Powder coating

[JodyPenny]

Is it really as easy as it looks on YouTube? I’ve been thinking of getting setup to do this and just wondering? Also does it work as good as they say? No lead left in the barrel.
What speed can you push before you have problems?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Carrier]

It really isn’t very hard to do. Just use a good powder.

[PJEagle]

I don't usually watch YouTube videos because so many of them are poorly done or give eroneous information, but I will be glad to relate my experience of the past 4 years. I would say that it is very easy, if you follow the instructions. I haven't had any leading or needed any gas checks for hot .357 and .460 magnum loads with my cast boolits.

1. Buy your first batch of powder from Smoke in the Vendor Sponsor's forum.
2. (This is the way that works for me.) Place about 200 black airsoft BB's in a #5 recycle container. ( I use a 3# cottage cheese container.)
3. Add no more than a tablespoon of powder to the container.
4. I like to add around 50 boolits, depending on the size.
5. Put the lid on the container and make sure it is fully seated.
6. Swirl the container in a circular motion for a minute.
7. Remove each boolit from the container with tweezers or wear nitrill gloves and stand it on a silicone baking sheet. (Forget using parchment paper or non-stick aluminum foil.)
8. It's a good idea to tap each boolit on the side of the container to remove the excess powder.
9. Preheat your toaster oven to 425 degrees and then put the baking sheet with the boolits in the over for 25 minutes.
10. Size the boolits after they are cool and enjoy the results of your efforts.

That system works great for me, but there are many other ways that work for others.

[cwlongshot]

Largely yes. Minimal items needed many ya likely already have.

I have many videos on how I do it I answer all comments & am easy to talk to as well as easy to get in contact with.

Happy ta help. Merry Christmas!

CW

[dverna]

I do not PC but there is a lot of information on this site and YES...it is easy to do. People I trust on this site have had great success, so I know it works.

If I was starting to cast, I would go with PC for pistol bullets and use a Lee APP for sizing. Will be the least expensive way to go and more than adequate.

If I wanted the most accurate cast rifle bullets, I would not use PC. I base that on two factors. First, one of the members who I trust has not been able to achieve the same accuracy with PC'ed bullets vs lubed. Plus, the last time I looked, Cast Bullet competitors were still using lubes...and they are accuracy nuts.

The only concern I have about PC'ing is the "fumes" from cooking off. Those who have done it can comment. The way I am set up, sizing and lubing in my basement works best for me.

It is a simple and effective system. Plus, not expensive to try...so little downside. Go for it!

[GregLaROCHE]

It was easy enough to do when I started. The only problem I have is standing up boolits less than .30 cal, especially those designed for gas checks. I never tried batch processing with a pile of boolits, but it’s no problem to stand up my .45 cal. for my 45/70 that I do a lot of plinking with.

The most important thing I believe is to keep your powder free of humidity. I knew I was coating in a very humid environment, so I was extra cautious and haven’t had any problems. Squeeze all the air out of the plastic bags it comes in after taking some out and double bag it. Don’t ever put used powder back in with new.

[BJung]

I powder coat. I found my toaster oven on garbage day when I was driving through a neighborhood where someone was throwing one out. I managed to buy another for $5 for a buddy. Use non-stick aluminum for the tray and draw a trough or crease along the bottom so the bullets don't roll against one another. I use tweetzers to handle the PC bullets. Bake the bullets at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. I drop mines in water. I resize later.

You need to find #5 plastic recycle plastic tubs. Maybe a neighbor that likes parmesan will be tossing some. You don't need to buy plastic bbs. styrofoam cup pieces work to add with the pc to build static charge. A tablespoon of pc for a small tub works. Shake the tub of bullets for 3min. Pour the bullets and pc over a screen that's onto a creased newspaper. Then pour your paint back into the tub. Use your tweezers to pick out the styrofoam and put that in the tub too. Then pour the bullets onto the tray. You can stand the bullets up too.

