Cleaning TC Hawken

[fourarmed]

I just got a .50 TC Hawken. The only muzzleloaders I have used before this were originals, so when I first took this one apart I had a terrible time figuring out how to remove the breech plug for cleaning. I finally faced the fact that there was no breech plug.

Fill me in on the best (or various) ways to clean the bore on this thing.

[twotoescharlie]

removing the breechplug voids the lifetime warranty. (warranty is good wheather new or used)
remove ramrod,push out barrel key, remove barrel, put lower end of barrel in a container of warm water with a little detergent in it. put patch on jag and pump water and soap in the barrel this will remove all fouling , dry and oil, reassemble. check bore every 2-3 days for rust. use wd40.

TTC

[Maven]

Actually there is a breech plug, but it's not easily removed, nor is it necessary to do so in order to clean it. Cleaning is easy:

1) Remove the nipple,wedge and ramrod and gently lift the bbl. out of the tang. If a flintlock, remove the touchhole liner.

2) Fill a plastic bucket with warm soapy water and put the breech end of the bbl. in it. Use patches and perhaps a bore brush to remove all BP fouling. (You may have your own favorite cleaning solution, but if not, 1 part Murphy's Oil Soap + 1 part isopropyl alcohol + 1 part hydrogen peroxide works very well as long as you don't leave it in the bbl. for more than 5 - 10 mins.) Dry the bore and use a patch with your favorite preservative to prevent rust: Ballistol is excellent for this purpose. Btw, I keep the ramrod with a Ballistol soaked patch down the bbl. on all my muzzleloaders.

3) Lock: Use your favorite cleaning solution to clean around the hammer and hammer nose. If it's a flintlock, remove the lock and clean it in warm soapy water, etc. using a toothbrush. Do the same with the nipple and or touchhole liner. You don't have to remove a percussion lock after each use unless you spill solvent in the mortice when attempting to clean it.

4) Assemble in reverse order, but make sure you grease the threads of the nipple or touchhole liner and oil the lock as well.

[725]

+1 on what these two guys said. They covered it very well. One consideration I've always had was the threaded area of the breech plug. Removal is not neccessary, however, I suggest a good penetrating oil, well applied, and left to soak, to limit rusting threads. Maven's practice, as described, should fit the bill. Also, a second or even third cleaning a couple days after the prior cleaning. Supprising what the penetrating oil will lift off if left to work for a few days.

[mooman76]

+1 with what Maven said. They also make some items to help you clean the breech end of the barrel. There is a brass tip that fits on the end of the cleaning rod that is shaped similar to a flat screwdriver and a brush that the bristles stick out the end so it will point toward the breech rather than the barrel rifling.

[northmn]

A shotgun jag will also fit in the breech and help wipe it out. Pipe cleaners can also work under the nipple. I would suggest leaving the breech plug in place. I removed the brech plug from an original shotgun and had to use heat to get it moving. The face was covered with crud, but the threads were in great shape. TC used to sell a fitting that would go around the plug so that you could use a wrench and take off the plug without marring the gun. Another good cleaning solution is antifreeze as in prestone.

Northmn

[Tom W.]

I like to use gauze for the initial cleaning, as it seems to be a bit better than t-shirts, old sheets or flannel at getting out the major stuff. I then use flannel patches to finish cleaning.

[Joe Bob]

I use a 12 gauge bore mop/swab to really get down with it. Got more suction than that 'ol gal from Arkansas.

[rmb721]

I use HOT soapy water. The heat helps with drying the barrel. I use a good coating of Rem oil for storage.

[rick/pa]

T/C's are easy to clean because of the ease with which the barrel can be removed. I build my own with pinned barrels and never remove the barrel for cleaning. I remove the lock, then plug the touch hole with a toothpick ( I shoot flinters). Clean the lock with a toothbrush if you want, I just hold it under the hot water tap, wipe clean, then dry and oil. I then fill the barrel with cool tap water, let it sit for a minute or two then repeat. Wrap a cloth around the muzzle when pouring because its amazing how quick you can fill the barrel and you don't want water slopping over the top and running down the outside of the barrel between the barrel and wood forestock. I then run a wet patch down bore, repeat with a second wet patch, flipping them over and going up and down several times. Then run 2 or 3 dry patches down until the bore is dry. Then one patch with Ballistol (I love that stuff). If the gun is to be put away, I'll run a patch coated with RIG down then repeat with Rig (Rust Inhibiting Grease) after 2 days. I used to use the hot soapy water treatment but found that all the corrosive salts can be dissolved with plain tap water. It seems to me that hot soapy water removes all traces of oil in the bore and can lead to flash rusting from too quick drying. I've been building muzzleloaders for 35 years and shooting them for 45 years. I've never had a problem since I've been using the plain water method. Cleanup takes about 15 or 20 minutes.

[shdwlkr]

I agree with the hot soapy water and mine is just as close to boiling as I can get as it helps to clean the crud out of the barrel and yes it does get hot to the touch. This is the same way I cleaned my m16 in the Army and have never had problems yet.
I only get TC black powder traditional firearms because they are so well made and very easy to clean. Some I have had for almost 30 years so I must be doing something right
I also use dawn dish soap as my soap as it does such a good job of cleaning the barrel and while it is still hot I run a patch soaked in Kroil down the barrel a few times followed by a dry patch and then a patch of Hoppe's.

[frontier gander]

Heres step by step. In your case, you will have to remove the barrel first to remove the lock.
Hope you're not on dial up.

http://thepowerbeltforum.powerguild.net/starting-out-f22/cleaning-must-have-t358.htm