Long term mold storage?

[swOhioMatt]

I’ve cranked out around 1500 30-30 bullets on my Master Caster. It makes bullet production so easy. Anyway, I won’t need this mold again for at least a year. When I used LBT aluminum molds I didn’t worry about corrosion. My Accurate molds are iron. I’ve been keeping them in my safe with a golden rod, but is there something folks are doing for long term storage? Oil?

[gc45]

Applying oil is not necessary if molds are kept dry and free of moisture. Some may disagree as it may depend on our area of the country and humidity levels.. Here, I kept molds in a wood box in my reloading room that is heated to 65 degrees and have never has an issue over all the many years of using them. Many of my molds are from the 1800's, belonged to my Grandfather and my Father before me and are still making great bullets..

[georgerkahn]

For what it is worth, I'm a bit OCD, and spray my mould first with G96. I used to store them long-time with a cast bullet in each cavity, but too many sages (bion, I do "listen" on (rare ;)) occasion) suggested this being of no benefit. I then put mould in a plastic Plano box to which I have dropped in about a teaspoon of (uncooked :)) white rice. To finish it off, I place a piece of VPN paper atop it. I've taken out Lyman, Lachmiller, and RCBS moulds -- along with my cherished Hensley & Gibbs -- some, after more than ten years storage -- and they look as good as the day I put them away. As a btw, also, I keep them in a closet in my unheated ('cept when reloading) room in basement -- with general temps varying from the mid to high 30*sF to mid 70*sF in summer. Cement floor and cement block walls -- ambient humidity is generally (as read from a gauge I have) in the 32% to 40% range.
This has worked for me....
geo

[alamogunr]

See if your pharmacy will save some of the desiccant caps that come with bulk drugs. My son is a pharmacist and manages a pharmacy that supplies nursing homes and assisted living facilities. They throw out a bunch of these things. I usually put 3-6 in a plastic container along with one or two iron molds(depends on cavities). Since the desiccant caps are small, I usually replace them after about 6 months.

If you can't do this, look for crystal cat litter. It works also. I made a giant desiccant container for my safe from a one pound coffee can by punching many holes and lining the can with screen wire. This can be restored by putting it in a 250º oven which I do about once every 6 months.

These measures seem to work here in humid West Tennessee. I've yet to convince myself that a golden rod is sufficient by itself.

[lightman]

I spray mine with whatever flavor of oil that I use on my guns, wrap them in an oily rag and store them in a large Plano Dry Box. Over kill? Maybe, but they remain rust free.

[Martin Luber]

I coat with mineral oil and store. It comes off easily with Dawn soap water and a toothbrush .
Then they go on a hotplate for use

[JimB..]

Sealed in a 7mil poly bag with a CVI tab. Probably overkill, but I don’t want to have to clean them.

[HATCH]

I use synthetic 2cycle oil and put them in a thick walled ziplock (Uline)

[porthos]

i have molds that have not been used in 30 years. after last cast;they were wrapped in vpi paper and are stored in 50 cal. ammo can. they are still clean NO OIL of any kind...............

[gwpercle]

Before putting away I have started spraying my moulds with Dry Lubricant ... the can I have is Liquid Wrench #L512 which contains Cerflon particles ... which I believe is micro-Teflon .
Spray on and let it dry the teflon coating stops rusting ( I'm in Louisiana) and acts as a mould release and mould lube . They used to make a 4 oz. liquid version in a squeeze bottle , which I also like and apply the liquid dry lube with a Q-Tip to the cavities when I need a mould release . It only takes a few seconds to dry I'm sure any Dry Lube that's Teflon based would work ...
The good part is it doesn't contaminate the cavities and it doesn't need to be removed .
Works great on top and underside of Sprue plate and on top of blocks ...lead doesn't stick to teflon coated metal .
Really amazing stuff to use when casting ...spray pot sides , casting ladle ...any place you don't want lead to stick to .
Gary

[barnabus]

i have moulds that get used once a year that i oil and and use a food sealing machine to suck all air out

[zarrinvz24]

Polygunbag sells a vci treated bag for storing magazines. This is what you want.