[Soundguy]

I don't usually watch YouTube videos because so many of them are poorly done or give eroneous information, but I will be glad to relate my experience of the past 4 years. I would say that it is very easy, if you follow the instructions. I haven't had any leading or needed any gas checks for hot .357 and .460 magnum loads with my cast boolits.

1. Buy your first batch of powder from Smoke in the Vendor Sponsor's forum.
2. (This is the way that works for me.) Place about 200 black airsoft BB's in a #5 recycle container. ( I use a 3# cottage cheese container.)
3. Add no more than a tablespoon of powder to the container.
4. I like to add around 50 boolits, depending on the size.
5. Put the lid on the container and make sure it is fully seated.
6. Swirl the container in a circular motion for a minute.
7. Remove each boolit from the container with tweezers or wear nitrill gloves and stand it on a silicone baking sheet. (Forget using parchment paper or non-stick aluminum foil.)
8. It's a good idea to tap each boolit on the side of the container to remove the excess powder.
9. Preheat your toaster oven to 425 degrees and then put the baking sheet with the boolits in the over for 25 minutes.
10. Size the boolits after they are cool and enjoy the results of your efforts.

That system works great for me, but there are many other ways that work for others.

Man that is alot of hand holding and steps per bullet/batch.... glad I gave up PC and do conventional lube sizing. faster.. less steps.. no lead in barrel....

[dverna]

Man that is alot of hand holding and steps per bullet/batch.... glad I gave up PC and do conventional lube sizing. faster.. less steps.. no lead in barrel....

Some folks get anal about stuff. A good example are folks who deprime as a separate operation when loading pistol rounds on a progressive....or have to have clean primer pockets...or load .38's on a single stage...or...have to trickle charge every round...or...well it goes on and on.

PC'ing in bulk is fine for pistol bullets. No need to stand them up unless looks are important. Lot's of guys do it that way and are fine. But anal is anal and for some it matters.

But I am with you. Traditional lubes work for my needs, and nothing is faster than a Star. I have owned a Star for almost 50 years. But not everyone shoots enough or has the funds for a Star. PC has its place.... just not at my place. Still, IMO, a decent way for a new caster to get into the game. Too many people are doing it to dismiss it.

One size does not fit all.

[bangerjim]

I've been doin' it since 2013 and have not cleaned Pb out of any of my many barrels since.

I started out on here with a bunch of other fine people experimenting and developing the shake-n-bake technique. It has proven very successful for many users. I switched to using ESPC guns 3 years ago for better, more uniform coats without any of the quirks associated with a plastic tub and bbs . . . (refer to the VERY long step list above in post #8). ESPC is simply point and shoot with the electrostatic gun. Then bake. Perfect coats every time regardless of humidity or temp outside. And the guns allow me to coat many tools and other things impossible to shake in a tiny little tub.

Try it, practice it, and you should be quite happy with results. Very low entry cost to play with the process. Just do not bake in your kitchen oven!

Good luck and welcome to the world of powder coating.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

PC is expensive and messy. I got burnt plastic fouling in my barrel. No thanks, I'll stick with traditional lube.

[cwlongshot]

PC is expensive and messy. I got burnt plastic fouling in my barrel. No thanks, I'll stick with traditional lube.


Traditional lube is messy, smoky and can also leave leading in barrel... SO glad I powder Coat. ;)

CW

[Soundguy]

PC is expensive and messy. I got burnt plastic fouling in my barrel. No thanks, I'll stick with traditional lube.

You are one of a few people that i have been hearing about that have seen pc residue in their barrel. Since regular lube and size yields no lead in my BBL... I just can't take the chance with pc. Tried it..way too much work for no better results than lubed lead.

