10-30 & 5-30 wright oil ?

[Dom]

I have a 1998 Toyota PU , 4 cyl. It uses 10-30 wt oil. My 2003 Toyota car ( V-6 ) calls for 5-30 wt oil. Is there really that much difference? Can I run 10-30 in my later model 2003 Toyota. The PU has 44,000 original miles ( not driven much ), & the 2003 Toyota sedan has 105,000 miles. Both in excellent condition. I have had no problem getting synthetic oil, which has been all that I have used. Just in case oil gets hard to come by, is why I'm asking, from some one more informed on the subject than me.

[sigep1764]

Usually lighter weight oil is used in colder climates. Seeing you live in Montana, stick with the lighter weight in your car. Its what it calls for. The tolerances in the motor, set by the manufacturer, are also a factor. Some folks will say it doesn't matter, put whatever is available in it. I have been a believer in synthetic oil for a long time and use Mobil products. We had a family Suburban with the 5.3 go 250k with no leaks/issues, an SRX 275k no leaks/issues, etc. Use the weight the manual says to use according to the climate you in which you reside

[BJK]

With synthetic you can easily go to a lighter weight oil than what was suggested by the manufacturer. Why? Because it has higher film strength, and the thinner oil will give slightly higher mileage. That's the reason auto manufacturers suggested lighter synthetics, to boost fleet mileage. If you can find a 5w-20 you can use that too.

It's been years since I studied it. 15 years ago I could have given you a detailed answer, but it's gone from the grey matter. But what I gave you is the gist.

I'll take stab at accessing memory... The 5 is the way it acts at start up and the 30 (or 20) is the actual viscosity. I hope I got that right.

Synthetics are remarkable because they don't need to refine out the waxes that thicken in the cold. The base stocks are manufactured to be what the maker wants and they don't put waxes, part of what's in crude oil, into them. BTW, if your engines are in good condition the best oils are not what you find at the auto store. They're made by Amsoil. They will never take an OK sticker (can't remember the actual name, but it's a star emblem) because they exceed specs. An engine that uses oil shouldn't get Amsoil, but if your engine doesn't it's the best you can put in it.

[DDriller]

Dealership told me the 5-30 was needed due to tight tolerances in the engine.

[megasupermagnum]

I would lay money your Toyota pickup manual says something along the lines of 10w30 above freezing temperatures, 5w30 in all climates.

5w30 has superseded 10w30 since at least the mid 80's. There's no good reason to use 10w30 anymore, and it is safe to use 5w30 instead.

[jsizemore]

I was at the NAPA a couple days ago after doing some repairs for the manager. Amsoil rack was right by the door. Bottom of the line oil was a little over $8/quart. Top shelf,literally, was $14.81/quart. Didn't look long enough to check for dust.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

When SYNTHETIC oil is used, there is not much difference in cold weather starting, from 15W-40 to 0W-20. I used Amsoil many years before synthetics became easily available. I would run 5W-30 Synthetic in my gas engines without concern if I couldn't get the oil the manual suggests, or for simple convenience. Cold starting - below 0*F - is one of the major advantages of synthetics along with better mileage. I have run the numbers and the synthetics do pay for the extra cost in gas milage, engine wear, and cold starting ease. If your engine is not 'tight' they will find the leaks and end up on your garage floor. I have been told the 'thinner' oils do carry heat out of the engine better. Most of the synthetics at Walmart run about $5 a quart when you buy the 5 qt containers, 'regular' oils about 18 bucks for 5 qts. Based on my experience over about a million miles since 1986, in very cold winters, I'll go with the synthetics in the 'modern' vehicles (no oil leaks).

[marlin39a]

I bought a new 1998 Toyota Tacoma back in the day. It was spec’d for 5-30. I ran that in Mobil 1 for awhile, but moved it to 10-30, due to the Arizona heat. I ran that truck until it went over 300,000 trouble free miles in 2013. Currently running Mobil 1 0-20 in my Tundra. I’m sticking with it.

