Need Help With A Stuck Case!

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I was sizing '06 cases a few days ago when one went in really tight. I pulled it out, thinking it didn't get properly lubed. I sprayed it again (Alcohol/Lanolin) and pushed it back into the sizer. It still went in tight, when I tried to remove it the shellholder pulled the rim off! "No worries!" I say to myself and got out the RCBS stuck case remover. Drill, tap, attach the puller - No Go! I pulled hard on that Allen wrench and even with a "cheater" extension on it, it wouldn't budge. At this point I was afraid I'd strip the threads in the case head. I'll add that I was a machinist fpr 22 years so D & T is nothing new to me, nor are stubborn fittings.

Plan B - Penetrating Oil
I put the die into a ziplock baggie and added enough PB Blaster to submerge the die. I put it under a heat lamp and let it sit overnight. The next day I tried to remove the case again. No good. I tried this three days in a row. Yesterday I used Kroil instead of Blaster, still no-go. Bear in mind, when I do this I have the die screwed into my press upside down with a vise-grip on the knurling of the die and the case puller on the top. I can put all kinds of torque on the puller, but nothing works. I've also tried tapping the case out with a steel rod down through the top of the die, nope.

Plan C - Freeze It and Torch It
Right now, the die is sitting on the top shelf of my freezer. Later today, I'll pull it out and use my propane torch to try to expand the die body a couple thousandth's and see if the case will release.

The lesson here is, when you use this case lube, you need to let the alcohol evaporate before you try to size the case. This lube has worked well for me in the past, this time I forgot that detail. My Bad!

If anyone has other ideas, I'm listening!

[Polymath]

I have had a few like that too. I think it makes a metallurgical bond to the die.
Took the propane torch and heated the die and then a rod and hammer. I switched to Lemon Pledge for case lube and that solve all but a few stubborn ones (223 rem). Those needed Lee sizing wax on a Q-tip on the inside of the neck.

[WRideout]

I had an (unlubed) 30-06 case stuck in my sizing die once. After all my attempts, I finally plugged the neck, then pured molten lead to fill the case. After that I hammered it out with a steel rod. Still use the sizer die today.

Wayne

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I had an (unlubed) 30-06 case stuck in my sizing die once. After all my attempts, I finally plugged the neck, then pured molten lead to fill the case. After that I hammered it out with a steel rod. Still use the sizer die today.

Wayne

Wow! Unlubed and you still got it out!! I may have to try that if all else fails!

[country gent]

Another little trick that helps is to soak in a copper remover for a few days put the disassembled die in so solvent can work from both ends. I would try the die cold from the freezer first since the brass will shrink more than the die body will it may be enough.

I have used shooter choice copper remover for this dissolves the case with out harming the die

[cwtebay]

Yep I have done it also!
Get your rod ready for tapping the case out and I find a dead blow hammer to work the best for me. Get a light directed inside of the case.
I put the die in a vice, heat it with a heat gun until quite warm, then spray an inverted can of compressed air into the case - using the tube extension and directed to the shoulder of the case until frost can be seen Immediately start tapping - hasn't failed me yet, although it may take a couple of attempts.


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[BigAlofPa.]

I use the RCBS stuck case tool.

[Outer Rondacker]

I had the same thing happen on a much larger round. I was able to grab the brass with needle nose pliers and spin it. Not spin in a circle but to put a dent in one side like when you twist a spring lip in place. This made the case a bit smaller and then I used a small punch to help it alone. Good luck.

[centershot]

I use the RCBS stuck case tool.

As stated in the OP, that was the first thing I tried! :holysheep

[centershot]

Thanks to all for your ideas, it's good to learn some techniques that have been tried and proven. I'll get back at it....

[BigAlofPa.]

Ops missed the part he tried the RCBS tool.

[littlejack]

I've had expierience in this area. Twice, I've stuck two .223 cases. I tried my RCBS stuck case remover that has worked very reliably in the past with larger cases. But in these two instances, no go. I drill out the tapped hole to the largest size without touching the inside of the sizer die. I had bought a set of needle files (Central Forge) in the past. I picked the files that had teeth to the edges or corners i.e. half round, elipticle? etc. Then I started filing a groove from inside of the drilled out case head to the outside. You have to continously clean out the file to keep it from filling with brass. It takes a while, and you can tell when when the file cuts through the case head wall. No harm to your die, "IF YOU STOP FILING". The case head will relieve itself when the slot is cut through. Now, just take your vice-grips, latch onto the case head and gently twist back and forth. This technique should work on most all size cases. You just need to make sure to not mangal the outer case head and not have any meat to clamp onto with the vice-grips.

