Progressive reloaders

[pacecars]

OK being an old geezer at only 55 years old I have used a single stage press for smokeless reloading and a Lyman 310 for my BPCR loading for 35 years and I think it is time to try one of them nee fangled progressive presses. I reload 9mm, .357 Mag, 10mm, 10mm magnum (soon), 38-40, .410 GNR, .454 Casull and .480 Ruger presently. I am looking at the Dillon 550C or the 750. What accessories are needed along with these presses to get up and rolling out ammo? Pros and cons with these?

[gnappi]

Since you reload, you likely have a tumbler of sorts, a way to separate the tumbling media etc. Progressives are not difficult to use unless you start wanting to churn out 600 rounds per hour like some claim to do. I'd run one round through at a time until you're completely familiar with every operation and "feel" of the case at every station. You can make a heap of bad ammo if you start too fast.

Regarding accessories... they're for women's wardrobes and tinkerers. I have two 550's and used them straight out of the box, IMO they need nothing unless you HAVE to tinker. Then depending on your upgrades you only have yourself to blame for issues :-)

Since changeover of shell plates, primer tubes is again IMO somewhat of a pain, initially I'd limit myself to tool head changes and the same primer feeder sizes if possible, then you only have to concern yourself with setting dies up correctly on the tool head and shell plate changing. So in this case, I'd do all small primers, 9mm, .357 mag, and 454 Casull. Then go on to large primers.

[G W Wade]

I use Dillon 550 as do several of my friends, mostly SASS shooters. We like the 550 because of simplicity and caliber conversions cost less. Usually plug along at 400 round per hour. I currently have 11 calibers set up. GW

[jmorris]

If you have reloaded on a single stage for 35 years, the 550 will seem like warp speed and keep things as simple as they get for progressive reloaders.

There isn’t another progressive that is as fast to swap between small and large primers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rCGV-JPYaE&t=7s

[imashooter2]

The Dillon 550 will require a conversion for each caliber you load. You will find it much easier and more convenient to get a tool head and powder die for each caliber.

The press comes with a case activated powder measure and uses the dies you already have. Since you already load, you have all the other peripherals you need.

[dverna]

I have owned all the Dillons....and more than one of each

Get a 550. It will be the last progressive press on my bench when I get too old to shoot a lot. I get 300-350 rounds an hour on it without heroics.

[fast ronnie]

I use a 750 with a case feeder. I really like it. I have several presses and what works best for you will depend on how many rounds you load of a given type at a time. I load 8 or 10 different setups on mine, but only use one powder measure, as I tend to load different types and amounts of powder every time I load. The quick change plates are a must, as is the case feeder. Your dies will work fine with the 750, but not the SDB. I also use the SDB, but depends on what I'm loading. 750 is a better deal in my opinion, but had the SDB before I got the 750. The SDB is the biggest reason I got the 750. Yes, it is more money up front, but in the long run, I think is a better option. Again, depends on your volume. The 550 has no case feeder so that is a drawback in my opinion.

[M-Tecs]

I had a pair of 550's but never cared for them. I wanted a case feeder and I didn't care for the lack of auto advance on the 550's. As soon as the 650's came out I upgraded. The 550 is less complicated which some prefer. I am not in that camp. The 550 not having an auto-advance makes it much easier to do a double charge.

[imashooter2]

The 550s now have a case feeder for pistol cartridges. Nothing for rifle cases though.

The lack of an auto advance does make it easier to double charge.

[rbuck351]

The couple of times I tried double charging on my 550 it made a mess with the over filled case.

[414gates]

You will need a shellplate for every caliber you want to reload.

Seeing as you reload single stage, and time is not a factor, the dies changes are the same as for single stage - you don't need a separate toolhead for every caliber.

The case feeder and bullet feeder are great for people who reload a lot of one caliber. When you reload many calibers in small quantites, it becomes a serious time waster changing case feeder / bullet feeder plates every time you change calibers.

I suggest starting with the 750 without the case feeder. and shellplates for each of your calibers.

