works great with finger application, but you do have to clean it off....

Dan
I use a mixture of 91% ispropl alcohol (8 oz)and liquid lanolin (bout 1 tbsp) with good results. I boiled a cup of water in the microwave and set the container (an empty hairspray pump bottle) down in the cup to warm it up. Then shook like crazy. I had read you should use 99% alcohol but couldn't find any so I put a couple of drops of dish detergent in to help it mix.
I have been using the same mix for about 2 years and it still works great. The alcohol dries guickly and the cases just slip in and out of the sizer like they should. Afterward I run them in the tumbler w/a capful of oderless paint thinner.
I can't see if the lanolin separates because the bottle isn't clear, but regardless, I just shake it up really good every time and go to town.

[BeeMan]

Sundog,

Just saw the thread - I don't think the proportions are critical. Calamity Jake described close to what I have, including the stuff settling out when it sits for a few days in someplace cool.

I store in a recycled eyeglass cleaner spray bottle. Heat about 15 seconds in the microwave and shake briefly if settled and its good for several more days.

What works for me is drop the brass in a quart freezer bag, spray a few times, seal, and shake. Dump cases in a bin and let the alcohol evaporate.

I've tried hot soapy water or paint thinner to remove the film but settled on tumbling in media as the least trouble.

The best option when available is the Lee collet neck die - no lube step, no mess to clean afterward, and no recurring cost. I like it enough I modified a 30-06 collet die to handle 30-40.

BeeMan

[boommer]

Imperial sizing wax, one shot,works for me I've have Way way way too much to do and better served projects in the shooting sports and I've been layed off for 3 months. But to each is own!

[cajun shooter]

Lanolin comes from the wool of sheep and can be found in many on line stores. It has a very unique smell and is a light yellow in color. It has the consistency of vaseline. A company by the name of NOW sells it. I'm sure there are others.

[Limey]

Out of interest one day I tried using the paste type furniture wax.....comes in a small, flattish round tin and it opens using one of those butterfly style twisting levers also found on old style shoe polish tins.......you'll find this type of wax at any supermarket or general store at very cheap prices.

A smidge on your finger is all you need....just smear the case by rolling the case between your finger and thumb....your body heat and the act of smearing it actually thins it and it goes on really easy........I've had no case sticking or wrinkling problems.......when you have your rounds loaded a simple wipe over with a paper towel or piece of rag takes off any remaining lube and polishes up the brass really nice as a bonus.

It lasts seemingly for ever......I cannot remember when I started this tin and it's a long way from finished.

The actual brand I am using is Johnson Wax.....say's it's got bees wax in it.......lavender fragrance....... so it smells nice too!

Hope some of you find this useful.....check out your wife's cleaning cupboard......there may be a tin you can try with out having to go out and spend .....oooooh?......maybe as much as a dollar!

.....but.....if you can ''borrow'' lube from work that works OK then why bother with anything else?

Safe shooting,

Limey

[pdawg_shooter]

I ran out of one-shot on a weekend, 25 miles to town, and it was snowing. DANG I hate it when that happens. Setting on my shelf was a tub of mink oil leather dressing. Touch your finger to the paste, rub it on the brass, and size away. That was about 15 years ago, I am still on that first tub and havent bought anything else since. Clean it off in the tumbler wit a dab of mineral spirits on the walnut hulls.

[Horace]

I use 99 % isopropel alcohol and liquid lanolin at 8 to 1. Works great.

Horace

[DanM]

Maybe yall can clear something up for me. I thought anhydrous lanolin was the 'pure' stuff. Mine is yellow-brown and thicker than axle grease, but not as thick as say, paste wax. Whatever it turns out to be, it works well.

[Willbird]

Maybe yall can clear something up for me. I thought anhydrous lanolin was the 'pure' stuff. Mine is yellow-brown and thicker than axle grease, but not as thick as say, paste wax. Whatever it turns out to be, it works well.

Anhydrous means it does not have water in it, you can buy hydrous lanolin at the drugstore I have been told a lot easier than anhydrous lanolin, and if your mixing it with alcohol that typically contains at least a little bit of water if not more it ought to work fine.

Bill

[hedgehorn]

And once again I have to mention boot waterproofing.....