[brass410]

dont think home freezer will get it cold enough,maybe. I usually use a freezing spray made by crc, I use it a lot in the shop for testing sensors and fitting bearings. Works really well and its reasonbly cheap and availible at most automotive stores ie pep boys auto value who ever you like, be sure to wear skin protection. Also if theres a auto service shop nearby that does A/C work, they use nitrogen for testing for A/C leaks (at least a lot do) ask if one of the techs will spray your die down while you hold (pliers would be a good thing to have with you as well as eye gear/ shield better) then give it a abrupt tap on hard surface it'll probably shoot out like a proverbial goose dung.

[Jeff Michel]

I chuck the die in a lathe, turn off the base and grind a very small version of a cape chisel and holding the die vertical, base up in my vice, split the offending case. Peels out like foil once you get it started. Good luck.

[rockrat]

Drill a 5/16" hole in the case head, take out the decapping rod, hold the die in a vise and tap the hole for a 3/8" bolt. Install bolt and put the die in a vise vertically and lightly close the jaws, keeping the die lock ring in place to keep the die from slipping out of the vise.
Grab a heavyish claw hammer and long 1/4" punch and run it in the die and give it a few whacks with the hammer. Not too hard as the case should come out easily with just 2 or 3 whacks

[littlejack]

Lots and lots of good methods. :2 drunk buddies:These are going into the "back of my mind archives". :guntootsmiley:

[Minerat]

Get a shorter allen head screw or a stack of washers to go between the screw and the top of the puller die. I had a similar problem with a 223 case and found the screw was bottoming on the deprimer rod before it could start extracting the stuck case. The shorter screw fixed that.

[Bird]

Warm the die up to a couple of hundred degrees, then give the inside of the cartridge case a blast of freon. The case will tap out easily.

[centershot]

FINALLY! I finally got the bugger out of that die! Oy! I tried the hot/cold remedies, to no avail. I tried several different penetrating oils, the last of which was the CRC Freeze Spray. The "freezing" didn't work, so I left it soaking for four days. I made up my mind that it was gonna' come out with my RCBS stuck case remover or I was gonna' strip the threads in the case head trying. After four days in the freeze spray I put an 8" cheater on the end of the Allen wrench and started turning....It was TIGHT! But, it finally came out! HOO-RAY! I never thought I'd be able to put that much torque on brass threads, but lemme' tell ya', cartridge brass is tough stuff!

[414gates]

A little late to the party, but good for future.

https://ysterhout.net/docs/stuck_case/index.html

This was made for .223 brass, and has worked on all sizes since.

[gwpercle]

A stuck case will teach you a LOT !
My #1 take away is if they start going in HARD - STOP ...somethings wrong and if they GO IN hard ...they Coming Out Even Harder .
#2 Let any /all alcohol based case lube dry ... Even Lee case lube mixed with alcohol and sprayed on ... You have to let the alcohol DRY Completely .
#3 the messiest and best , hard to size case lube is STP Oil Treatment ...it's greasy and messy and must be removed but that stuff is Slick and will get cases sized when nothing else will .
Gary

[dale2242]

My sizing lube is homemade.
1/2 STP and 1/2 light oil.
Messy but slick.
I have been using it for 50+ years and have never stuck a case.
If it starts going hard into a sizing die something is wrong.
Stop immediately.

[Jimmynostars]

Pull the guts out of your die, find a cap screw that will fit down it . Beat it twice, turn it beat it twice, if the case moves continue until out

[gwpercle]

My sizing lube is homemade.
1/2 STP and 1/2 light oil.
Messy but slick.
I have been using it for 50+ years and have never stuck a case.
If it starts going hard into a sizing die something is wrong.
Stop immediately.

LIKE !!!

Dale2242 ,
Awesome Idea - Any particular "Light Oil " , give me a "for example" ... I always thought straight STP was a little too sticky and thick ...Molasses in winter ... cutting it a little would make it easier to apply ... what have you found works well .
Gary

[todd9.3x57]

A little late to the party, but good for future.

https://ysterhout.net/docs/stuck_case/index.html

This was made for .223 brass, and has worked on all sizes since.


i came up with that sorta idea, but i didn't use the tee. good idea!!!!!!

[Tim357]

A stuck case will teach you a LOT !

#2 Let any /all alcohol based case lube dry ... Even Lee case lube mixed with alcohol and sprayed on ... You have to let the alcohol DRY Completely .

Gary

This right here. I almost gave up using alcohol/lanolin and went back to straight lanolin before I started to let ALL the alcohol dry.

[centershot]

This right here. I almost gave up using alcohol/lanolin and went back to straight lanolin before I started to let ALL the alcohol dry.

