Getting started casting.

[swingingblock2520]

I’ve been reloading since I was a teenager. Grandad was the caster and resident mad wildcatter. Sadly I never got in to casting,fast forward 25yrs and now it’s me teaching my daughters reloading and want to add casting to our repertoire. Besides that,it seems I inherited the mad wildcatting gene from poppop lol I have several hundred pounds of various alloys that I saved from pops loading shack before the sale back in 1998 as well as more babbit of various grades and types that I’d even venture to guess the weight of that I’ve saved out of engines and machines I’ve serviced,rebabbited or scrapped over the years.

I have a couple of his molds but nothing else so I’ll be buying some molds for calibers we shoot and load for. As far as smelting for molding and melting for casting,can one melt our alloys in a gas forge? I’ve shod horses as a sideline for 20yrs and my propane forge can be ran hot enough to forge weld steel or ran at a low enough pressure to work aluminum hot but not turn in to a puddle on the liner.

Thanks in advance for any tips,hints and advice.

[Land Owner]

700* F (+ or-) is all you need to turn lead and it's alloys into a remoldable puddle. Your propane forge is more than adequate for the task.

Boolit mold availability may be problematic as the country hordes. Higher quality mold manufacturers may have inventory, but expect to pay more.

Buy once - cry once. In the long run you will be glad you did. Inflationary pricing is problematic.

YMMV
- brass before steel before aluminum as the mold material
- 6, 8, 10 cavity molds before 2 & 4 cavity before 1 cavity
- mold handles are ordinarily sold separately
- use in a well ventilated space
- flux the melted alloy with sawdust, which smells good (SYP and Cedar), and is easy to make
- flux keeps alloy constituents in solution
- I like 49-49-2 percent Pb-WW-Sn alloy for handguns and handgun calibers in long guns
- I like Keith style boolit shapes.
- while I dabble in hollow points I think I prefer solid flat "points" that look as if they will sting a mite going through

[Bad Ass Wallace]

I use a cast iron camping pot and a propane torch, has served me well for over 40 years!

https://i.imgur.com/W6rXrgDl.jpg

[trapper9260]

Also get a hot plate to preheat your molds. It will make it easy to cast with and when have a new mold clean it of the oil. How you treat a mold is how long it will last you. you can have a cheap mold last your life time depending on how it is used. Land Owner is on for what all he wrote. also for flux you can use wax too , i use ground corn cobs the same I use for tumble my brass for cleaning. I like Keith style boolits also. I make my own boolit lube , you have that way or some dose powder coating . Ask and search on here you will find alot you need . Many here to help.

[swingingblock2520]

Thanks guys. I wish I’d have paid more attention to pops when he was casting,if I could turn back the hands of his old rolex and bring him back I would lol. Buddy of mine down at my Local said he has a bunch of molds and reloading equipment that belonged to his late father that wanted to find a home for as he does not hand load I’m gonna call him today to see if he’s home or on a travel gig. If he’s home I’m gonna go look at them,is there anything in particular I should look for? With to stay away from or something that’s desired. Figure I can make him an offer on all of it and bring it all home to clean up. Keep what I can use and pass the rest on to my brothers and sister leadheads here on the old boolit.

[MrWolf]

Thanks guys. I wish I’d have paid more attention to pops when he was casting,if I could turn back the hands of his old rolex and bring him back I would lol. Buddy of mine down at my Local said he has a bunch of molds and reloading equipment that belonged to his late father that wanted to find a home for as he does not hand load I’m gonna call him today to see if he’s home or on a travel gig. If he’s home I’m gonna go look at them,is there anything in particular I should look for? With to stay away from or something that’s desired. Figure I can make him an offer on all of it and bring it all home to clean up. Keep what I can use and pass the rest on to my brothers and sister leadheads here on the old boolit.

Be smart about cleaning moulds - no wire wheels, dremels, etc. Search function will be your friend. Good luck.

[Daekar]

The biggest frustration I have encountered during my entire learning experience with casting has been lead and powder coat shaving off during the boolit seating process. Since lead needs to be a bit bigger than jacketed, some dies just aren't the right size. If they're available, get a set of "Cowboy" dies for the caliber you're going to cast, they should have the right expander diameter and enough clearance on the seating die.

Your forge will be more than enough, but you may want to consider a bottom pour pot... they really are incredibly convenient.