[sharps4590]

I just put them back in the box they came in with whatever that paper is. Or, I have a cheap, StackOn roll away tool box I keep a bunch of molds in the drawers with nothing. I've never had any rust problems and it's plenty humid here in the Ozarks. They are all in the basement which is climate controlled so I expect that makes the difference. I think where they're stored; detached shop, non-climate controlled building/room or in your heated and cooled house makes more difference than how but, it NEVER hurts to be careful with them.

[Ben]

I can clean oil from a mould easier than I see a nice mould ruined with rust / corrosion.

Ben

[swOhioMatt]

Thanks all for the suggestions. It’s quite humid here in Southwest Ohio too, but it seems as long as you don’t do something stupid, they will likely be fine.

I’ll probably spray them with oil only so my OCD won’t make me worry about them.

Thanks!

[GregLaROCHE]

All my molds get sprayed with Ballistol after each use and are stored together inTupperware type boxes. I don’t really think about the next time I will be using a mold, but many haven’t been used for a couple of years and are still in great shape. Both aluminum and steel.

[ascast]

i put therm/store them in GI 50 cal ammo cans. I use some desiccant packs. Never oil them, never.... and never had any problems. Thats a couple hundred molds over 50 odd years. why make more work for yourself.

[varmintpopper]

Before putting away I have started spraying my moulds with Dry Lubricant ... the can I have is Liquid Wrench #L512 which contains Cerflon particles ... which I believe is micro-Teflon .
Spray on and let it dry the teflon coating stops rusting ( I'm in Louisiana) and acts as a mould release and mould lube . They used to make a 4 oz. liquid version in a squeeze bottle , which I also like and apply the liquid dry lube with a Q-Tip to the cavities when I need a mould release . It only takes a few seconds to dry I'm sure any Dry Lube that's Teflon based would work ...
The good part is it doesn't contaminate the cavities and it doesn't need to be removed .
Works great on top and underside of Sprue plate and on top of blocks ...lead doesn't stick to teflon coated metal .
Really amazing stuff to use when casting ...spray pot sides , casting ladle ...any place you don't want lead to stick to .
Gary

I believe Teflon gives off poison gas when heated, Be careful !

Good Shooting

Lindy

[James Wisner]

The past few years after finding rust on one of my molds.

When done casting I clean really well and then take a acid brush and coat the cavity's, and bottom of the spure plate/top of mould with a thin film of RIG grease.
Then a rubber band around the mold and put away in a steel ammo can in my heated shop.

My 2 cents worth
JW

[Walks]

When I was a kid, My Dad used to dip molds into a can of 30w. Then wrap in tin foil. I prefer to just store them in the safe next to the dehumidifier bar.

[Outpost75]

Pure mineral oil USP from the pharmacy gives good rust protection and sublimes away easily and completely when blocks are pre-heated on a hot plate, leaving no residue.

[FISH4BUGS]

This may be declared heresy, but when cooled down, I spray my beloved Hensley & Gibbs moulds with WD40....yes, WD40.
Then I tightly wrap the mould in a plastic bag (like the ones you get at the supermarket) and tape it shut tight around the handles and mark what mould it is on the tape.
The handles stick out of the bag, and there is no need to protect them.
I do 2000 bullets at a time and sometimes, like the OP, I won't get back to the mould for a year or more.
They are stored in an unheated (unless being used) but somewhat finished casting and reloading area in the barn (used to be a horse stall).
It is subject to heat, humidity and -20 in the winter.
I have NEVER had a spot of rust.
Cleaning before using is break cleaner, rag and QTips.
I have been doing it this way since I began casting some 40 years ago.
Works for me.

[atr]

I leave the mold full with last casting, then spray outside with WD40 and then wrap it in an old cotton sock. Never had a problem with rust. Some of my molds don't get used for a year or longer.