[Golfswithwolves]

t any rate, I will continue using my lube/sizer macine.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Traditional lube is messy, smoky and can also leave leading in barrel... SO glad I powder Coat. ;)

CW

Now CW, I am a fan of yours. Traditional lube doesn't leave leading in a barrel, hard alloy undersized boolits is the primary cause of that...and I know that you know that. The rest of what you said is true. All of what I said was true. Newbies who are looking for info, need to hear from both sides of the coin.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Thing about using conventional lube is that if it works well, you know you have done everything right. I just started casting and loading 45-70 and so far it has gone very well. No leading and good 50 yd. accuracy with homemade lube.

[dverna]

Not sure if mentioned, but if you go with PC, buy powder from Smokes. He is a vendor on this site and I have never seen a negative report of the powders he sells.

[414gates]

It is not difficult to powder coat, it may involve a bit of trial and error. There are many who will share pointers if things aren't working for you.

All other casting rules still apply.

Powder coat is not a magic fix for undersize bullets, wrong lead hardness or barrel pitting.

You must still make sure the bullets are the correct size for the bore, that the lead hardness is suitable for the velocity, and if the barrel is pitted, you should stick to shooting full metal jacket because no coating will prevent leading of a pitted barrel.

[GregLaROCHE]

I think part of the answer on whether or not to PC depends on if you already have a lube-sizer and have found a recipe or commercial lube that works well for you. If you are all set up and experienced lubing, there less of a reason to try powder coating. However, for someone starting out, I think PCing can be easier and less expensive, especially if you find an oven at a thrift store.

When I started casting I would pan lube. I then started using Lee Liquid Alox and thought it was a lot easier. Then PC started to become popular and after I started using it, I was hooked. If I were to start shooting skinny boolits again, I would use LLA. I still lube a fair amount these days, especially for my BP rounds. Now I’m doing mostly 45 cal. shooting or muzzle loading.

[bangerjim]

OP.........................isn't nice to have options.


This fight for and against PC has been here since day ONE and will continue forever. :killingpc

[cwlongshot]

Now CW, I am a fan of yours. Traditional lube doesn't leave leading in a barrel, hard alloy undersized boolits is the primary cause of that...and I know that you know that. The rest of what you said is true. All of what I said was true. Newbies who are looking for info, need to hear from both sides of the coin.

But I have fired countless numbers of my powder coated bullets threw who knows how many barrels. ONE showed some evidence of fouling. Not actual leading but some fouling. But same load. Exact same load was fired thru three different firearms with zero fouling.
So its particular firearm related MUCH like how some firearms copper foul when others dont.

My point was GENERALIZED comments like both of ours are NOT COMPLETELY TRUE. They have a modicum of truth surrounded by conjecture and false truths meant to cloud actual truths.

What I am saying is, If ya dont like it, dont do it. Its still a free country! ;)

CW

CW

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

But I have fired countless numbers of my powder coated bullets threw who knows how many barrels. ONE showed some evidence of fouling. Not actual leading but some fouling. But same load. Exact same load was fired thru three different firearms with zero fouling.
So its particular firearm related MUCH like how some firearms copper foul when others dont.

My point was GENERALIZED comments like both of ours are NOT COMPLETELY TRUE. They have a modicum of truth surrounded by conjecture and false truths meant to cloud actual truths.

What I am saying is, If ya dont like it, dont do it. Its still a free country! ;)

CW

CW

My comments were none of that, they are anecdotal. My actual experience. When someone posts questions about PC in the lube section, there should be some anecdotal opinions from both sides. That way, they understand it's not as easy as the PC fanboys make it out to be.

[white eagle]

Is it really as easy as it looks on YouTube? I’ve been thinking of getting setup to do this and just wondering? Also does it work as good as they say? No lead left in the barrel.
What speed can you push before you have problems?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't know about problems with speed but
yes it is easy or as hard as you make it
your technique and equipment used has a lot to do with your results
personally I moved on from S/B to using a powder coat gun for best results
it takes more time to set up but there are no bad results
either way still beats traditional lubing, IMO

[bangerjim]

I feel most on here that complain about PC have tried and failed using only the shake-n-bake process.

