Slugging a barrel

[dddddmorgan]

I've read countless times over the years about slugging a barrel (bore) to get exact dimensions so I think I'm going to give it a go.

I have a lot of "pure" lead (I've yet to test it's hardness but it "feels" to be almost dead soft), so where do I go from here?

I have 38 and 9mm and 44 and 45 caliber to slug (in handgun), I also have several rifles I'd like to try as well.

Looking forward to your input from personal experience.

[BK7saum]

Since you are talking about using your lead instead of an egg sinker, I'll tell you what I do.

I use (sacrifice) a fired case...cracked, etc and pour lead into the case to create a slug. as the case is fired, the slug should be over groove diameter. If not, you can squeeze it lengthwise in a vise to bump it up. As it was cast in a case, the slug will be smaller on one end to facilitate entry into the barrel. If a slug has been too long, I have cut it down with a coping saw or other small saw (or the case before pouring).

Smash the case when done as it may be fully annealed and unsafe to reload.

To slug, I oil the barrel and use a rawhide mallet or brass punch to carefully start the bullet (muzzle or breach). Finish pushing slug through barrel with drill rod or cleaning rod. You can wrap the rod with tape at intervals to eliminate contact with the bore.

(Do not use a wood dowel, if it breaks you may be in for a lot of work to remove. )

Measure when removed.

[Piedmont]

I use roundballs. If they are undersized I tap them with a hammer on concrete to make them at least slightly oversized and then do like BK7saum above. There isn't much resistance to the roundball so it is easy to do.

[Piedmont]

One additional point. If the roundball is much oversized a ring of lead gets sheared off when you start the ball at the muzzle (where I usually slug from, but not always) and that doesn't hurt a thing. You are left with a short bearing surface ball that moves down the barrel easily, especially if you used a bit of oil on it.

[dddddmorgan]

Thanks for the input. I hadn't thought about a roundball. I have a few that should cover my needs. I've owned a few B.P. arms over the years and have some miscellaneous.

I'm thinking something like Lee Alox would work for lubrication?

If I can't find anything in the cupboard I'll use the idea of the case, thanks.

[ryanmattes]

Just a little rem.oil or one shot is plenty to lube the barrel. Pure lead goes through pretty easy.

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[trapper9260]

When you get the lead started, then it will be easy the rest of the way . I oil the barrel and the lead and make sure everything is well oiled. For what is said also to do . I would save your Alox for when you need it for the bullets itself .

[StrawHat]

Getting the slug through the barrel is the easy part. Now, you need to measure it. With one exception, all S&W barrels have 5 grooves. The exception is blued S&W revolvers chambered for the 45 ACP, have six grooves. Measuring odd numbered grooves is a bit harder than even numbered. With even numbers you measure across opposite flats to get the maximum diameter or between the rifling fins to get bore diameter. Odd numbered grooves present a challenge that can be solved in a variety of ways. A proper machinist caliper and the correctly dimension vee block will get you the most accurate number. Wrapping the slug with a ribbon of tin, aluminum, or other hard material can also work. (Wrap the slug, measure, subtract twice the thickness of the wrap.) I am sure there are other ways.

When pushing the slug through, pay attention to your push rod. You will be able to feel tight or loose areas in the bore. A tight spot will give you a false reading as the lead will not spring back.

It can be an interesting endeavor but most of the time slugging a barrel gets inconclusive results.

Kevin

[Gtek]

I have taken a hard wood like Oak, Polar, Ash and drill a couple over desired to a depth of about 1/2" to 3/4" and do about ten more than you think you need. When they cool bang out and repeat if desired. I like the longer due to it gives you a little something to hold on a muzzle and more reading area. A pocket knife or a case chamfer tool you can put a nose on it for starting. Taking the time on the rod will certainly enhance the quest, large as possible (diameter) is best for multiple reasons. A soft mallet to flush is a given, a short rod of 4"-5" also helps to get down a little ways then transition to longer rod. Wrapping every so often, pistol inch or so, rifle six or so. Wrapping with electrical tape at points to just slip with thought of rotation keeping wraps same direction, I made mine snug so direction was issue. Get one just right, mic and duplicate through remaining wraps and lube when done with test fit.

[reddog81]

For revolvers I just slug the throats. You want to size for the throats anyways.