Yessir, that's what started the problem, I didn't! Lesson learned.....

[Hahndorf1874]

I use castor oil for case lube ,works a treat no cases stuck so far and it’s cheap!! Mal.

[David2011]

Congrats on your success. 100% of my stuck cases were the result of not waiting long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. I think I learned to be more patient after the third one. I was processing a LOT of brass at the time. Fortunately they were all .223 and the stuck case extractor worked every time.

[lightman]

I have removed a few stuck cases for others where I stripped the 1/4 inch threads and drilled and tapped the case for the next size (5/16). Stuck cases can put a damper on an evenings reloading plans!

[Hossfly]

Been using the bootleg Dillon lube for a few years and learned early on to be more patient about letting the alcohol evaporate. Just takes one time and you will learn to be patient.

Now when i lube a batch, i place in ziplock bag and spray a few squirts and roll around, then pour out and let dry a while like 1 hr. Before processing. Works well.

[farmbif]

if all else fails
frame the die
hang it up over your press as a reminder
place order for imperial wax and a new die

[KCSO]

I have had them so tight Ihad to set them up on the lathe and bore them out. Good Job.

[1hole]

* Resizer dies are usually so deeply case hardened that drill bits, taps and even files can't scratch them.

* Soaking a stuck case in penetrating oil to loosen it is usually hopeless. When a steel die and brass case are totally jammed together there is no way anything is going to get into that.

* How effective freezing a stuck case out of a die may be depends on how badly stuck the case is. At some point, freezing to absolute zero (- 460 F) would do nothing helpful.

* Be aware of what's happening. If it's HARD to get a case stuck in we'll probably have to work even harder to get it out.

* Use one of the wax case lubes (Imperial/Unique) and forget cleaning it off. Waxes are totally harmless and resist surface oxidation.

[Baltimoreed]

Congrats to the op. As the secretary of the interior told Lone Watie, ‘Endeavor to persevere’. Knock on wood I’ve never had one that my homemade case remover couldn’t pull out.

[rbuck351]

Before I learned not to size my 7mm mag cases to much and let the head space on the shoulder not the belt, I had 2 cases that the case head pulled off during sizing. Try pulling those with a RCBS type stuck case puller. I removed the expander rod, cleaned the inside of the case with steel wool, smeared in a bit of solder paste, plugged the neck with TP and filled the case with melted lead. After it cooled I put the die in my press and used a punch in the neck expander hole and beat the case out with a 3# hammer. A bit crude but it worked.

[centershot]

if all else fails
frame the die
hang it up over your press as a reminder
place order for imperial wax and a new die

LOL! :bigsmyl2:

[centershot]

Before I learned not to size my 7mm mag cases to much and let the head space on the shoulder not the belt, I had 2 cases that the case head pulled off during sizing. Try pulling those with a RCBS type stuck case puller. I removed the expander rod, cleaned the inside of the case with steel wool, smeared in a bit of solder paste, plugged the neck with TP and filled the case with melted lead. After it cooled I put the die in my press and used a punch in the neck expander hole and beat the case out with a 3# hammer. A bit crude but it worked.

Yessir! That thought crossed my mind more than once, I'm appy it didn't come to that!

[Three44s]

I use the Hornady Unique lube in a tub.

It goes on with your fingers so it is a slow process compared to spraying on a lube. The upside is you have good control on having complete coverage and there is no “dry off” requirement.

I have been doing a lot of 223 brass processing from all sorts of sources lately (beats shooting up components) and even with the above lube/process every now and then a really oversized case shows up.

After reading this thread I might just not size those potential offenders as you can feel the added pressure before the damage is done!

Three44s

[cwtebay]

One thing that has not been mentioned is dissolution. IF the die is stainless steel, nitric acid will corrode brass to the point of dissolution and leave the die unaffected. I'm not sure how it will effect carbide type dies? I also don't know how well it would work on the mass involved, but if the head and most of the web is cut off it should be possible. I do know the gas given off is pretty nasty! My plumber brother gave me that idea on a stuck case a few years ago. Apparently he used that method to remove frozen brass fittings from stainless steel digestion tanks in a biosecurity lab with good results.


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[1hole]

.... plugged the neck with TP and filled the case with melted lead. After it cooled I put the die in my press and used a punch in the neck expander hole and beat the case out with a 3# hammer. A bit crude but it worked.

Use steel wool, solder and a 3# hammer to deal with a head separation; THAT is a great idea!

I stuck hundreds of cases years ago when I was experimenting with commercial case lubes and various substitutes but I never had one fail to pull out with a "bolt in the butt" puller. IF I ever get one that won't pull normally I'm gonna try your method!

:)