[oley55]

Thanks guys. I wish I’d have paid more attention to pops when he was casting,if I could turn back the hands of his old rolex and bring him back I would lol. Buddy of mine down at my Local said he has a bunch of molds and reloading equipment that belonged to his late father that wanted to find a home for as he does not hand load I’m gonna call him today to see if he’s home or on a travel gig. If he’s home I’m gonna go look at them, is there anything in particular I should look for? With to stay away from or something that’s desired. Figure I can make him an offer on all of it and bring it all home to clean up. Keep what I can use and pass the rest on to my brothers and sister leadheads here on the old boolit.

I guess it all depends on what you see and what your friend is asking, but if the prices seems reasonable I'd probably try to buy the whole lot. Those you don't want or need can easily be swapped for what you need in swap-n-sale.

I picked up this lot of casting molds n stuff about 5+/- years ago for an embarrassing low $25 when I was still just thinking about casting, and later picked up a couple more used molds mixed in with other buys. Only one of the Lee aluminum molds turned out to have been mutilated beyond use (but not from the lot pictured).

[Hanzy4200]

Congrats on starting the hobby. I strongly suggest you look into a bottom pour pot. It makes things much easier.

[ryanmattes]

When I started, I started out old school. I picked up a cheap pot and ladle, and found a few old iron Lyman Keith 1 or 2 cavity molds for .357, .44, and .45. cleaned them up and started casting. I posted pictures here to figure out what I was doing wrong, until I had bullets good enough to load.

By old school I mean I started out loading for .,45 Colt using Elmer Keith's design, ladle poured and air cooled, making my own lube from beeswax and vasoline, pan lubing on a hot plate, and cutting them out with a cut-down 300 win mag case. Starting with the basics helped me understand all the parts of the process.

When I got that right, then I started varying the process, introducing newer molds, playing around with powder/poly coatings, and getting a little more experimental. It took me about 2 years to get really comfortable troubleshooting molds or issues with the resulting bullets without asking here first, and I still come back here to ask questions and read other people's questions and results. There's more experience here than you can imagine.

Of course, just like reloading, if you ask a dozen people you'll get a dozen different opinions, but for the most part they're all right in one way or another.

Good luck, and don't be afraid to ask questions. This is a very helpful group.

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

[swingingblock2520]

Oley55, he is interested in trading some machine work on a banshee top end and some frame work from where it was wrecked when it got stolen last year.

[oley55]

Oley55, he is interested in trading some machine work on a banshee top end and some frame work from where it was wrecked when it got stolen last year.

LOL, it was listed on the Florida Gun Trader long before the current craziness was going on. That pic is from the listing. I don't recall any questionable warning signs when I picked them up at his house. Just something he wasn't interested in doing anymore, but even then I recognized the Lyman and RCBS mold handles were worth more than I paid. I cleaned everything up and put them away for the next four years or so.

If I had wanted or needed this cache you can bet it wouldn't have been available or affordable.

[Daekar]

The Lyman "M" will solve your problem.

I actually tried that and it didn't work. The big problem for me turned out to be a super tight ID on my Redding seating die that pushed the case mouth back in.

[swingingblock2520]

LOL, it was listed on the Florida Gun Trader long before the current craziness was going on. That pic is from the listing. I don't recall any questionable warning signs when I picked them up at his house. Just something he wasn't interested in doing anymore, but even then I recognized the Lyman and RCBS mold handles were worth more than I paid. I cleaned everything up and put them away for the next four years or so. ,

If I had wanted or needed this cache you can bet it wouldn't have been available or affordable.

That’s the way it goes brother. When you don’t need something people are sellling by the railcar wholesale,but when you need said item all of the sudden it’s a rare,one of a kind hand made item made by John Moses browning him self lol

[Larry Gibson]

Suggest you download the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3, read and study the front part. That will give you the tried and true basics. Learning the basics first may be old school and last century but you will learn how to cast good/excellent bullets much better and quicker. Learning off the internet, even this site, may prove frustrating and disappointing without learning the basics first.

[oldhenry]

I actually tried that and it didn't work. The big problem for me turned out to be a super tight ID on my Redding seating die that pushed the case mouth back in.

