Swedish M96

[Ray1946]

Have this old Swedish Mauser I bought a few years back at Cabelas. Its dated 1906 on the reciever ring and everything is in good shape. The muzzle is threaded and it has a muzzle brake screwed on the end of the barrel. There are many cuts on different areas of the stock and I have no idea what they are for. The bolt looks factory, but is curved. It has a Century Arms ID near the end of the barrel.......................

[Uncle Grinch]

Sounds like it’s a M38 or M94 depending on barrel length. The M96 and the M38/96 had straight bolts with the M96 being the longer barrel version. Not sure what your question is other than which version you have.

[Ithaca Gunner]

There was only one Swedish rifle with a muzzle brake and bent bolt, the Model-40 which was far all purposes a German M-98k chambered for the Swedish M-32 machine gun round. The M-32 cartridge, 8x63mm these were issued to Swedish machine gun troops only and not general issue.

With a date of 1906 on the receiver, I highly doubt it's an M-40.

We need pictures!

[zarrinvz24]

It could be one of the older Kimber custom's. IIRC, Kimber got its start 'sporterizing' Swedish Mausers.

[Adam Helmer]

Ray,

How long is the barrel? It sounds like a M96 with about a 30 inch barrel. I have one with a threaded muzzle with a screw on muzzlebrake. Some M96s were converted to M38 barrel length with about a 24 inch barrel. I have several and a true M38 with threaded muzzle, MB and a turn down bolt. Hope this helps.

Adam

[higgins]

The muzzle brake is more of a flash suppressor that some importers or dealers put on the rifles to make them snazzier. The barrel was threaded to attach a blank firing device that shredded the wooden-bullet blanks the Swedes used to render them less dangerous. During rebuild bolts with turned down handles were fitted to some rifles. If the serial number on the bolt handle matches the receiver, it's original to the rifle. Even if it's not numbered to the receiver it's no big deal as long as the headspace is good.

[Adam Helmer]

higgins,

Yes, you got it right to a point? When does a Muzzle Brake become a Flash Suppressor? Many of my Swedes have a screw on device to protect the barrel threads and have long flutes in the device. Are they Flash Suppressors or Muzzle Brakes? What is the difference???

Adam

[mac60]

There was a device that threaded on the end of some swede's that was meant to shred a wooden training bullet upon exiting the barrel. Are you sure it's a muzzle break?

[Adam Helmer]

There was a device that threaded on the end of some swede's that was meant to shred a wooden training bullet upon exiting the barrel. Are you sure it's a muzzle break?

mac60,

Ok so PLEASE educate me since I only hold a Masters Degree. WHAT is the difference between a Flash Suppressor and a Muzzle Brake? Help? I see flutes in the 2 inch device, BUT what is it?

Adam

[Texas by God]

It's an aftermarket flash suppressor. A muzzle brake has a small opening for the bullet to exit while the ports, slots, gills or holes vent the gas sideways or slightly rearward to "brake" the recoil. A flash suppressor has a large opening at the muzzle- sure keeps the crown out of the dirt in the floorboard IME.[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[Ray1946]

Sorry I can't post a pic, my cameras on the fritz. The device on the end of the barrel is definitely a flash suppressor, has long slots that break up the flash. It has a 29 inch barrel and regular open sights on the rear and a post front sight. I am wondering when the flash suppressor was in stalled, did it have something to do with WWII? This is really a beautiful, well made rifle. The only thing it really lacks is the Mauser receiver cross-bolt. Going to start making bullets on Monday. I sent off for a book on Swedish Mausers.....................

[Larry Gibson]

mac60,

Ok so PLEASE educate me since I only hold a Masters Degree. WHAT is the difference between a Flash Suppressor and a Muzzle Brake? Help? I see flutes in the 2 inch device, BUT what is it?

Adam

A flash suppressor suppresses the flash. Generally, a devise in the end of the muzzle that contains and breaks up the muzzle flash with long longitudinal slots during limited visibility. Useful to avoid detection but mostly to keep from blinding the shooter. Some flash suppressors can dampen the effect of recoil although not as much as a true muzzle break.

A muzzle break redirects the gas to pull the firearm forward and/or to keep the muzzle from rising. This is accomplished via the "jet action" of the gas. Some muzzle breaks also act as a flash suppressor though most often not as good as a true flash suppressor.

Be advised there are many designs out there of both. Some are functional in name only........

[Adam Helmer]

Texas,

The device on the muzzles of my M96 and M38 is 2.25 inches long with 4 flutes (cuts) every 90 degrees around the outside of the device along the length that are 1.75 inches long. The bullet passes through the inside of the device. So, is it a flash suppressor or muzzle brake, perhaps both. LOL.