The ESPC process is pretty much 100% fool-proof and very fast. After all, the powders were designed and engineered to be applied in industry with commercial electrostatic guns................................and not in a silly little plastic tub!

[cwlongshot]

I feel most on here that complain about PC have tried and failed using only the shake-n-bake process.

The ESPC process is pretty much 100% fool-proof and very fast. After all, the powders were designed and engineered to be applied in industry with commercial electrostatic guns................................and not in a silly little plastic tub!

I agree. They tried and the failed. Probably quickly gave up & now harbor bitter resentment. Ill venture they also cannot ride a Bicycle.
Flew things in life are instantly picked up & applied seamlessly. None of us has been born all knowing in over 2000 years...

I just dislike the condemnation of something based upon ones inability to Conquer it. It only serves to saddle others with that authors shortcomings.
People dont acheive great things being told only about negatives. Folks come here & ask questions for help not defeatism.
CW

[Cosmic_Charlie]

PC is not rocket science and it does work very well. I use a sheet of teflon lining a shallow baking tray to set my pistol boolits on. Other than the teflon, all you need besides the #5 Tupperware is to make a hardware cloth sifter to dump the boolits on after shaking. Now I'm only pc'ing 9mm.

[bangerjim]

The only time-consuming thing I see is the placing of the boolits on the baking medium. I use a 1/2" wide thin wooden stick as a guide for each row. Put down one row, move the stick down, and place another row. Goes rather fast with a little practice.

Back in the day when I was S&B'ing my boolits I never just dumped them. Never got the shiny smooth coats I was after. Now with ESPC, all coats are smooth and shiny.............every time................every boolit.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

SNIP>>>

They tried and the failed. Probably quickly gave up & now harbor bitter resentment. Ill venture they also cannot ride a Bicycle.
:lol:[smilie=l::lol:[smilie=l::lol:[smilie=l::lol: [smilie=l:

===
True be told, I did not apply any PC. My experiments were with boolits coated by others...others experienced in coating.
I swapped for samples, loaded 'em, and shot 'em.
from 3 different people who used 3 different techniques on 3 different calibers.
30 cal, 40 cal, 45 cal. (quantities were over 100 each.)

My experiments included:
4 different colors of 30 cal loaded in 30-06
one color (piglet method) for 40 cal in 40 S&W
6 colors in 45 cal, 45acp

Now, I've had success in those calibers with traditional lubed cast boolits, so there shouldn't be any reloading equipment issues.

Conclusion:
I had different issues with each experiment. Issues that were not acceptable. I figure if I can't get success from samples from three different experienced hobbyists, then it surely isn't worth my time to buy PC and the expensive equipment to PC my own boolits.

[bangerjim]

:lol:[smilie=l::lol:[smilie=l::lol:[smilie=l::lol: [smilie=l:

===
True be told, I did not apply any PC. My experiments were with boolits coated by others...others experienced in coating.
I swapped for samples, loaded 'em, and shot 'em.
from 3 different people who used 3 different techniques on 3 different calibers.
30 cal, 40 cal, 45 cal. (quantities were over 100 each.)

My experiments included:
4 different colors of 30 cal loaded in 30-06
one color (piglet method) for 40 cal in 40 S&W
6 colors in 45 cal, 45acp

Now, I've had success in those calibers with traditional lubed cast boolits, so there shouldn't be any reloading equipment issues.

Conclusion:
I had different issues with each experiment. Issues that were not acceptable. I figure if I can't get success from samples from three different experienced hobbyists, then it surely isn't worth my time to buy PC and the expensive equipment to PC my own boolits.

Your problem is some of those were coated with the piglet method which we proved on here to be very poor in performance. The powders are meant to be applied dry to the surface, MELTED in an oven, and cured at 400F in an oven, not dissolved in a solvent of some sorts and painted/slopped on and then cured. I never got it to work either.

The many thousands of people on here use the dry-apply oven-cure method with great success, whether the PC is applied in a little plastic tub or sprayed on with an ESPC gun.

