Oldfeller
10-18-2021, 01:01 PM
:mrgreen:
https://www.amazon.com/Epica-Best-Professional-Clipper-Large/dp/B00FU6PDLU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1J5X7VSAI8FXQ&dchild=1&keywords=epica%2Bdog%2Bclippers&qid=1634574714&sr=8-2&th=1
290435 ------ Remember to buy the BIG ONE !!!!
Into each life a little bullet pulling action must fall ........
:-(
I have found (likely rediscovered, really) the cheapest and best way to pull a jacketed bullet in a reuseable fashion.
Extend your loaded shell above the naked surface of your press hole. Take the two opposing flat bottomed sharp jaws and lightly grip the bullet right above the case/bullet junction. I touch the surface of the bullet and then slide down the bullet until the case mouth stops the sliding motion. THIS MAKES FOR VERY FAST AND VERY ACCURATE PLACEMENT OF THE CUT MARK RIGHT AT THE CASE MOUTH.
Then I finger grip the handles very lightly and and reverse the handle motion to pull the bullet. You will grip too tightly for the first one and you will quickly learn the sharp jaws grip incredibly well and as such far less grip force is need than you dreamed possible. A small sliver shaped no depth slice cut divot ("smallest possible" grip force divot is desired) so drop the grip force down to the point the bullets just stop wanting to slip during removal.
The slice cuts you will leave are really meaningless when firing the reused bullets as the forcing cone of the gun will take them out if they are left protruding, but us perfectionists tune the re-installation depth of the bullet to put the sliver just under the edge of the case mouth so the taper crimp just rests upon it (I like to renew the crimp zone to a fresh edge anyway). A roll crimp job also can use the tiny sliver space to "make it all go away" .......
Or, like me "ignore it as meaningless" as the throat at the end of the chamber or the forcing cone in a revolver takes it out completely.
The cutter edges on the blades gets dull over time, so get a round file (chainsaw file) or a round honing stone or some fine sandpaper around a wooden dowel and sharpen it up occasionally. You will like the way the tool sits flat on all normal presses and it sits flat on the Lee 3 and 4 hole turret presses on any unused hole station ---- all equally flat and equally easy to use.
Advantages:
Quick !!!
Fits all bullets.
Minimal skin only circular sliver mark on the bullet (put it back such that it is under the case mouth and it functionally simply isn't there any more). Once the bullet transitions the throat the mark really isn't there anymore, by definition the act of engaging the throat and the rifling takes it out completely.
This tool will pull a 50 cal bullet down to a 0 caliber bullet and it will pull jacketed, lead or powder coated with equal ease.
I enjoy finding a cheaper AND BETTER better way of doing things and this qualifies. If you have no dog that needs his nails clipped, you can take off all the depth stop hardware as it just gets in the way for bullet pulling.
ADD YOUR COMMENTS TO THE THREAD BELOW.
https://www.amazon.com/Epica-Best-Professional-Clipper-Large/dp/B00FU6PDLU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1J5X7VSAI8FXQ&dchild=1&keywords=epica%2Bdog%2Bclippers&qid=1634574714&sr=8-2&th=1
290435 ------ Remember to buy the BIG ONE !!!!
Into each life a little bullet pulling action must fall ........
:-(
I have found (likely rediscovered, really) the cheapest and best way to pull a jacketed bullet in a reuseable fashion.
Extend your loaded shell above the naked surface of your press hole. Take the two opposing flat bottomed sharp jaws and lightly grip the bullet right above the case/bullet junction. I touch the surface of the bullet and then slide down the bullet until the case mouth stops the sliding motion. THIS MAKES FOR VERY FAST AND VERY ACCURATE PLACEMENT OF THE CUT MARK RIGHT AT THE CASE MOUTH.
Then I finger grip the handles very lightly and and reverse the handle motion to pull the bullet. You will grip too tightly for the first one and you will quickly learn the sharp jaws grip incredibly well and as such far less grip force is need than you dreamed possible. A small sliver shaped no depth slice cut divot ("smallest possible" grip force divot is desired) so drop the grip force down to the point the bullets just stop wanting to slip during removal.
The slice cuts you will leave are really meaningless when firing the reused bullets as the forcing cone of the gun will take them out if they are left protruding, but us perfectionists tune the re-installation depth of the bullet to put the sliver just under the edge of the case mouth so the taper crimp just rests upon it (I like to renew the crimp zone to a fresh edge anyway). A roll crimp job also can use the tiny sliver space to "make it all go away" .......
Or, like me "ignore it as meaningless" as the throat at the end of the chamber or the forcing cone in a revolver takes it out completely.
The cutter edges on the blades gets dull over time, so get a round file (chainsaw file) or a round honing stone or some fine sandpaper around a wooden dowel and sharpen it up occasionally. You will like the way the tool sits flat on all normal presses and it sits flat on the Lee 3 and 4 hole turret presses on any unused hole station ---- all equally flat and equally easy to use.
Advantages:
Quick !!!
Fits all bullets.
Minimal skin only circular sliver mark on the bullet (put it back such that it is under the case mouth and it functionally simply isn't there any more). Once the bullet transitions the throat the mark really isn't there anymore, by definition the act of engaging the throat and the rifling takes it out completely.
This tool will pull a 50 cal bullet down to a 0 caliber bullet and it will pull jacketed, lead or powder coated with equal ease.
I enjoy finding a cheaper AND BETTER better way of doing things and this qualifies. If you have no dog that needs his nails clipped, you can take off all the depth stop hardware as it just gets in the way for bullet pulling.
ADD YOUR COMMENTS TO THE THREAD BELOW.