School me on 1907 Winchester and making ammo for the .351 caliber.

[koger]

I have a friend who has a nice condition rifle and factory ammo, limited amount. Here are my questions.
1. Is there any brass you can make the .351 from.
2. Can you simply size down .38 or 9mm/.355 slugs to use them in the round.
3. What is the best powder that you guys have used in shooting cast for reliable functioning and accuracy.
4. What primer is best to use, I have all of them, just wanted to know what is the best you have used.
Thanks in advance.

[cwtebay]

I have a friend who has a nice condition rifle and factory ammo, limited amount. Here are my questions.
1. Is there any brass you can make the .351 from.
2. Can you simply size down .38 or 9mm/.355 slugs to use them in the round.
3. What is the best powder that you guys have used in shooting cast for reliable functioning and accuracy.
4. What primer is best to use, I have all of them, just wanted to know what is the best you have used.
Thanks in advance.Starline recently made a run of it. Graf's has it I believe.

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[cwtebay]

I have a friend who has a nice condition rifle and factory ammo, limited amount. Here are my questions.
1. Is there any brass you can make the .351 from.
2. Can you simply size down .38 or 9mm/.355 slugs to use them in the round.
3. What is the best powder that you guys have used in shooting cast for reliable functioning and accuracy.
4. What primer is best to use, I have all of them, just wanted to know what is the best you have used.
Thanks in advance.I hit send too quickly.
Making them from 357 maximum is pretty easy with a little rim turning and adding an extraction groove (which some find unecessary).
I have used sized bullets for it, but recently purchased a mould. There are plated bullets available, and Buffalo Arms generally has some jacketed soft points also.
Small rifle primers are indicated generally.
It's a fun carbine to shoot and load for!

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[M-Tecs]

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?314219-351-wsl

[cwtebay]

Starline recently made a run of it. Graf's has it I believe.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using TapatalkEdit - Graf's has Aussie brass.
Load X is where I got the brass (made by Starline I think?).

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[Battis]

The biggest expense might be the bullets (.352). I bought an Accurate mold for that rifle and the .35WSL.
This is my method:
Cases formed from .357 Magnum cases, no extractor groove, rims turned down to .408” (drill press and file). The .357 mag rims that I reduced varied from .404” to .411” and they all worked.
I use a 9mm crimp die on the case neck for the length of the bullet for good case neck tension (before I load the case).
Expander die (slight)
For powder, I use IMR 4227 – 17 grs. with a small rifle primer. IMR 4227 powder can be compressed.
Seat with .38/.357 seating die
Crimp with .38/.357 seating die

[cwtebay]

The biggest expense might be the bullets (.352). I bought an Accurate mold for that rifle and the .35WSL.
This is my method:
Cases formed from .357 Magnum cases, no extractor groove, rims turned down to .408” (drill press and file). The .357 mag rims that I reduced varied from .404” to .411” and they all worked.
I use a 9mm crimp die on the case neck for the length of the bullet for good case neck tenson (before I load the case).
Expander die (slight)
For powder, I use IMR 4227 – 17 grs. with a small rifle primer. IMR 4227 powder can be compressed.
Seat with .38/.357 seating die
Crimp with .38/.357 seating dieI definitely respect your methodology! I cannot seem to get my 1907 (ca 1907) to reliably extract without the groove addition, and while I have made 35 WSL from 357 magnum, the 351 has been far too short and used 357 Maximum brass. I have decided that it's something I am doing wrong and live with it. Since I was able to purchase correct brass I have relegated the 200 +/- maximum brass to "don't mind if I lose them" status. I had Buffalo Arms make me a 0.352" GC mould recently that I have decided is about perfect. I have used it in the 1907 as well as the 1905 flawlessly. Accuracy has been fantastic, function is at least as good as factory soft points and the brass spread had been like a clock face (if you own a WSL you know).
I have correct dies for 351 WSL, but use 38 Special dies for the 35. I use Lee expander dies and a Lee factory crimp die (351 WSL) for both - 35 gets a boost from a shell holder adapter. I use very similar load data, but have been enjoying the small magnum rifle primers as of late because they're cheap.

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[Battis]

I bought brass formed from .357 Max but the case mouths were getting damaged during ejection. When I use the shorter .357 Mag brass, that does not happen. I've used the above method on two .351s (no extractor groove) and it worked. I got lucky - definitely not skill, at least not at first.
I used to use a .223 die for neck tension, but found that the 9mm crimp die works better.
For the .35 I use .38 SP brass with no extractor groove.
I finally rounded out the collection last year - I found a 1905 .22 auto Self Loader, the first one of the series.