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ClassicCannons
01-25-2009, 09:58 PM
Here's a neat mold i had made would this be better in ductile cast iron since most molds are cast iron thanks the specs are below the bottom link is to more pictures on my webpage:castmine:


http://classiccannons.com/images/733_9.JPG


http://classiccannons.com/images/733_8.JPG

docone31
01-25-2009, 10:43 PM
HEY! That is a dang cool looking mold!
Heavy.
I wonder, if an alignment pin near the handles might make it not wear in time.
Great job.
I like aluminum molds personally. All mine are Lee.
Good job on that one.

Buckshot
01-26-2009, 01:47 AM
...............The cavity looks like a mirror! SUperb work.

................Buckshot

wonderwolf
01-26-2009, 01:58 AM
I'll keep that in mind if I ever get a 4 bore muzzle loader :drinks:

shotman
01-26-2009, 02:09 AM
you will need pins when it gets hot will be hard to keep lined up check out-- jeff tanner --he makes the best round ball mold out there shotman

45&30-30
01-26-2009, 04:53 AM
Very nice work. I like the way you set up your hinge point for that mould.

IcerUSA
01-26-2009, 09:48 AM
I would put 2 alinement pins in it with a bushing on the other half . Just to keep things lined up as the screws might loosen up with the heating and cooling a mould takes .

Keith

ClassicCannons
01-26-2009, 11:33 AM
HEY! That is a dang cool looking mold!
Heavy.
I wonder, if an alignment pin near the handles might make it not wear in time.
Great job.
I like aluminum molds personally. All mine are Lee.
Good job on that one.


The mold really isn't that heavy

ClassicCannons
01-26-2009, 11:41 AM
I would put 2 alinement pins in it with a bushing on the other half . Just to keep things lined up as the screws might loosen up with the heating and cooling a mould takes .

Keith

Hi Keith
I had had that problem before on this one the 1/4-28 allen screws tread into the handle and their is a roll pin in the hinge which i had changed to a stainless steel.After i did that they were fine but later i had just stoped making them with hinges & handles and just gave the mold cavity for free when people bought the 1" mortars and in those i did have the piolet pins which were also roll pin their was just to much work in milling out the hinge socket Thanks for the input Austin

ClassicCannons
01-26-2009, 11:44 AM
...............The cavity looks like a mirror! SUperb work.

................Buckshot
Thanks buck shot i had used 1600 grit wet dry and then polished them and then faced off the face of the mold to the correct depth Thanks

ClassicCannons
01-26-2009, 11:46 AM
I would put 2 alinement pins in it with a bushing on the other half . Just to keep things lined up as the screws might loosen up with the heating and cooling a mould takes .

Keith


I had had that problem before on this one the 1/4-28 allen screws tread into the handle and their is a roll pin in the hinge which i had changed to a stainless steel.After i did that they were fine but later i had just stoped making them with hinges & handles and just gave the mold cavity for free when people bought the 1" mortars and in those i did have the piolet pins which were also roll pin their was just to much work in milling out the hinge socket Thanks for the input Austin

ClassicCannons
01-26-2009, 11:51 AM
Very nice work. I like the way you set up your hinge point for that mould.

After a few diffrent styles i had tried this one worked the best because the wide openining on the off set hinge pin and the play in the joint was none I had later milled a key slot in the cavity for the hinge and tat worked out great Thanks Austin

ddeaton
01-27-2009, 06:48 PM
What do the balls measure at after casting? I have a 1" bore rifled British Wall Gun and a Jeff Tanner mold. The balls from it drop at 1.040". Can you tweak the cavity size a little and what do you get for them?

ClassicCannons
01-28-2009, 12:18 AM
What do the balls measure at after casting? I have a 1" bore rifled British Wall Gun and a Jeff Tanner mold. The balls from it drop at 1.040". Can you tweak the cavity size a little and what do you get for them?

Hello I can make the mold cavity to the size you need this mold cast out the ball at 1.002 because its aluminum and i had machined at .500 radius and when its heated it expands i can reduce the radius to .499 for a .998 ball spherically thats why i had wanted to change them to cast iron I had also added the set pin

Plaster cast was 1.000
http://classiccannons.com/images/733_5.JPG
lead cast was 1.002
http://classiccannons.com/images/733_7.JPG
mic out at .500 radius
http://classiccannons.com/images/549_1.JPG

ClassicCannons
01-28-2009, 12:44 AM
What do the balls measure at after casting? I have a 1" bore rifled British Wall Gun and a Jeff Tanner mold. The balls from it drop at 1.040". Can you tweak the cavity size a little and what do you get for them?

Hello I can make the mold cavity to the size you need this mold cast out the ball at 1.002 because its aluminum and i had machined at .500 radius and when its heated it expands i can reduce the radius to .499 for a .998 ball spericaly thats why i had wanted to change them to cast iron I had also added the set pin
Plaster cast was 1.000
http://classiccannons.com/images/733_5.JPG
lead cast was 1.002
http://classiccannons.com/images/733_7.JPG
mic out at .500 radius
http://classiccannons.com/images/549_1.JPG

ddeaton
01-28-2009, 11:32 AM
I will keep in touch, I would rather wait for the iron. How close are you on them?