Redding has a track record of problems with the seating die being too tight & removing the case bell during the seating operational. You can get 10 Lyman "M" dies and seat with that Redding seat die & you'll have the same problem. The Lyman does exactly as it was designed (a good die). The problem is the Redding seating die. I know: I sent one back to them 2 times before they got it right & when they finally got it right they attached a note "adjusted as per customer's request" ( a disclaimer?). Mine was a 38 spec./.357.

[405grain]

"I actually tried that and it didn't work. The big problem for me turned out to be a super tight ID on my Redding seating die that pushed the case mouth back in."

I was having the same problem with an RCBS seating die in 44 magnum. I've found that the best way to prevent shaving lead or powder coat when seating a boolit is a three step operation. First, there has to be enough flair on the case mouth for the base of the boolit to begin entering the case. It doesn't have to look like a tuba, but the boolit base should just start into the case. Second: use a seating die that won't squeeze down the flair as the boolit is being seated. I use a 45 Colt seating die to seat the boolits in 44 magnums that I load. Third: make seating and crimping a separate operation. You can seat and crimp a jacketed bullet in one operation, but if you try doing that with a cast bullet it might shave lead just before the bullet is fully seated. On bullets for revolvers a crimp is necessary to prevent the recoil from pulling the bullets forward out of the case like an inertia puller, and locking up the cylinder. On rifles that have tubular magazines a crimp is desirable to keep the bullet from getting shoved back into the case under recoil. On bolt actions and single shots the case neck (generally) only needs enough "crimp" to take the bell out of the case mouth.

I also recommend the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3. It's a gold mine of information.

[swingingblock2520]

Larry Gibson,
I actually have that in my library along with granddads wildcatters bibles. it’s #4 if that matters,I picked it up at bass pro. I have no problem with old school,I’ve served 2 apprenticeships,I still read actual books and I prefer to load my own fodder for my guns lol

[swingingblock2520]

#3 should be in transit to me tomorrow,I scored a copy on eBay for $25+free shipping. I downloaded the virtual copy on my iPad but I prefer an actual book I can hold and feel.

[swingingblock2520]

Me too nico,I’ve always been a bibliophile,I still read a book a week on average. All types & topics,growing up on a dairyfarm,having a library card allowed me to travel the world,back in time,distant worlds,galaxies lol basically anywhere except on a dairyfarm in West Virginia lol

[VariableRecall]

From my smaller perspective as someone relatively new to both reloading and casting, I'd say it's very important to find a casting setup that works for you. It doesn't have to be fancy, just accommodating to your needs, comfortable to operate, safe, and stable. I wouldn't want to say you should go entirely on instinct, but just make sure that everything you set up is accessible and stable. For me, covering work surfaces in cardboard followed by dollar store aluminum pans. I don't really have space for dropping boolits into cold water but I've experienced no issues with just letting them all air cool.
290434

[farmbif]

might I add to your reading list
right at top of this page that ive included a link to is a free download called from ingot to target, a cast bullet guide for hand gunners by glen fryxell
its well worth the time reading

http://www.lasc.us/ArticleIndex.htm

[swingingblock2520]

Thanks guys,any book suggestions for reloading,casting,gunsmithing,shooting or any topics are always welcomed. Books are knowledge and you can put a numismatic value on education as far as I’m concerned.

[GregLaROCHE]

Before you start buying molds, you should slug your bore(s) to know the correct Boolit diameter you need. There are plenty of posts on how to slug your bore and calculate the correct boolit diameter. As Mr Wolf said, use the search engine.

[RogerDat]

I find number of cavities requires balancing productivity against weight and fatigue while casting. Also what I'm feeding makes a difference as does how much I enjoy casting itself. I have a favorite 2 cavity iron mold. Casts a nice WC for a 38 special. Not hard to make plenty to feed a revolver. Autoloaders can be when it is really hard to keep up with a 1 & 2 cavity mold. Revolvers and bolt guns I don't think it matters as much about how many cavities the mold has. Finding the mold that gives good accuracy in your firearm is always a joy.

Brass and iron molds are heavy compared to aluminum. Some such as MP or NOE make pretty high quality aluminum molds. Lee aluminum are inexpensive, functional but one can tell the difference in the heft and quality. The Lee 6 cavity I think are better built than their 2 cavity. More mass helps a mold maintains a consistent temp. It also makes the thing heavy.