The stuff I'm using is called "Smiling Mink", and I assume it's mink oil. It's probably a form of lanolin, and works as well as Imperial Sizing lube at about 1/5 the cost. I've used it to form cases, and for swaging bullets, it smells good, wipes off easily with a paper towel, and actually cleans the brass. I apply it with my fingers, but you could put it on a lube pad if desired.

+1 for the mink oil. I have been using it on my 223 and 257 Bob and the cases seem to run through the sizer with little effort. :drinks:

[Ian Robertson]

If you put a lump of the yellow thick lanolin in a jar of 99% iso it will eventually disolve and turn the iso yellow. Pour off the liquid and leave the lump behind. I put it in a Dillon spray bottle and works the best I have ever used. I am told that liquid lanolin will mix right in, as mentioned above. Put the cases in some plain tumbling media for a few minutes to remove the lube after sizing. Walnut won't stick in the flash holes.

[Netherwolf]

To remove the lanolin I have a dedicated bowl for my frankford arnsonal case cleaner. I use the worn out walnut hulls from other case cleaning with a little mineral spirits mixed in, run the lubed cases about 20 min. the lube is gone..

I work for a commercial ammo remanufacturer & that's what he does.
Netherwolf

[223tenx]

I have a jar of Herter's case sizing lube from the seventies and it smells like hypoid gear oil. I still have most of it left. 2 ounces would probably be a lifetime supply for 3-4 people. I squirt lighter fluid on a rag and give each case a wipe as it comes out of the crimp die and use a 410 mop to keep the dies clean.

[yodar]

Some darn good ideas here!

About the lanolin.....the recipe I saw specifically said PURE lanolin, not anhydrous. The pure material is evidently like oil with no waxes in it so you don't have to worry about undisolved solids.

Alemite CD-2?? I had no idea it was still around. 'Course I haven't bought any since about 1966............:roll:

Think I'll try the cable compound idea first....mostly because I can grab some this afternoon.:mrgreen:

just buy Lee case lube in the tube and squirt out a glob of it into the Heet which is labeled 99% isopropanol

same as Midway (and Dillon) spray case lube. Will thicken on storage, just add a slosh of heet.


yodar

[ozzy1038]

1 part liquid lanolin 4 parts 99% alcohol. Remove lube by tumbling in fine untreated corn cob. Corn cob will absorb it. When the media loads up toss it. This is a great lube and many of the major brands are a lanolin base lube. Technically you don't have to remove the lube, but it is too sticky otherwise.

Another great use for it is storing guns. I really like it on black powder. You spray it on and it really creeps into everywhere before the alcohol evaporates. It lubes and protects. I think it is especially good for long term storage. It puts a nice layer over everything.

[mdi]

I'm another user of Mink Oil Boot Dressing. In fact reloading supplies and equipment are really hard to get around here (L.A.) except on line. I found the Mink Oil case lube idea in another forum a few years ago, tried it, been using it, and have never bought any commercial case lube. I got some Lee case lube with a hand press I bought (tried it, didn't like it) but I'd rather use the Mink Oil (plus it leaves my hands so soft :mrgreen:). When I inspect the cases afterward, I just wipe them a bit with a rag or just throw them in some old walnut shells in my rotary tumbler. No probs.

[Dale53]

One of the best "home made" lubes is readily available at your auto supply store. It is STP. It is one of the best "case forming" lubes available. It has extreme film strength which is needed for a good case lube. However, the only satisfactory way of removing it is with solvent on a rag wiping each case.

I shot IPSC three gun matches and needed a GOOD case lube that could be used for volume loading. I loaded 1000 .308's at a time. I believe it was Ed Harris that suggested diluting Lee sizing lube (it is a water soluble wax) 10/1 water/lube, putting several cups of the mixture (you'll need several tubes of the inexpensive lube) in a .50 caliber ammo can. I mixed some up and found a discarded french fryer basket that fit. I would fill the basket with decapped cases and dip them into the lube liquid until completely submersed. Then, pull the basket out, shake, and drain. I laid the cases, by the hundreds on newspaper to dry over night. The cases were coated with a VERY thin coat inside and out. Dried, the stuff is inert as far as the powder is concerned.

It puts "just enough" lube for nice, effortless lubing and the case neck is lubed inside to eliminate drag over the expander button. The best performance I have ever had from case lubing.

I used this method while I was shooting IPSC Rifle and also when I shot big bore. Thanks to Ed Harris, I found the "true way".

