Lee Conical Bullet Mold

[Rab]

Any one ever used one of the Lee Conical Bullet Molds for a 1851 Navy? I heard rumors that they seal up enough so you don't need to grease the cylinder.

[Boerrancher]

Any one ever used one of the Lee Conical Bullet Molds for a 1851 Navy? I heard rumors that they seal up enough so you don't need to grease the cylinder.

I have heard rumors that by not using grease on any type of cap and ball revolver no matter what type of boolit is used can cause multiple ignitions. The multiple ignition happens when the boolit jumps the gap between the barrel and the cylinder. It does not matter how good the boolit seals off you still have the other chambers exposed to burning powder and hot ash when the boolit leaves the cylinder and enters the barrel.

Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

Joe

[Boz330]

Over powder felt wads gets you out of greasing the cylinder. Otherwise I think that I would do it.
I'll bet that really gets your attention when they all go.:holysheep

Bob

[jhrosier]

....
I'll bet that really gets your attention when they all go.:holysheep

Bob

You will get religion the first time that it happens.[smilie=1:
Don't ask me how I know.

Since I recently got a new C&B revolver, after many years without, i've been reading up on the subject.
It seems that the folks with experience are mostly convinced that the flash over is much more likely at the rear of the cylinder than the front. Tight fitting caps seem to make a huge difference in preventing crossfires.
It does seem to make sense that if the ball is a tight fit (shaves a 'ring'), there is no path past the ball for a flash.

I've shot the revolvers with and without grease and could see no benefit to the grease in accuracy or function. It does seem to make a big mess when it sprays around.
The Colt style guns seem to go about three loadings before binding starts and maybe one more loading for the Remington. The Ruger Old Army handles fouling well and I have shot mine all afternoon with no cleaning needed.


Jack

[NickSS]

I have shot C&B revolvers for over 40 years and can tell you that double ingnition does happen but not often. I have only had one in over 40 years and that one was intentional. I had heard a lot about the subject so took and 1860 Colt replica and loaded it with 28 gr of FFFG and balls that were undersized (This revolver needed .454 balls and I used .451 balls). I put the pistol in a machine rest I cobled together and touched it off with a string. First four cylinders full I shot with greese over the balls. All fired without a problem. The next cylinder full I left the greese off as I was getting tired of not having a double fire. I fired the first thee shots without a double. At the forth shot the chamber under the hammer and the loaded chamber just to the left fired together. I do not know where the second shot went to but it came nowhere near me. I then fired the last chamber. I have used the lee bullet in an 1861 Navy and they work OK and shoot about as accurately as a round ball. They do not shoot to the same point of impact though so you will have to adjust your aim. I always greese the mouths of my chambers more to provide lube so I can shoot more before the revolver fouls out than for safety reasons as I am convinced that with good tight balls and tight caps you will probably not have a double fire unless you have a rust hole between chambers.

[Kudu]

I have one of these moulds in .36 and I have to size the base a little to get them to enter the chambers of my .36 Remington. I couldn't load them straight or at all very easily without this sizing. I use a .358" sizer and just size the lower band a little.
Rich

[Grapeshot]

Of the Lee Conicals I have used, If the grease grooves are full of grease the chances of a chain fire are greatly diminished. I've been using conical in this way for more than thirty years and have not had a chain fire or double using conicals. Can't say that about Round Balls though.

[northmn]

There is a thread on chain firing. I have shot a lot of C&B revolvers without a chain fire, nor can I remember seeing one at a match. They do happen, but with a well built revolver it is rare and those I ahve talked to or talked about it have not been injured. I used to pinch #11 caps and never had one and even tried no grease. If the bullet has a grease groove then use that for lube. It really doesn't hurt to lube the cylinder as it offers extra softening for the BP fouling. Good luck

Northmn

[marlinman93]

Chain fires can (and do! ) happen, even when all the proper precautions are taken. They are not always caused by no lube, or undersized bullets, even though most do occur from this.
I experienced a chain fire in an 1860 Rem. Army .44, with the ends of the cylinders fully lubed, and the riight sized ball. Mine was caused from powder leaking past the nipple and cap. When the powder charge ignited it fired both chmabers on either side, creating a three at once effect.
The recoil was a big surprise, especially since I had so carefully lubed each chamber. Afterwards I examined the pistol and saw the telltale grey lead streaks down the outside of the barrel where the two extra chambers had fired and the balls had left their marks.
Maybe it will never happen to some folks, but regardless of how careful you are, it may. Surprising as it was, it wasn't what I would consider life threatening, and it didn't put me off ML guns.

[StrawHat]

Sam Colt was convinced that chain fires were from the back of the cylinder. I read somewhere he would demonstrate how his revovlers were safe from chain fires by sprinkling powder over the loaded, ungreased cylinder and firing it.

I have gotten away from grease over the lead but I like to shave a bit of lead off the boolit when I load.

As to using the conical in a 36, I have used the Lee conical in my 1861s but that was years ago. Apparently I was not thrilled with the load as I have loaded round ball for many years. Although on occasion I do load the Lee conical with the hollow point.

Good luck.

[Knarley]

One thought.....A touch of grease may help stop chain fires, but it WILL help keep the fouling on the front end of the cylinders softer so you'll have an easier time re-cocking the gun:-D
Like I said, just a thought
Regards,
Knarley