I found the piglet method totally unacceptable because it does not form the complete molecular bonding coat that occurs when applied dry under heat and time. It may work for some but not in my book.

[reddog81]

PC'ing is pretty simple if you follow the instructions, but then again so is lubing.
PC'ing is pretty cheap for the initial cost and the on-going costs. Lubing has more upfront costs and if you're buying lubes the on-going costs are higher. I've never experimented with making my own lube.
If done correctly both will prevent leading and leave minimal fouling. If done incorrectly you'll run into problems. I'd vote that PC is more forgiving. You can use the wrong alloy or incorrect size and you still shouldn't get any leading and minimal fouling at worst.
PC'ing takes more time. If you're standing up the bullets when baking them I'd guess takes at least twice as long to complete each bullet.

I actually started with powder coating and then added lubing to the mix a few years back. I got a good deal on a Lyman lubesizer and a bunch of sizing dies so I figured I'd try it out. It is definitely faster so I use it for .38 Special and 45 ACP loads.

For 9mm, 10mm, and rifle loads I usually stick to PC'ing. For my level of shooting I cannot detect any difference in accuracy.

[Castloader]

I have PC'ed and fired thousands of boolits in .40, 9mm, .38/.357, .32 S&W/.327 FM and .30 (.308, 30-06, 300BLK). I use the shake & bake method more or less with a few variations. I get minor fouling in the barrel from the PC, but one shot removes and replaces the fouling from the shot before it so it does not accumulate, and is a breeze to clean. I can clean the bore with a plastic bore brush effectively if I choose. Accuracy is as good as I need it to be, which is to say that I can connect on steel targets at up to 30 yards at speed. I don't have the time to go crazy with alloys, I'm sure the accuracy would improve if I did. I just use plain old wheel weights.

I use this process because I can crank out a lot of boolits quickly. I can cast and PC a thousand boolits in under 3 hours. I PC batches of 200 or 300 boolits at a time. See the video below for a 2 minute quick walk through of my process. Similar to many, but not identical.

The powder in this video is from powderbuythepound mirror black.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVEBd8okTJE

[Soundguy]

Just imagine if you wasted a few minutes alloying up....

[Chaparral66]

I've tumble lubed with LLA. Still have to handle and "dry" boolits before using them. I have power coat and find it works well. I am also using Hi-Tech coating. The PC and HT costings are nice to seal the lead. All the processes take several steps. Boolits that are blemished or rejects can be remelted. LLA generates smoke. PC generates smoke and smell and the coating melts. HT does not melt, smoke or smell. It just leaves an empty shell floating on the molten lead. PC is paint. HT is a polymer coating and much more robust. I know folks that HT coat their high speed rifle loads with great success and no loss of accuracy. Lube, PC or HT for pistol/revolver won't affect accuracy enough to worry about. With a pistol or revolver you are shooting at 25 yards or less. It is 10 feet from my couch to the front door. I don't need accuracy.

[Soundguy]

I don't handle my Lla bullets. ( or rooster jacket). I just dump them onto a cooling tray, give it a shake to get everything on one layer, click the blower on and go to something else. I usually mix my Lla with Johnson's paste wax for some carnauba ..and that keeps contact sticking from happening. Rooster jacket doesn't stick either.

[rbuck351]

I lubed with a Lyman 450 for 30 years or more and had good results although it does smoke and is messy. A few years ago I found a Star sizer/luber at a gunshow for $65 with a 452 die and punch. The Star is a lot faster than the Lyman or the RCBS sizers I have and it is a lot less messy with the only messy part is handling the boolits when loading. The Star puts lube only where it belongs. A few years ago I decided to try PC shake and bake and found it works fairly well but it is slow compared to the Star. After casting a batch of boolits, I can size and lube 15 or more boolits per minute. Picking up each boolit with tweezers, shaking them off, standing up a tray of 22 cal boolits and getting them into a toaster oven without them tipping over is not only time consuming but difficult. 200 gr 45s are a lot easier. The PC does work but for me but the only real benefit I see is being able to increase diameter. I don't have issues with leading and the Star removed most of the mess and I don't care whether they smoke or not as I don't shoot indoors. I do have one issue with PC and that is the pc running down the side of the boolits and forming finning on the bottom edge of the boolits. There is probably a way to prevent this but I haven't done a lot of messing with PC yet. I does seem like a good thing to add to casting boolits but I don't think I would be happy with just PC.