After you have all of the rounds loaded, you can easily wipe every bit of lube from the cases with a dry cloth. I merely took a damp towel, put a large quantity of loaded rounds in the center and rolled the bunch of rounds back and forth a few times, then let dry overnight on newspapers.

This is very easy to do and economical with time. Quantity loading is a whole different animal but quite useful when you are trying to make a living, raise a family, and shoot competitively.

Dipping in Lee's diluted case lube is my choice.

If I'm going to do just a few cases, then Imperial is what I use.

Dale53

[3006guns]

Dale, thank you for that very detailed description and I think I owe everyone a bit of an apology. I forgot to mention that I was looking for a method of case lubing for use in a Dillon machine (producing pistol ammo in quantities). Although carbide dies would be an obvious answer, buying one for each caliber would get expensive in short order.

So, the lube would have to be something that can be applied in batch quantities, run through the process and NOT have to be deliberately wiped from each case. The idea of using the diluted Lee lube is excellent, but what caught my attention was the removal method. It's the one step in the whole thing that eluded me and will work well when processing a large lot of ammo. So simple. You've solved my problem!

I'll still use other lube methods when reloading rifle ammunition, mostly because it's at a slower pace.......and I have a fair stockpile of those lubes!:mrgreen:

[Dale53]

3006guns;
I do not normally lube pistol cases but there is no reason why the diluted Lee lube would be any less useful than with rifle cases. Adjust the dilution to suit you. If you get it too diluted, you may stick a case (I never have but...). Shake or stir the diluted lube before using as it tends to settle out over time. I keep it in a .50 caliber ammo can and just shake the sealed can before opening and using.

Be especially careful to decap before you lube. This allows air to circulate through the case interior so it is DRY inside before you try to reload the case.

The thing I especially like is that the case neck is lubed making "expander drag" a thing of the past. This is, by no means, confined to rifle cases. I have had pistol cases (especially long strong cases like the .44 magnum) drag so hard that they made press operation difficult. I tumble my cases before reloading but still drag can raise it's ugly head.

I have ALL carbide dies for the many pistol and revolver calibers I load. Have you checked Lee's prices on their dies? They are extremely reasonable and are of excellent quality in spite of their low prices.

Thanks for the kind words.

Dale53

[Shooter6br]

i USE A MIX OF BEESWAX AND VEGETABKLE SHORTNING. I BELEIVE 3 TO 1 sHORTNING TO WAX.i CANT TAKE CREDIT iT IS jUNIOR lUBE.ALSO USE IT AS A BULLET LUBE FOR MY 45-70 WIPE ON STYLE RICK

[Skipper]

Believe it or not, Alberto VO-5 works pretty damn good.

[cast367]

3006 guns
I use armament clean oil with flanel and wipe the cases. Its very simpel and cheap.
Its works exelent.

leo367

[GabbyM]

I've been working through a bottle of Dillon case lube for years.
When I've a big batch of cases like 5.56mm. I place several hundred in a cardboard box. Spray on the lube then using my hands stir to coat all cases. Takes about fifteen seconds start to finish. After sizing and cleaning primer pockets I tumble with corn cob media in a vibratory machine. after they clean up which is easy to determine since the corn cob quits sticking. I add a dollop of case polish. The most annoying part is using a wire to push though every flash hole ensuring no media is packed in their or inside the case.

I must have ten thousand cases done with that one bottle of Dillon lube. I did cut it with alcohol when it was about half empty filled it back to the top. Still plenty slick. If I ever empty it I'll probably makes up some from the lanolin I keep for mixing bullet lube. Out of alcohol but I think it's available at paint supply stores.

[UweJ]

Like Calamity Jake I use the same recipe exept for one alteration. I only use 1 tbs full of lanolin. I don´t have to clean the cases after the alcohol evaporates.
Uwe

[Dale53]

GabbyM;
When I was shooting Big Bore i learned to "batch process". I used a Lee universal decapper and decapped all of the cases. I preferred Military Match cases for my 30'06 and .308 cases as well as the later .223 cases. After the first decapping, I swaged the primer pockets on the cases that required it. On the others, I just cleaned the primer pockets. Following the lead of Ed Harris, I diluted Lee's water soluble case lube on the basis of 10 parts water/one part case lube. I found a french fryer basket that fit a .50 caliber GI can, put the solution in the can, filled the basket with clean (tumble cleaned) decapped cases, shook the excess off and spread them out on newspapers to dry overnight. The beauty of Lee's water soluble case lube is that it is a wax and doesn't have to be cleaned from the case. It drys as a dry film INSIDE and outside. It is inert so it doesn't damage powder. It completely eliminates drag of the expanding stem on the size die and THAT is a distinct advantage.

