Best powder measure for stick powders?

[cabezaverde]

I think I have at least one of all the popular brands except Lee. What works best for you guys?

[GregLaROCHE]

It’s hard to get mechanical ones do drop exactly what you want with stick powder each time. It’s best to start low and then trickle up to the weight you want. Otherwise, the electrical ones that weight out each charge look interesting, though I’ve never tried one.

[Outpost75]

When I shot competitive benchrest and NRA highpower I never weighed a powder charge, but used a Culver conversion of the Lyman with pill bottle baffle adapter.

[Electrod47]

I have auto and drum feeders for flake and ball powders. When it comes to stick powders I weigh each one at a time. Or when confident of the load I use a a plain old Lee Dipper of proper size.

[gwpercle]

For me , with powders like IMR3031 and IMR4895 it was with a Lyman 55 .
The trick is make a single , narrow , deep cavity . Start with all three slides lined up ...and move , pull all three back , keeping them in-line to form a single deep cavity , check the weight thrown ... adjust weight by sliding all three slightly forward or back , keeping them in-line .
The idea is to have the smallest surface area in the cavity where grains can get cut by the measure .
It is a time consuming way to adjust for the first time but the brass slides have marks and you can record the settings / powder and hit it again . I have two 55's one set for 4895 rifle loads and the other for 5.0 grs. Unique and I leave them set there . You can reload a lot of handgun calibers with 5.0 grs. Unique .
Gary

[Noah Zark]

Belding and Mull Visible Powder Measure.

Noah

[Gunor]

RCBS Chargemaster…one of newer models.

Push a few numbers and push another button…it dispenses. Drama is over

I used a Lee powder measure and trickled into a 10-10 scale for years - HP and Palma.

[Jedman]

I have had several brands of powder measures over the years and find the cheap Lee plastic measure to drop the most accurate charges. But what I do is once you lift the handle I use my index and middle fingers to do a little dance near the bottom of the hopper for about 6-8 taps to settle the powder as much as it does and then lower the handle to drop the charge and then do it again to get every bit to come out.
If you get a feel for doing this consistently every time it seems to drop stick, ball, flake, powders all about the same within a tenth or better.
It takes a extra 2 seconds or so but I find it’s so close I don’t use a powder trickler anymore.

Jedman

[jetinteriorguy]

Lee Deluxe Perfect Powder Measure.

[TurnipEaterDown]

The Lee (bought 30 years ago, working parts look like a new LEE Perfect Powder measure but the hopper differs) works good for me, only with stick & flake though. Similar to "Jedman" but a little different, I rotate the handle up, tap twice w/ finger, rotate down, tap twice to ensure it clears and again joggle powder in hopper, repeat. Usually very consistent on charge weights.
I find it binds very frequently though with ball powder (especially fine, like AA9 or WC820) and use a Hornady (they now call it a Lock & Load) for ball or spherical powder. Here I just rotate the drum firmly for a good bump to settle the powder and ensure clearing.
The LEE seems to generally sweep the stick powder pretty good and rarely cut. I used on w/ fine stuff like 4227, and really coarse 5010, remember it working OK w/ any stick powder.

[tinsnips]

My Lyman 55 ,RCBS Chargemaster,Hornaday LNL powder measure all work good for me.

[cwtebay]

My RCBS Charge Master handles them all well. I was a dyed in the wool trickler until I got that a few years ago.

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[dale2242]

Since I bought the Hornady Auto Charge that's all I use.

[ascast]

Belding & Mull first, RCBS second, I have Lyman 55;s but use the RCBS first, B&M is first choice. That long lever crunches through log powder like 4064, 4759, 3031

[Shawlerbrook]

I have 55’s and Redding’s, but with stick powders I always drop light and trickle to my target.

[Big Wes]

Harrells precission

[lawdog941]

RCBS Chargemaster Lite. Does what I need it to do. Also rewired it to run off a 12v battery, just in case emergency reloading is necessary. :grin: Then go to Lee Perfect.

[pertnear]

Best powder measure for stick powders?
If we consider only powder measures that use a drum & handle the answer is none. That why the powder makers created "SC" versions of their legendary powders like 4831. But the good news is that tricklers works best with stick powders. As stated above, throw light & trickle-up or invested in an auto-weighing scale.

There are so many new powders made these days you could look at a burning rate chart & find a ball powder close to your favorite load & re-develop your load. Treat it like a fun shooting project! :)

[Half Dog]

I use a RCBS powder dispenser and like the others, I start low and trickle to the desired weight.

[1hole]

Lee Deluxe Perfect Powder Measure.

Ditto.