[cwlongshot]

I have PC'ed and fired thousands of boolits in .40, 9mm, .38/.357, .32 S&W/.327 FM and .30 (.308, 30-06, 300BLK). I use the shake & bake method more or less with a few variations. I get minor fouling in the barrel from the PC, but one shot removes and replaces the fouling from the shot before it so it does not accumulate, and is a breeze to clean. I can clean the bore with a plastic bore brush effectively if I choose. Accuracy is as good as I need it to be, which is to say that I can connect on steel targets at up to 30 yards at speed. I don't have the time to go crazy with alloys, I'm sure the accuracy would improve if I did. I just use plain old wheel weights.

I use this process because I can crank out a lot of boolits quickly. I can cast and PC a thousand boolits in under 3 hours. I PC batches of 200 or 300 boolits at a time. See the video below for a 2 minute quick walk through of my process. Similar to many, but not identical.

The powder in this video is from powderbuythepound mirror black.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVEBd8okTJE

Excellent Video. I comments and sub'ed ya

CW

[Hanzy4200]

I tried it for the first time maybe 2 years ago. Now, roughly 80% of my casting involves powder coating. Yes, it's the bees knees.

[wmitty]

It appears to depend on whether pistol / revolver boolits are being discussed; or rifle boolits are the projectiles of interest. I have tried to build enthusiasm to make the effort to try powder coating, but I can not see the advantage of P. C. in relation to using Ben’s Liquid Lube on pistol/ revolver boolits.
I don’t shoot (never have) at an indoor range, but I do realize that for many the smoke produced by the alox is a serious problem. Pouring a few drops of B L L on a container of clean cast boolits and shaking to distribute the lube and allowing to dry is simply much quicker/ simpler and just as effective a lubrication method as P C. (Excepting the smoking alox problem). I feel that running rifle boolits thru a lubesizer is significantly faster than using a push thru die to seat gas checks and then standing the checked boolits on a tray and placing them in an oven. Please show me the error of my ways!

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Read here on the forums that there are some bpcr shooters who powder coat which was a bit of a surprise. One mentioned using Smoke's clear to maintain the aesthetic. I can say it does work very well with smokeless powder loads and is not particularly hard to do as long as you use good powder.

[doulos]

Id like to try it. But I have too much reloading equipment now. LOL This stuff is never ending.

[Petander]

Is it really as easy as it looks on YouTube? I’ve been thinking of getting setup to do this and just wondering? Also does it work as good as they say? No lead left in the barrel.
What speed can you push before you have problems?




Yes to all.

My max velocities are 2150 fps, both 45-70 and 470 NE. That's not PC speed limit,just my loads.

A cheap mini oven, a bag of verified powder (Smoke sells premium quality) and a plastic bowl is all you need. I use both Hi Tek and PC. Easy and cheap.

[megasupermagnum]

I tried coating, it doesn't fit in my system very well. While it isn't difficult, it isn't super easy either, as evidenced by the mountain of threads on coating problems people have. To be fair, plenty of people have lube issues too. There's ways to make anything fast. As I said, coating doesn't fit my system of casting. The way to do it would be to do large batches all at once. It will never be as fast to coat as to lube, but close enough to not matter. Here's the differences as I saw them, or at least perceive them.