You may like it so much that you buy a second machine to have one setup for large primers, and one for small.

[pacecars]

Thanks for the assistance. I found a great deal on a 750 complete set up and bought it. It has a little more than I need but couldn’t beat the price. It came with the following:

Xl 750 spare parts kit “never opened”
Dillon .38/.357 carbide die set and conversion kit
Dillon 9mm carbide die set and conversion kit
Dillon .45acp carbide die set and conversion kit
Dillon .223 die set and conversion kit
Dillon .45 long colt carbide die set and conversion kit
XL 750 swage it
Dillon flip tray
Dillon strong mount
5 Dillon 750 toolheads with 3 stands
3 Dillon powder measures
Loaded cartridge tray
Dillon casefeeder with small rifle and large pistol case feed plates
.223 bullet feed tube bullet feeder mini
.45 ACP bullet feed tube bullet feeder mini
Mr bullet feeder die
Comes with power supply , primer tubes , primer pickup tubes , comes with everything needed to start progressive loading immediately, press and all components are in like new condition !

[georgerkahn]

Congrats, pacecars -- what you list seems like quite the complete outfit! I have had, and was going to post an endorsement for the 550 Dillon -- but you've "done better"! As a bit of poetic irony, I got my progressive ~thirty years back, kind of retiring my single-stage and 4-station Lyman All Americans. Now ;) ;) ;) -- at least for past two-three years, I do all my loading pretty much on my MEC Marksman and/or Forster Co-Ax single stage presses. I used the Dillon -- which more than paid for itself when I was shooting competition pistol -- for years as my #1 press; now? I've acquired a bit more OCD (Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder) trying to get run-out to 0.000"; powder measured to one-zillionth of a grain; etc., etc., etc. to (hopefully) shrink groups. (A losing battle, for me!)
BEST WISHES to you with your Dillon XL750!
geo

[pacecars]

Thanks! Hopefully with retirement looming I will have more time to load and shoot. I was going to go with the 550 since I wasn’t going to get a case feeder but by the time I added up everything and added a couple conversion kits I was already over $1300 and then this popped up for $300 more I jumped on it

[Hossfly]

I’ve got a 650 and it was a pain switching primer sizes out so found second on eBay and won it for low cost. It came with a boat load of extras like extra case feeder, primer tubes, 3 caliber changes etc. not really hard changing primer parts, but is such a pleasure not having to. Loading fast is advantage but you have to become more aware of problems. Limp wresting is your friend, don’t force anything, if something don’t feel right stop.

[Char-Gar]

OK being an old geezer at only 55 years old I have used a single stage press for smokeless reloading and a Lyman 310 for my BPCR loading for 35 years and I think it is time to try one of them nee fangled progressive presses. I reload 9mm, .357 Mag, 10mm, 10mm magnum (soon), 38-40, .410 GNR, .454 Casull and .480 Ruger presently. I am looking at the Dillon 550C or the 750. What accessories are needed along with these presses to get up and rolling out ammo? Pros and cons with these?

I am 79.5 years old and been reloading since 1959. I don't have now will I ever have a progressive reloading press. Too late the follow the children's lead now.

[45DUDE]

I am 76 and have 2 550's and all the trimmings and buy something every week. I saw an add for a 550 on this forum a few days ago. Post #12 must have hit the jackpot.

[David2011]

Congrats on the find, pacecars. Having owned a 550 and a 650 for many years, I would have recommended a 550 too. It’s so easy to change cartridges/calibers and conversions are considerably more expensive for the 650/750. With the deal that you got, those details are insignificant.

