Heating the Lubesizer

[alamogunr]

Over the years I've read of members here using a standard clothes iron to heat the lubesizer. I've got a RCBS LAM2 and have used a light bulb if I needed heat. I found a cheap iron($3) at Goodwill and decided to try it. I had a length of copper bar 3/8" tk and about 4" wide. After drilling it for mounting bolts, I assembled it to the bench and set the iron on it. I thought I should start at the lowest heat setting. I should have stayed close by so I could see how warm(hot) it was getting. Liquid lube started seeping out without pressure. Oddly enough most of the liquid lube coming out looked like the dregs of some green RCBS lube that I had been trying to use up. I had gotten to the point where most of the lube on bullets was NRA Alox lube. Just a little green in the groove.

Didn't really need that detail. What I'm hoping is that someone can tell be the best way to control the heat of the iron. I guess I can figure out by trial and error some plan for turning the iron on and off. to control the heat to the sizer. I'm hoping I don't have to do all over what someone else has already figured out. ??

[HATCH]

PID
On my star sizer I use a PID with a ring terminal on a mounting bolt. You just need a reference temp not the exact temp. Just something that is repeatable.

[Beagle333]

A PID is great for controlling heat in many things. I have separate ones now for my mold oven, my casting pot, my PC oven, and for my lubesizer. (They're pretty easy to build, too)

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I found a cheap iron($3) at Goodwill and decided to try it.

Are you sure the control on the iron is working?
It's used at Goodwill, maybe the control is corroded or welded closed, so it's on full blast at any setting?

I use a small travel Iron and it needs to be somewhere between Min and Max...definitely not on lowest setting.
I use Carnuba Red in that lubesizer with heater.

[dimaprok]

I made my home made heater that cost me about $1 and it works great. In the heart of it is heating element I picked up from ebay for about a dollar each, this was before trade Wars with China so I'm sure the prices went up now. I actually picked up three heaters in varying degrees of power. I think it was 3 watt, 5 and 10, it runs of 12v and I have a bunch of extra power adapters but you can pick one up from thrift store or ebay cheap.

I had to mill the end if my RCBS and Lyman lube sizer base flat on the milling machine to get flat surface to get good contact and heat transfer. It was especially bad on my Lyman 450, I couldn't even attach lube sizer flat on my desk! You could flatten it also with belt / disk sender.

The power consumption is really low about same as charging your cell phone. 12V 1Amp powe adapter is plenty, I added the power connector and some heat shrink tubing you could also add inline switch like the one used for UFO lights. If you get those variable voltage adapters I'm pretty sure you can control the amount of heat output.

A piece of aluminum plate I had is about 3/8 thick 3.9" long and 3.3" wide, dimensions are not critical. I just used sharpie to draw outline and mill the cut out but you could do it with two pieces with one cut out with hacksaw and file and glue them together after.

Right now mine gets a little too warm and lube starts to ooze out if you leave it pressurised. I will be playing with variable voltage / power.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220119/363511a6997a632518d5c58e45ccf811.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220119/c7c3d40206849c5fbcf6d5ad551cf3d3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220119/10f189c200c3c8d91f5b87009d27aa1e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220119/241676b479b96896f3dc26bb03afee45.jpg

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[BattleRife]

My Lyman 4500 was picked up at auction for $35, but it lacked the low power Lyman heater that is made for it.

A standard 100W 3/8x2" cartridge heater was procured from Amazon for a few bucks, and I use a PID to control it. The end of a thermcouple is simply pinched between the lubrisizer and the board it is bolted to.

https://i.postimg.cc/FsLLhmKy/z-lubrisizer.jpg

[trapper9260]

Here is a link to the one I use https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!l=LY&i=2745885

[zarrinvz24]

I have the factory one in a Lyman 4500. I plug it in and wait 20 mins, at which time I unplug it and start sizing boolits. Once the lube starts cooling to the point that the ratchet takes more effort to turn, I plug it back in for 5-7 minutes while I continue to size/lube boolits. Then I unplug it and the process starts over again.

[Martin Luber]

I have Star units both with and without factory heaters. Since I'm using NRA50-50, l get started by playing a propane torch flame over the die cavity and lower reservoir tube. No waiting.

[DAVIDMAGNUM]

On two of my Lyman/Ideal 45 presses I use a light dimmer to control the heater. It is not exact like my PID for the casting furnace but it is most definitely an adjustable control that works.

