First Savage 99 Takedown

[Kevinakaq]

Just picked up my first takedown model 99. Found it from a reputable dealer I have done business with in past at what I considered a very fair price. I guess now I’m going to need brass/dies in 250-3000 as I have never loaded for this caliber. Thought I would share as I have been patiently looking for the right one in this chambering for a while. Is almost in to good of condition as I like to shoot my guns. They didn’t have it listed as a takedown.

I am a bit giddy and no one else to share with…especially the wife, so I am posting to share with my fellow enablers! Not drilled for scope and told an excellent bore. Made in 1920 from the serial, 2194xx, and I believe it to be a deluxe g. Any additional information or corrections greatly appreciated. Should have in hand on Friday.

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[cwtebay]

That is awesome!!!!
Congratulations on your rifle. I have a weak will for take downs, and another one for awesome 99's.
Betcha that sucker shoots the lights out!!

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[M-Tecs]

250 Savage brass is hard to come by currently. It can be easily formed from 22-250.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/6567871/Resizing_22_250_to_250_Savage_

I have 3 standard 99's. I would like a TD but have not found one I wanted to pull the trigger on.

[380AUTO]

I have a takedown in 30-30, will be the last center fire I ever get rid of nice find.

[Kevinakaq]

That is awesome!!!!
Congratulations on your rifle. I have a weak will for take downs, and another one for awesome 99's.
Betcha that sucker shoots the lights out!!

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I have two Savage 99's already. One in 30wcf and one in 300. First takedown and I think I was lucky no one else snagged this one before me. Looking forward to shooting it!


I have a takedown in 30-30, will be the last center fire I ever get rid of nice find.

Same feelings here, that 30wcf one I have sure has character, but it isn't a takedown.


That is awesome!!!!
Congratulations on your rifle. I have a weak will for take downs, and another one for awesome 99's.
Betcha that sucker shoots the lights out!!

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Really looking forward to testing this cartridge out! Has been on my list for some time..

[cwtebay]

I have an early (1903ish) in 30 WCF, and my Canadian uncle leaves his JM marked 1895 in 303 and later 99 in 308 with me. Very fun rifles to mess with. But alas, no takedown.

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[pietro]

.

You apparently acquired a Model 99-G - which might be verified via looking at the front wall of the receiver, under the forend.

Savage often stamped the model designation there.

My latest Savage is a solid frame .303 Savage Model 1899-H Lightweight from 1914.

https://i.imgur.com/B5v1LLLl.jpg

[NEKVT]

1908 Takedown in 303 Sav with Lyman tang sight. Tried to take it apart once but was tight so didn't force it. No need to take it down - tight is good!

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[pworley1]

Those are great rifles. I form my brass from 308 or most any of the other 308 family I have handy. A form and trim die makes forming brass easy.

[M-Tecs]

Forming 300 Savage from 308 is not a problem. Forming 303 Savage can be done from .220 Swift brass or 30/40 Krag but it is a major undertaking. If 303 Brass was not such a PITA I would have a take down.

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/2511043/m/142105231

[Texas by God]

I had a 1899 takedown .250-3000 with a Weaver J2.5 in Stith mounts that came to me in " rode very hard and put up wet in the Rockies" condition. No matter, it stacked all bullets below 100 grains into small groups. Of all the 1899s and 99s I've owned, that mutt is missed the most. And the .250 Savage is as close to a perfect cartridge as it gets in my opinion.

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[Shawlerbrook]

Love the old Savage 1899’s. We both originated from the same place, Utica, NY. My 1913 vintage 303 is a hoot to shoot. Although not common, if your diligent in your search 250 brass can be found reasonable.

[pietro]

Forming 303 Savage can be done from .220 Swift brass or 30/40 Krag but it is a major undertaking.

If 303 Brass was not such a PITA I would have a take down.





