Lyman 320366 mold?

[RyanJames170]

I got a Lyman 320366 mold along with some others, kinda a pointy bullet, what I was wondering is could a guy size something that drops around 323 ish down to maybe .316 for use in something around a .314 bore?
I am trying to find a use for this mold as it’s to small for my 8mm K98

[Mk42gunner]

I don't know. That is a lot of sizing to do without totally wiping off the lube grooves.

Robert

[Green Frog]

I fear you would end up smearing the grease grooves out of existence or certainly distorting them to the point of uselessness. What you are talking about here is more like swaging than sizing. It could prove unsuccessful to the point of frustrating. [smilie=b: IMHO, you would have better luck swapping that mould off (if you can’t use it in another gun) and finding a mould closer to your desired diameter.

Froggie

PS that mould should prove to be very useful in a 32-40 or other 32 rifle cartridge, especially an older one with a slightly oversized bore.

[45-70 Chevroner]

Normally 3 to 4 thousandth is as far as you can go down and 4 is pushing it.

[DonHowe]

I got a Lyman 320366 mold along with some others, kinda a pointy bullet, what I was wondering is could a guy size something that drops around 323 ish down to maybe .316 for use in something around a .314 bore?
I am trying to find a use for this mold as it’s to small for my 8mm K98

Fill the lube grooves first, that should prevent collapsing, then size in at least 2 steps.

[45-70 Chevroner]

Fill the lube grooves first, that should prevent collapsing, then size in at least 2 steps.

From experience I can assure you that won't work. When you size down that far it will wipe out the lube groves.

[RyanJames170]

What would be the thoughts about dropping down to .318 to .319?

[Green Frog]

That should work OK. It looks like this was originally for 8mm rounds, but the 32 family should also be within reach.

Froggie

[RyanJames170]

I kinda figured being it’s 320 sizing on the mold that it was ment for shooting 8x57 that had the .318 bullets not the .323 as I’ve found most 8x57s that are chambered for the .323 bullets to be over .323 hence there is Lee mold out there that drops something like .327 ish that was specifically made for 8mm mauser in k98’s and the alike.

[45-70 Chevroner]

I kinda figured being it’s 320 sizing on the mold that it was ment for shooting 8x57 that had the .318 bullets not the .323 as I’ve found most 8x57s that are chambered for the .323 bullets to be over .323 hence there is Lee mold out there that drops something like .327 ish that was specifically made for 8mm mauser in k98’s and the alike.

What are you wanting to shoot it in? You will have to order a custom sizing die for a 318 or 319. I don't think there are any common dies in those sizes.

[RyanJames170]

a clapped out mosin that i have another thread about. as its to small for the only 8x57 i have.

[Harter66]

Im working on an 7.7 Japanese that would shoot it as cast .

The American 32s are .321 nominal .

[45-70 Chevroner]

a clapped out mosin that i have another thread about. as its to small for the only 8x57 i have.

I think .318 or .319 will be to big for your mosin, most Russian mosins have .314 bore.

[quilbilly]

Maybe this is a sign. A couple years back I picked up an old Lyman mold as a door prize which I thought was a 7mm mold. Shortly after, I realized it was a mold for a 270. I didn't have a 270. Three weeks later I was gifted an old Sears 270 (actually a Win Mod 70 made for Sears). You never know what might happen.

[RyanJames170]

I think .318 or .319 will be to big for your mosin, most Russian mosins have .314 bore.

The Mosin I have has a pretty bad bore that dose measure out to .318 in the groves and .303/.305 on the lands.

[45-70 Chevroner]

The Mosin I have has a pretty bad bore that dose measure out to .318 in the groves and .303/.305 on the lands.

If you have a 314 H&I die you can hone it out with very fine wet and dry sand paper using an appropriate size wood dowel. You will have to go at it kind of slow and check it with a fresh boolit until you get to the size you want.

[RyanJames170]

With the rifle getting a bullet mold to fit is the easy part with that rifle, getting a bullet to fit into the neck aria of the chamber with enough clearance to shoot is a whole other problem. As the neck aria in the chamber is barely fitting a .318 bullet, with no room for the case neck to expand.

[Oyeboten]

I got a Lyman 320366 mold along with some others, kinda a pointy bullet, what I was wondering is could a guy size something that drops around 323 ish down to maybe .316 for use in something around a .314 bore?
I am trying to find a use for this mold as it’s to small for my 8mm K98

Post some images of the Boolit or of the Mould Cavity?

Far as I recall, "320" ( or .321 ) were meant for the Smith & Wesson New Model 3 ".32 - 44" Target Revolver, or, for the Smith & Wesson
".320 Revolving Rifle", or, for the ".32 Ideal" Cartridge, and were not expected to be sized down.


.32 Winchester Special though was/is .321...


No idea who or what else ever used a .320 / .321 Bullet diameter as such.

[RyanJames170]

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ideal-320366-cast-bullet-mold-171032552

The mold listed here Is the one I have and what the bullet looks like

[Mk42gunner]

Wow, that is a pointy bullet.

I have never tried to cast and size one with anywhere near that ogive shape.

Robert

[Bent Ramrod]

There is no 320366 mould listed in the Ideal or Lyman handbooks. You may have a “rare” misstamping, or maybe the second “3” got clogged or dinged and didn’t impress right, but that mould is the 323366, a Spitzer design for the 8mm Mauser. If it casts at 0.323”, the actual nominal diameter, you have a good one. Some vintage Lyman and Ideal moulds were cut with cherries that some forgotten gun writer described as being “made to the absolute maximum allowable oversize, then used and resharpened down to the absolute irreducible minimum.” It would be a rare cavity that was cut while the cherrie was “just right.”

I’ve sized and lubed 0.314” boolits, then sized them to 0.311” and finally to 0.308” without changing anything but the diameter. These were cast of Lino-wheelwright scrap. As others have mentioned, three thou is about it for a sizing step, and you will need the grooves lubed, both to keep them from smearing or collapsing, and to lubricate them through the smaller dies.

I’ve never done a boolit that “pointy.” Your top punch had best be a very good fit, methinks.

[RyanJames170]

There is no 320366 mould listed in the Ideal or Lyman handbooks. You may have a “rare” misstamping, or maybe the second “3” got clogged or dinged and didn’t impress right, but that mould is the 323366, a Spitzer design for the 8mm Mauser. If it casts at 0.323”, the actual nominal diameter, you have a good one. Some vintage Lyman and Ideal moulds were cut with cherries that some forgotten gun writer described as being “made to the absolute maximum allowable oversize, then used and resharpened down to the absolute irreducible minimum.” It would be a rare cavity that was cut while the cherrie was “just right.”

I’ve sized and lubed 0.314” boolits, then sized them to 0.311” and finally to 0.308” without changing anything but the diameter. These were cast of Lino-wheelwright scrap. As others have mentioned, three thou is about it for a sizing step, and you will need the grooves lubed, both to keep them from smearing or collapsing, and to lubricate them through the smaller dies.

I’ve never done a boolit that “pointy.” Your top punch had best be a very good fit, methinks.

Oddly enough I think I ended up with the top punch for this mold, sadly this mold drops just to small for my kar 98 at .323, for it I need about .326 for the bullet.