[alamogunr]

On two of my Lyman/Ideal 45 presses I use a light dimmer to control the heater. It is not exact like my PID for the casting furnace but it is most definitely an adjustable control that works.

This sounds like the cheapest way to lower the temp of the iron. I'm definitely not going to invest $75 in a Lyman heater. Worst case scenario, I just turn up the heat in the shop. It really doesn't take much to make NRA lube flow. I've go an extra PID that I could take from one of the casting pots but would rather not.

[gwpercle]

I solved all these problems the low tech way ... soft lube !!!
It's been working well for 50 years now .
Soft lube works better than hard lube ... Lithium Grease(1 part)-Beeswax(3 parts) works best of all .

[454PB]

Got an old coffee maker?

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?5615-Star-lubrisizer-Heater-on-the-Cheap-(like-free)&highlight=

[gnappi]

Jeez, you all reminded me I need to find my Star heater and do something with it.

For me PC made it obsolete

[John Guedry]

My wife's hair drier works fine. Once the lube starts I may have to "hit it" once or twice.

[DocSavage]

I have a heat gun from Wagner that's adjustable for heat I have one that I use to thaw frozen pipes. I would guess you could use the same to warm a lube/sizer.

[Old Caster]

I have commercial heaters for my units but if you don't want to spend the money, I wonder if an infrared bulb might work. You would want one that is flat in the front like a spotlight and you could vary how close and how far it was the best for you. They distribute heat much better than a regular light.

[Baltimoreed]

Built this rig to heat both my sizers.

[Astocks2622]

I drilled a small hole in my Lyman 45 base for the tip of a soldering iron to fit into. used a cheap amazon soldering iron with dial-controlled heat output.

[JH3855]

Probably the cheapest and most efficient way to regulate the precise flow of hard lubes is to purchase a reptile lamp from any pet store. They often come with a large alligator clip arrangement that allows for precise positioning of the lamp to adjust the heat. Some models feature a built in temperature control. The only drawback? You may have to keep your python or gecko near the clothes dryer vent during the time you are lubing bullets.

[alamogunr]

Probably the cheapest and most efficient way to regulate the precise flow of hard lubes is to purchase a reptile lamp from any pet store. They often come with a large alligator clip arrangement that allows for precise positioning of the lamp to adjust the heat. Some models feature a built in temperature control. The only drawback? You may have to keep your python or gecko near the clothes dryer vent during the time you are lubing bullets.

If you live in Florida and have a python, just take it to the Everglades and release it. One more won't make much difference. Then you can lube at your leisure.

[imashooter2]

I just use the temperature setting on the iron, and if things start getting too hot, I pick it up and set it on its foot for a few minutes. Low/warm usually does the job.

Money will buy you any number of better heating options. You want cheap, you got to pay attention.

[alamogunr]

The iron I got at GoodWill was not the best choice. The lowest setting gets too hot too quick. The first time I used it, lube started oozing out around the die. Now I don't start size/lube until I guess that it is warm enough(about 2-3 min.) then I set the iron aside on its' base. The copper plate holds enough heat to last for about a 30 minute session.

Can't argue with the price though.

[David2011]

I use a Goodwill iron, too. For a low-tech solution to the problem replace your copper with a 1/8"x6"x12" piece of aluminum. Copper is a very good heat conductor and your piece is pretty small. I set the iron on its lowest setting and regulate the temperature by the distance between the iron and the lube sizer; usually at the back of the aluminum plate once it has warmed up.

[imashooter2]

I use a Goodwill iron, too. For a low-tech solution to the problem replace your copper with a 1/8"x6"x12" piece of aluminum. Copper is a very good heat conductor and your piece is pretty small. I set the iron on its lowest setting and regulate the temperature by the distance between the iron and the lube sizer; usually at the back of the aluminum plate once it has warmed up.

This is a good point. My mount is a piece of .135 steel that I have screwed to my bench and then drilled and tapped to mount a variety of equipment. I set the iron back several inches from the base of the press. This is probably a lot less “efficient” at conducting heat than the OP's copper.

And I still have to watch it. I use my thumb to gauge when to lift the iron by touching the lube reservoir. It isn’t long before you develop the touch.

[alamogunr]

I don't have enough room for a larger piece of metal(aluminum) and really don't want a hot piece of aluminum spread out on either side of the iron. Also it would defeat the goal of keeping it as cheap as possible. I already had a long piece of scrap copper I grabbed out of the scrap truck before I retired.

imashooter2 suggested what is the best way for me to use what I have. Just have to educate my thumb.