To emphasize the order of things:

1 - Tumble clean fired cases
2 - Decap and clean primer pockets (this automatically takes care of groundcorn cobb
in the flash hole - the decapping stem clears it
3 - Dip the cases in Lee's diluted water soluble case lube and spread out
on newspapers to dry overnight
4 - Enjoy the freedom from drag over the expanding stem
5 - The GI can is sealed tight after use and the case lube will last for many,
many uses. It DOES need to be shaken before each use as it will
separate while sitting.


I did a thousand cases at a time, then batch loaded them with my Dillon 550B. Doing things this way, I put only clean cases through my sizing dies, they were well lubed both inside and out and did NOT require cleaning afterwards to remove the sizing wax. However, if leaving the sizing wax on the outside of the cases bothers you (possible extra back thrust on the rifle bolt, etc, then it is an easy matter to tumble loaded rounds for fifteen minutes to clean the exterior).

People worry about tumbling loaded rounds. The factory tumbles loaded rounds on every one they make. Just limit the time to fifteen minutes. Then I ALWAYS remove them immediately from the tumbler (don't want any possible solvent fumes to infiltrate the primers and damage them).

This system has worked well for me for many years.

Dale53

[1hole]

"Believe it or not, Alberto VO-5 works pretty damn good. "

I believe it. Actually soaps can be a very effective lube. Wire pulling lubes and Lee's excellant white toothpaste lube are soaps, I think RCBS "water soluable" lube is as well.

Waxes are excellant. Both Imperial and Hornady's "Unique' are reloader marketed soft waxes. Others that work very well are Kiwi Neutral Shoe Wax, Sno-Proof and Mink Oil boot treatment. Johnson's paste floor wax and Chap-Stick lip balm are pretty good too.

Thick oils with a high percentage of lanolin work well, including some sun screens and nursing mother's nipple balm/creams.

KY Jelly and it's generics work.

Crisko cooking shortening works, as do kitchen spray "butters" and PAM. Messy but they work!

I like Imperial, Mink Oil or Sno-Seal boot treatments (all soft waxes) best. Cheap, easy to apply with finger tips, clean and easy to remove.

But NOT WD-40, as I recently read of one guy trying! :)

[longhorn47]

And I thought I was the only one to use nursing mothers nipple balm cream but not on cast bullets please

[rockrat]

I am using liquid lanonlin from a health foods store about 1 pt lanolin to 16 parts isopropanol. Will try the tumbling to get it off. Only drawback, it wants to stay on the case.

[Dale53]

When I am bulk loading (1000 rounds or so at a time) I have found it useful to keep my old dirty media in a separate container. I have the LARGE Dillon vibratory tumbler. Using the OLD (dirty) media, I add two caps of odorless mineral spirits and tumble my loaded rounds for fifteen minutes. NOTE the time. I then IMMEDIATELY remove the loaded rounds (I don't want fumes from the mineral spirits to possibly infiltrate the primers).

Fifteen minutes will remove the case lube completely and the rounds are both dry and clean. Fifteen minutes will NOT cause any problems with the powder or primers.

FWIW
Dale53

[Ekalb2000]

mobil one

[MtGun44]

If price is the problem, buy Lee Carbide pistol dies. Cheap and good.

I'd NEVER lube any pistol caliber that I was going to load in quantity on the
550 !

Bill

[Netherwolf]

...After the alcohol evaporates, leaving the lanolin for resizing...how do you remove it, or is it even necessary? Anyone care to share their experience? Thanks!

I'm not gonna wade through 3 pages of replies to see if anyone actually answered your question (the thread seemed to morph into a discussion about various lubes rather than how to get the crap off after use). I work for a commercial remanufacturer who tumbles his brass after resizing to get the lube off before resuming the loading process. Yes, it's a bit more expense in terms of extra media but it works, works right now & is less time comsuming than hand washing/wiping the stuff off - no muss, no fuss, so to speak.

