Building a re-loading bench

[mojavemike1]

Hello,
I cleaned out my 12'x8' shed for the purpose of re-loading, and need to build a bench.
I would like some thoughts on bench height, and any suggestions you may have with regard to layout and usefulness.
I have a MEC shot shell re-loader, Lee Pro 1000 Progressive for pistol, Lee Breech Lock Challenger for rifle.
I was going to use 8'x4'x1" outdoor ply for the top, cut down to 8'x3' and use the 1 foot piece for a shelf. I will also be casting boolits.
Thanks,
Mike

[454PB]

Mike, can this bench be bolted to a solid wall? That's the trick for making a solid bench. I built my actual reloading bench 35 years ago, and it's a monster. 4" square legs, 2X4 supports all around, 10' long, and a tongue and groove top made of 2 1/2" decking. It's gotta weigh over 200 pounds, but still needs to be bolted to a solid wall or the floor to make it solid and no movement.

More recently, I built a "casting" bench for the other end of the room. I did this one on the cheap, and used 3/4" particle board for the top, the frame, legs, and support are 2X4's. Again, it's bolted to the wall and everybit as solid as the reloading bench. I put two coats of primer on the top, then a coat of gloss white enamel. It's 40" tall, 8' long, and 26" deep. I used the rest of the 4'X8' piece of particle board to make a full length shelf underneath. At the time, the total cost of material was about $35, if cost is important to you. I also bought a piece of 3/8" steel strap 2' long and 6" wide and lag bolted it to the top. I then drilled and tapped 3/8" holes in various patterns to fit my reloading presses, sizers, and other items I might want to quickly and/or temporarily mount. It only takes minutes to add or remove any of these tools, and I can even remove the steel in about a minute if desired.

If the particle board gets burned or scratched, I can add a coat of enamel. A white top really allows good contrast and gathers light.

[lathesmith]

For me, a 36"+- height seems to be just right for a work bench. +1 to what 454PB said, the more solid you can make it the better.
lathesmith

[badgeredd]

"I was going to use 8'x4'x1" outdoor ply for the top"

I'd suggest that you want to lay some 2X stock under the 1" plywood to add more rigidness to the top. One generates a fair amount of torque with rifle cartridges and it would easier to do it now rather than later. I used 2"x10" lumber, but that was what I got hold of at the time (leftovers from construction of my house). My bench is really a bit shallow from front to back so I'd say you'll be happy with the 3' depth you're planning. The dimensions of mine are 30" deep x 8' long x 36" high. I've used up the top space with 2 lubers (one is on a quick change plate), 3 single stage presses and a Lee Classic Turret. I also put 2 stringers under the 2"x10" under layment to firm up the whole top and bench. You want a finish on the wood top that will clean up easily too.

As for a shelf, try to plan on adding more later. I'd bet you will be glad you did later.

Height is kinda a personal thing. I load everything standing (I'm 5"9"), so a 36" to 38" height is great by me.

And what the other guys said about making it SOLID!

Edd

[Pepe Ray]

For those of us older guys or ones with bad backs;
At least part of the top (50%?) should be high enough that you can touch the top with your elbow, without bending over or stretching.
The low portion can be utilized from a stool but you should change to a standing position frequently.
And ,yes, SOLID is a must.
Pepe Ray

[mojavemike1]

Thanks for all the input..I've chosen the 40" height as I'm 6ft and an old back !, and implemented most of your suggestions.
Mike

[Gerry N.]

I was going to use 8'x4'x1" outdoor ply for the top, cut down to 8'x3' and use the 1 foot piece for a shelf. Thanks,
Mike

Having worked as a woodworker at a workbench most of my life, I can say from experience that any workbench top wider than 2 feet placed against a wall is a fine place for stuff to accumulate to the point of making the bench useless. Eighteen inches is even better.

Instead, make more shelves for storing things on. 12" is plenty wide enough for shelves. An even better method is to use cheap cabinets such as tear-outs from remodeling projects or the cheapest utility cabinets you can find..

My bench is a tear-out lower cabinet 8' long x 22" deep and I still misplace the odd cat or small kid in the inevitable mess. The lower cabinet allows lots of closed storage and several very handy drawers. I made the top out of a sheet of 3/4" hi-density particle board for mass and stability. I fastened the cabinets to the outside house wall with #14 x3" wood screws. My bench wont move unless the house does.

Gerry N.

[Suo Gan]

For your height 38-40" should be about right. I reload using a taller stool. Some like to low ride. Play around with a tape measure and find out what size would suit you. While I agree that flat surfaces collect everything, I would argue that the larger the surface, the better. I have one bench that is four feet deep, perfect for laying all your stuff out on...just remember to put it all back again. I made the surface of my bench by laminating 2x12's, 1/2 inch plywood, and hard board. The hardboard makes it easy to clean up. I made the legs and lower shelf out of 4x4's. Make sure to place any lower shelves further back so your feet or legs don't hit them as you are standing at the bench. Buy a vice, and a tool box at a yard sale and you will be set!