Coating pros

Minimal fouling, zero lead, if you use the right coating, and bake them right (some coatings will foul)
Minimal smoke when shooting
No concerns with bullet storage, should last about forever.
Reportedly minimal change in performance with temperature

Coating cons

More involved to apply, both knowledge, and equipment
Requires electricity
generally less accurate
Melting down bad ones is a smokey, undesirable thing

Lube pros

Infinitely adjustable for conditions, allows you to see deficiencies in your loads, can generally be more accurate
Easier and faster to apply. Especially if you get a Star sizer
Requires no electricity to make, or to apply
Does not effect bullet dimensions
Lube is the only way to turn a casting into a useable bullet within 30 minutes.
It's easy to change lubes at will, and melted down bullets smell good.

Lube cons

Smokes more, if that matters to you
Temperature changes its properties
If a poor lube is used, poor accuracy and or fouling can occur
You have to be more careful with bullet storage

Unsure if pro or con

Coating adds diameter; could be a good thing, but more often adds it where you don't want it

Lube is more prone to allow fouling, but that usually means something is wrong with your load. (undersized bullet, inappropriate alloy, etc.)

[cwlongshot]

I tried coating, it doesn't fit in my system very well. While it isn't difficult, it isn't super easy either, as evidenced by the mountain of threads on coating problems people have. To be fair, plenty of people have lube issues too. There's ways to make anything fast. As I said, coating doesn't fit my system of casting. The way to do it would be to do large batches all at once. It will never be as fast to coat as to lube, but close enough to not matter. Here's the differences as I saw them, or at least perceive them.

Coating pros

Minimal fouling, zero lead, if you use the right coating, and bake them right (some coatings will foul)
Minimal smoke when shooting
No concerns with bullet storage, should last about forever.
Reportedly minimal change in performance with temperature

Coating cons

More involved to apply, both knowledge, and equipment
Requires electricity
generally less accurate
Melting down bad ones is a smokey, undesirable thing

Lube pros

Infinitely adjustable for conditions, allows you to see deficiencies in your loads, can generally be more accurate
Easier and faster to apply. Especially if you get a Star sizer
Requires no electricity to make, or to apply
Does not effect bullet dimensions
Lube is the only way to turn a casting into a useable bullet within 30 minutes.
It's easy to change lubes at will, and melted down bullets smell good.

Lube cons

Smokes more, if that matters to you
Temperature changes its properties
If a poor lube is used, poor accuracy and or fouling can occur
You have to be more careful with bullet storage

Unsure if pro or con

Coating adds diameter; could be a good thing, but more often adds it where you don't want it

Lube is more prone to allow fouling, but that usually means something is wrong with your load. (undersized bullet, inappropriate alloy, etc.)

Ya forgot a couple big ones!

Cost; lube as your describing needs costly luber. "Star" was your recommendation.

Its 2021 man, needing electricity isnt any kinda negative.

Coated bullets allow use of far softer alloy. Greatly reducing to eliminating a large learning curve, that is finding proper/appropriate alloys, for new casters. Harder alloys are also more costly & not required for most coated bullets.

Gas checks are REQUIRED for higher velocities when lubing. NOT SO for coated in most any handgun. Farther reducing cost to coat.

Less accuracy is completely non factual & unfounded.

"Remelting coated smokes" really... & tossing a lubed bullet in the pot sprouts daisy's? MOOT, both smoke when re melt. But I must admit, lubed do smell better. :)

Ill offer Time savings is largely moot as well. Cause sizing ( required in both is per piece. Costing can be done basket hundreds of pieces at a time. Besides the fact that most of us enjoy the process ( both) and do not consider to be a time sensitive matter.

Lastly lube itself has cost and many make there own at additional cost. Time & effort. None of which is needed for coating. Farther dwindling this time savings many claim. (Moot)

Ya see the vast majority of us casters was lubers first before coaters. So we know full well both sides.

Neither is wrong or Hands down "better" its personal preference. Its a GOOD THING to have options.

Merry Christmas all

CW

[Petander]

CW, a good post.

