T/c 45

[0verkill]

Bought a rifle, been doing a bunch with muzzleloaders lately. All I know is it says T/C and 45 caliber and where it's made. Hooked breech similar to Traditions rifles. I found a picture of a Hawken and it looks the same. I'll get some pics up when I get it back together. The barrel is not cleaning up good and I may need a new one, need to know the model first to look though.

[Edward]

Bought a rifle, been doing a bunch with muzzleloaders lately. All I know is it says T/C and 45 caliber and where it's made. Hooked breech similar to Traditions rifles. I found a picture of a Hawken and it looks the same. I'll get some pics up when I get it back together. The barrel is not cleaning up good and I may need a new one, need to know the model first to look though.

Call Bob Hoyt as he does barrel lining quite reasonable

[Gtrubicon]

How are you cleaning it? How does it shoot?

[0verkill]

In the process, I'm done for the night. Gotta get some roundballs before I find out how it shoots. Looks really rough right now, but I've had some rough looking bores shoot good after knocking enough rust out to not cut the patch.

It was possibly dryballed, there's something way down at the bottom, but not deep enough to be anything more than a ball wadded up patch.

I'm pretty sure it's a Hawken, found a few listed here and there one as a "Flinklock". That's not a typo on my part, I copied and pasted. Then again traditional muzzleloaders are often simply all referred to as hawkens or muskets, albeit incorrectly.

I got a 32 barrel I'm working on too. Gotta get all my ducks in a row before I call him. With T/Cs being more popular,I might be able to find a used barrel cheap, who knows. Here's a couple bad photos.

290358
290359
290360
290361
290362

Tried to get the lock, breech hook, trigger guard and butt to help identify it, the whole rifle came out real blurry.

[hawkenhunter50]

Yeah that looks like a TC Hawken. They made a Renegade too that looks about the same but doesn't have the patchbox or a cheek piece.

[smithnframe]

That’s a T/C Hawken! Looks like it can be salvaged!

[LAGS]

I have two TC Hawkens and five Renegades that I salvaged.
They are well worth the time restoring them.
A couple had to have the barrels Rebored or Relined and I have two more barrels waiting to be sent to Bobby Hoyt just to be Refreshed as he calls it.

[Sasquatch-1]

Correct me if I am wrong, but arn't the Seneca and the Renegade shorter then the Hawkin's rifle? That would make a big difference in barrel length. I have a TC Hawken and had the shorter one with the patch box.

[Nobade]

Seneca and Cherokee have a 13/16" barrel. Hawken is 15/16" and Renegade is 1". Lengths varied depending on just what variation you got.

[725]

Nobade has some valuable research info above. Use your caliper to find out which you have. I always hate to see old T/C's neglected, but they make such good project guns. Not that you asked for my advice, but I'd soak the heck out of that barrel and have at it! You are going to end up with a real treasure. Hoyt has done several barrels for me, a rebore to a new caliber, a reline, and - as he calls it - "a refresh". His work is impeccable. Worse thing I could possibly say is that when I get a barrel back, the rifling is sharp and it cuts my patches until I shoot it some or lap it some. His machining is that precise. Not a bad chore to have :) ! Good luck.

[Old Footman]

725 is correct about Bob's work and about the sharp rifling. He has done approximately (12) of them for me over the years. Since the T/C .45 Hawken is a 15/16" across the flats barrel, Bob can bore it up to a .54 caliber. I normally have Bob do a 1-60" twist for round ball and they are extremely accurate and make for an excellent caliber for deer hunting. Bob's contact information:

Bob Hoyt
2379 Mt. Hope Road
Fairfield, PA 17320

# 717-642-6696

[pietro]

.

My .45 T/C Seneca (below, over my .36 Seneca) will be with me until I pass on.

Check your barrel thickness, as the downsized Seneca (13/16" bbl, thinner stock) is not rated for Hawken (15/16" bbl) powder charges.


https://i.imgur.com/vebulA7l.jpg

[0verkill]

It is the Hawken, the barrel is 15/16". Something else I was going to measure while I was in there and forgot it. The last 2 inches looks like the rifling is gone.

Anybody got an estimate for relining cost?