[DCB]

I have the Lyman gen 6 powder measure. It does a good job with all powders. With its built in tricker for the last couple grains. Its very accurate and consistent.
Clean up can be a little haphazard until you get the hang of it.
only thing so far is you have to keep it warm, it didnt like being cold. and you need to calibrate it before each use. I still use my #55 for light loads. and my AP has a Hornady powder measure. it can test you ability especially if a fly gets in the drum.

[sharps4590]

After 50 years of doing this I've come to the conclusion it's more about technique than anything else. With finer extruded powders like 3031 and 4198 I can pretty much throw on the money with my RCBS rotor measure. Thicker sticks I'll be within 1/4 to 1/2 gr. Even so I'll throw short and trickle up....just in case my technique gets sloppy. My ancient Belding and Mull will show similar results.

[dverna]

My RCBS Charge Master handles them all well. I was a dyed in the wool trickler until I got that a few years ago.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Same here. Not a cheap solution but over the last 20 years or so I have forgotten the cost.

[doulos]

Funny this thread popped up. In a curious mood the other day and decided to compare my RCBS Uniflow to a Lyman 55 with Unique powder.
I tried the Lyman 55 3 different ways. 1. without using the nocker. 2.Using the nocker at the bottom of the down stroke. 3. And also a set of charges using the nocker when the handle was in the up postition. 10 weighed charges for each method.
Hopper a bit over half full with a baffle.
With no nocker used all within .2 of the charge tried which was 7.1. Average 7.09
With the handle in the up position when the nocker was used .3 spread. But only one charge that high. Average 7.12
A .2 spread occurred when using the nocker with the handle in the down position . Average 7.23

The RCBS Uniflow was also use with Unique and a half full hopper and baffle. I tried this at 8.2 because it was already set up for a load I was trying.
For 30 charges I had a spread of .4 grains. But the vast majority were with in .2. There were 2 charges that dropped to 7.9. Also one dropped at 8.5.
I monkeyed around with handle position. With the the powder being dumped on the up stroke and achieved my most consistent results for 10 drops avg of 8.19
I dont know if I can do better than .2 with a powder like Unique with these powder measures. I have always found Unique one of the more difficult powders to be consistent with.

[414gates]

My favourite is the original Lyman 55.

I managed to find one of the first models on eBay years ago. I replaced the hopper with a new, extended version. I have a couple of the newer editions as well.

In order of preference after the Lyman 55, the RCBS Duo.

The Hornady, Redding and newer RCBS are good, and I use them all, but somehow lack the class of the old Lyman 55.

There is no powder measure that can throw repeatable charges of extruded powder, so pick the one you like, and trickle up to the exact weight.

Keep in mind the people who say they never weigh charges are using small quantities of ball powders, which any - even the Lee auto disk - powder dispenser can keep to 0.1 grains consistency.

I was never a fan of any of the auto dispensing trickler models, because they are all finnicky, and need stupid things like a plastic straw to work properly. If I pay that much money for something, it shouldn't need a piece of plastic straw in it anywhere. You can't use it on a desk that vibrates, under a certain kind of light, without it taking two days to warm up just right, and all sorts of other nonsense, when I can drop an extruded powder charge from my Lyman 55 and trickle up in less than 10 seconds. No automatic powder dispenser can give me a powder charge quicker than that.

[doulos]

I always just trickle up also when trying to be exact.

[PhilC]

RCBS Chargemaster 1500 or Uniflow depending on my mood.

[ascast]

Keep in mind the people who say they never weigh charges are using small quantities of ball powders, which any - even the Lee auto disk - powder dispenser can keep to 0.1 grains consistency.

back in comp shooting, I through charges of roughly 45grns of 4895. that is not a small qnty of ball. I would check every 20 or so., never more than 1/4 grn off- which made do difference in my shooting. I've thrown black in 70 plus grn charges by the score and still 1/4 grn on. I suspect very few of us could see a difference in a quarter grain variation in full power rifle loads with stick powders unless evcery thing else is all done first, you need to ask how good is enough

[Kevin Rohrer]

Belding and Mull Visible Powder Measure.

Noah

^^This^^

And the Quick Measure, which is designed to work w/ stick powders.

296540

[farmbif]

the one that works best for me is belding and mull visible powder measure

[gunther]

DCB: was that a small or large rotor Uniflow you were using? The small rotor works best with Unique

[M-Tecs]

^^This^^

And the Quick Measure, which is designed to work w/ stick powders.

296540

These are not cheap. https://www.quick-measure.com/powder-measure-home-page.html

I have always wanted to try one but I don't know anyone that actually owns one. What's your overall thoughts on them?