One more "pro" -addendum: after coating you'll never touch bare lead again. Size,sort,pack,load sealed bullets.

[popper]

Started tumbling with LLA, then ESPC, HiTek, BLL. All work good for me. I prefer PC and cook on a hot plate so I can stand up the 30 cal rifle bullet. FPS and MOA aren't much different than lubed. Shot 50 ish rnds of PC 40sw, cleaned the barrel this morning - dry patch and just a little powder residue came out, nice shiny bore. Loaded 100 rnds of HiTek coated for the 40 last nite. Works just as good. My 40 loads are soft alloy and pushed ~1k fps.

[sigep1764]

I am currently using both PC and conventional lube. Most of my 9's have tight throats or short leades and the PC does not play well with the nose. The RCBS boolit that I use for the 270 is a nose/bore rider and will not chamber with PC. The 30-30 and the 223's are a different story. They love the PC, although conventional lube has worked in them as well. It was cheap to set up for PC, I still use the Star to size those boolits.

[Shadow83]

I have been powder coating for years .45 Colt, 9mm, .40 etc. I used it as an excuse to buy a Harbor Freight powder coating setup for around $70 so I could powder coat other stuff. Never had a problem with lead or plastic in the barrels. I also get funny looks at the range when I use red powder.

Stay away from flat or satin finish powders as many can be abrasive, especially Harbor Freight's flat black.

[414gates]

I tried coating, it doesn't fit in my system very well.

Powder coat is easier, more convenient, and cheaper to set up for than lube sizing, which is why I chose it.

I did not want to buy a separate press for bullet sizing.

I did not want to handle lead bullets while loading, or lead bullets with lube on them.

Overall, powder coating may not save time over a lube sizer, but it saves a tremendous amount of work.

[elmacgyver0]

You Know, they both work.
I have a lot of bullets that I have lubed with Lee Liquid Alox, they work great.
I got into the powder coating mainly because you can produce some pretty awesome looking bullets with it.
The powder coated bullets are a joy to handle at the range, like factory ammo, lubed bullets not so much, but not a big deal either.
Will I throw away my Lee Liquid Alox? Hell no.
Right now, I am into powder coating, tomorrow, who knows.
Both methods work and work well.
So, which every way you like, go with it.
Either method produces good bullets.
The main thing is to have fun.
As they say variety is the spice of life, so do both!

[cwlongshot]

Check out Columbia Coatings CHROMA CHROME!!

https://rumble.com/vtbpwb-chroma-chrome.html

https://rumble.com/vtwddy-time-lapse-chroma-chrome-cure.html

Unbelievable looking and preforming powder!!! Lone Ranger/ Werewolf bullets Extraordinaire!!

CW

[alamogunr]

I've been meaning to try powder coat for awhile. I've got some powder and airsoft BB's(grandsons outgrew) on the shelf. Just never took the time. I have loaded a lot of PC boolits. There is a commercial caster/powder coater just down the road. I've gone thru a couple thousand of his product with complete satisfaction. He casts in about 3 auto casting machines and powder coats in what looks like a cement mixer. His oven is a continuous process rather than batch. I'm almost at the point of deciding that buying from him for the bulk of my most used pistol bullets is the answer. I enjoy the casting process too much to give it up.

Tumble lubing or size & lube works well for me. Both can get messy.

[gifbohane]

I gotta ask- what is/are Air soft BB's?

[MUSTANG]

I gotta ask- what is/are Air soft BB's?

Used to enhance static electricity when shaking/tumbling the boolits.

296702

https://www.amazon.com/Evike-Airsoft-Matrix-Match-Weight/dp/B08PCDJMCT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GTBW5DY26JEU&keywords=black+airsoft+bbs&qid=1645642889&sprefix=Black+Airsoft+BB%2Caps%2C494&sr=8-3

[Soundguy]

Would you believe that they are be bees used in airsoft guns

[Charlie Horse]

It's another tool in your toolbox.