Thanks Larry for the information. Whichever my Swedes have, the device protect the muzzle threads and it does look cool. I cannot post pictures because I do not have the skills needed. Sorry.

Adam

[Ray1946]

Thanks so much to all for your help!!! Just one more small item that kind of slid in the back of my brain; Does the rifle shoot better with or without the muzzle break? I kind of hesitated to throw that in because its probably an individual issue..................

[Adam Helmer]

Ray,

That is a great question that could be determined at the bench. I worked out my Swede accuracy loads with the devices installed and never saw a need to discover if removing it made a difference. Perhaps next Spring I will go to my backyard bench and find out.

Adam

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello Ray,

Mine was imported by Century Arms,
the Barrel was about 24" but it still had the threaded portion on it.
The Bolt was the Straight type, and the date is 1902.
All numbers match, not sure if this info helps any.
Of course I had it customized a little, cut the bolt
& reworked it and put it in a composite stock.
I really love this thing, I usually carry it deer hunting.

AntiqueSledMan.

[Texas by God]

In the glory days of Reagan, tons of military rifles were imported including the wonderful Swedish Mausers. A smart entrepreneur offered the flash hiders for the Swedish rifles to both protect the muzzle threads and to look “Tacticool”- which was reason enough for me to buy one for my $60 1896 Orbendorf Mauser.

[GregLaROCHE]

I can’t see why a military rife in 6.5x55 would need a muzzle break. Perhaps an importer got a good deal on a bunch that had the blank shredders on them. They were removed and replaced with whatever it is to make them more sellable. I don’t think you would be able to shoot regular bullets through the shredder. Crown Jewels is the Bible of Swedish Mausers.

[Fishman]

The original imports came with a small cap to cover and protect the threads. The flash suppressor was an aftermarket item that replaced that cap and made your rifle look all cool and such. In point of fact, not all m-96's came with threaded barrels. Those that received little use and thus little barrel erosion did not receive new barrels during arsenal rebuilds.

They are fantastically well-built rifles that were imported and sold for less than $100 up into the mid-90's, and are still undervalued today imho.

[Ray1946]

Thanks so much for all the great responses! Got out a few of my 6.5 molds tonight and was trying to figure out which bullet to try first. I bought Lymans latest a few years back, but have an NEI mold from back in the 80's that I had made with 2 different cavities in the same mold. One is 130 grs. and the other is 160 grs. Really like the looks of that 160 gr. bullet; might start with that...........................

[Eddie Southgate]

Fishman,

I looked at a 96 at Larry's West in Madison Alabama yesterday , price was $999 and change + tax . Last one I saw for sale prior to that was at the Reloading Bench in Mount Juliet Tennessee it was right at $800 , that was several years ago . Hard to call that undervalued considering they were in the $200-350 range when I bought mine . MY CG63 cost me less than $700 and I could have bought an original and complete sniper for $500 over that .

OP,
Scrap the screw on device and find one of the sleeves that screw on to protect the threads . They came in metal and soft plastic , either works bot the blued metal looks better . I tried several rifles with the device you mentioned attached and it did not improve the accuracy but it did seem to decrease the accuracy of one of the rifles a small amount . Take some cell phone pictures and post them , need to see the cuts to the stock you mentioned . Mine have no cuts that were not normal to the '96 but do exhibit some marks that look like they were stepped on by someone wearing hobnail boots . I have several like that .

[Eddie Southgate]

Thanks so much for all the great responses! Got out a few of my 6.5 molds tonight and was trying to figure out which bullet to try first. I bought Lymans latest a few years back, but have an NEI mold from back in the 80's that I had made with 2 different cavities in the same mold. One is 130 grs. and the other is 160 grs. Really like the looks of that 160 gr. bullet; might start with that...........................

Ray1946,
Read all the posts you can find on loading for these rifles before you start with the cast . They can be rather particular about which cast bullets they will shoot . Jacketed bullets , I haven't found one yet I can't make shoot . My Ruger carbine is not picky and shoots cast and condom equally well . The Ruger shoots the Lyman 266469 into tiny puddles but none of my Swedes seems to like it much though I am still trying to figure out how to make them shoot it .

[beemer]

I bought one with the flash suppressor, put it in a lathe and cut it off. Left the threaded part and used it as a thread protector.

[Fishman]

Fishman,

I looked at a 96 at Larry's West in Madison Alabama yesterday , price was $999 and change + tax . Last one I saw for sale prior to that was at the Reloading Bench in Mount Juliet Tennessee it was right at $800 , that was several years ago . Hard to call that undervalued considering they were in the $200-350 range when I bought mine . MY CG63 cost me less than $700 and I could have bought an original and complete sniper for $500 over that .