I solved that problem via buying several boxes of Hornady .303 Savage loaded cartridges.

https://www.thrillon.com/tag/hornady-custom-303-savage-150-grain-rnsp

[M-Tecs]

I solve that problem via buying several boxes of Hornady .303 Savage loaded cartridges.

https://www.thrillon.com/tag/hornady-custom-303-savage-150-grain-rnsp

Dang that was not available when I was offered a 303 Savage TD at a reasonable price. Loaded ammo is currently out of stock at Graf's but they do have brass in stock.
https://admin.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/75913

[NEKVT]

I have enough 303 Savage cases that should cover the rest of my needs as it's not shot that often. I played around making a handful from 303 British cases using John Barsness' technique from an old Handloader article but stopped when some more of the Savage became available. Those are close to fitting just have to reduce the web a bit more and I have a bag of new British cases if I ever get that bored. Also use 30-30 cases FL sized for low power cast roundball plinking loads and didn't notice any difference to the Savage cases but wouldn't use them for anything with more zip than that.

[pietro]

Dang that was not available when I was offered a 303 Savage TD at a reasonable price


Actually, that very same thing happened to me about 20 years ago, when I came across a tiny gun shop housed in a steel shipping container in an industrial area (go figure).

The subject was a very well done un-blemished custom Savage 1899-F in .303, complete with factory engraving & a high-grade walnut stock; but I sadly passed because there was zero .303 Savage ammo readily available.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

For 303 Savage brass, Prvi (PPU headstamp) is available from Graf's and Powder Valley, probably others. It is good brass at a reasonable price. I have loaded quite a bit of it (500-700 rounds).

[OverMax]

Have a 30-30 one. (99) Condition is average. Bought it for one reason. 3 Generation owner had the matched 410 barrel and 22 HP barrel as his Granddaddy purchased new.
Having a 250-3000. "Lucky Dog" Those who have one up North of you are seldom willing to sell any 250-3000 cal.

[beltfed]

kevinakaq,
I, too have a deluxe Savage m1899, cal 250-3000, lightweight takedown, 1932 vintage checkered,etc.
Not as nice as yours,and mine sports a vintage Paul Yaeger detachable side scope mount, and a vintage Weaver V7.
Like yours, it is a 14 twist. So, it needs shorter bullets. I worked up a very accurate load for deer with a Hornady 117 grain Round Nose
over a charge of Hodgdons Varget. It will group 1" to sub 1" groups at 100yds with this load. I prefer the heavier bullet over the 87 grain ones. Less bloodshot meat..... My same Varget powder charge under 100 grain spitzers or HPs from Speer also shot very well.
Longer spitzer or boat tail spitzer 117s will likely not shoot well. They are too long for the 14 twist.
Other similar powders that work well in this ctg are IMR 4320, 4895.
Hope this helps you get that very nice 1899G shooting well.
beltfed/arnie

[NuJudge]

I have a take down in .22 Savage High-power. Delightful to shoot. It came with dies to make brass from .30-30 brass, and a mold. It has been taken down too much and is a bit loose.

[Kevinakaq]

The tips and loads are greatly appreciated. I discovered I have some 250 Savage dies…have bullets, and I believe I have some 22-250 brass as well. Would rather find some 250 Savage brass but can make these work in meantime. Will have rifle tomorrow eve and will share some better pics!

Kev


kevinakaq,
I, too have a deluxe Savage m1899, cal 250-3000, lightweight takedown, 1932 vintage checkered,etc.
Not as nice as yours,and mine sports a vintage Paul Yaeger detachable side scope mount, and a vintage Weaver V7.
Like yours, it is a 14 twist. So, it needs shorter bullets. I worked up a very accurate load for deer with a Hornady 117 grain Round Nose
over a charge of Hodgdons Varget. It will group 1" to sub 1" groups at 100yds with this load. I prefer the heavier bullet over the 87 grain ones. Less bloodshot meat..... My same Varget powder charge under 100 grain spitzers or HPs from Speer also shot very well.
Longer spitzer or boat tail spitzer 117s will likely not shoot well. They are too long for the 14 twist.
Other similar powders that work well in this ctg are IMR 4320, 4895.
Hope this helps you get that very nice 1899G shooting well.
beltfed/arnie

[Kevinakaq]

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[Kevinakaq]

I agree, I felt very lucky to stumble across this one. In the middle of an expensive move and couldn’t afford it… Also couldn’t afford to pass it up. Doubt the Mrs. would agree with that thought process…



Have a 30-30 one. (99) Condition is average. Bought it for one reason. 3 Generation owner had the matched 410 barrel and 22 HP barrel as his Granddaddy purchased new.
Having a 250-3000. "Lucky Dog" Those who have one up North of you are seldom willing to sell any 250-3000 cal.