[shotman]

Your Lee will be the problem. If you can try to find a used 1 3/4 exterior door. Many times you can get one from a lumber company that is used for a shipping protector. They most of the time they are 3' x 7' and that way you can down to 24" and you have good hard side to mount bolts near the edge. Fasten a 2x4 to wall so top will rest and screw down to it

[shriner]

Mine(24x48) is made of 2x4 "s on edge held by all tread with the top lag bolted to 4x6 legs held by 2x4 boxs ,with a shelf 12" off the floor. I can move it as needed but the presses don't.

[lathesmith]

I constructed a bench for my 13x lathe a while back, besides using some 2" angle iron I used a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 B/C plywood ripped in half and then doubled and screwed together for the top . It holds the 1,000lb lathe beautifully. So, as an inexpensive idea for a solid top, this was hard to beat. 2x4's would be a fine alternative for bracers instead of angle iron.
I agree that much deeper than 24 inches is too much of a personal temptation for me to use the area against the wall as semi-permanent storage. 12" deep shelves are a great idea, you can never have too many of these.
NOTE TO SELF: The workbench is NOT a storage shelf, (gritting teeth) The workbench IS NOT a storage shelf, The workbench...

lathesmith

[Jal5]

Here is a picture of mine before it got all cluttered up with needed stuff! Not bolted to the wall but it is very solid with the 4x4 legs and all the decking screws used to build it! I should have made the top longer though, and plan to add a new top longer with a kitchen cabinet base for the bottom of that part. It is a work in progress.

Joe

[FN in MT]

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h274/montanaguy375/DSC00073.jpg

This is a shotshell bench that now has my STAR luber on the left side. I went 36" wide with this one as I need the width when I add primers to the spolar loader. the top that covers the primers is fairly long. Width is a full eight feet.

I disagree that WIDER makes for clutter and to build shelves. Wide makes for useable space. As well as stability.

I'm 6'-2" and prefer to stand when I load. this one is 40" tall. Plans for this one folloow the NRMA plans pretty close. Able to be taken down, etc.

FN in MT

[mold maker]

I like shallow,(8-10") wall mounted shelves above the bench. This puts dies and tools at eye level where there is plenty of light for old eyes. This also helps keep the bench less cluttered.
My bench top is made of 2" solid maple doors from a hospital remodel. Each door made a bench top and 2 12" shelves. Bottom shelf is full of SAW ammo cans of cast and store bought bullets. Above it on 2nd shelf is .50 cal. cans of cleaned brass.
Second bench is for Mec 600 Jr and powder and primer storage. There is about a 5' asile between so I can use the same stool or office chair for both. Every thing except the bench tops is painted gloss white, and the bench tops have several coats of catalysed poly urethane for easy cleaning.
2 overhead double 8" fluorescent lights make it like working out doors, and even labels on the under bench shelves easy to see.
For those of you that are still young, build it like you are old and have dim eyes and a bad back. If you are lucky enough to live that long you will value your foresight.

[Char-Gar]

I just finished my new loading bench. It is 36 X 80 inches. It is 41" high with 4 X 4 legs and all other support and braces being 2 X 4. The top is a 1.75" solid core door with 1/4" birch plywood top. I have 2 1/2" molding around the edge with a slight lip to keep things from rolling on the floor. All that is left to do is give the top and molding a dose of Varathane.

I want my bench in the middle of the room so I can work on all four sides. There are other benches on the walls. I have had free standing loading benches before that were much smaller and lighter than this one, so I don't anticpate any problems with it not being anchored to the wall. If there is a problem, I will anchor it to the slab with angle iron and lag bolts in lead anchors.

It is one heavy mutha and with the shelves stacked with brass, bullets etc, it should stay put.

I prefer to work standing or with a stool. I am 6'3" tall and like others the back starts to ach after a time.

[Recluse]

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h274/montanaguy375/DSC00073.jpg

This is a shotshell bench that now has my STAR luber on the left side.

FN in MT

FN, that is one NICE bench you got there. Very well done. :drinks:

Mike, when you get everything finished, one key for the Lee Pro1000 press will be to make sure the bench does not move whatsoever and that the press is absolutely securely mounted.

My first progressive was a Pro1000 some twenty-two-odd years ago. It was mounted on an old coffee table that I moved around and used bags of shot to try and keep it stable. The press gave me a real pain in the eye. Subsequent benches later got it more stable and the press got better, but still a bit troublesome.

Couple of years ago, I mounted two 3/4" thick pieces of birch back to back and bolted them to my Craftsman five-drawer workbench and then mounted all the presses and equipment down.

Holy cow what a difference! That little Pro1000 works like gangbusters! It is mounted solidly, does not budge one bit--and I mean does not budge--and is now a joy to reload with.

The solidness helps ALL of the presses, it goes without saying, but especially the progressives. So, if I were you, I wouldn't hesitate for one second to add another inch of thickness to your platform, as well as what Badgeredd suggested about using some additional stock to add even more stability.

Nothing will frustrate you more than a reloading bench that flexes and moves. [smilie=b: Trust me. [smilie=1:

Enjoy.

:coffee: