RCBS Pro Melt power switch woes

[omgb]

I have two Pro Melts with failed power switches. Does anyone know a source for the switches? RCBS says they don't have them. Second, does anyone know the proceedure for opening the case and replacing the switch? I can see the rivets have to be drilled but then what do I reclose the case with?

[Jim22]

Are your machines the original Pro melt or the pro melt 2? The earlier models had a simple rocker switch. The model 2's had electronics.

Jim

[omgb]

The original Pro Melts from the early 90s

[Winger Ed.]

I think they're just 'pop' rivets.
Just get the tool and replace them with new ones when you put it back together.
Any hardware store or home improvement center will have them.

RCBS should have a new switch, or its a common 'off the shelf' one.
If you can't find exactly the right switch, or something that will fit or a 'work around',
you can connect the two wires on it, and just plug it in and unplug it directly.

Another option is to get a PID and wire it in.

[Greg S]

https://www.allelectronics.com/item/lrs-40/120-vac-lighted-rocker-switch-spst/1.html

Drill out the rivets, solder the new switches in and either use pop rivets or the slip on sheet metal nuts.
https://cdn.wuerth.com.mt/0078484_600..jpg

[Jim22]

They seem to have a simple rocker on/off switch with a dial control to set the temp. Fixing the earlier model should be easier if all you're doing is replacing an on/off switch. I work part time in an ACE hardware. We sell replacement switches. I would expect the RCBS switch to be a simple SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw). switch. You will want a switch with a fairly goof amp ratimg. The image I have shows that the machine has a label on the front which says it draws 800 Watts at 120VAC (Volts AC). That means you need to find a switch that is rated for more than ten amps. Twenty would be better and not much more expensive. The switch looks like a weak spot - being made of plastic and placed right next to the heating coils, alloy pot.

I would remove the switch from one of your machines. That type of switch is designed to snap into a precut rectangular hole. You may break the switch getting it out but it is broken anyway. If my suppositions are correct it will come out with two wires attached that lead into the case. If that is so I would replace it with a more durable 20 amp rated SPST Toggle switch. It won't fit into the rectangulaar hole the original mounted in. So consider mounting a small aluminum or steel project box over the original hole. Then mount the new switch in it. Beat to fit paint t match.

298383

Source: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/1590-lb/diecast-aluminum-enclosure-50.0-x-50.0-x-31.0-mm/1.html

Switch:

298384

Source: https://www.allelectronics.com/item/sts-143/spdt-20a-toggle-switch-ul/1.html

Hope this helps.

Jim

[HATCH]

You know you can always hardwire the power switch connections and use a PID

[Lifeshort]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-16-Amp-Single-Pole-Rocker-Switch-GSW-42/206061064
Hardest part is pulling the old switch from the housing. Easy project. pm your phone number if you have questions

[Mal Paso]

A sharp wood chisel will shear the Aluminum Pop Rivets or wedged under the edge will keep them from spinning while you drill. I used #10 Hex Head Sheet Metal Screws to put it back together.

The switch is standard although it uses a square hole. RCBS, Galco, Newark or Digikey should have it.

[Rapier]

I tried repainting mine with green paint, paint/heat, paint just peeled off. I wire brushed on a drill to bare metal and painted it with black charcoal grill paint, it has stayed on there for 20 years.

[jsizemore]

I drilled mine out and put it back together like Mal Paso. It's been a while since I had one open. You'll need to check the cutout opening that the switch snaps into. This should fit and has a good duty life:

https://www.carlingtech.com/rocker-switches-lr-series

I saw a pair of them for sale on ebay for $4 + $4 shipping. I think they are carling LRA 9308 16A 125 volts.

Good Luck.

[Walter Laich]

You know you can always hardwire the power switch connections and use a PID

beat me to this suggestion--did mine and never looked back

[omgb]

Well gentlemen, your response has been nothing less than outstanding! I dug around in my junk box and found two OEM switches. Now to install them. I guess it matters which way is up so I’m guessing the writing on the switch goes to the right, toward the spout. If I’m wrong please chime in. I believe someone said they used #10 sheet metal screws to close the case. Is that correct? RCBS was less than helpful since the pots are so old and are now replaced by two newer iterations. Oh well, 30 years is a very long time. Iguess I can’t really fault them.


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[Winger Ed.]

If they're original switches, or like them, when its on- they light up.

But when in doubt-- write 'on' and 'off' on the side of the case with a sharpie.

[Mal Paso]

I couldn't find the wiring diagram but if I remember right the black wire from the plug goes directly to the thermostat and the switch is between the thermostat and the heating element so the switch light is only on when the heating element is.