ClassicCannons
01-28-2009, 11:38 AM
Hi again i can make a steel one what size do you need .998 1.000 or more under size just let me know and i'll start one and email the results on the finished ball size thanks Austin:coffee:

Morgan Astorbilt
02-01-2009, 11:26 AM
I'm looking for a 2.5" mold for my 3/4 scale six pounder. The 3lb salmon sinker molds (Dixie), I'm now using are casting about 1/8" small. Can you make a mold this size?
Morgan

MaxHeadSpace
02-01-2009, 01:39 PM
I use a cannonball fish sinker mold. 3 oz. is just under 1" and 4 oz. is just over 1". I'm not casting for accuracy, and mostly I just shoot "blanks" in this pup.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Ontologix/fincar1.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj188/Ontologix/fincar3.jpg



1" drawn over mandrel steam tube, improvised a jig for the trunnions, everything else is out of the hardware store, odds/ends.

The neighbors refer to me affectionately as, "The nut up on the ridge with the cannon."

July 4th, Christmas, New Year's, Thanksgiving, Easter, Valentine's Day, Memorial Day, Labor Day . . . And when I have guests. :D

deltaenterprizes
02-01-2009, 01:42 PM
That is nice work, but making the hinge as part of the mold adds both material and labor that is needed every time you make a mold and a point of wear that is your only alignment method.
What will keep the halves aligned when the hinge wears?

From the amount of work and materials I see, you must be working for minimum wage.

ClassicCannons
02-01-2009, 01:52 PM
Hello sure i can make the mold cavity it will cast the balls out at 2.437 thats for the windage which is 1/40 of the bore or if you would like it at 2.500 let me know what does the bore mic out at also it will be a duel cavity mold and will be rectangle I'll have some pictures later of it i had also added set pins on them thanks Austin

I'm looking for a 2.5" mold for my 3/4 scale six pounder. The 3lb salmon sinker molds (Dixie), I'm now using are casting about 1/8" small. Can you make a mold this size?
Morgan

ClassicCannons
02-01-2009, 02:06 PM
Hello
I had changed the hinge to 303 stainless steel and had milled out a slot for the hinge to set in their is perhaps .0005 to .001 in play after i had done that and i had also added 2 roll pins i'll have better images later how ever this .750 mold cast out the ball for a dia of .733 thats for the windage on the bore which is 1/40 I had sold these low because i wasn't getting what i had wanted you can only get what people are willing to pay times are tough wish i could get more Thanks Austin
Check out the Mortar here

http://classiccannons.com/1838brass750coehorn.html

http://classiccannons.com/images/640_mMVC-005F.JPG

http://classiccannons.com/images/640_mMVC-011F.JPG

http://classiccannons.com/images/640_mMVC-016F.JPG

ClassicCannons
02-01-2009, 02:23 PM
Hello
I had changed the hinge to 303 stainless steel and had milled out a slot for the hinge to set in their is perhaps .0005 to .001 in play after i had done that and i had also added 2 roll pins i'll have better images later how ever this .750 mold cast out the ball for a dia of .733 thats for the windage on the bore which is 1/40 I had sold these low because i wasn't getting what i had wanted you can only get what people are willing to pay times are tough wish i could get more Thanks Austin
http://classiccannons.com/images/640_mMVC-011F.JPG
http://classiccannons.com/1838brass750coehorn.html
:Fire: :drinks: :twisted:

That is nice work, but making the hinge as part of the mold adds both material and labor that is needed every time you make a mold and a point of wear that is your only alignment method.
What will keep the halves aligned when the hinge wears?

From the amount of work and materials I see, you must be working for minimum wage.

Red River Rick
02-01-2009, 04:33 PM
Here's a pic of a mould I made for a customer, for his 1" Hotchkiss Cannon. That's a 45-70 round for comparison.


RRR

ddeaton
02-01-2009, 04:41 PM
Hi again i can make a steel one what size do you need .998 1.000 or more under size just let me know and i'll start one and email the results on the finished ball size thanks Austin:coffee:

I will need a little over 1" and alum will probably be fine. I will let you know exactly when I do some measuring and cyphering.

ClassicCannons
02-01-2009, 05:33 PM
Thats a dam nice mould great maching did you do this with a CNC puts mine to shame :twisted: how much did you charge for it Thanks Austin

Here's a pic of a mould I made for a customer, for his 1" Hotchkiss Cannon. That's a 45-70 round for comparison.


RRR

Red River Rick
02-01-2009, 06:59 PM
ClassicCannons:

Yes, this mould was machined on a CNC. I think it would be pretty hard to machine this conventionally, unless you had a "Giant" cherri-cutter. All programing was done via CAD/CAM and the posted program sent directly to my machine via RS-232 communication.

I don't recall what I charged for the mould, but I know it wasn't cheap. The customer wanted a bullet so he could shoot his cannon and not have to spend a fortune on ammo. He was loading the empty case full of BP, seating one of these cast bullets on top and then firing these giant BP rounds. I did have a few pictures that he sent but can't seem to find them, if I do, I'll post them.

RRR

Morgan Astorbilt
02-10-2009, 03:26 AM
Hello sure i can make the mold cavity it will cast the balls out at 2.437 thats for the windage which is 1/40 of the bore or if you would like it at 2.500 let me know what does the bore mic out at also it will be a duel cavity mold and will be rectangle I'll have some pictures later of it i had also added set pins on them thanks Austin

Auston, The bore is 2.625". 2.5" will give me plenty of windage. Back when you could cut the end off an old-style beer or pop can with a can opener, I used to fill them with cement and shoot them. Tennis balls are also fun, but many split from the pressure.
What will an iron mold cost?
Morgan