Die locking rings ???

[Shawlerbrook]

I know this has been discussed before but what are the best( I know it’s subjective) die lock rings and why ? I still debate this with myself. Thanks !

[Winger Ed.]

I like the ones with some form or fashion of a set screw.

I'm sure the 'O' ring ones are fine, I just don't like them.

[Moleman-]

I've replaced most of mine with the hornady type split ring style that clamps the die v/s the setscrew style. If you only use them on one press you can lock them in place and not have to adjust them each time they get put back on that press.

[TNsailorman]

I prefer the set screw rings with a lead shotgun pellet to protect the threads on the die. I traded all lmy split rings for the set screw type and am perfectly happy. james

[super6]

Yea I just gave some one a set of 7mm dies that had ding spots on the threads, The cure is lead shot under the screw.

[nuclearcricket]

Both style of rings are good and both will work just fine. The down side to the set screw rings is if someone tightens them down too much they can be a real bitch if you need to readjust them to another press. The split rings are easy to loosen up and readjust. The down side to the split rings is they are a little harder to do the final adjustment to as they can pull on the threads just a little and all but lock your die into the press, you need to back the die off a bit and then lock it down.
Sam

[Sig]

Split rings.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Guess it’s a depends, my Lee size/decappers still have the o ring style and I manually set them up each timefor a little bit of cam over. I have a few with the RCBS knurled clamp and setscrew types that generally live on my older less used dies. For the high use dies from all manufacturers pretty much all of them are sporting the RCBS hex setscrew type and associated black socket wrench for maximum repeatability. There are probably better newer choices these days, but this seems to work for me. The wrench hangs from a hook on the cabinet above the press with a flashlight and 4in crescent wrench for immediate use.

Here’s a pix, the set on the left is an older .38 Lee set with the RCBS rings and wrench. The set on the right is a Frankenstein set of dies put together to do my .38 LRN. When I get around to it I will get another handful of RCBS rings and this seat die will likely get one.

301949

[Shawlerbrook]

Metric, you sound like what I am doing. Was looking at the split Lee rings with both the O-ring and a locking screw.

[Multra]

I like the RCBS rings. RBCS also makes a wrench that fits over the top of the die to snug them down.

[hoodat]

I love the split type, and if anyone wants to trade me for a bunch of the set-screw type, get in touch via PM. jd

[Geezer in NH]

Split rings for me

[dtknowles]

Only want small hex locking rings. Nothing else will work on my Spar T press

[Sasquatch-1]

+1 on the Hornady. I like the fact that they squeeze the nut around the threads as opposed to jamming something into the threads. My least favorite (and this is strange coming from me because I'm a fanboy) is the RCBS. The Lee work OK, but with the "O" ring I check the depth each time I use them.

Everything used on a single stage press.

[jetinteriorguy]

The Lee rings work fine if you also get the plastic tool for tightening /loosening them from Titan. Yes, from time to time they may need minor adjustments, but it’s so simple to do and requires no tools to do it that it’s not even an issue IME. But since all my pistol loading is done on a Lee Turret it’s once and done with turrets for each caliber. Rifles on my single stage presses then they are all set up with lock rings, preferably the split type, although the set screw varieties work good with some lead shot between the screw and threads.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I prefer the ford...but the chevy is probably better built.

[pertnear]

I've replaced most of mine with the hornady type split ring style that clamps the die v/s the setscrew style. If you only use them on one press you can lock them in place and not have to adjust them each time they get put back on that press.


+1 on the Hornady. I like the fact that they squeeze the nut around the threads as opposed to jamming something into the threads. My least favorite (and this is strange coming from me because I'm a fanboy) is the RCBS. The Lee work OK, but with the "O" ring I check the depth each time I use them.

Everything used on a single stage press.

++1 on what these smart fella's said. I ordered a pack of Hornady rings & a wrench & set-up all my most used dies. They are a little more difficult to set-up initially, but after that, you're one-n-done. I always use the wrench to lightly torque the die to the press & my setting have always stayed consistent.

[pworley1]

I like the set screw and split ring much better than the o-ring type

[David2011]

If you have a press that has a removable bushing and will accept 1-1/4x12 dies then you have another option. You can use Hornady or Lee bushings. The initial cost kind of stings but the convenience is fantastic. Every die that I use on my Rock Chucker has a Hornady bushing. The dies are always adjusted perfectly and the time to change from one to another is about 2 seconds.

[Land Owner]

Lordy, Lordy. Can-O-Worms.

Hex head with set screw for me, though when "dialed in" the set screw is NOT used and is a PITA to wrench down on a limited space 5-station tool head.

Six (6) different types in my toolbox, so far...:
1.) aluminum knurled ring w/set screw (half dozen growing moss here)
2.) steel hex head w/set screw (prefered)
3.) aluminum knurled split ring w/flats and set screw (1-off unused)
4.) aluminum knurled split ring w/set screw (2 unused)
5.) steel knurled ring w/set screw (1-off unused)
6.) steel hex head no set screw (1-off)

https://i.postimg.cc/L5j84t7f/Locking-Rings.jpg

[Taterhead]

I've used most all. While the split ring types are arguably the best to secure a setting, they are not as versatile as the Lyman & RCBS hex style. They will both lock with the brass set screw and can be locked down on a progressive press die plate. Hornady, Forster and Redding are too crowded on a die plate.

Lee O ring type are fine on a progressive when flipped upside down but worthless for preserving settings off and on a press.

[stubshaft]

Split rings for me.

[Baltimoreed]

I’ve recycled the aluminum Lee rings and replaced them with real lockable rings. I like the look of the big knurled rings best but they all work ok.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I set all my dies up in Lee turrets, one time setup, so Lee rings work fine, though I like the older hex rings over the new scalloped. I use Redding Competition Shellholders to adjust for sizing headspace. Of the rest, I prefer the split ring that tightens around the die when screw is tightened. Lee also makes a Breech Lock die holder that locks onto the die. It works well for the portable Hand held Lee Breech Lock press, again one time setup.

[lightman]

I know this has been discussed before but what are the best( I know it’s subjective) die lock rings and why ? I still debate this with myself. Thanks !

I have a few different brands of dies. Bonanza, Dillon, Lee, RCBS, Redding, ect. That gives me several different types of lock rings. And some of those different brands have changed the type of lock ring over the years. So that gives me several different types to compare. My favorite type are the split ring. My least favorite is the type that uses the "O" ring. And some of this will depend on what type of press that you are using.

[45_Colt]

Interesting thread. I read it but didn't have much to-do about it (or thought, until now).

Here is what I've been doing and using. Having a variety of dies and looked them over. Have five setups for the RL550 in separate toolheads.

Along with 3 or 4 sets as separate dies for the RCBS single stage.

Right off I'll state that I don't like the Lee O-Ring dies. As rubber O-Rings dry out and become brittle. Fail.

In the RL550 toolheads most dies have a simple hex ring. The ones that have a set-screw lock don't have a set-screw. These dies aren't really removed, just snug up the hex and done. Swapping a toolhead takes no effort in die adjustments.

For the dies I use in the single-stage, I've moved to using the hex rings with brass tipped set screws. This allows for a quick die change while retaining the depth setting. The locked hex ring sets the die height.

Just a slight snug on the die/ring to keep it from moving. Then load away. Pull it out and replace with the next die.

45_Colt

[Shuz]

I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the 1" Dillon rings that easily enables a person to adjust dies when there is little clearance between dies, like a Dillon 450 or other progressive presses.

[45_Colt]

I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the 1" Dillon rings that easily enables a person to adjust dies when there is little clearance between dies, like a Dillon 450 or other progressive presses.

Yep, this is what I meant by the 'simple hex ring.' As you mention they are nice on a press such as the RL550 as it is easy to snug them down. Dillon sells them by the bag full, well, almost by the bag full. Well worth it.

I replace the other die lock rings with these and swap the locking rings onto dies used in the SS press.

45_Colt

[mdi]

For those that don't want to gouge the die body threads with a set screw; https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/tip-material~nylon-6-6-plastic/. And brass tipped https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/tip-material~brass/

[oley55]

split rings. I started using them because of my Co-Ax press, but I have issues using them on normal screw-in presses. When adjusting them to length and get to my desired position when I tighten down the split ring, the ring seems to compress into the top of the press. Removing the die after the split ring was tightened down requires some serious wrench power to remove the die. More power than I am willing to use reinstalling them resulting in a slight variation of set height.

