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Prairie Traveler
03-22-2022, 04:26 AM
I picked up a used LEE 2 cavity mold, at a LGS recently, that had a "too good a price" to pass on. Got it home, and noticed that the halves didn't want to align up when you closed the handles. The hinge area, where the mold halves attach to the handles, is quite loose. If you push the halves together, with your hand, they will line up correctly, but the pins seem to be undersize or something. As this is not a "new mold, I don't believe the factory will be much help. Any thoughts out there???:-? :-?:castmine:

JonB_in_Glencoe
03-22-2022, 09:26 AM
Is this your first Lee 2 cav mold?

The handles are somewhat loosy goosey on new Lee 2 cav molds. They need that somewhat looseness because of overall lack of precise of design and manufacture. My technique is to close the mold halves when in a inverted position, that way the sprue plate aides the alignment. I've read that others will close them with the mold halves resting on a work bench.

If your mold/handles are excessively loose, you can tighten the handle hinge fastener, but don't make it too tight, you want some looseness in it.

centershot
03-22-2022, 01:52 PM
What JonB said! Either flip them over to close (gently). Or, if you want to go right side up, use a 6" piece of 2x4 or a piece of aluminum angle stock to rest the mould blocks on while closing. I went with the aluminum agle, worked great! In either case, be GENTLE! The blocks are loose and don't align well, don't force them, they'll provide good service if you take care of them.

gwpercle
03-22-2022, 04:17 PM
Is this your first Lee 2 cav mold?

The handles are somewhat loosy goosey on new Lee 2 cav molds. They need that somewhat looseness because of overall lack of precise of design and manufacture. My technique is to close the mold halves when in a inverted position, that way the sprue plate aides the alignment. I've read that others will close them with the mold halves resting on a work bench.

If your mold/handles are excessively loose, you can tighten the handle hinge fastener, but don't make it too tight, you want some looseness in it.

I close them with the mould blocks resting on a flat surface ... the rim of the casting pot or any flat surface will do . Tightening the Hinge "fastener" will help but you don't want it too tight ... if your's is a used mould it probably needs some of "The Tighten-Up" on it .
Gary

Bazoo
03-22-2022, 05:04 PM
On the older moulds, they rarely line up without moving the blocks physically in position. I use my mould knocker to gently move the halves in alignment.

Prairie Traveler
03-23-2022, 02:51 AM
This is one of the BEST forums I've been on! You can ask any kind of "low priority" question, and get real thoughtful answers! Thank you all. This is a slightly older LEE mold, I did find the handle hinge nut to be a little loose, and tightened it some, {35+ yr. aircraft mech. calibrated elbows}, the real problem is where the mold halves attach to the handles. I have 2 newer LEE molds that don't have this kind of slop. I wonder if a small piece of shim stock could be inserted somehow in the pivot point...:?::???:

edp2k
03-23-2022, 03:21 AM
Is there room to put in a small "E" clip to take up the space on the loose mold half/handle/pin?
or even a home made E clip made of some small diameter wire.

JonB_in_Glencoe
03-23-2022, 10:29 AM
This is one of the BEST forums I've been on! You can ask any kind of "low priority" question, and get real thoughtful answers! Thank you all. This is a slightly older LEE mold, I did find the handle hinge nut to be a little loose, and tightened it some, {35+ yr. aircraft mech. calibrated elbows}, the real problem is where the mold halves attach to the handles. I have 2 newer LEE molds that don't have this kind of slop. I wonder if a small piece of shim stock could be inserted somehow in the pivot point...:?::???:

OK, how much slop?
I'd expect a 35+ yr. aircraft mech. to give a bit more detailed explanation ;) if there is some concern?
>>> How about some measurements of the newer molds compared to older molds. Is there some visible wear on the older mold from excessive use or abuse?

If the older mold is functional as is, I'd just cast with it, after all it's only a $20 mold. I wouldn't modify it, mostly because I am a bit ham-fisted and it seems the more I fuss with a Lee 2 cav mold, the more likely I'll wreck it. I have numerous expensive molds that are masterpieces of machining, inside and out, and I sure enjoy casting with them. I also have numerous Lee molds, and enjoy casting with them, even though they aren't masterpieces of machining on the outside. Now, if they have issues with the machining of the cavities, well that's another story.

That's my 2¢

Prairie Traveler
03-23-2022, 05:18 PM
OK JonB; feeler gauges, digital calipers, slide rule, protractor, and 30' tape coming out! [amazing what you can find at a Goodwill Store]. Oh...please define "excessive use or abuse; to 3 places please.
More info to follow...:groner::redneck:
{I love this forum}

JonB_in_Glencoe
03-23-2022, 11:59 PM
I'm an Electrician. The arc marks on my screwdriver can attest to that. We don't measure anything to 3 places, but I would judge excessive use or abuse, if the tool is no longer functional, LOL :mrgreen:
Hence my saying, "If the older mold is functional as is, I'd just cast with it"