Replacing hammer on 1969/70 S&W Model 36

[Bloodhound689]

I recently picked up a Model 36 with a bobbed hammer. I would like to replace it so I can shoot both SA/DA and was wondering if I can simply just purchase one of the ones I have seen on eBay or elsewhere. Will I need to have it fitted or will I run into other problems. Not sure how many design changes S&W had around that time. Just figured I would ask here before spending the money on one that may not work.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I haven't tried it, but I suspect that current production parts will not fit in your vintage Mod. 36. I believe that you will have to order one made about the time yours was produced. If you obtain the correct era part little or no fitting should be required.

DG

[Winger Ed.]

I'd take in and have it done.
Even if getting the right part isn't an issue-- There are some tolerances that have to be right.
Firing pin protrusion is one of them.

[Bloodhound689]

Yes I would definitely have to find a hammer with a firing pin mounted on it I was just curious if others have done it with little to no fitting or as Ed said specific tolerances.

[wilecoyote]

I did the opposite: before bobbing the hammer of my 19, I got myself an age/model-correct spare to cut the spur, putting aside the original. I can guarantee that it is a part that may require patient handfitting, at best, at least in my vintage combat magnum, but if I succeeded it is evidently not that difficult, especially with Jerry Kuhnausen's manual at hand_

[pettypace]

IMHO, with a snubby the advantages of the bobbed hammer and DAO far outweigh any advantage of SA.

It's also likely that your bobbed hammer still has the factory SA notch and could be cocked for a SA let off just by starting the hammer back with the trigger, catching it with your thumb, and pulling it back to the cocked position. I don't much like the idea, although I imagine with practice one might become proficient at it. But why bother?

[stubshaft]

What I've done to some of mine, is to groove the top of the hammer, use the trigger to move the hammer to the rear and grip the top of the hammer to cock it. Once you get the hang of it, it is pretty fast.

[Bloodhound689]

The single action notch is still there. I do get the reason for the bobbed hammer but I doubt this will be a regular carry gun for me so the benefits won't matter.

[bedbugbilly]

I have a 36 snub as well as a 36 3" - great revolvers. I can't answer your question, but it would be worth as call to S & W to see what they had to say. I would think if you found a hammer from the same era, it would be the best route and then get a smith who is experienced in working on S & W to do the work. I know I've seen 36 parts on Fleabay and elsewhere and INMHO, if you want the hammer spur, it would be worth the time and effort. Good luck!

[JoeJames]

Many years ago I bought a used S&W Airweight made @1952. It was a predecessor to the 36. Bubba had bobbed the hammer and for some reason ground the side of the trigger guard down to half the normal width. I replaced the hammer with one probably from Numrich Arms. I honestly did not think about having problems fitting it, and none occurred.

302239

[wilecoyote]

the S&W revolvers were hand-fitted at the Factory, so even the correct replacement could, as example, rub the sides or one side of the hammer itself against the inner walls of the frame, at any pull of the trigger_so happened in my k-frame, but the adjustment is feasible.
this can even be found in models as out-of-the box, never touched or modified by the owner_
changing parts, even more interesting things can happen between the trigger assembly and the hammer assembly, as I've seen on mine, and some careful stoning may be required.
it's a trial and error matter of probability, at least before the clinton-hole era.
this book will explain it in detail, and will be your friend

[marlin39a]

Looked in my old parts manual from 1981. Looks like part # 043590000. That’s the whole hammer assembly. Retail back then was $14.50. Several up on eBay for $75.00

[rintinglen]

My experience in changing hammers has been uniformly good, but it is not a drop-in, guaranteed fit. I recently swapped out hammers in my model 67 and have done similar work in the past to at least a half a dozen other guns, one of them twice.

One thing that you will almost certainly have to swap is the sear from your old hammer to the new one. The hammer itself will swap and the firing pin will most likely will fit and function correctly, but the odds are that there will be an issue with the sear. Those were hand-fitted back in the day, and while it is no big trick to stone a sear, it can be a problem. If the new one is too long, it may prevent the double action function from working. If too short, the revolver may miss-fire due to light hammer strikes. But swapping the old sear to the new hammer commonly fixes this issue.

I recommend that you have the old hammer out of the gun so that you can visually compare it with the pictures of the ones you are considering. Make sure you don't buy a mim or a rimfire hammer. You want one that looks exactly like the one you have.

[243winxb]

Seen a guy drop in New target hammer & trigger on a M27, years ago. No issues.

I would never try it, if my gun.

2 years ago, factory replaced my M29-2* trigger, but not hammer. I would hope some fitting was involved?

Call S&W

[Bloodhound689]

Thank for all the tips. I will give S&W a call or talk with a local Smith here

[samari46]

My model 36 is a model 36-7 made around 1980 or so. You'll probably need the revision number which is usually stamped on the frame when you open the cylinder and serial number will most likely be needed as well. Frank

[redneck1]

I went a different route on a 3inch someone did a Bob job on .
Got a hammer from numrich and when it didn't just drop in and I work I sawed the spur off and tig welded it on the original hammer .

Little bit of clean up and some blueing a person would never know it had been touched .
I won't say it was the best way to fix it , but I was young and didn't have a clue on where to start with fitting the replacement.

[Bloodhound689]

I’m guessing I better take it to the range first before I decide to change anything. Only get to the range every couple of months now

[243winxb]

Just squeeze the trigger enough to be able to pull the hammer back for single action. Works unless notch was removed from hammer.
Try unloaded first.

[HWooldridge]

I would leave it alone and learn to thumb cock the bobbed hammer - another option is to have a gunsmith add a custom spur to the current one, then you'll have the only one in the world...

I have dropped in several replacement hammers over the years on different guns and minimal fitting was required in most cases.

[murf205]

My wife dropped her 36 and bent the spur back and cracked it. I bought a hammer from a guy at a gun show that had a bunch of S&W parts, carried it home and put it in without a hitch. I put over 100 rnds through it and never looked back. If you find one, I'd give it a try. If it needs to be "fitted" you can tell when you put the side plate back on.

[Bloodhound689]

Quick update. Bought a hammer off an auction site. Slid right in. Trigger feels like it may have a slight bit of creep but nothing I can't live with. Took it to the range with my daughter yesterday and now she has found her new favorite gun. Coincidentally I found a like new 1981 36 in blue to sit along side of it on Friday. I think I am now hooked on these little things. Thanks all for your suggestions