[rockrat]

I run 5w-30 in most everything except my 04 Tundra (167K), in the Summer, then I usually go with 5w-40. My Duramax gets 5w-40 synthetic Rotella or Mobil 1. Tractors are usually 1/2 Rotella and half 15-40 dino oil (makes 50/50 blend syn/conv.)

[alamogunr]

Amsoil is just one brand of synthetic oil. There are many reputable, quality synthetics. On our last two Toyota Avalons, I used Schaeffer's synthetic oil. It has a great reputation. I've seen quotes that said Mobil 1 was great in Toyota's. I don't know how they determined that but finally started using it in the second Avalon because Schaeffer's' was difficult to find. I had to buy it from a dealer in farm lubricants in Skullbone, TN(It was close to home).

[gwpercle]

If it's warm / hot weather and your car calls for 10W30 and all you can find is 5W30 ...just add a can of STP Synthetic Oil Treatment to beef-up the lighter weight oil ... it will add some extra protection with the lighter weight oil .

I'm an old school gear head (driver is 1968 Chevelle 327 v-8) and don't understand 0W16 & 0W20 motor oils ... 3-in-1 Oil ?
Or maybe WD40 ?
In August I'll run 20W50 + a can of STP at the drag strip !
Gary

[waksupi]

The definitive place for oil info:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/

[alamogunr]

The definitive place for oil info:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/

That's where my information in post #10 came from.

Just google BITOG

[45DUDE]

I was at the NAPA a couple days ago after doing some repairs for the manager. Amsoil rack was right by the door. Bottom of the line oil was a little over $8/quart. Top shelf,literally, was $14.81/quart. Didn't look long enough to check for dust.

I bought Mobil 1= 10w30 yesterday at $7.99 per quart and Kawasaki 10w40 for $6.99 and 10w30 Pennzoil for 3.99. Oil filters were higher than normal. The wrong oil and filter can make lifters peck on a cold start.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Toyota spec's 5W30 for my 05 Matrix (1.8 ltr)
Toyota spec's 0w20 or 5w20 for my 08 Rav4 (2.4 ltr)...BUT they say 0w20 is best for most situations.

I follow what the manufacturer specs.

[Froogal]

My 2001 Chevy truck with 68,00 miles calls for 5w-30. I've been using 10w-30 in it for MOST of those miles. NO problem

For what it's worth, I use 15w-40 in my old tractors, and have seriously considered using the same in the Chevy truck. I do know people who run the 15w-40 in everything they own with no issues.

Personally, I think the 5w-30 is just too thin and doesn't provide enough protection.

[jonp]

I was at the NAPA a couple days ago after doing some repairs for the manager. Amsoil rack was right by the door. Bottom of the line oil was a little over $8/quart. Top shelf,literally, was $14.81/quart. Didn't look long enough to check for dust.

I just bought 2 jugs of Valvoline high mileage partial syn for less than $18 each at walmart. The Valvoline ranked near the top of oils in testing for protection. All i use now.

The oil weight depends on temp. Id agree with others here that part or full synthetic 5w30 would be the way to go. 5w30 fossil would be my choice unless i lived in the desert during the summer and did heavy towing then maybe 10w30 but probably still not

[fecmech]

All you ever wanted to know about oil and his ratings on various oils and their ability to prevent wear. You need to scroll a long way down to get to the ratings part but there is some very interesting reading on the way. Basically you want the thinnest high quality oil that will allow you to maintain the proper oil pressure. The most wear happens to your engine on start up, thinner oils get to parts quicker.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

[alamogunr]

The 2017 Avalon specs 6.4 qt of 0W-20. Toyota also recommends Toyota Genuine Motor Oil(TGMO on the site linked above). It does have a great reputation. The 2013 Tundra specs 7.9 qt pf 0W-20. I'm guessing that most will just put 8 qts in. The dealer probably sets the pump for 7.9. I'm guessing that the increased crankcase capacity has more to do with engine durability than small variations in oil specs. Two gallons of oil is a lot to be splashing around down there, especially when most pickups are driven like cars. Mine too.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I am sure loving these motor oil threads. Everyone has such differing opinions.
.
.
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alamogunr mentions capacity...
My Toyota Matrix had a manufacturer "bulletin" come out after the engine sludge buildup scandal that Toyota had about 15 years ago. They changed the oil capacity of my car, increased it by 1/2qt (was 3.9qt and now it's 4.4qt). They even offered Matrix 1.8 Ltr engine owners a new dip stick with higher marking. That increased capacity was suppose to eliminate the sludge.