[wv109323]

The 750 is much less versatile than the 550. If you were loading for one or two calibers I would recommend the 750. Then you would need to load several months ammo while rhe press was set up for that caliber before switching over.
With the 550 you need a caliber conversion for each caliber you are loading. You probably need a tool head for each caliber. That way you can set up your dies and leave them set up in the separate tool heads. Some buy a powder measure for each tool head and leave the powder measure adjusted for the same powder charge. Otherwise you need to empty the powder measure and transfer it to the new tool head and adjust the powder charge. Also you may need to change out the powder bar. There is a large and small. Large is mostly for rifle and small for pistol.
If you load stick powders for rifle then the 450 powder drop tube and funnel may be nice. With this you do not use the Dillon powder measure and measure the powder off press ( on a separate powder measure with a scale)and then dump it through the funnel into the cartridge.
It is nice to keep the caliber conversion with the correct tool head and dies.
Also the Dillon die wrench is almost a necessity since the dies are so close in the tool head. The Dillon wrench is small enough to get in around the dies.Plus you need the necessary Allen wrenches at hand. Regular Allen wrenches work but the 550 requires 4 sizes and it is convinient to have them segregated from a packet.

[Hossfly]

I’ve got a 650 and it was a pain switching primer sizes out so found second on eBay and won it for low cost. It came with a boat load of extras like extra case feeder, primer tubes, 3 caliber changes etc. not really hard changing primer parts, but is such a pleasure not having to. Loading fast is advantage but you have to become more aware of problems. Limp wresting is your friend, don’t force anything, if something don’t feel right stop.

[dverna]

I am 79.5 years old and been reloading since 1959. I don't have now will I ever have a progressive reloading press. Too late the follow the children's lead now.

You are much too intelligent to post this. Some of us reload to shoot...and shoot a lot.

[Dave W.]

Thanks for the assistance. I found a great deal on a 750 complete set up and bought it. It has a little more than I need but couldn’t beat the price. It came with the following:


So you are the one that stole that out from under me. :killingpc Congratulations, that was a good deal, you will enjoy it!

[BeemerMark]

When I was younger I bought a Dillon SQB for 45 acp because I shot a lot, and I mean a lot. Then I picked a second one up for 357 magnum. Both would have issues with seating primers. Hours to clean and debug. One friend bought a Hornady progressive. Same issue, you can load a few thousands rounds and then primers won't seat, flip, bounce out, etc, another friend bought a higher end Dillon. Bottom line is I removed the decapping pin and seat primers as a separate operation. Progressive presses are all the rage but unless your shooting thousands of round a month they just don't make sense. I've gone back to a single stage press.

[M-Tecs]

Progressive presses like to be clean. I have a shop vac and compressed air next to mine when I am loading. On average I get about 6,500 rounds on my 650's between stoppages and about 9,500 rounds on by 1050's between stoppages. I have a very large collection of presses. The single stations rarely get used even for small batches.

[BucketBack]

I avoid vacuums around gunpowder because of the static electricity.

The air hose does a good job keeping the RL550B clean.

[Baltimoreed]

I have 2 gifted 550b’s and 2 Lyman T2’s that I use. Two ways of doing the same thing, you can move the tool to the work or the work to the tool. I also prime on these presses. Either way works for me. I have an old dust buster vac and tooth brushes that I use for spills.

[imashooter2]

I use a cheap 1 inch paintbrush to keep my presses clean.

The primer issues are usually bench stiffness. Progressives want to be on a solid surface. No deflection.

[gnappi]

I use a cheap 1 inch paintbrush to keep my presses clean.

The primer issues are usually bench stiffness. Progressives want to be on a solid surface. No deflection.

Now there's a practical reloader, though I sprung for a parts cleaning brush. The handle is longer and the bristles a bit stiffer :-)

[imashooter2]

Now there's a practical reloader, though I sprung for a parts cleaning brush. The handle is longer and the bristles a bit stiffer :-)

I wanted stiffer too… I took scissors and cut the bristles to half length. [smilie=l:

Compressed air is fine, but it sends powder granules all over the shop and blows my bench clutter around.

[pacecars]

So you are the one that stole that out from under me. :killingpc Congratulations, that was a good deal, you will enjoy it!

Sorry! Sort of��

[Alstep]

I bought a used Hornady a few years ago. Has served me well so far.

[jmorris]

I avoid vacuums around gunpowder because of the static electricity.

The air hose does a good job keeping the RL550B clean.

