Sticking Lee 6 cavity mold

[BJung]

I own a Lee .401 6 cavity mold, thoroughly cleaned and lubed the pins, and the pin closest to the handle always sticks so I can't open it easily. Does anyone know how to fix this?

[wilecoyote]

I only use Lee molds, including the 6 cav. .401.
I've never had any problems with them_
the 2 screws keeping the halves to the handles must be quite snug_
if the problem arises with cold mold, too:
clean/degrase the sticking pin. paint it with a black or blue marker. open/close the mold more times_
see if it shows some burr, or if the pin and/or the hole can result misaligned from the factory.
dress accordingly with fine wet/dry sanding paper o file_
see if any caked dirt/slag/grease etc. inside the hole, just in case_

[BMW Rider]

Check your mold handle alignment with the handles out of the mold. About half of the Lee handles I've bought in the past few years had tips that were not parallel and needed some careful bending to align them. They also had a few burrs (dressed off with a fine file) that prevented mold halves from floating while mounted on the handles, resulting in binding like you describe.

[243winxb]

The steel alignment pins should now be hot enough to melt the beeswax or Anti-Seize lubricant.

To prepare the lube, slice off a piece about 1/4 inch wide. Cut that piece in half and form it into a football shape. Lightly touch the lube to the steel pins and then run it along both aluminum nibs at the ends of the mold. You want lube on the pin, but do not use so much that it gets on the mold faces.


From Lee- https://support.leeprecision.net/en/knowledgebase

[gwpercle]

I own a Lee .401 6 cavity mold, thoroughly cleaned and lubed the pins, and the pin closest to the handle always sticks so I can't open it easily. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Before you heat the mould , Spray the cavities with a dry lubricant containing Teflon .
I have used Liquid Wrench Dry Lube (LWDL) for years . I had a bottle of LWDL in liquid form that I would shake up and coat the cavities with a Q-Tip , lead doesn't stick to coated surfaces .
The Teflon doesn't contaminate like oil ... It works well on block tops and sprue plates ... They may not make the Liquid form any longer ... I had a spray can and started spraying the mould , inside and out , letting dry and storing . Next casting session a light misting in the cavities and let dry and then go to pre-heat and casting .
I'm sure any brand of "Dry Lube" would work ...look for Teflon in it as the lubericant .
I especially like how lead doesn't stick to treated sprue plate ...on the top or bottom .
For storage ... sprayed moulds show no signs of rusting in Louisiana heat and humidity .
Try it ...works like Voo Doo Magic Charm !
Gary

[dannyd]

If you have a mold that's stick's; this stuff works wonders

https://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/mold-release/

[Springfield]

Get some 2 stroke oil and a q tip and lightly lube the pin.

[rustyshooter]

Get some 2 stroke oil and a q tip and lightly lube the pin.

STP gets the same results used the same way.

[Mk42gunner]

Measure how much the alignment pins protrude. I have had to adjust the pins on one of my six cavity molds.

Robert

[Walter Laich]

If you have a mold that's stick's; this stuff works wonders

https://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/mold-release/


I'm sold on this ▲ too.
there are two types: one requires applying each casting session and other lasts for quite awhile. I got the second an used my PC oven to cure it

makes the bullets drop out like rain

[Petander]

https://hi-performancebulletcoatings.com/mold-release/


I'm sold on this ▲ too.
there are two types: one requires applying each casting session and other lasts for quite awhile. I got the second an used my PC oven to cure it

makes the bullets drop out like rain

A great product,I also use the bonded version. The first thing I tried,it saved an expensive , high quality brass HP mold that unfortunately was a lemon but sending back and forth overseas made no sense. And some Lee molds really got a new life.

It also stops all smearing eg. on top of the mold if you go too hot. Minimizes tinning on brass. Yes it makes a pretty brass mold sooty looking but well...

You don't need to cure it beforehand,just apply,let dry and start casting. Casting heat will cure it.

I thought I'd never use anything like this but boy,was I wrong.

[wilecoyote]

before the use of the mold, welder's anti-spatting spray, just in case

[243winxb]

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/casting-with-lee-molds.4127/full