Netherwolf

[Calamity Jake]

I'm not gonna wade through 3 pages of replies to see if anyone actually answered your question (the thread seemed to morph into a discussion about various lubes rather than how to get the crap off after use). I work for a commercial remanufacturer who tumbles his brass after resizing to get the lube off before resuming the loading process. Yes, it's a bit more expense in terms of extra media but it works, works right now & is less time comsuming than hand washing/wiping the stuff off - no muss, no fuss, so to speak.

Netherwolf

All you need to read is the 1st page. [smilie=1:

I answered his ? on post #10

[Shooter6br]

I use 2 parts veg shorting and 1 part beeswax melted .I use it as a finger lube for my 45-70. Member Junior receipe

[Netherwolf]

All you need to read is the 1st page. [smilie=1:

I answered his ? on post #10

I didn't make it to #10. Just got impatient that no one was answering the guys question. Oh well, if getting egg on my face is the worse thing I do today, I'll be in pretty good shape.
Netherwolf

[R.C. Hatter]

:violin:I have used common Crisco with great satisfaction to lube cases. To remove lube,
use isopropyl alcohol on a shop rag to wipe off cases, then tumble as usual in tumbler
if you so desire. It's cheap, doesn't stain clothing or shop rags, and just plain works.

[Texasflyboy]

I believe it was Ed Harris that suggested diluting Lee sizing lube (it is a water soluble wax) 10/1 water/lube, putting several cups of the mixture (you'll need several tubes of the inexpensive lube) in a .50 caliber ammo can.

LOL. Deja Vu. I watched Ed do just that a few months ago when I over at his place. I thought then "That is slick, I need to do that myself".

I still use Imperial Wax. I don't load nearly the volume Ed does. At the moment.:sad:

[zxcvbob]

I haven't tried this yet because I have a couple of bottles of Dillon spray case lube (plus I usually use Kiwi mink oil for a case lube) but castor oil is an EP lubricant and it's soluble in alcohol. And it's cheaper and easier to find than lanolin. So you should be able to make a good spray case lube using castor oil (the laxative) and denatured alcohol -- not sure what the dilution would be, but I'd start out maybe 7:1 (one Tablespoon castor oil in a 4 ounce spray bottle and fill with alcohol) and see how that worked.

[JKH]

zxcvbob,

Thanks for the idea! I have been toying with making a lanolin based spray lube but no appropriate lanolin is available locally, ordering it pushes the cost over buying ready made lube.

I bought a bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol for $4+ and a 6 oz bottle of Castor oil for $5, mixed 1.5 tablespoons of oil with 4 ounce's alcohol and put it in a spray bottle, lubed 40 .30-06 cases the other day and ran them through the die, not quite as smooth as the old Hornady Unique paste I have used for 25 years (same small tub! still half full) but amply slick to get the job done and a LOT faster than applying lube to each case prior to sizing.

Now, the only issue I have is quick and easy removal of the castor oil, I tryed washing with hot water and Dawn dish detergent with so so results, it wipes off easily but I dont want to have to wipe each case as it is tedious and very time consuming, and I do not own a case tumbler so that is out.
Any suggestions? How about a bath in cheaper 70% isoporpol alcohol? Or?

Even if I have to hand wipe the cases I will stick with this lube for now, it takes a lot longer to set the cases up than to spray them (I could leave themlying down but like to hit them from both sides at a 45 deg angle and let the spray go into the case mouth to lube the expander, seems to work well at elast with LEE expanders). The supply I have should last a couple years or at least 3 or 4 thousand cases.

Jeff

[Char-Gar]

Mobil Vactra No 2 Way Oil makes a nifty case lubricant. For fun, I just used a little on an unsized GI 30-06 case and ran it into an 8 X 57 form die. I now have a long necked 8 X 57 case as easy as pie. It wipes off with a paper towl.

Those folks will lathes and mills buy this stuff by the gallon for about $18.00 per. It also makes a great lube for autopistol raceways. I keep a thin coat on the bolt of my Clark Ruger Mk II race gun.

[lead Foot]

I've used Sorbolene cream for years it's cheap and softens your dry hands at the same time.
Lead foot;

[Lead Fred]

WHen I sold my 69 Ranchero, I had a quart of ATF thats been kicking around in the shop for years. A few months ago I tried it on some milsurp cases Im bringing back from thier rusted slumber.

