Lyman 55 binding?

[doulos]

Didn't want to hijack the thread about measures for stick powders. So i created this one.
I have always experienced binding with the Lyman 55 when using finer ball powders. I have had this measure for a long time. I really don't use it for anything but Unique, Universal and Blackhorn 209. Any fine powder like AA9, 2400, AA2 etc goes in the Uniflow. In fact the bulk of my reloading gets done on a RCBS Uniflow. I reload alot for handguns so I use a lot of ball powders. The binding of the Lyman renders it not very versatile for me. So the Unilow gets 90% of the duty.
Is this common with the Lyman 55?

[farmbif]

where is binding, when you rotate the drum or when you slide the slides

[doulos]

where is binding, when you rotate the drum or when you slide the slides

When you rotate the drum.

[Walks]

Disassemble the drum/rotors and clean all and the inside completely.
Reassemble using powdered graphite on all bearing surfaces. Roll the Lever back and forth and screw the slides in/out.
If that doesn't work, I don't know what else to say.
Mine is 45yrs old. Used Bullseye, Win & Hodgdon ball powders and IMR stick powders.
Mine has always worked well, no issues.

[Winger Ed.]

When there is no lubrication, it will bind up/drag like a dry sleeve bearing does over time on small fan motors.

I tend to make a mess with graphite, so I use old school paste car wax on my rotors.
It does well, but you have to re-do it after a couple thousand rotations/dumps.

[15meter]

I've had to clean every powder measure I've owned at one point in their lives, including a Lyman 55. They all seem to get sticky and bind after several thousand throws.

And I've had several Uniflows, Lyman 55's, a couple of Redding 3BR, and a BR-30. And one Hollywood. Currently alternate between the Redding 3BR and the BR-30 depending on size of charge.

Disassembled, wiped down with acetone then car wax on all moving surfaces and it's good for several thousand more throws.

[jmorris]

The 55 also has several leaves, when you set the measure, make the pocket as narrow and deep as you can for the volume you want. This reduces the number of kernels that have to be cut vs opening up one of the thinner leaves all the way across.

[azjohn]

Agree with jmorris. I have two 55's, and I set them the same way.

[doulos]

I have taken it apart to clean it many times. But I havent used graphite on it. I also use the leaves properly just as Jmorris said in his above post. I will try waxing the drum. But I doubt it will make a difference. I'll play around some more.

[Green Frog]

Doulos, the small tubes of powdered graphite sold to lubricate locks do a great job on Lyman rotors. I take mine apart and polish with fine Scotch bright (on rotor and bore of measure both) until clean and shiny then dust the rotor with graphite and reassemble. Problem solved.
I don’t use any kind of waxes or oils on mine to avoid contaminating the powder.

Froggie

[doulos]

I just took it apart for the umpteenth time. I cleaned and waxed it with car wax and buffed it up. Poured some H110 in it and voila... it binds. I will try powdered graphite next. Its a champ with bulky powders. But these small ball powders its always done this. This was the first measure I ever bought probably 35-40 years ago. I only reloaded for .38 and .357 and used Unique almost exclusively. So I really never had a problem with bulky powders... Because I didnt use them early in my reloading stages. As soon as i bought a .44 mag and started using other powders I knew this measure was not ideal. So I bought a Uniflow. And it has done the lion share of work since.
The tolerances in this drum assembly obviously aren't tight enough to use a lot of these ball powders. Its about as useless as a elevator in a outhouse. Ive owned 2 Uniflows and they drop ball powders like a champ.
I really do appreciate everyones input. I mean that too. I really want to use this measure for more than I do now. I'll keep trying.
I have to say all my Lyman stuff has never been as useful to me as my RCBS, Redding and Dillon equipment.

[Three44s]

It just seems you will have to use those Uniflows on the fine grained spherical as you have been all along and the Lyman where it will work (or peddle it with an advisory).

I use my Uniflows until I am running something too coarse (usually extruded powders) then switch to the Lee with the rubber wiper. I have a Lyman that I got cheap a few years ago. I have fooled around with it but not gotten into any real work yet so I am certainly no expert with them but I do not see a win in your situation unfortunately.

Best regards

Three44s

[doulos]

I just took it apart again. Some powder is actually getting between the brass drum and the measure body. It just doesen't have the tolerances for that type of powder.

[Winger Ed.]

I just took it apart again. Some powder is actually getting between the brass drum and the measure body. It just doesen't have the tolerances for that type of powder.

Yeah.... Sounds like you're kicking a dead horse on that one.

[Green Frog]

As I read your post #11 I was beginning to wonder whether it would turn out to be a wear problem. They last a long time, but they aren’t immortal. :sad:

[Three44s]

The OP has owned his “55” for a long time, I believe the measure was built “loose” in the first place.

Three44s

[doulos]

The OP has owned his “55” for a long time, I believe the measure was built “loose” in the first place.

Three44s
I agree. It does not have the use on it that my Uniflows have.

[Rich/WIS]

I used BE in my 55 from the early 70's and don't recall any issues doing so. I load BE now but with an old Forster/Bonanza fixed rotor measure and my 55's are used with Unique, Red Dot and Blue Dot. It is possible there is some wear in the OP's measure, or possibly a mix of tolerances in the original manufacture.

[jmorris]

What is the diameter of the rotor and the ID of the hole in the measure body?

Not that it’s worth fixing but just curious. If you measure yours, I have two 55’s I could check myself.

[doulos]

Thankyou but dont worry about it. I remember actually measuring that once before. Actually just saw the paper I scribbled it on in a reloading notebook. I believe the rotor was .996. And the hole in the body was about .004 larger on one side and different on the other side if I remember. This measure will just be regulated to the duty I had it doing before.

[doulos]

Just measured it again. The measure body hole on one side is .004-5 larger when measuring in line with the body as compared to a horizontal measurement. In other words its sort of oval not round. Its pretty sloppy.

[gwpercle]

The way the 55 is made it will Shear powder granules .
Take it apart and clean it well , polish all the brass parts and lube with graphite or some other DRY lube , not oil .
Since the measure will shear grains it's best to set your cavity to make one deep , narrow cavity as possible ...the narrow cavity eliminates the number of grains that get cut .
When measuring "stick" powders you can feel the handle stop on a grain of powder and a little more pressure it cuts the stick . Operate the handle in a consistent , not gentle , but firm stroke ... Firm stroke up and a Firm stroke down . Use a consistent operation , firmly move the handle , long narrow (deep) cavity and you will have no trouble with stick or flake powder ...even Unique and 4895 ! Limp wristing the handle or moving the handle gently, isn't going to get the job done ...
Work that handle like you mean business !
Gary

[doulos]

I have no issues with those powders. In fact its one of the best measures Ive used with Unique. I set it up exactly that way also. As narrow cavity as possible. It only binds with fine ball powders like H110.

[robg]

only 1 screw to remove to take out rota to clean.i only use the large adjustment slot so you get less crunching .2400 tac blc2 powders meter well in mine .flaky /larger powders unique rl 15 i use a lee ppm.