[Kraschenbirn]

I've gone through a whole bunch of measures since I started reloading but, currently, there are only four at my reloading bench: an old (brass reservoir and brown crackle finish) Redding #3, two Lyman 55s, and a Belding and Mull. For really coarse stick powders, I go to the B&M, throwing low and trickling up to the desired charge weight; for finer-grained stick or ball, I'll go with the Redding 99% of the time. One of the Lyman's is set up for BP with a brass reservoir and drop tube and the other kept around as a back-up.

Bill

[Green Frog]

Any time I try to measure sticks and twigs like the good old IMR 4759, I prefer to use my old Lyman 5 Micrometer or a B&M Visible. It still feels a little graunchie (note technical term) sometimes, but I have to count that as the cost of using that type of powder. If I can stay within a half of a tenth grain, I call it good. :drinks:

If I want my powder to measure like water, I use a ball powder, but that’s not always practical or even possible. :???:

Froggie

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I've got an RCBS Uniflow, an old Herter's Model Perfect (weren't they all), a Lee Perfect and a Lee Deluxe Perfect along with the Auto-Disc, Bonanza Rotor and the Lee Dippers. For Reloder15, Varget, H322 the Lee Perfect holds under .1 grain, for 3031, IMR 4064, H4831 and IMR 4350 the Lee Deluxe holds about .1 grain, the RCBS and Herter's are crunchy or GRAUNCHY (good word) as previously described. I do check weigh the final 50 rounds for hunting season (usually RELODER 15, Varget, Accurate 2015) just because, I no longer weigh charges with 2520, 1680, 2200, or TAC, just a check every 10 rounds, essentially zero variance out of the Lee Perfect. I use the LEE Deluxe for the small charges of Tite-Group, Universal, HP38 with the Lee Auto disc in the Lee Loadmaster and 1000.

[imashooter2]

It is said that the Lee measure is very good with stick powders because of the elastomeric wipe.

[Lefty223]

Casting another vote here for the good ol’ Belding & Mull visible powdah measure!

[Kevin Rohrer]

These are not cheap. https://www.quick-measure.com/powder-measure-home-page.html

I have always wanted to try one but I don't know anyone that actually owns one. What's your overall thoughts on them?

I own four: 1-regular one, one tall one for rifle powders, and two brass ones for BP. I like them a lot as they operate somewhat like a B&M. They do not cut powder and once set, do not deviate. I have lots of their tubes and have them set for individual loads.

297403

[Kevin Rohrer]

For those who like the B&M, here is an extremely rare, product-improved version made by Vega Tools.

297438

[stubshaft]

Harrels or Redding!

[farmerjim]

Ditto.

Ditto #2
If it just absolutely has to be perfect then drop low and trickle.
You will not see any difference at normal hunting ranges.

[Green Frog]

Here is an insert using a Starrett thimble as the adjuster. This is placed into a properly sized (ID & OD) brass tube and used in similar manner to the original drop tube. Along with the Culver modified Lyman 55 and its clones, leading up to the Harrell, this was about as accurate as you could get. It still works great but is a little slower and more clumsy than the Harrell, especially on the bench.

Froggie

[Bmi48219]

I tried the Lyman 55 3 different ways. 1. without using the nocker. 2.Using the nocker at the bottom of the down stroke. 3. And also a set of charges using the nocker when the handle was in the up postition. 10 weighed charges for each method.
Hopper a bit over half full with a baffle.
With no nocker used all within .2 of the charge tried which was 7.1. Average 7.09
With the handle in the up position when the nocker was used .3 spread. But only one charge that high. Average 7.12
A .2 spread occurred when using the nocker with the handle in the down position . Average 7.23.

My theory / SOP for consistency with my Lyman 55 is to double knock with handle in the dump (down) position. This, I believe, will clear any granules clinging to the cylinder and drop tube. I want them to go in the charge I’m dropping, not screwing up the weight / volume of my next load. I also think doing so settles the powder in the hopper to a consistent density for my next rotor fill, assuming I keep the powder level in the hopper relatively constant.
I then knock once with handle in the up (charge) position to get the rotor to fill to a consistent density. With flake powders like Unique, I double knock with handle up.

My logic may be way off but I figure a hopper baffle evens out the downward pressure / relative density of powder in the hopper. Anything I can do to maintain the same relative density of the powder filling the rotor will result in a more consistent charge weight.
With this process I can drop Unique / Herco, 4227 within +/- .1 gr all day. Fine grain Powders like TiteGroup will been even closer to desired weight / volume.

[Bmi48219]

Dump ANY powder in a clear plastic cup to 2/3rd full and weigh it. Rattle the base of that cup on a counter. The powder level will drop as you settle the powder grains down reducing the minute air spaces between them. The weight won’t change but the volume will. Using a knocker or tapping the charge handle at the top / bottom of its travel is the same process.
The weight by volume of any granular substance is dependent on density - how close the granules are to each other.
Getting consistent charge weights from the set volume of your rotor requires the powder in your rotor be at a consistent density.