I keep a small handheld pneumatic vacuum in my reloading room because I don’t like the debris blown onto my wood floor. If your blowing it off, you already have the compressed air needed.

That said there are lots of explosion proof vacuums and shop type, where debris don’t go through the impeller offer greater safety, especially if you suck up a live primer.

[sierra1911]

My first press was a Dillon 650 back in the late 90's. Before purchasing it, I'd never loaded a round. When trying to decide whether to buy a 550 or 650, multiple guys at the LGS told me that if I wanted a 550 that they'd sell me theirs so that they could get a 650.

With my now old eyes one accessory that I'd not want to be without is a lighting kit. There are many to choose from, I chose the UFO from http://kmssquared.com/ufo650.html.

There are a few other accessories that I've added over the years that, while not necessary, make using the press easier for me:

• Handle. Although I've heard that putting a sock over the ball on the standard handle eliminates the abrasion to the palm of your hand, I use the Dillon aluminum roller handle; others use ergo handles from https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/levers.

• Powder Measure. To make adjusting the powder measure simpler among different cartridges, I've installed the uniquetek.com Micrometer Powder Bar Kit on each of my three powder measures (small, large, and magnum). This allows for quickly setting the powder measure for previously established loads. I just write the micrometer setting in parentheses beside the grain weight in my load data binder. Set it, double check with a scale, and start loading.

• Powder Check. I always found it a nuisance to tighten the locknut on the powder check rod without affecting its setting. I now have a separate powder check rod for each cartridge. Dillon part numbers 21372, 21373, & 21374. To avoid having to set the length of the powder check push rod when changing cartridges, I used the depth gauge on my caliper to set each of the powder check dies to extend 1.400" above the toolhead.

• Quick Releases. Completely not necessary but nice are the Quick Releases from https://entirelycrimson.com/collections/dillon-xl-750 for the powder measures and powder check. Eliminates having to use allen wrenches to remove and install them.

• Press Height. I learned from others on this site that the best height for a press is such that your arm is fully extended (or nearly fully extended) at the bottom of the stroke without having to drop your shoulder. I use the https://inlinefabrication.com/ Ultramounts to accomplish this.

I've also modified my old 1990's casefeeder to supply power to my press light and Dillon case trimmer. I replaced the original power cord with a long one that runs from under the bench thru a hole next to the Ultramount and up to the feeder. I cut two holes in the case feeder for power switches and mounted the power supply for the light and the bridge rectifier for the trimmer inside the casefeeder. The picture shows the coiled trimmer cord dangling from the bottom of the casefeeder.

293349

[FISH4BUGS]

OK being an old geezer at only 55 years old I have used a single stage press for smokeless reloading and a Lyman 310 for my BPCR loading for 35 years and I think it is time to try one of them nee fangled progressive presses. I reload 9mm, .357 Mag, 10mm, 10mm magnum (soon), 38-40, .410 GNR, .454 Casull and .480 Ruger presently. I am looking at the Dillon 550C or the 750. What accessories are needed along with these presses to get up and rolling out ammo? Pros and cons with these?

All I can tell you is what I do and what i use.
What to buy? The 550 is a workhorse press. It has manual advancing meaning you use your thumb to move the bullets into the next station. The 750 does it automatically with every pull of the handle. The 750 is a bullet factory. The 550 is more manual but just as good. I have had my 550 for maybe 30 years, starting life as a 450 and a number of (no cost) upgrades it lives as a 550b.
I like to watch my reloads closely. The manual nature of the 550 appeals to me because every step is a place to look and make sure all is well. I think if you are pounding out a thousand rounds per hour each round might not get the same close eye.
I am not sure that they both don't use the same die sets, but that would be a consideration. The 550 uses standard thread dies.
Preference? If you have to pound out thousands of rounds, the 750 is the way to go. I can do 400 per hour with my Dillon 550 at a leisurely pace. 3 hours on a Sunday afternoon or in the evening, and POOF! you have your thousand rounds. Works for me.
I'd like to think I am a pretty complete reloader, and have everything that I need. In thinking about what are the bare bones equipment choices? The following are needed: My Dillon 550b (has loaded well over 200,000 rounds), using reloading dies, shell plates, spare parts kit (you don't want to load 1000 9mm and need a part in the middle of the run), an RCBS scale, and I would advise a Lee Factory crimp die for each of your die sets (not crucial but they WORK!). You can go from there.
ADDITIONAL: since I am a bullet caster I have a Lee 20lb pot that is 30 years old, lots of bullet moulds ( I kind of collect them, too) and a Star sizer. You won't need those unless you cast your own bullets.
So my vote? 550c, hands down.