Im using the same ATF for all my cases. you only lube every 4-5 case, and it cleans the dies real nice.

[Sprue]

Iso-HEET (red bottle) found in the auto section of your local mart store. Its used for fuel-line antifreeze & water remover. Costs around $2.00 for 12 oz.

Liquid Lanolin found at Drug Emporium or online in 4 OZ bottle about $7.00 bottle. Is also ingredient that I use in felix lube. 4oz bottle goes a long way.

4 parts Iso-HEET
1 part Liquid Lanolin

I use it in a 4 oz pump spray bottle, but if you use this stuff you had better test the applicator bottle itself first because it can potentially eat it up.

I wipe all my cases off by hand using laquer thinner that I always have on hand.

I never lube pistol cases unless they are bottle necks. As for this lube mixture, I've never had a stuck case however I cannot say that for the One Shot.

[zxcvbob]

WHen I sold my 69 Ranchero, I had a quart of ATF thats been kicking around in the shop for years. A few months ago I tried it on some milsurp cases Im bringing back from thier rusted slumber.

Im using the same ATF for all my cases. you only lube every 4-5 case, and it cleans the dies real nice.

I tried using ATF for case lube and stuck a case in the die on the first one, so be careful. Don't remember if it was a .45 Colt steel die or a .30 Carbine carbide die cuz it was 3 or 4 years ago.

[Dale53]

A case lube demands "film strength". Ordinary oils do NOT get it.

The old classics are Lanolin and STP. Now, THOSE have film strength. The only complaint I have about STP is that it requires a solvent cloth to remove from the cases (or tumble the loaded rounds, after). Lanolin was used for years with draw dies to draw brass. It used to be available from every drug store. Now, you just about have to order it.

STP is readily available and is much cheaper than commercial case lubes. However, a small jar of commercial case lube will last nearly forever.

When I was shooting big bore and IPSC three gun matches, I loaded rifle cartridges by the thousands. I use Lee water soluble case lube diluted into a "dip" and used an old french fry basket to dip the decapped cases. Then I spread them out on newpaper to dry overnight. The dry wax is inert and doesn't have to be removed from the cases after use. The beauty of this is the case necks were lubed for "no drag" from the expander. Still the best way to do large quantities of rifle cases. This tip came from Ed Harris and was/is "spot on".

Dale53

[zxcvbob]

The old classics are Lanolin and STP. Now, THOSE have film strength. The only complaint I have about STP is that it requires a solvent cloth to remove from the cases (or tumble the loaded rounds, after). Lanolin was used for years with draw dies to draw brass. It used to be available from every drug store. Now, you just about have to order it.Castor oil (from the pharmacy) is an extreme pressure lubricant with a high film strength. It's a pretty good substitute for lanolin. I haven't researched jojoba, but it's a possibility too. One other thing worth a try is any 2-cycle motor oil.

[Lead Fred]

I tried using ATF for case lube and stuck a case in the die on the first one, so be careful.

I only use it on milsurp virgin cases that Im FL sizing before cleaning them.

I trashed some 30-30 cases using ATF, so Im back to the RCBS lube for my civie cases

[carpetman]

I am no chemist so I don't know if this is true. I heard that GB Wire Aide ( Gardner/Bender) which can be bought at Lowe's for one place for about $5 a quart is the same thing as Lee's water soluble case lube which runs about same price for a small 4 oz tube. I put it on my hands and handling the cases lubes them. I have heard you can dilute it with either alcohol or water and use it in a spray bottle. I especially like the sounds of doing as Dale53 mentioned,
diluting it and submerging the cases to get rid of the expander ball friction. Maven you mentioned making 6x55 cases. I heard someplace that you can't shoot cast bullets in a 6x55 at high velocity???

[Maven]

Ray, I use the wire pulling lube you mentioned, but usually for FL resizing rather than case forming, although I suppose you could use it for that as well. It's also good for lubing CB's before shoving them through a Lee sizing die IF you lube them normally afterwards as I do. As for the 6.5 x 55mm, occasionally I'll use .30-06 brass and reform them into 6.5 x 55mm cases, but it is labororious. However, at least with CB loads, performance has been indistinguishable from actual 6.5 brass. Speaking of performance, many years ago I questioned the assertion of one of our members about accuracy at higher velocity in the Swede. I said it was possible, but considered ~1,800fps the upper limit, and I had targets and chrono. data to back it up. If you have a well-fitted CB in a VG+ bbl., use the "right" powder*, and are an adept shooter, I don't think the fast twist will preclude accuracy, but it will surely test your patience.