OP,
Scrap the screw on device and find one of the sleeves that screw on to protect the threads . They came in metal and soft plastic , either works bot the blued metal looks better . I tried several rifles with the device you mentioned attached and it did not improve the accuracy but it did seem to decrease the accuracy of one of the rifles a small amount . Take some cell phone pictures and post them , need to see the cuts to the stock you mentioned . Mine have no cuts that were not normal to the '96 but do exhibit some marks that look like they were stepped on by someone wearing hobnail boots . I have several like that .

Wow, I had no idea they had increased that much in the past couple years. My personal thought was that they couldn't be duplicated even with today's technology for less than $1500, so those prices aren't really out of line. You got me to thinking and I can't remember seeing any for sale locally in quite a while.

My first one cost me $79. My last one cost me $375. A couple of my friends gave me some grief about that one, but it is beautiful, unthreaded with a unit disc and tiger striping the entire length of the gun. I couldn't get my money out fast enough.

[Ray1946]

Fishman; I got mine last year in April at Cabelas, just shy of $500.00. I really like the build and the quality. I am planning on shooting this old rifle with lead boolits ONLY!!! Recently got the publication"Vintage Military rifle" from CMP and think this might be the place for competing with these old battle rifles. There is a young fella on Youtube who does a thing called Run n' Gun and he does this with a Swedish Mauser amongst others, very interesting.........................

[Stewbaby]

Credit ‘Crown Jewels’ in blank firing adapter info (why it’s threaded)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211213/034cd0399c59c58dbf1db0d0f4581818.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211213/ac8c080dd204988b7c4d4973b108fb8d.jpg


practice wooden blanks, m/14, and bfa:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211213/b2fcb94e53faab8df49cfa367572d100.jpg

The m/96 and m/38 ‘flash hiders’, as mentioned, are aftermarket importer gimmicks.

[Hahndorf1874]

Saeco 140gn mould ,we use depleted Lino @ 20bn, drops about 136 gns, 18 gns 2207(H4198) will run about 1.5” 100 yds,open sights. All day. Cheers Mal in au. Our thoughts go out to all our US friends in the path of that tornado,stay safe!!

[Ray1946]

Stewbaby; on the bottom rifle of the three shown there is "T" on the front sight block, what does it stand for ?...........................

[Stewbaby]

Stewbaby; on the bottom rifle of the three shown there is "T" on the front sight block, what does it stand for ?...........................

It means the sights were corrected for use with the m/41 spitzer ammo after it was adopted.

…most times, in an effort to save money, they just put a range correction plate/sticker on them vs revising the sights.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/f5edfb98e8698255caf20dfc7eae65fe.jpg

[Stewbaby]

Some cast boolit options and others Swedish pointy things.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/4c909d52774ebdbe4804dbfacdcd84c0.jpg

[Ray1946]

Thanks for the great photos!...........................

[Dutchman]

Some cast boolit options and others Swedish pointy things.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211214/4c909d52774ebdbe4804dbfacdcd84c0.jpg

What you have marked as "Dutch" round nose should be Danish.

[Hahndorf1874]

We avoid boat tail pills, flat base performs much better in the 96 military chamber! Cheers Mal in au.

[Stewbaby]

We avoid boat tail pills, flat base performs much better in the 96 military chamber! Cheers Mal in au.

They all perform well. The military m/41 spitzer round (with its slight boat tail) is as good as it gets in Swedish Mauser ammo and the hand loaded SMK and Hornady match w/ R22 perform similar.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211215/b9150e323685bcd744787f314dca86a9.jpg

[Stewbaby]

What you have marked as "Dutch" round nose should be Danish.

Yes Sir, correct…stupid American here…I’d fixed it on the computer but not on the one on my phone, oops.

PS: can you add that round to your web site and mention the soft jacket issues?

[Eddie1971]

I use this mold for my Swede sized to .266 and it works real nice over 31 grains of IMR4895.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/264-6-5mm/268-140-fn-bm3/268-140-fn-bm3-4-cavity-gc/

I want to eventually get one of these since I think it may work better in the old M96 with that heavier weight.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/264-6-5mm/269-163-rn-w6/269-163-rn-w6-4-cavity-gc/

[Ray1946]

Eddie; what kind of velocity were you getting from the 31 grs. of 4895?

[Eddie1971]

Eddie; what kind of velocity were you getting from the 31 grs. of 4895?

I never chronoed the round since I don't own one unfortunately....