[JH3855]

If you live in Florida and have a python, just take it to the Everglades and release it. One more won't make much difference. Then you can lube at your leisure.

This sounded like a great idea...until I realized 'snake oil' is the secret ingredient in my prize winning lube. Such a disaster in Florida!

[Jim22]

I, too, use a light dimmer to control the temp of my Lyman made heater. Without the dimmer it puts out too much heat. The heater was made for the 450 sizer and I have the 45 so the factory bolt holes don't line up. Rather than re-drilling and tapping the heater I elongated one of the holes in the lube sizer. I didn't want to accidently drill into a heating element. Works fine now. Without it I couldn't get Carnauba Red to flow. Now I can.

Jim

[Hootmix]

I use a hairdryer, set on low blow aim at the bottom of my 4500, and it helps to keep my hands warm., naw' just lay it on its side.

coffee's ready, Hootmix.

[Land Owner]

I've got a RCBS LAM2 and have used a light bulb if I needed heat.

You went and complicated the process. It ain't "elegant". It's cheap, easy, and gets the job done in an uncomplicated way. Ten minutes (say) of lamp heat to start, depending on wattage. Periodically, two minutes, three maybe, to warm the Sizer as the lube viscosity decreases. You get in a rhythm. Or, you can consume funds in the pursuit of CONTROL.

I can't wrap my head around the HEAT SINK effect, using an iron on a metal plate, that wastes energy heating the top of the bench along with the Sizer's metal parts, though some of the machined part heater photos above are quite elegant. I possess no such machining skills.

[missionary5155]

Probably 40 years ago purchased a magnetic engine block heater at a hardware we had nearby. Heats the Lyman and takes car of the whatever vehicle needs started on those below 10 mornings when I certainly will not be pulling an orange arm down.
Used to see them in yard sales but have not been to one in at least 5 years now.
My heat control is pull the plug.

[Muddydogs]

This works great for controlling the heat on a lube sizer or turning a freezer into a fridge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[beagle]

And then there's the cheap, redneck way.

Orygun Mark built me a nice sizer heater years ago. Works good yet. Before that I used a 3# coffee can with a 75 watt light bulb in it with a side cut out for a heater. Worked good and heated fairly quick. Had a switch that I used to cut it off when it got to running good. On when it started to cool. Be sure to back off on the pressure when heating as the Lyman 450s have been known to expand and crack while heating./beagle

[imashooter2]

You went and complicated the process. It ain't "elegant". It's cheap, easy, and gets the job done in an uncomplicated way. Ten minutes (say) of lamp heat to start, depending on wattage. Periodically, two minutes, three maybe, to warm the Sizer as the lube viscosity decreases. You get in a rhythm. Or, you can consume funds in the pursuit of CONTROL.

I can't wrap my head around the HEAT SINK effect, using an iron on a metal plate, that wastes energy heating the top of the bench along with the Sizer's metal parts, though some of the machined part heater photos above are quite elegant. I possess no such machining skills.

The light bulb is fine for heating a lube sizer, but don’t pretend it is somehow efficient. Metal is a great conductor of heat. Air is not. And wood bench tops don’t heat much either.

[slim1836]

298382

Slim

[remy3424]

The clothes irons have a learning curve. The dimmer switch might be a good way to try to tame the temp down...like that idea.

[Land Owner]

Whether 40W or 75W, a bare light bulb under a towel is only slower imparting heat to the lube sizer's metal body compared to a 300W to 1500W (range) electric iron at its 300W setting. Which is "more efficient"? IDK.

[murf205]

298401298402298403
Here is the rig I put together. It is a 1/4" dia. 100 watt cartridge heater, plenty by the way, and it slides into the hole I drilled into the base of the 3/8" thick aluminum plate. The wire is in 1/2" pvc pipe and the dimmer is in the electrical box at the other end of the pipe. After the first trial run to get the feel for the temp, I marked the dimmer dial with a sharpie. Makes Carnauba Red a piece of cake to use. I already had the 4" wide piece of aluminum but I've got less than $15 in the rest of it.

[Green Frog]

Well, I read all of this, thought about the cost, not just in cash, but in time and aggravation, then this “learning curve” of which you speak. My new RCBS LAM Heater just got here from Midway at a cost of less than $80 delivered. Works for me… YMMV! 8-)