Am I using the split rings incorrectly?

[45_Colt]

split rings. I started using them because of my Co-Ax press, but I have issues using them on normal screw-in presses. When adjusting them to length and get to my desired position when I tighten down the split ring, the ring seems to compress into the top of the press. Removing the die after the split ring was tightened down requires some serious wrench power to remove the die. More power than I am willing to use reinstalling them resulting in a slight variation of set height.

Am I using the split rings incorrectly?

As you get close to where you want/need to lock the lock into position. Tighten the lock ring screw as much as possible and still be able to _just_ adjust the die. Then back off the ring a smidgen and lock it into place.

Double check the adjustment and go from there.

The issue is that split rings close into the threads, which usually cams the ring further downward. This is due to the ring riding higher on the threads when loose. Then as the ring is tightened it moves with the direction of looseness in the thread.

Which is typically down, this is what locks the die up tight.

45_Colt

P.S. re-reading this looks confusing, hope it helps...

[oley55]

As you get close to where you want/need to lock the lock into position. Tighten the lock ring screw as much as possible and still be able to _just_ adjust the die. Then back off the ring a smidgen and lock it into place.

Double check the adjustment and go from there.

The issue is that split rings close into the threads, which usually cams the ring further downward. This is due to the ring riding higher on the threads when loose. Then as the ring is tightened it moves with the direction of looseness in the thread.

Which is typically down, this is what locks the die up tight.

45_Colt

P.S. re-reading this looks confusing, hope it helps...

nah, that makes sense and basically what I have been trying to do. The reality is that getting the split rings set just right seems to invoke a bit more trial n error as opposed to the set screw types.

[fatnhappy]

Split rings for me. Lead shot under a set screw is close second.

[richj]

split rings..co-ax for me too

[GregLaROCHE]

I use both and the O ring type seem to work, but I prefer the solid locking type, however I’m not going to change anything I already have.

[45_Colt]

nah, that makes sense and basically what I have been trying to do. The reality is that getting the split rings set just right seems to invoke a bit more trial n error as opposed to the set screw types.

This is true, but what is a little futzing when all is said and done, you are done. If you have access to the set-screw rings, go with them. I'm not one to tell folks to suffer...

45_Colt

[gwpercle]

Any ring with a simple set-screw and lead shot in the hole to protect the die threads .

The ring can have flats on it or not ... I can not damage the rings if I need to use the padded jaws on a set of Channel - Locks to adjust or loosen them .

I'm getting used to the Lee O-Ring set up but still prefer a set-screw .
Gary

[Shawlerbrook]

Just bought some Lee split rings with both O-ring and set screw. Will give a review if I ever get some time at the reloading bench. Too much outside work around the back 40 right now.

[wrench man]

RCBS hex nuts are the only ones that haven't been replaced with the Dillon hex nuts, they're all in Dillon tool heads so "set them and forget them!"

[hc18flyer]

" aluminum knurled split ring w/set screw" for me. I have a Forster Co-ax that I mostly use. I just have to not snap the tiny allen head screws! hc18flyer

[porthos]

does it really ......matter!!!!

[45_Colt]

does it really ......matter!!!!

On a single stage, yes, it matters. With a locking ring can R&R the die without losing the depth setting. Use a non-locking ring and need to adjust the die depth every time.

45_Colt

[porthos]

lock rings do not matter to me, because.... i never tighten the die down. i tighten it then crack it loose. then i tape a piece of duct tape over the lock ring and the top of the press. this serves the same purpose as the bonanza/forster press the die centers itself with the brass. a tight die dosen't mean that everything is in proper alignment. that is my thought, anyway.

[justindad]

For those that don't want to gouge the die body threads with a set screw; https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/tip-material~nylon-6-6-plastic/. And brass tipped https://www.mcmaster.com/set-screws/tip-material~brass/
What is the typical thread pitch for does? I have mostly RCBS and Redding dies (one Hornady set).