[Old Footman]

FYI on the T/C Hawken manual : https://www.tcarms.com/pdfs/uploads/manuals/Hawken_Manual.pdf

The last two inches could be what T/C called their "QLA Muzzle System". From the T/C site:

T/C's QLA® Muzzle System (Quick, Load, Accurizor) is basically a built in "false muzzle". Many old time target shooters used to attach a false muzzle to their rifle barrel for loading purposes, to guarantee precise alignment of the projectile during the loading procedure. They would then remove the "false muzzle" prior to shooting. The "false muzzle" also protected the rifling from being damaged or worn during loading. T/C's QLA® Muzzle is built right into the end of the barrel in all of our rifles permanently. It guarantees consistent alignment of your projectile in that it’s surrounded by steel for 360 degrees prior to being driven down the bore and engraved with the rifling. The projectile can't tilt, and the shape can't be altered (lead is soft) as it is started down the bore. This consistent alignment from shot to shot greatly improves the accuracy potential of the rifle by eliminating one of the variables associated with good accuracy... projectile alignment. T/C's QLA® Muzzle System also makes loading your second shot in the field much easier. You merely drop the projectile in the barrel and go straight to your ramrod, using short strokes to push the projectile down the bore. It eliminates the hassle of trying to align the projectile with one hand, and drive it into the rifling with a short starter.

[0verkill]

That's good to know. I knew pretty much nothing about T/C's yesterday, never had one pop up cheap enough, it/s all been CVA and Traditions. Learned quite a bit in a day between what I found on my own, learned from y'all and places you steered me towards. Thanks everybody. Found a mould here, now the waiting game.

[0verkill]

It's a patched ball or jag with a patch stuck in the bottom. I can see that it's white and when I finally found my ball puller I didn't getthe ball but got a few threads caught on the end out.

Breech is seized. I guess I'll flush it with alcohol to dry up the kroil and try to work enough powder in the drum to fire it out.

[LAGS]

Spray on carburator cleaner works well to get that oil out

[Sasquatch-1]

There are a couple of videos on YouTube about removing a stuck ball using a grease gun. You may want to look them up.

[mooman76]

An air compressor usually works too.

[0verkill]

I'd like to get the breech plug loose, but don't want to damage the barrel.

Don't have an air compressor and a tube and a half of grease costs more than a grain and a half of powder.

The annoying thing is I had a homemade bullet puller that worked great, just can't find it and too lazy to make a new one,but looks like I may have to make time.

[Old Footman]

FYI, you may want to soak the breech end in Kroil oil for about a week. During this period pick up a T/C 15/16th's breech plug removal wrench (example on link).

https://picclick.com/Breech-Plug-Removal-Wrench-15-16-Thompson-Center-Hawken-283131501267.html

Using this tool and a good wrench you should be able to spin off the breech plug. With that you can give it a good cleaning or have the barrel rebored or relined.

New breech plugs: https://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/667/1

If you are unsure on doing that job, I still would recommend Bob Hoyt on doing the work.

[idahoron]

I posted a video on using a grease gun. This method has no chance at damage to the gun. But I understand a lot of guys are "afraid " of the mess. My video shows there is no mess.
https://youtu.be/jCqp9odZISg

[0verkill]

Not afraid of the mess, just don't want to waste grease. I could scrape it back up in a bucket and use it to grease rails and such. I did check the local Tractor Supply and the have the right size fitting in stock, I still don't know where my grease gun is at though. I've been soaking the Kroil back up and now have the option to try another penetrating oil (been looking up tests), pull it, shoot it or grease it out. I got my roundball mould in the mail yesterday, so I have to get it ready as soon as my back will let me sit in front of a pot for a few minutes.

[mooman76]

Try the easiest and first and save the grease for last.

[pietro]

.

You will damage the barrel if you don't use a T/C Hawken breech plug wrench

https://i.imgur.com/KPGAZffh.jpg

[Buzzard II]

It will take off bluing and artificial case coloring, but it eats up ONLY rust-EVAPO RUST-works great. Get off all oil/grease and let it soak. Solution is re useable and will not damage skin. Use capped/glued pvc pipe to soak barrel. Like I said it eats bluing so you have to reblue or brown your barrel, but if it's rusted so what. Arrow Wood Products has cold blueing that works good without heat. Great wood restorer too. No I'm not connected with them, never was either, but I saw it work years ago at a gun show and have been a believer ever since. Good luck.
Bob

P.S. Bobby Hoyt has a hydraulic wrench to take off stuck breach plugs. A member of my team could not get his breach plug out and Bobby did.