[Iowa Fox]

Fish4bugs where did you find the no cost upgrades for your 450?

[jsizemore]

Nothing beats pulling the handle and producing a finished round each time. Except for the first 3 on a 550. And when you start powder coating, it gets even better.

My buddy used to load for 3 guns for silhouette with a 550 he automated. He won most matches. I single loaded and didn't gain enough to make a difference. Most days.

[avogunner]

I'll be the odd man out here... yes, Dillon's are good machines (I've had a SDB for 30 years) but I don't care for the 550. I went with the Hornady LnL and have been perfectly satisfied with it. When I want to pump out a bunch of .223 or Garand food, it takes care of business without any trouble.
Again, not against blue stuff but I my Kool-aid comes in all colors.

[jmorris]

Nothing beats pulling the handle and producing a finished round each time.

Hitting a button and going about your business, only to come back to 100 loaded rounds does.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrFhnDQ-eUU&t=1s

[FISH4BUGS]

Fish4bugs where did you find the no cost upgrades for your 450?

My customer number at Dillon is 3 digits. I have been a customer of theirs forever.
Back in the day, I recall that they did those upgrades for nothing.
It may have been easily 30 years or more ago.
I do not even recall specifically what the upgrade was, but it was free.

[AnthonyB]

Totally off topic question, but sorta close:
How do you guys loading rifle rounds on the progressive presses remove the sizing lubricant from the brass? I have been depriming/sizing/swaging separately and loading clean brass without sizing. Looking for a better way.
Tony

[rockrat]

I just take a shop rag or a blue paper towel and while I watch TV, just wipe the lube off. In my recliner and cleaned ammo on one side and lubed stuff on the other side.

Sometimes I just process the brass first and clean it, before I run it thru the machine to load it.

[jsizemore]

Hitting a button and going about your business, only to come back to 100 loaded rounds does.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrFhnDQ-eUU&t=1s

WOW! I find operating the handle relaxing. Leaving the operation to anybody/anything else would mess with my nerves. The variation with Red Dot (which was +/- .1 grain) bothered me so much that I switched to SW Clean Shot which had half a tenth of a grain variation.

[AnthonyB]

Rockrat, thanks. My arthritic hands mean I will likely keep processing the brass before loading.
Tony

[Finster101]

Totally off topic question, but sorta close:
How do you guys loading rifle rounds on the progressive presses remove the sizing lubricant from the brass? I have been depriming/sizing/swaging separately and loading clean brass without sizing. Looking for a better way.
Tony

I use the homemade lanolin and alcohol spray lube posted in another thread and find no reason to remove it at all.

[jmorris]

I find operating the handle relaxing.

You are not alone, there are lots of single stage users by choice.

[jsizemore]

I use a 550, just couldn't automate it.

[dverna]

I use a 550, just couldn't automate it.

I have never seen an automated 550 or heard of one. Anything can be done put it might be just as practical to sell it and add the money for a 750.

[jmorris]

I use a 550, just couldn't automate it.

Just about anything can be automated.

Not being a guy that finds it relaxing, I have even automated single stage presses.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01zbImsdkbg

[FISH4BUGS]

I'll be the odd man out here... yes, Dillon's are good machines (I've had a SDB for 30 years) but I don't care for the 550. I went with the Hornady LnL and have been perfectly satisfied with it. When I want to pump out a bunch of .223 or Garand food, it takes care of business without any trouble.
Again, not against blue stuff but I my Kool-aid comes in all colors.

