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cheese1566
01-17-2009, 01:01 PM
Has anybody built their own case annealing machine?
I see Cabin Tree has one on his link posted at the bottom.

I found one on the web (won't mention where...) that is close to $450 in price. I was looking to use that basic concept. I think I could I have about $75 in parts for misc hardware, a motor, power supply, and electronic variable speed control for it. Everything else would be bits and pieces from the shop and two torches I already have.

I would need to drill 20 5/8" holes in a 10" saw blade. Can this be done with a standard HSS drill bit and a drill press?

Scrounger
01-17-2009, 01:25 PM
Nothing new here, see links below. All of them work on the same principle, just use different sizes and materials. I remember going to a "gun place" in West Covina, I believe, about 30 years ago to look at and use his annealing machine, which worked the same way these do. This fellow, can't remember his name, but he was big in the tools and reloading equipment stuff for Pistol silhouette which was just taking off then. He sold the annealing machines and had a couple set up in his shop so you could bring your brass in and anneal it. He charged so much per case or so much per hour, don't remember that. He set it up, adjusted the flame, and you fed the cases into the holes in the wheel. I think you could run five or six hundred per hour through it. Great idea on a rental basis, I think he sold them for something under $200 which was more than $200 is now, so not too practical for one guy to buy one and use it four or five hours a year... check out the links below.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/frankford-arsenal-super-annealing-machine-368761.html

http://www.castingstuff.com/case_annealing.htm

http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php?cid=177

http://calivc.com/forums/Automatic-case-annealer-t186.html

http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/04/07/annealing-restoring-life-to-your-brass/

cbrick
01-18-2009, 08:17 AM
The guy you’re referring to is Bartlett. I had one of his annealing machines but it was so poorly made it was barely useable and I eventually tossed it getting zero support from Bartlett (typical). It wasn't his design but rather stolen from someone else and a really cheap knock-off made just like his "Iron Sight Gunworks" rear sight was a cheaply made knock-off of the Bo-Mar sight.

Jim Rock of RPM (Rock Pistol Mfg and the XL pistol) bought Iron Sight from Bartlett and made significant improvements. This sight is now standard on all XL pistols and is the silhouette sight on all Freedom Arms revolvers. Ken Light of Ken Light Mfg bought the annealing machine and totally revamped it and it is now an incredibly well built high quality machine, the BC-1000. Ken Light Mfg (http://www.kenlightmfg.com/)

http://www.lasc.us/AnnealerBC1000-9.jpg

The photo in the link you posted (calivc.com) was stolen from either my web site or Ken’s web sight. It’s a photo I took of my machine and put on both my site and Ken’s site.

The article on case annealing on both my site Cartridge Case Annealing (http://www.lasc.us/CartridgeCaseAnnealing.htm) and the 6mmBR web site was written by Ken Light and Jim Harris and contains much valuable information and should be read (at least twice) by anyone interested in annealing.

My own experience with annealing is that it takes practice and patience. Save all your old junk brass and practice on it before attempting to anneal your good brass. Annealing does work but brass can not only be ruined but actually made extremely dangerous if it’s done incorrectly.

Rick

Scrounger
01-18-2009, 10:35 AM
That's right, Jerry Bartlett, I remember now.

Jon K
01-18-2009, 11:00 AM
Rick,

You are right about the Barlett knock off, but...........did Ken Light buy the BC-1000 from Brian? BC = Brian Crawford, and last I heard Brian has set up shop in Arizona and machining and making parts for Kenny. As far as revamped, the only change I see in the BC-1000 is the square base.
The machine is no doubt the best around, I have serial #6, and have only replace drive o-rings and abrasive under the shell plate.
I have used mine for countless widcats and bottlenecks, and now for the last few years BP cases. Pricey but worth every penny. I knnow guys that have bought knock off and replaced motors, yes multiple over the years, and other parts, so spent ???