*I don't know what the right powder is, but I've had more success than failure with faster powders: WC 820; VV N133; AA 5744; IMR 4198. For higher speeds, I think I'd try IMR 3031 or 4064, but I've never needed to do so.

[twotoescharlie]

If no one has mentioned it, ( haven't read all the pages on this subject) "KIWI outdoor mink oil" at wally world, as good or better than Imperial and you get 3 times as much for less than half the price. been using it for a long time and it works for myself, cleanup with a paper towel.

TTC

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I usually use lanolin. I once bought a one pound jar many years ago and used it to refill a couple of small tins once sold by Lyman under the name "Easylube". They lasted the better part of 10 years; I'm still refilling them as they are handier on the loading bench than the one pound jar. The jar is not even 1/4 gone. I had it packed away when I last moved and could not locate it for a while...so in the interim I bought a small tube of white lithium grease...about 2-3 ounces for a buck and a half and tried it, figuring that if it didn't woek I could always use it on my presses. It worked great and of course needs to be wiped off with a solvent, and I did 15,000--9 mil cases lubing every fifth case with carbide dies plus another 1500--06 cases and theres still about 1/3 of the tube left. I wish that I had known about mink oil, GB wire pulling lube, STP, and some of the other formulas mentioned here, but it sometimes takes time to hear about and learn some things. LLS

[Echo]

I posted on this thread earlier, but should have mentioned my present method. I sold my rock polisher some time back, and now my procedure is thus:
>
I use a large ziplock bag, squeeze a small amount (squeeze about 2 kidney-bean-size blobs of CD-2), zip it shut, and massage the bag to spread the lube out. Unzip, dump in clean brass, zip, and hand-tumble for a couple minutes. Unzip and dump into a Cool-Whip container, and have at it. Dump the sized cases onto an old towel and rub off as much as possible. Continue with the reloading effort, and after bullets/boolits are seated, dump back on towel that has had some mineral spirits splashed on. Grab ends, see-saw for a couple minutes, and Voila!
>
Tried some spray-on lube, and stuck my first case. Tried again some time later, and did the same thing. Something about spray-on and me don't match...

[Char-Gar]

Film Strength huh! I had to look that up. Seems like it is the ability of a lubricant to keep an unbroken film on what it is placed on. I guess that is why Vactra 2 Way Oil works so well for me. Way oil is designed to go on machine ways which are often "V" in shape and stay put.

It also works well for raceways of auto pistols. I put a thin coat on the bolt of my Ruger Mk II race coat and it stays in place through several thousand rounds. Great case lube as well.

[two dogs]

i have been using bear grease for years.5 pound coffee can full will last a long time.

[thebigmac]

i am using a can of "amoco super gear lube" from 1971. Still some left, maybe another 10-12 years. I'm on my third lube pad. Does a great job!!!!!

[canyon-ghost]

Just tried Alberto VO-5, like Skipper recommended. It does work, is handy at the store. Got this idea from Ed Harris on CBA forum. It's incredibly slick and goes quite a ways.

[StarMetal]

Usually plains oils aren't going to work. Some members have found that out with ATF. One of the abilities of ATF is that it not only is a lubricant, it's designed so those clutches can grab...if they didn't you'd burn up your transmission. Problem with the gear oils is that they stink. I remember back in my chevy days that SAE90 smelled like it had onions in it. If you got it on your clothes you couldn't wash the smell of it out. STP doesn't stink but it's hard to get off. If you like STP for case sizing you might want to try Wynn's Friction proofer or Lucas oil treatment.

About the dry lubes like the Lee that leave a dry film in the case necks. Yup, that's all well and find for your expander ball not dragging but it ruins the neck tension grip. In fact you can feel your bullet go in such a lubed case neck much easier. I just brush my necks with a dry bronze brush. The expander pulls through them just fine and I have good neck tension grip on the bullet.

I use imperial wax for my sizing lube, but most everything I just neck size.

Joe

[Newtire]

I use the NOW brand lanolin they sell at health food stores around here in it's liquid form. Just use a little daub on a paper towel and lightly touch it to your fingertip and thumb. Do not lube the case neck outside or you will get dents.

