Annealing 9x25 Dillon cases

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

I picked up an Annealeez this week and of course I was trying to figure out how I could make it work to anneal 9x25 Dillon brass. I whipped up a handful of case holders that will do 2 important things. First, it had to make the case longer to get the case neck away from the wheels so I don’t melt them. The Dillon case is only .990” long. The second issue I wanted to address was making sure the case body didn’t get too hot and anneal. I made a handful of these out of aluminum to help pull heat away before it got too far down the case body. I think it worked well. I ran a few in a hand drill in the flame for 5-6 seconds with 750 degree tempilaq inside the case neck and down the case body.

I will be able to use these in the Annealeez because I have a drilled and tapped hole on the bottom of the case holder. The case is held in with an 0-80 socket head cap screw, 3/8” long. It takes a few seconds to secure the case in the holder and a few more seconds to take it out, but it will give me piece of mind that the case isn’t over annealed.

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[ReloaderFred]

Are you having neck splits on the 9x25 Dillon brass? I've been loading this round for about 15 years now and have never found the need to anneal the brass. I've necked down just about every brand of 10mm brass on the market, including nickel plated Federal brass, and none of it splits under normal use. Just curious.

I'm in possession of a lot of the development notes from the Dillon crew during load workups on this caliber, and there's no mention of annealing in them, so I've never done it myself.

Again, just curious.

Fred

Fred

[NSB]

I had one about fifteen years ago that I shot steel plates with. I NEVER annealed any of them and never needed to.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Fred, I have been loading this cartridge for many years but sadly have put maybe 500 rds down range lol. I am literally getting set to run my brass through its second or third reload and have read where guys get split necks after a few loads. Now, they could be setting the shoulder back too far when sizing, or there could be other variables. I guess my main reason for doing this is to form once fired 10mm brass (as it’s cheaper than virgin brass) and then anneal it.

I think Dillon recommends bumping the shoulder back around .005”. I bump mine back between .002-.003”. I never shoot more than 50 at a time so I really have never had to worry about a super dirty chamber and the pistol not going into battery.

But to answer your question, no I have not had issues with split necks. I’m just preparing lol. Do you shoot high volume with this cartridge? How many reloads are you getting approximately?

I’m hoping that guys that shoot this cartridge in high volume can chime in.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

This could also be used for 22 TCM. I ordered some 450 degree tempilaq to put on the case body to see exactly how hot it’s getting. I’m hoping it’s a safe way to anneal short cases on annealing machines.

[ReloaderFred]

I don't shoot my 9x25 Dillon guns nearly as much as I used to. I have two of them, a Witness and a 1911, and I set my sizing die to set the shoulder back .002". I've got some brass that I know I've got 6 or 7 loads on, and still haven't had any split. Any brass will wear out, I just haven't found out what the wear limit for this round is, yet. However, like I mentioned, they don't get shot as much as they used to. I load 35 different calibers, so some calibers hardly ever get shot, while others get shot regularly.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Ok Fred thanks for the input!

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

750 and 450 Tempilaq
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450 tempilaq melted only where the flame came in direct contact with it.
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