I agree but I wonder how LEE is with their customer support. I have had many 550 wear items replaced over the years, and they even sent me a complete powder measure system once....all at no charge.
Lee has made some spectacularly great items over the years at affordable prices. My original 20 lb. pot (a/k/a drip-o-matic) has served me well for 30+ years. It does drip but that turning of the spout screw is just part of the casting process.
The other item is the Factory crimp Die. Simple and it WORKS!
But all in all, I would still say nothing beats Dillon for quality and customer support.

[jetinteriorguy]

I use the homemade lanolin and alcohol spray lube posted in another thread and find no reason to remove it at all.
Since the brass case needs to expand and grip the walls of the chamber to prevent it from putting too much pressure on the bolt face, I would think leaving lube on the case would not be a good idea.

[FISH4BUGS]

Totally off topic question, but sorta close:
How do you guys loading rifle rounds on the progressive presses remove the sizing lubricant from the brass? I have been depriming/sizing/swaging separately and loading clean brass without sizing. Looking for a better way.
Tony

Yup...the lanolin and alcohol mix is the best.
Use it sparingly and you really don't have to wipe it down. But if you are OCD, you certainly can.
If I load 1000 rounds for an afternoon of full auto fun. I certainly will forego the wiping down of the loaded cases.

[Finster101]

Since the brass case needs to expand and grip the walls of the chamber to prevent it from putting too much pressure on the bolt face, I would think leaving lube on the case would not be a good idea.


Well, after a few thousand rounds I have never had an issue.

[414gates]

Since the brass case needs to expand and grip the walls of the chamber to prevent it from putting too much pressure on the bolt face, I would think leaving lube on the case would not be a good idea.

With pistol brass, it is not necessary to de-lube the brass after a lanolin / alchohol mixture.

With rifle brass, for which I use pure lanolin on mine, you may wipe off the excess, but there will still be some left on the brass.

It causes no problems whatsoever.

[Lloyd Smale]

i dont leave it on rifle brass because it attracts dirt. Pistol brass is loaded with carbide dies and if not it too is cleaned for the same reason. I dont care about pretty brass just tumble long enough to clean the crap off.

[Outer Rondacker]

I run a few progressive presses. Never had the pleasure of owning a new one. I only use one for rifle, and to be honest have not run rifle though it in years since the AR15 fad took off. I use an older Hornady projector (older LNL) press for large runs of 223/556. I do size and decap on a different press so I can wash after. I like Lloyd said I just tumble to get clean and not brand new looking.

I have found that wetting down a rag on a flat surface with brake or parts cleaner, then rolling the rifle rounds across them, like you would your old lube pad works well to take off the lube. I do not soke them so no fear of damaging the round. If loaded with cast not PC'ed it even shines up the projectile. I think just using a clean rag would work just fine also.

[David2011]

For pistol rounds a brief tumble works great. For rifle a little mineral spirits on a rag or towel works great. It’s lots easier on the skin and body than brake cleaner.

[jmorris]

Well, after a few thousand rounds I have never had an issue.

I have shot several hundred thousand that have had lube on them without issue. Although if they are going to be around for awhile or not directly from box to gun and fire, I do post load tumble them for 15 min to remove the lube.

[Sig]

I'll be the odd man out here... yes, Dillon's are good machines (I've had a SDB for 30 years) but I don't care for the 550. I went with the Hornady LnL and have been perfectly satisfied with it. When I want to pump out a bunch of .223 or Garand food, it takes care of business without any trouble.
Again, not against blue stuff but I my Kool-aid comes in all colors.

Same here. I have no dislike of blue products but I went red. I run 2 LNL's with case feeders, one Hornady & one 3D printed. Both run fine with very few issues. I just added a bullet feeder/collator to one this past week. I received a 3D printer for Christmas & built this collator https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator.
I've only tested it with 9mm J words but it ran flawless during a 400 round batch. Thinking about building another for the other LNL.