I use a capful or 2 of laquer thinner in my vibrating case polisher and it gets the stuff off the cases.

To get the lanolin off my fingers, I use GO-JO orange hand cleaner.

[thebigmac]

stp has been good to me for over 20 years. Same can. Used very lightly on the pad.

[Dale53]

STP is a SUPERIOR case lube having VERY high film strength. I used it for years. The ONLY complaint I ever had was that you really needed a bit of solvent on a rag to remove it from the cases (or tumble loaded ammo for a maximum time of fifteen minutes to perfectly remove all lube from the cases). It doesn't wipe off easily with a rag without the solvent.

Dale53

[1hole]

"I heard that GB Wire Aide ( Gardner/Bender) which can be bought at Lowe's for one place for about $5 a quart is the same thing as Lee's water soluble case lube"


I'm no chemist but I've done a LOT of experimention with commercial and substitute case lubes. Don't know if Lee and wire lube is the "same" but it sure seems so. And that means they are liquid soaps, much the same as any of the very expensive (comparatively) commerical water soluable lube. Such soaps can be thinned and sprayed but, if it gets too thin, the coating will be insufficent and cases will stick. Sprays are good for those loading hundreds of cases at a time, especially pistol cases.

Several auto oils and greases such as STP have great film strength and work fine as a case lube. Problem is, as stated above, it's hard to remove and it's messy to use. I hate the stuff!

Waxes do very well. Soft waxes are easy to apply with finger tips as the cases are picked up, easy to clean off and work very well. Imperial and Unique are good examples. Again as has been mentioned, Kiwi and other "Mink Oil" or "Sno-Proff" type boot treatments are equally as good. They are easy to find and inexpensive too. For loading small to modest quanities of cases I much prefer a finger applied wax to any other type lube, MUCH more prectical than attempting to mix up some magic potion of sticky oils and greases!

Some other things that also work pretty well: Chap-Stick; women's lip sticks (not all); any color of Kiwi, et al, shoe wax/polish' Johnson, et al, floor wax; stick auto door latch lube; stick circular saw blade lube; outboard motor "high pressure" greases; bar type hand soaps that contain high levels of lanolin; ...

[donald duck]

I change my own oil and always add a quart of Shaler Rislone with the new oil and new filter. I drain the Rislone can in a separate container and then pour it in a small bottle to take to my loading area. Use a q-tip to coat inside mouth of cases and wipe outside of cases very lightly with the Rislone. Have never had a stuck case when using it. After sizing I do place my cases back into corn cob cleaner and vibrate for a couple of hours. I would not use anything else.

[Garyshome]

I'm gonna try the home made Dillon stuff on my 9mm cases. They are really tight when i try to resize. Don't want to mess up my press.

[3006guns]

Wow..........I hadn't seen this thread since I first started it back in 2009 with a simple question about removing lube! Many, many good ideas but one really caught my eye.....using a castor oil/alcohol mix. As mentioned, lanolin is sometimes hard to get in some areas (like mine) but castor oil is still a standard stocked item in our little drug store, so I'm going to try it. Since I have an extra tumbler, I'll use that for cleaning the cases afterwards and THANK YOU for that suggestion folks!

Something else I discovered.......Ace hardware has almost pure denatured (poisoned) alcohol in their paint section for about $18.00/gallon. Now a gallon would be several lifetime supplies for a dozen people, but it's also an excellent solvent for just about any degreasing/cleaning chore so it's handy to have around.

[pilgrim5]

I think I will try the lanoline/alcohol mix you can get 200 Proof alcohol and the liquid lanoline on ebay for not much money already have the spray bottles so here I go 1:12 mix so I can give my brass a light spray let it flash off and see how much it leaves behind I did see this on u tube where a guy made it and ran the same piece of brass into the die 6 times you sure cant do that with other lube! Using a lock and load progressive press w/brass and bullet feed installed

[mattw]

I have used pure anhydrous lanoline for years, just 1 finger in the goo and rub it into your hands and roll the cases around. After sizing about 10 minutes in old tumbler media with mineral spirits and you are done. Also leaves your skin feeling very soft! I learned this from a high volume reloader that took requests for special rifle calibers. I did many short runs of 1-300 on my rock chucker for him.