[popper]

About any elec melter will do, bottom pour is easier (your forge may become a pita). Use WAX to flux (clean your alloy) when pouring bullets. Sawdust is OK for melting ingots. One or two hole moulds for rifle, multiple for pistol is fine. Hot plate will get your mould up to proper casting temp. What size for your bullets and what kind of alloy (much of your stash may be unknown)? You will need an oversized case expander for cast bullets. Also flare case mouth. Post your cals. you load and you will get recommendations. Starting loads from a reliable source is good for most cast shooting. If you want to shoot rifle stuff fast, gas checked mould is needed. LLA, BLL are great general lubes (several recipes for alox/wax based lubes).

[swingingblock2520]

Greg,slugging bores & chamber casting is one of the first things I do when I get something new. It’s a practice I picked up early on when I got in to building and shooting vintage snipers,especially my old 91/30s, they can have quite a wide margin of bore variance.

[VariableRecall]

About any elec melter will do, bottom pour is easier (your forge may become a pita). Use WAX to flux (clean your alloy) when pouring bullets. Sawdust is OK for melting ingots. One or two hole moulds for rifle, multiple for pistol is fine. Hot plate will get your mould up to proper casting temp. What size for your bullets and what kind of alloy (much of your stash may be unknown)? You will need an oversized case expander for cast bullets. Also flare case mouth. Post your cals. you load and you will get recommendations. Starting loads from a reliable source is good for most cast shooting. If you want to shoot rifle stuff fast, gas checked mould is needed. LLA, BLL are great general lubes (several recipes for alox/wax based lubes).

I personally use Gulf Wax for flux. Simple enough to get, and seems to me to do a good job. Also it doesn't smell unpleasant either.

[swingingblock2520]

I’d like to cast for pistol rounds I shoot,9,40,357sig,38super&special,45gap,7.62tok,7.65/30 Luger and when I build another breech loading Stevens I want to shoot cast in it as well as building a little .38 rook. I’ve been loading cast .30 Luger for my brothers pistol for some time but his source for cast 7.65 swc has passed on so I’ll need to cast for him as well.

[gwpercle]

There was some wise conversation about mould weight , a person's age / hand strength and fatigue and balancing it all (post #31) . I'm 70 now and age is rearing it's ugly head .
All of my experience had been with 2 cavity Lee aluminum moulds and Lyman iron moulds .
My first custom aluminum mould was a 4 cavity from NOE ...it's a lot heavier than two Lee moulds , in fact it's about as heavy as I can / care to use ... I don't have any hand problems ... I was a Draftsman who drew with pencil and pen for 48 years ...they work fine ... I'm 70 .
But what I'm saying ... is don't buy a 4 cavity brass mould unless you have great hand / arm strength and no problems like rotator cuff or wrist joint problems .
In fact the last 4 moulds I bought from NOE ... I got 3 cavity aluminum ... for two reasons , weight is less than 4 cavity ,I can cast / last longer and one ladle full of alloy will fill 3 cavities ... 4 cavity runs out on #4 so I have to fill ladle pour 2 , refill ladle and fill the other 2 . Faster just to cast three with one ladle full .
So if you're buying a new mould ... consider your physical condition and mould weight ... brass moulds are heavy !
hopefully we will all get older ... them Lee 1 and 2 cavity moulds are looking good again !
Gary

[Wooserco]

#3 should be in transit to me tomorrow,I scored a copy on eBay for $25+free shipping. I downloaded the virtual copy on my iPad but I prefer an actual book I can hold and feel.

Not to mention: add handwritten notes to, bookmarks and just the tactile feel. We shoot, we cast our own bullets, we load our own ammo. We're a tactile, hands on, feeling group.

[Wooserco]

I got that book from my uncle when I bought a lot of his casting/shooting equipment. Additionally, I was fortunate enough to have the mentorship of a couple very close shooting/casting buddies. I learned to cast from Lester on a kitchen stove (with ventilation), cast iron frying pan and a Lyman ladle. Slowly progressed to the point that I was shooting High Power Rifle competition at 200 and 300 yards with cast in my rifle (same charge of 2400 as my .44 mag) and my cast load sight setting for 300 yards was the same as my 600 yard setting for jacketed at 600 yards. Sometimes, the stars align!

Lester introduced me to high power rifle competitive shooting. May he rest in peace.