[tmanbuckhunter]

Hindsight being 20/20, I would have bought the 750 over my 550 for the auto advance; it's just safer, and it appears the 750 is the route you went so good job. I had to set a rule for myself on the 550... The ram does NOT get run up, without rotating the shell plate. I'd rather hammer out a squib than set off a double charge. Other than caliber conversion kits for each cartridge, the dillon units usually come ready to rock and roll with the kit... not much needed. You can keep tool heads set up for each cartridge you want to load, but honestly, locking lock rings are just as fast (and cheaper), and it really doesn't take me any time to re-set a charge bar... that extra 5 minutes is worth the hundreds of dollars saved. I'm in a hurry but not that big of a hurry.

[GWS]

Same here. I have no dislike of blue products but I went red. I run 2 LNL's with case feeders, one Hornady & one 3D printed. Both run fine with very few issues. I just added a bullet feeder/collator to one this past week. I received a 3D printer for Christmas & built this collator https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator.
I've only tested it with 9mm J words but it ran flawless during a 400 round batch. Thinking about building another for the other LNL.

I feel the same way. Dillons are perfectly fine, but I liked features on my green presses, and I have been perfectly happy with them. And my newish Pro Chucker 7 is awesome.....just couldn't resist trying out 7 stations. I do have a little red on my bench....a Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder and my super fun little Lee APP processing press. No Blue on the bench so far......but I sure wouldn't rule that out in the future......

I'm just a 6 month veteran at 3D printing. I love the tools I created for my presses. Two case feeders and and two bullet feeders later, I have no doubt you will be glad you did, if you decide to build another. Then another for the Lee app, another press that is just crying for 3d printed parts and collators.

It doesn't matter what color or model your press is, a 3d printer is the easiest and cheapest route to make it even nicer.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Progressives work great for straight walled pistol cases. Loved my Dillon SDB. Never bothered me to do rifle rounds on my Rock Chucker because i don't shoot nearly as many.

[Outer Rondacker]

Progressives work great for straight walled pistol cases. Loved my Dillon SDB. Never bothered me to do rifle rounds on my Rock Chucker because i don't shoot nearly as many.

This is how I look at it as well.

[ddeck22]

I have a Hornady Lock and Load due to getting a great deal. Maybe at some point I'll get a Dillon, but I've been able to 3d print a case feeder and other items so all in I'm about $400. I just couldn't pass up that deal during the middle of the pandemic.

[Outer Rondacker]

I have a Hornady Lock and Load due to getting a great deal. Maybe at some point I'll get a Dillon, but I've been able to 3d print a case feeder and other items so all in I'm about $400. I just couldn't pass up that deal during the middle of the pandemic.

Everything I own other than the items I have built myself I bought because it was a deal. I keep telling myself one day I am going to buy something because I want that exact one. I have a LNL. No case feeder. You wouldn't happen to have a link to the printable pdf would you. I have a buddy who has a 3d printer and he cannot use it to save his butt. Maybe I will ask him to give it a go. Now that I think about it I am still waiting on the dillon powder adjustment knob he was going to print me.

[ddeck22]

This is the original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2488944

And this person reworked it a bit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4893734

There are other ones to build the hopper, but I went with a commercial one I found on craigslist for $100.

I've printed quite a bit of stuff on it for the Hornady, including the primer piece when it broke. Most of the stuff is on Thingverse, just search for Hornady.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thank you ddeck22. I will check it out.

[Sig556r]

Couple of years older here, but been using 3 550s (large & small primer and 1 for specific rifle use) but still keep single stage for miscellaneous use (bullet sizing, pulling, case forming). Easier to control manually advancing stages than the auto versions (650 & up).

[bubbadoyle]

I have a Hornady Lock and Load due to getting a great deal. Maybe at some point I'll get a Dillon, but I've been able to 3d print a case feeder and other items so all in I'm about $400. I just couldn't pass up that deal during the middle of the pandemic.