The 2017 Avalon specs 6.4 qt of 0W-20. Toyota also recommends Toyota Genuine Motor Oil(TGMO on the site linked above). It does have a great reputation. The 2013 Tundra specs 7.9 qt pf 0W-20. I'm guessing that most will just put 8 qts in. The dealer probably sets the pump for 7.9. I'm guessing that the increased crankcase capacity has more to do with engine durability than small variations in oil specs. Two gallons of oil is a lot to be splashing around down there, especially when most pickups are driven like cars. Mine too.

[john.k]

I used to be a maintenance mechanic and my truck had a 50 gallon tank of oil .....some of the GMs used to use a gallon of oil a day,that was the limit before new pistons and liners.....Anyhoo,stored up enough oil for my retirement ,and then some....so every car,tractor ,bike,truck ,mower I got runs on GM spec oil ,and always has.......new Ford was supposed to use something dumb like 0W10 ,water is thicker,anyway ,its run on SAE 30 DD ,and always will.

[jonp]

All you ever wanted to know about oil and his ratings on various oils and their ability to prevent wear. You need to scroll a long way down to get to the ratings part but there is some very interesting reading on the way. Basically you want the thinnest high quality oil that will allow you to maintain the proper oil pressure. The most wear happens to your engine on start up, thinner oils get to parts quicker.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

That is where i got my information and weighed cost vs protection. For our use, Valvoline High Mileage part synthetic fits.

[jonp]

The definitive place for oil info:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/

The sight for real info

[GregLaROCHE]

My 2001 Chevy truck with 68,00 miles calls for 5w-30. I've been using 10w-30 in it for MOST of those miles. NO problem

For what it's worth, I use 15w-40 in my old tractors, and have seriously considered using the same in the Chevy truck. I do know people who run the 15w-40 in everything they own with no issues.

Personally, I think the 5w-30 is just too thin and doesn't provide enough protection.

I like to use 20-50 in my old tractors, but it’s getting hard to find these days. In the summer I always used straight 40 weight in my diesel generator during the summer and went to 10-40 in the fall, when morning start temperatures were below freezing. It used to be said that single weight oils didn’t break down as fast as multi viscosity oil.

[fecmech]

Just for all you straight 40wt fans, a bit of information. At 212F operating temp Shell Rotella 40wt viscosity is 13.0 cst
Quaker 5w-40 is 13.3
Pennzoil 5w-40 is 13.3

Both the multi viscosity oils are the same at operating temp as the straight 40 and get to your bearings quicker as the engine warms up. No question in my mind what I would run.

[GregLaROCHE]

Just for all you straight 40wt fans, a bit of information. At 212F operating temp Shell Rotella 40wt viscosity is 13.0 cst
Quaker 5w-40 is 13.3
Pennzoil 5w-40 is 13.3

Both the multi viscosity oils are the same at operating temp as the straight 40 and get to your bearings quicker as the engine warms up. No question in my mind what I would run.

You’re right on that, but are there tests at every hundred hours of use. Years ago when the multi viscosity oils came out. They had tests and the multi viscosity broke down faster. I only use single weight in the summer. When it starts cooling down, I use multi viscosity and add a sump and block heater with a battery blanket when it’s really cold.

[Acorn]

Just a helpful hint to use the mfg. recommended oil for your vehicle. Newer vehicles with VVT(variable valve timing) solenoids are fussy about the viscosity, and can trip a CEL if the wrong weight oil is used.