Brownells vs Pilkington Rust Blue Solution question

[Patrick L]

Anyone ever use this? I notice the Pilkington is like $50 for a 4 oz. bottle, this is $14 for the same size bottle.

Anyone ever use it? Or do you get what you pay for?

[Hick]

I use Birchwood "Perma Blue". Inexpensive and works very well. BUT-- I'm not blueing an entire firearm--I use it for small parts and touch-up.

[LAGS]

I found that Pilkington was the best, ( and most expensive ) that I have used.
The others work really well , and you can afford to do more barrels for that price.
Right now I am using Doc Hawkens Slow Rust blue on my muzzleloader barrels.
It gives a great finish.
And too is affordable.
Last two times I went to buy slow bluing stuff , I could not find Pilkingtons stuff.

[Patrick L]

[smilie=b:

[stubshaft]

I have used Pilkingtons, but have no experience with Brownells. In my estimation, Pilkingtons is worth every penny. It gives fantastic results and I have never had an issue using it. Since I began using it, I have never considered another solution.

[405grain]

I use Mark Lee Plum Brown (express brown #2). Clean the part that you want to rust blue to remove any grease or oils. Heat the part just enough that the plum brown sizzles as it's applied with a brush. Completely paint the part, and re-heat as you go if necessary. The metal only needs to be hot enough for the plum brown to sizzle as applied, but no hotter. After the browning solutuion has been applied the part will appear to be thoroughly rusted. Now boil water in a tank (or pan - depending on the size of the part) The water doesn't need to be distilled: tap water will do fine. After the water is boiling suspend the "rusted" part in the boiling water. Within seconds you will see the chemical reaction begin to take place as the boiling water converts the red rust into black. Let the part boil for 15 to 20 minutes so that the reaction will be complete. Once the reaction has converted all the red rust to black I toss in a tablespoon of baking soda to neutralize any acids from the solution. Pull the part out of the tank and quickly rinse with clean water.

There is no need to plug a barrel when using this process. Rust is when iron oxidizes and boiling water has the oxygen driven out of it. When the part is removed from the boiling water it is hot, and the water will evaporate off of it so quickly that no rust will have time to form. Once the part has cooled buff it with a carding wheel (a carding wheel is 100% better than a brush). The carding wheel will expose the lustrous rust blued surface. After buffing the part apply a light coat of oil. I have used this "fast rust blue" process on several barrels and actions and it works great. Once, just to see if I could pull it off, I rust blued a 6.5x55 barrel from start to finish in 1 hour. Mark Lee makes a "express blue #1" but this isn't what you want. The express blue makes a surface where the blue isn't as deep and rich, and there's a slight bronze tint to the blue. Use the express brown #2 and the surface will be black as a cat.

I've tried doing traditional rust bluing and it's a pain in the keester. Why take weeks to do it the old fashioned way when you can have better results in one morning? Try this process on a small part, or even just a piece of clean scrap steel, I think you'll be impressed at how easy it is, and how good the parts come out.

[22cf45]

I've used lots of Pilkingtons and Brownells equivalent, couldn't tell much difference. They were both rather unforgiving. Then I discovered Laurel Mountain's version and haven't used anything else since.
Phil

[waksupi]

I use Mark Lee Plum Brown (express brown #2). Clean the part that you want to rust blue to remove any grease or oils. Heat the part just enough that the plum brown sizzles as it's applied with a brush. Completely paint the part, and re-heat as you go if necessary. The metal only needs to be hot enough for the plum brown to sizzle as applied, but no hotter. After the browning solutuion has been applied the part will appear to be thoroughly rusted. Now boil water in a tank (or pan - depending on the size of the part) The water doesn't need to be distilled: tap water will do fine. After the water is boiling suspend the "rusted" part in the boiling water. Within seconds you will see the chemical reaction begin to take place as the boiling water converts the red rust into black. Let the part boil for 15 to 20 minutes so that the reaction will be complete. Once the reaction has converted all the red rust to black I toss in a tablespoon of baking soda to neutralize any acids from the solution. Pull the part out of the tank and quickly rinse with clean water.

There is no need to plug a barrel when using this process. Rust is when iron oxidizes and boiling water has the oxygen driven out of it. When the part is removed from the boiling water it is hot, and the water will evaporate off of it so quickly that no rust will have time to form. Once the part has cooled buff it with a carding wheel (a carding wheel is 100% better than a brush). The carding wheel will expose the lustrous rust blued surface. After buffing the part apply a light coat of oil. I have used this "fast rust blue" process on several barrels and actions and it works great. Once, just to see if I could pull it off, I rust blued a 6.5x55 barrel from start to finish in 1 hour. Mark Lee makes a "express blue #1" but this isn't what you want. The express blue makes a surface where the blue isn't as deep and rich, and there's a slight bronze tint to the blue. Use the express brown #2 and the surface will be black as a cat.

I've tried doing traditional rust bluing and it's a pain in the keester. Why take weeks to do it the old fashioned way when you can have better results in one morning? Try this process on a small part, or even just a piece of clean scrap steel, I think you'll be impressed at how easy it is, and how good the parts come out.

I have found that Plum Brown is not very durable.

[LAGS]

I have also found that Quick Rust Bluing is not very durable.
Like using Vinegar ,Water and Hydrogen Peroxide sprayed on the metal.
That also includes Plum Browning.
It only effects a very thin layer of the metal.
If you want a finish that lasts and doesn't rust or wear off quickly ,then slow blue is your second best choice.
Parkerizing is the best , but not so good looking.
Slow Rust is durable and lasts without rusting.
Hot Blue Looks the best if the metal is prepped correctly, but is a little more receptable to rust than slow bluing.
But if you want a Quick Finish that looks good for a while , just spray paint your parts.