New to .32 S&W, question about dies

[LeadHead72]

So I ran across a deal on an antique S&W top-break .32 and couldn't pass it up. As I accumulate the necessary items for reloading this cartridge the only .32 dies that I currently have is a set of Redding that are made for 32 Long / 32 H&R Mag (and .327 Fed) plus a separate Redding 32 Long taper crimp die. It would seem very doubtful that the .32 S&W brass is long enough for either the seater die or the taper crimp die to provide a crimp but I don't yet have any brass to even try.
Any .32 "Short" reloaders out there with some advice?

[nhyrum]

Lee makes a 32 s&w die set.

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[Mk42gunner]

I'd try what I have before buying more dies. The .32 S&W may not even need crimping, it isn't known for its viscous recoil.

Also if you have anything for the .32 ACP, it might work.

Robert

[LeadHead72]

I'd try what I have before buying more dies. The .32 S&W may not even need crimping, it isn't known for its viscous recoil.

Also if you have anything for the .32 ACP, it might work.

Robert

Here I was worried about wrist injuries with this cartridge but you put my mind at ease! :-P
I did have a set of .32 ACP dies that came with some other reloading stuff but sold them a year or two ago since I had no plans to ever reload/shoot that cartridge. Go figure...

[Green Frog]

With the 32 S&W, your challenge will be getting mouth belling and bullet seating dies and inserts that will reach down far enough to do their job on those runty little cases. Since they are cylindrical, any of the FL sizing and decapping dies work fine.

[corbinace]

I am using a Hornady set for the long and H&R version of this cartridge. I do not remember why, but I am using a Lee universal Belling die.
I can check to see if they reach the Hornady beller tonight if you like.

[LeadHead72]

I am using a Hornady set for the long and H&R version of this cartridge. I do not remember why, but I am using a Lee universal Belling die.
I can check to see if they reach the Hornady beller tonight if you like.

Thank you, that would be nice, although I'm a little more worried about what to use for a seat/crimp die to be honest.

[corbinace]

My Hornady dies work fine for that task.

[LeadHead72]

I just measured my Redding seat/crimp die to determine the distance from the base to the crimp shoulder and it appears to be approximately .775". The brass length spec is only .610", so I guess that answers my question about this die set.

[corbinace]

So, I just got to look at my Hornady dies. The expander/belling die is fixed and too deep to work with the shorties.
Looks like you need a set of both Hornady and Reddings to make it work:roll:

[hoodat]

I've got a set of the Lee dies for my little "Lemmon Squeezer". They work great, but I think it would be cool to have the Tong Tool for this old cartridge.

I'm using wimpy charges of Bullseye in mine. Don't forget that ya might actually be messing with a black powder era pistola.

[LeadHead72]

I'm using wimpy charges of Bullseye in mine. Don't forget that ya might actually be messing with a black powder era pistola.

Yep, I have plenty of modern options for shooting when I want some recoil.

[corbinace]

The hardest part of the wimpy charges is the measuring. I ended up with several sizes of cut down 22rf shells soldered onto short solid copper wires for dippers. Amazingly accurate for uniform weight.

[LeadHead72]

I've heard Bullseye is a good powder choice; is that what you used?

[corbinace]

For me, it is 1.5 gr Unique under a 85 gr boolit.
I wanted a bit more bulk to help with consistency.

[Walks]

1.1 grains of Bullseye under an 75-80gr bullets is what Lyman #2 shows.
It's what I used to load up to shoot My Grandmother's Lemon Squeezer in the side matches.

[mozeppa]

you can also turn a longer crimp die down until the crimp area come into play on the brass.

[Battis]

I use 1.1 grs Bullseye under a .321" roundball sized down to .311. Fun gun to shoot.

[LeadHead72]

1.1 grains of Bullseye under an 75-80gr bullets is what Lyman #2 shows.
It's what I used to load up to shoot My Grandmother's Lemon Squeezer in the side matches.

Thank you, an approximate 1gr charge of Bullseye is what I've been leaning towards.


you can also turn a longer crimp die down until the crimp area come into play on the brass.

Yes, although I don't currently have an extra seat/crimp die to turn down nor the lathe and knowledge to do it properly.

[JoeJames]

Per Hatcher's Textbook of Pistols and Revolvers - he stated 1.4 grains of Bullseye was "the representative factory charge" with an 85 - 88 grain lead bullet.

[LeadHead72]

Per Hatcher's Textbook of Pistols and Revolvers - he stated 1.4 grains of Bullseye was "the representative factory charge" with an 85 - 88 grain lead bullet.

For antique top-breaks? Mine was built in approximately 1894 and I would be just a little nervous with that load.

[JoeJames]

Hatcher's Textbook was published in about 1935 or so. His textbook is the one I reach for when working up a load for 32S&W Long, 38 S&W, etc. He did indicate the velocity was 725 fps. I have used his recommended load for 32S&W Long in a 32 Hand Ejector made in 1914. Might start at 1.1 grains. I have never loaded the 32S&W myself so I am merely re-stating Hatcher.

[LeadHead72]

Thank you!

[LeadHead72]

BTW, I went ahead and bought a correct set of Lee dies from Midway for about $41. They currently have free shipping for orders over $49 so i just added a couple of small items to push it over the top.

[GBertolet]

Be very careful about using smokeless powder in those BP revolvers. The steel in those revolvers is not up to the modern day smokeless powder standards. The unsupported recoil shield can stretch and bend back, and the latch will not hold, and the gun will fly open upon firing. I have had this happen already, with so called safe loads. It was a PITA to resolve the issue. Stick to starting loads, such as 1.0 gr of Bullseye or 231. These old revolvers are fun to shoot, but don't try to step up the power level. 500 fps is a realistic velocity to expect. The factory ammo is carefully loaded to keep pressures low enough to avoid issues with most revolvers in decent shape.

[LeadHead72]

Be very careful about using smokeless powder in those BP revolvers. The steel in those revolvers is not up to the modern day smokeless powder standards. The unsupported recoil shield can stretch and bend back, and the latch will not hold, and the gun will fly open upon firing. I have had this happen already, with so called safe loads. It was a PITA to resolve the issue. Stick to starting loads, such as 1.0 gr of Bullseye or 231. These old revolvers are fun to shoot, but don't try to step up the power level. 500 fps is a realistic velocity to expect. The factory ammo is carefully loaded to keep pressures low enough to avoid issues with most revolvers in decent shape.

No sir, I'm not terribly adventurous about pushing max loads anyway and most certainly want to keep the ammo in this type of gun to a low pressure plinking round. From the information found online it sounded like 1 or 1.1gr of Bullseye would likely be best.