[Three44s]

I refer to it as settling the charge. I am a confirmed tapper for throwing charges.

I never got up the nerve to go buy one but a few years ago there was a discussion on a gun forum about preventing powder bridging on a progressive loading press and the suggestion came forth that a particular battery powered item sold at “adult toy” stores could be fastened to the side of a powder measure to settle charges.

Three44s

[45_Colt]

Dump ANY powder in a clear plastic cup to 2/3rd full and weigh it. Rattle the base of that cup on a counter. The powder level will drop as you settle the powder grains down reducing the minute air spaces between them. The weight won’t change but the volume will. Using a knocker or tapping the charge handle at the top / bottom of its travel is the same process.
The weight by volume of any granular substance is dependent on density - how close the granules are to each other.
Getting consistent charge weights from the set volume of your rotor requires the powder in your rotor be at a consistent density.

You bring up an interesting point. When volumetric measuring of powers the pack density matters. I used to shoot a lot of 45 ACP. But from time-to-time would get a light load. Rare, but it did occur. Ball (W231) and flake (Bullseye).

Back in the day I recall that pagers had a vibrate mode. Some cell phones do today.

Maybe it would be worthwhile to have one of those little out-of-balance motors attached somewhere on the powder drop mechanism? Have it active all the time, or maybe for a moment when the measure is doing its job?

Just an idea.

45_Colt

[Bmi48219]

I frequently will load several hundred rounds per session and do so for several days running. At the end of each session I dump and brush out my #55 but leave the rotor adjustment locked in. When I fill the powder hopper to start the next session the charge weight will be light for 20 to 30 loads. Before I start charging rounds I tap the side of the powder measure body with a light rawhide mallet several dozen times to ‘settle’ the powder in the hopper. Then test weigh a few charges. If they’re light more taps / knocks are in order. Pretty soon I’m back to dropping the same weight charges as I had the last session. Then I can start loading in earnest, test weighing every fifth charge.
With larger flake powders like Unique I’ve found an additional third knock when rotor is filling (handle up) can increase the charge weight .1 gr.
The above process works well on my SDB measures too. Although getting consistent charge weights (+/- .1 gr.) with even fine grain powders like TiteGroup can be challenging. I’m guessing this results from the multiple bumps, shakes & movements of the progressive process.
The 55 gives me better results with stick powders, but I’ve learned to closely examine a sample of those type powders on a piece of white paper to confirm the sticks are of similar length. An 8 lb jug of 4227 drove me nuts until I saw some sticks were 3 to 5 mm long. That’s the only time I felt like I was grinding coffee in my #55.

[David2011]

If you can find one, the SAECO powder measures are exceptionally consistent with stick powders. Pressman said that it was because the drums were hard chromed and then ground to fit the bore of the housing. All I know is that mine is far more consistent than my RCBS Uniflow. I've also found the Dillon powder measure with a rifle powder bar to be surprisingly consistent for stick powders. I've used it with 3031 and 4895 for loading Garand .30-'06 rounds.

For electronic dispensing, the accuracy of my RCBS Chargemaster is as good as my 5-0-5 balance scale. I can do no better by weighing and trickling up.

[Glwenzl]

Rcbs chargemaster solved all my longer stick powder issues. I am old fashion and prefer a beam scale and I like the results I get from my Hornady PM using ball and flake powders but this chargemaster has been very helpful for stick powders

[Bmi48219]

You bring up an interesting point.Maybe it would be worthwhile to have one of those little out-of-balance motors attached somewhere on the powder drop mechanism? Have it active all the time, or maybe for a moment when the measure is doing its job?45_Colt

I’ve thought about adding a vibrator too. It would have to run the same length of time for every charge in order to be sure the powder was ‘settled’ to the correct density. Maybe activate while your hand is on the handle and shut off when you let go. I imagine some sharp granular powders could compact to the point of not dropping completely if vibrated too long. A few raps is all that’s necessary to get a 5 grain charge of TiteGroup to settle in and completely fill a small measure chamber, while a 50 grain charge of flake powder could do a lot of settling in a larger chamber.
We all recognize the key to consistent charge weights with manual measures and dippers requires we do everything exactly the same for each charge. By rapping on my filled measure a couple dozen times before starting I figure I’ve settled the powder to a certain density. The three times I knock it during each load seems to be enough to maintain that density as the powder drops into the rotor. If the loads I check start getting .1 grain light, an additional knock usually corrects it.