I bought my hornady lock and load back when they first came out. I paid less than $500 with a case feeder. I see the case feeder goes for $500 now. You certainly got a deal on yours. I’ve been happy with mine but I really don’t use it as much as I’d like.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[ddeck22]

Facebook marketplace. A newer lock and load with 16 bushings, a 40 cal powder expander, two powder cops with many other extras. It sounded like the person got it 5 years ago for $100, so at $300 he was making out. At that time last year, new ones were going for $600 and hard to find.

[Sig]

Everything I own other than the items I have built myself I bought because it was a deal. I keep telling myself one day I am going to buy something because I want that exact one. I have a LNL. No case feeder. You wouldn't happen to have a link to the printable pdf would you. I have a buddy who has a 3d printer and he cannot use it to save his butt. Maybe I will ask him to give it a go. Now that I think about it I am still waiting on the dillon powder adjustment knob he was going to print me.

If you have the access to the 3d printer still, you should check out this:https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?354324-Making-that-Bullet-Collator
There are modifications to make it into a brass collator/feeder. I have the other one that ddeck22 mentioned & just built the above bullet collator. I intend to replace the thingiverse case feeder with Tyler's.

[jason367]

I like green. I use the RCBS pro 2000's. Now they are up to the pro chucker 7. Dillon is the Cadillac of presses though. Great presses.

[Rockzilla]

If you go the Dillon get the 750 and be done with it.
to crank out ammo....case feeder, bullet feeder, invest in extra tool heads makes it
easier to change calibers, to add more autodrive ($$$)

Got all kinds of Progressives, old Hornady Pro-7's, Hornady Projectors, LNL-AP
Dillons, Stars, etc.
They all have their Pro's and Con's
They all have their followers
They all have issues
They all have to be fine tuned
They all work
They all make a completed round
I'm not brand loyal..

The Dillon you'll have to get extra tool heads which
makes changing calibers easier ($$$) of course shell plates (holders)

Hornady LNL-AP you use a bushing system insert dies in the bushing
insert it in the press, basically twist n lock, shell plates needed also

Lee -- I can-not comment on as I haven't used one

RCBS -- same as Lee

Now you can get case feeders / bullet feeders for them.

Then you have case prep, cleaning, crimped primers removal, trimming, etc.

Dillon sales a case trimmer for the press ($$$)

How you prep your cases is your choice:

Wet Tumble ( DIY Thumbler) Dry..
Decap.. either just use a decapping die or if you want to size / decap you could
go the Lee way, or just size and then do trim / crimp removal
(if you brass is not that dirty decap / clean)
Remove crimp in needed
Some prime on press, some off press others hand prime (old Lee Round Tray)
trim, then load
the crimp removal is a one n done process

So fo me
Sort
Thumble
Decap /remove crimp (if there)
Size
Trim
prime // load

I do everything in "batch mode" unless working up loads or Target
then it's to the single stage.

For 45ACP, 38 Spl --- Stars

My old 70's Rock Chuckers still going strong
and the "Nutcrackers"

just a thought...

-Rock

[LAKEMASTER]

I have a Lee Loadmaster that I bought from a person on here. I find I use it more like a turret press with rifle rounds than any other way. I feel it's a Pretty versatile option since you can get them cheap or free when someone gets upset with them. I bought a cast breech lock from Lee a couple years ago when they were " factory second " I'm convinced I'll be using Lee equipment for my entire reloading life.

It's kinda fun to take your press you load one rifle round at a time with and make it load 5 pistol brass at once.
I do enjoy rifle on the single stage for quality reloading time

[jmorris]

Rifle is a different animal than pistol rounds. I do two passes, one with a tool head that sizes and deprimes then the Dillon trimmer.

After that they get the load pass.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La83ZVKnBzw

[calm seas]

Totally off topic question, but sorta close:
How do you guys loading rifle rounds on the progressive presses remove the sizing lubricant from the brass? I have been depriming/sizing/swaging separately and loading clean brass without sizing. Looking for a better way.
Tony
I use a Hornady LnL, lube, deprime/size, clean brass, and reload.