Mauser Trigger Issues

[DonHowe]

I'm hoping for ideas to help sort out said Mauser trigger.
I have put together a 95 Mauer in .257 Roberts intending it to be a simle rife. I decided to stick with the Mauser trigger wishing to add some adjustment later. The problem, which I have not encoyntered before, is that after the normal takeup an extreme amount of force is required to finish the pull to fire the rifle. Now I'm not talking about 6, 8 or even 10 pound trigger pull, it feels trying to break steel. When the trigger breaks there is zero travel past that point.
Ideas???

I should mention the trigger/sear did not come with this 95 receiver but is from a 1916 Mauser action that I used in another rifle.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

The manufacturing dimensions are slightly off. Normally most Mauser parts will interchange, even if made in other countries, but in your case it appears as an exception. Your choices would seem to be to read up on Mauser trigger action jobs (I'm sure you'll find some tutorials on U-tube), perhaps consult Kuhnhausen's shop manual on Mausers, or buy an after market trigger such as a Timney. You may, of course, experiment with some filing and polishing yourself, but trigger jobs can be tricky and too much may make the parts unsafe.

DG

[todd9.3x57]

a dayton trigger is needed.

http://daytraco.com/Products/Mark-II-Trigger-Assembly__DMT93.aspx

i have 3 or 4 mausers (93, 95 and 98) that needed a trigger put on. i called Timney and was told they don't have one. i went to dayton and some others and i decided that i will try dayton, mostly because of the price. i tried a 98 mauser dayton trigger and i fell in love with it. the 1916 spanish mausers are now cock on opening with the dayton trigger.

[Mk42gunner]

I think DG has the problem identified- tolerance stacking.

There are only about three pieces that really matter in a Mauser trigger system-- the cocking piece, the sear, and the trigger. Changing any one of them may fix the issue.

Robert

It may be as simple as the trigger pivot pin being worn. I have used the shank of a #31 drill as a replacement before.

R.

[LAGS]

I have used both Boyds and Timney triggers on small ring Mausers .
But I also did modify the original triggers to make them Adjustable.
Those also included a roller ball that smoothed the trigger pull .
The trigger does adjust down to about 1 1/2 lb and has an adjustment for the trigger over travel.
I did a couple of posts before on how to do the modification.

[DonHowe]

I have used both Boyds and Timney triggers on small ring Mausers .
But I also did modify the original triggers to make them Adjustable.
Those also included a roller ball that smoothed the trigger pull .
The trigger does adjust down to about 1 1/2 lb and has an adjustment for the trigger over travel.
I did a couple of posts before on how to do the modification.

This is what I have had in mind to try. I belive I have read of the mod you refer to. Have also read of simply adding take-up and overtravrl screws. I have no plans to mess with the engagement surfaces myself other than maybe polishing them.

So why not just use an aftermarket trigger? I have done so before, having installed a Timney Sportsman on a VZ-24 and a Timney Featherweight on a M1916. My reasons are (1) I don'/ want to spend the money if I don't have to, (2) I greatly admire simplicity and (3) I would like to do the mod for the experience and because I admire the work of the older guys who pioneered this stuff.
I will look into possible mismatch of parts as I have some pieces to experiment with.
FWIW, I lack the typical American view that a bolt action MUST cock on opening. To my mind, lCk of that helps make the pre-98 actions the slim/trim actions they are. Neither do I mind at all the low pressure cartrides that go in them!

[waksupi]

You need a trigger specifically for a '95. I had bought my X a fine custom Mauser rifle that had the wrong trigger, that had the habit of going off when the bolt was closed. New trigger, and it was fine.

[405grain]

Often I have found the sear and trigger pins on factory Mauser triggers to be bent, worn, or deformed. I got a bag of 3mm x 10mm dowel pins from McMaster-Carr and use these in place of the factory pins. I even use 3mm dowel pins when attaching aftermarket triggers on Mauser's. Besides using Timney and Bold triggers with good success, I have built three Mauser triggers using the single stage ball trigger from LAGS thread. It's a huge improvement over the military trigger.

[Texas by God]

A side by side comparison of the 1893, 1894/96, and 1895 triggers would be interesting- to note the differences.
I lucked out and found a Timney Sportsman for my 1916(1893) Oviedo. I have the old military trigger if you want it, Don.
I also think that the cock on closing feature is a non issue.

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[DonHowe]

All info I ccan find including Timney shows interchangeability between 93 thru 96 models plus 1916 which were updated 95s or newly madeby Oviedo and marked 1916.

I found and solved the problem. Reading the various suggestions lead me to remove all metal from the stock. I decided toreassembe and try the trigger at each step. With the action/barrel held firmly in the stock I tried the trigger and found the problem. A bit of extruded bedding material that I had looked at 50 times was interfering with sear movement. A whack on a screwdriver with a small hammer solved the problem!
This was a good reminder that we can miss things because we continue to look at a thing in exactly the same way. In this case I was certain the bedding was finished so the problem HAD to be in the metal parts. DUH!

Now I just may turn my attention to LAGS roller ball trigger mod. Why? For the experience and because I admire that sort of innovation.

[todd9.3x57]

I also think that the cock on closing feature is a non issue.

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it depends, especially when you are a one arm user:-D. my husqvarna m46(96 mauser small ring) in 9.3x57 was cock on close. i had a heck of a time closing the bolt. now it is cock on opening thanks to dayton speed lock cocking piece and spring.

i have two 1916 spanish mausers. on one, a cock on closing is the bee's knees. on the other one, i had a hard time closing the bolt. so to dayton, i go and now it is a cock on opening.

i have three 91 argie mausers and two 1898 spr armory that are cock on close and i love them, especially the krags.

[waksupi]

I also think that the cock on closing feature is a non issue.

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It took me some years to learn this, now I think a cock on closing is a plus, as it encourages proper loading for a controlled feed Mauser. They are meant to be beat like a rented mule when loading.

[Cap'n Morgan]

The trigger is clearly coming up against something. I take it you have tried it before assembling the stock & action?
If the problem persist with the stock off, it should be easy to tell what's wrong just by pulling the trigger while watching its movement.
Chances are the problem can be cured with a few strokes of a file.

[Texas by God]

Glad that you figured it out. Now, how about pics?
The SMLE and its descendants are widely held to be the best bolt action fighting rifle ever made. The cock on closing action is no handicap apparently..
Todd, you have so many guns that you forgot that Krags cock on opening![emoji16][emoji16]

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[DonHowe]

I have never figured out how to post pics. That said, this rifle is a work in proress. At this point the stock is a rework of a broken military job and ment to be an interim handle. Also the metal has yet to be finished. Not sure whether to Parj, blue or Dura Coat it.

As for the cock-on-close fearure, I don't mind it at all, it's just another way to do it.