[Kevinakaq]

Some higher resolution pictures I just took. Picked up the rifle a few hours ago and it’s better than expected.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9olkgrwp23ereip/Photo%20Feb%2022%2C%204%2052%2044%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/su8uqbswwozwfe4/Photo%20Feb%2022%2C%204%2052%2048%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/34j7v0lab1mikg7/Photo%20Feb%2022%2C%204%2052%2053%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hkok3vz55lu6lud/Photo%20Feb%2022%2C%204%2053%2015%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8wj0mtds7aupxfy/Photo%20Feb%2022%2C%204%2053%2018%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0u751n2aczixl8n/Photo%20Feb%2022%2C%204%2053%2045%20PM.jpg?dl=0

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[Kevinakaq]

I will note the forearm removes easily but the barrel is not turning. Have applied some kroil and patience…we will see.

[cwtebay]

I will note the forearm removes easily but the barrel is not turning. Have applied some kroil and patience…we will see.Beautiful rifle!!!!
I might recommend placing the action in a vice and placing the barrel under torque with a strap wrench or padded wrench while soaking in Kroil. I don't own one, but helped get a few back to good using that method. I have to mention, the interrupted threads are an incredible engineering thought!
I definitely do not recommend using the forearm for the wrench!!! Apparently, that's a thing.

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[Texas by God]

Just me, but I wouldn’t take it down. Leave it tight. And that is a fine looking rifle!

[Jedman]

Last fall I bought a old M 1899 takedown in 30-30 that’s not been used in a long time. It has a 26” round barrel, pistol grip checkered stock, schnoble forend but is missing the buttplate. The bore looks good but the metal is quite worn and spotted looking not pitted and there are no case colors on the lever.
The barrel has no intentions on coming out so I am leaving it alone ! I am on the fence as to whether I should clean it up and brown all of the metal and refinish the wood and fit a nice recoil pad as the stock is about 3/4” short ? I got it for a really low price and everything works but it may be a 1899 CD model and they are a bit rare and refinishing may be wrong to do ? Being iron sighted and not d&t I don’t want to try to mount a scope on it and my eyesight isn’t good with sights much anymore so it will be a gun that will be for trading down the road.

Jedman

[OverMax]

I've never encountered one that was unable to take apart. I know first hand the 99 seems to tighten-up/its barrel threading upon their firing. They do have a (right hand) barrel threading that I do know for sure. Then again if its not a inconvenience to use a full length gun case. Could leave as is. But as y'll know most men are mechanically incline. "We got to try an see if we can fix it."

[pietro]

I will note the forearm removes easily but the barrel is not turning. Have applied some kroil and patience…we will see.


I may be preaching to the choir, but do you know that the removed forend acts as a barrel wrench ?

If you look inside the forend metal you'll find out that when the open slot is placed onto the barrel stud with the forend crosswise to the barrel, it's will usually give enough leverage to turn the barrrel ( provided the bolt's open, i.e.)

[Kevinakaq]

It is always safe never to assume but I did know the forearm is a tool. Having said that I turned hard enough on the forearm I was afraid to crack the wood. Just got back home today from being gone for a few weeks and will try again tomorrow.
Kev


I may be preaching to the choir, but do you know that the removed forend acts as a barrel wrench ?

If you look inside the forend metal you'll find out that when the open slot is placed onto the barrel stud with the forend crosswise to the barrel, it's will usually give enough leverage to turn the barrrel ( provided the bolt's open, i.e.)

[Kevinakaq]

Just me, but I wouldn’t take it down. Leave it tight. And that is a fine looking rifle!

Sound wisdom…

[Kevinakaq]

I've never encountered one that was unable to take apart. I know first hand the 99 seems to tighten-up/its barrel threading upon their firing. They do have a (right hand) barrel threading that I do know for sure. Then again if its not a inconvenience to use a full length gun case. Could leave as is. But as y'll know most men are mechanically incline. "We got to try an see if we can fix it."

Yeah that fix it bug runs deep….trying to resist…

[missionary5155]

I would get to shooting it first. Accumulated recoil make just vibrate those metal parts to move freely.

[458mag]

I understand you can cut the neck off 40 s&w case and slip it over a 30-30 case and fire form it in a 303 savage to get usable cases. I have fired 30-30, with light charge, in several 303 savages but it really bulges the case out. The 40 cal case band would stop this and is readily available.