Jon

cbrick
01-19-2009, 07:02 AM
Hi Jon,

Your right, I didn't explain it very well. Bartlett was making the cheap knock-offs of both the sight and the annealer and Jim Rock bought Iron Sight from him. Ken Light bought the annealer from Brian not Bartlett. Brian's machine wasn't available for a time and Bartlett was making the cheap knock-off, by revamped I meant as compared to what Bartlett was making.

Sorry for the confusion.

Rick

Just Duke
11-03-2010, 07:39 AM
:holysheep

beanflip
11-03-2010, 09:08 AM
check this out




I have been looking for a day or so and have taken alot of knowledge off this sight. I thought I would try to make my first post worth while.

I made a home made case feeder for my 650 I thought I would share it here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7ULK7lVYJ8
I hope this is something helpful.

jmorris
11-03-2010, 10:08 AM
The one I built is up at the top of this forum as a sticky. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=48611 There is a link to step by step photos of the final assembly in the first post.

I still have some of the "blades" left from the last batch. They are CNC laser cut from 1/8" cold rolled steel and scale trace drawings of the top plate, drive wheel and torch arms. PM me if you are interested

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/DSC01810.jpg

jmorris
11-03-2010, 10:11 AM
Click on these photos for short videos.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/th_nottoohot.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/?action=view&current=nottoohot.flv)

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/th_an1.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/?action=view&current=an1.mp4)

ambergrifleman
02-03-2011, 09:16 PM
SWeeT !!!!!!!!!

howlnmad
02-03-2011, 11:05 PM
I've looked at both those designs. The only thing that concerns me is, they have no way of determining the temp of the necks. I don't agree with guys that say to wait until they turn red or time them with a pyrometer. You over heat the necks and you have garbage that can hurt someone. Not enough heat and you pretty much just waste propane. I'll keep doing mine with a holder from Lee, a cordless screwdriver, some 700° Tempilaque and a propane torch.

howlnmad

Skipper488
02-04-2011, 01:10 AM
Been toying with the idea of making one using induction heating.

jmorris
02-04-2011, 11:14 AM
I've looked at both those designs. The only thing that concerns me is, they have no way of determining the temp of the necks.

Sure you do, you just change the drive motor speed and it changes the dwell time of the case in the flames.

howlnmad
02-04-2011, 12:15 PM
Sure you do, you just change the drive motor speed and it changes the dwell time of the case in the flames.

jmorris,

Sorry, I wasn't aware of that part and I meant no offense to anyone. I guess one could experiment with some scrap brass and temp paint to get it the speed to anneal within 50° or so. Is this understanding correct?

howlnmad

thehouseproduct
02-04-2011, 12:58 PM
Been toying with the idea of making one using induction heating.
I have this strange dream where I have an old single stage that I run the case up, it triggers a switch, induction heater anneals the brass, and then it goes in a water bucket. If the die didn't transfer too much heat, it could even be a progressive set up.

jmorris
02-04-2011, 01:09 PM
jmorris,

Sorry, I wasn't aware of that part and I meant no offense to anyone. I guess one could experiment with some scrap brass and temp paint to get it the speed to anneal within 50° or so. Is this understanding correct?


None taken at all, The motor I used is a DC motor I just used a dash light dimmer switch out of an old RX-7 to control the speed. As long as you don't "over do it" you can sneak up on the correct annealing temp. After the first pass, if it's not annealed correctly, after it completely cools, just run it again. Click on the photos above for the short videos, it's pretty simple but takes all of the guess work and human error out of the process.

howlnmad
02-05-2011, 02:01 PM
jmorris,

Can this machine be hand fed by someone to cheap to buy a case feeder?


howlnmad

jmorris
02-05-2011, 10:02 PM
I haven't received any videos back from folks that have done the case feed part. It was hand built so I don't have any drawings of that part, just the photos. Here is a video one fellow shooter sent me after he was finished. He used the "blade" and scale drawings of the top plate, drive wheel (he used a simple arm) and torch arms.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/th_borganneal.jpg (http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/annealer/?action=view&current=borganneal.mp4)