K/L frame trigger swap?

[Backcut]

Recently acquired my first revolver, a 4" 586-1. I'd been lusting after this model for a few years and it's beautiful.

It's got the target hammer and .5" serrated target trigger, which presents a jagged edge where it tapers down to go up into the frame. My trigger finger does not love this feature for shooting DA. The guy I got this from is a S&W junky and shoots mostly 38 wadcutters in SA sitting in a chair. He is an elderly gentleman and may shoot however he pleases.

Now, I think SA revolvers are cool too and if I'd wanted to shoot SA, I might have looked for a Blackhawk. But I was really hoping to learn to shoot a DA revolver in DA.
I looked around for smooth triggers, Numrich is out of stock. Looked around on Ebay and there are some for sale but it's kinda hard for me to tell if they've already been ground on by someone or not. I can at least see how to identify and avoid the MIM types.

Am I just being a wimp and ought to toughen up and learn to shoot this jagged target trigger DA? Do any of you like this kind of trigger for DA shooting? Should I take a chance on an Ebay trigger and hope it hasn't been already molested? Anything specific I should look for here? The swap ought to be within my capabilities, but I guess the other option is to take it to a gunsmith who likely will have a smooth trigger laying around somewhere.

Thanks all,
Backcut

[contender1]

I would look for another trigger,, buying from a reputable place,, and keep the original trigger to make sure you have the original parts IF you ever sell it,, or your heirs want to sell it.

And heck,, even if you found another target trigger,, you can always modify the spare to fit YOUR desires. Such as sanding off MOST of the serrations,, but leaving a small amount to give you a less slippery trigger in case your hands get sweaty etc. I've seen a few done like that.

[ReloaderFred]

I smoothed and rounded the edges of most of my target triggers years ago on my S&S revolvers, including the ones I carried every day as duty guns. As long as you're careful, you can do a good job and make the trigger a whole lot better feeling than the serrated original. Rounding the edges makes a big difference when shooting double action, too.

I don't worry about resale value on "MY" guns. I bought them for me, so I make them usable for me. After I'm gone, someone else can make them for themselves, but I won't be here to care........

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Mk42gunner]

I'm not sure the triggers interchange from K to L frame.

It used to be standard to remove the grooving on the trigger for easier double action use as a carry gun, usually narrowing the milewide target trigger to more like 3/8" or less. This will remove all case hardening on the trigger face.

About the best advice I can give you about replacing a trigger is to compare it very carefully to the stock one (that works) before you do anything to it.

Robert

[gwpercle]

Triggers should be fitted by someone who has done it a time or two-hundred .
A good gunsmith would be the place to go . Talk to him about your problem and what can be done .
I live in Louisiana ... I would drive over to Clark Custom Guns , a couple hours North of me , and let them do their magic . Select the trigger / hammer and get a sweet action job on it .
A Clark Custom Action Job on a DA S&W is a joy to have ... I've got two done and love both .
I've done my share of stone work and spring swaps but a good professional gunsmith can do the job so much more better .

You can always smooth off all offending edges , grooves and sharp edges , Dremel Tool job
... but it wont be a Clark Custom Action Job .
Gary

[Jtarm]

Triggers should be fitted by someone who has done it a time or two-hundred .
A good gunsmith would be the place to go . Talk to him about your problem and what can be done .
I live in Louisiana ... I would drive over to Clark Custom Guns , a couple hours North of me , and let them do their magic . Select the trigger / hammer and get a sweet action job on it .
A Clark Custom Action Job on a DA S&W is a joy to have ... I've got two done and love both .
I've done my share of stone work and spring swaps but a good professional gunsmith can do the job so much more better .

You can always smooth off all offending edges , grooves and sharp edges , Dremel Tool job
... but it wont be a Clark Custom Action Job .
Gary

I just had a not-so-good experience with them. Besides, their revolver-smith is out for a while.

K/L/N frame triggers are interchangeable (provided they’re roughly the same period). K&L frame hammers interchange as well. N-frame hammers are specific to the frame size.

I’ve got a case-hardened K-frame trigger lying around somewhere. It’s narrow/serrated.

I’ve swapped lots of hammers & triggers over the years and only had one (hammer) that didn’t drop in.

Power Custom makes an in-the-white trigger that runs a bit over $100. I’d give them a call first to make sure it’ll fit your gun. You can always cold-blue it. Might want to make sure they don’t need hardening.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Backcut,
Welcome to the forum.

Don't over think this, if the existing trigger is tuned to the rest of the action, I'd polish it smooth.

[Jtarm]

I’ve shot for a long time with the Jerry Miculek method: pad of finger on trigger and straight back pressure I found it great for accurate DA shooting, especially competition.

Shooting that way, serrations are a great to get your finger positioned consistentlyon the trigger and keep it there through the stoke. That’s why the 625 JM had a serrated trigger.

After practicing that DA technique for about a year, I shot a few rounds DA from my Model 17 and thought “damn, that wide serrated trigger is awesome!”

Lately I’ve started to think that might not be so great for real-world SD and have gone back to joint-on-trigger.

[practical_man]

Backcut

You can swap triggers without much worry. Swapping the hand requires more care, so keep the hand that came in the revolver.

Like others, I smooth and round the edges on my DA revolver triggers. Narrow and no sharp edges are my preference. That’s a lot of material to remove on a target width trigger.

Check gunbroker for parts. You’ll likely find what you need.

[El Bibliotecario]

I've replaced S&W triggers several times. The one problem I had was when the trigger pull became dangerously light. Replacing the original trigger solved the problem.

As stated above, trigger surfaces can be reconfigured even by the mechanically challenged, among whom I count myself.

Years ago I had a miscommunication with the gunsmith and the target trigger which I had hoped to be reduced in width and smoothed and rounded on the surface contacting the trigger finger for double action shooting, came back with a rounded surface but the original width. Despite preferring a standard width trigger, I found this trigger far more comfortable than a factory original target trigger--and it is an alteration easily made by a patient shooter.