Cast10
09-28-2021, 09:57 AM
Just finished my PID. Mypin TA4-SSR w/ 40amp SSR. Lee Pro 4 - 20
Did some minor testing two days ago. Running auto tune several times and I noticed;
Initially temps will overshoot/undershoot; 30-40;12-15. After several auto tunes, overshoot/undershoot was about 12-15; 2-5. Once it settles in it appears to be solid.
Now, the main issue was I cross checked temp with a tru-temp dial thermometer and a electronic thermometers. Dial thermometer was 40 or so cooler; Electronic was 20 or so cooler. I thought, well, I’ll just watch how the boolits come out and adjust.
So the next day during ‘live casting’ I set to 725 and started it up. Settled in at setpoint. Had mold on hot plate, and began pouring lead. I never looked back! Temp stayed at setpoint within 2 degrees or closer! Only sway in temp was when ‘cold’ lead was added in, and it didn’t take long to recover.
Thermometers were re-checked. Dial has the nut behind the dial and I hand tightened; it was within 10 degrees; Electronic was nearly identical; a heat gun on the pot side was spot on. Oh well, I guess I’ll believe the PID!
Takeaways;
Initially, run auto tune as many times as it takes. If it keeps overshooting/undershooting, let things cool and run again. I ran it 3-4 times before I was satisfied.
Believe the temp the PID says.
Record settings - Once done, record all settings, just in case. You can re-input if need be.
Initial overshoot is not a bad thing as long as it ‘settles in’ and holds.
Trust your judgement on temp - How the boolits come out. Adjust temp accordingly.
Find the right temp for you. 725 matches my cadence. Once after adding cold lead I began pouring at 712. Lead was not totally ‘set’ when I cut the sprue. Waited for 725 and all was fine.
Read the manual that comes with the PID. They are all a bit different, even older/newer same models.
Hope I’m on the right path and it helps others a bit to make a decision on adding a PID. If you have other issues, or see any with my operation, please don’t hesitate to ‘steer’ me right! I’m still new!
Did some minor testing two days ago. Running auto tune several times and I noticed;
Initially temps will overshoot/undershoot; 30-40;12-15. After several auto tunes, overshoot/undershoot was about 12-15; 2-5. Once it settles in it appears to be solid.
Now, the main issue was I cross checked temp with a tru-temp dial thermometer and a electronic thermometers. Dial thermometer was 40 or so cooler; Electronic was 20 or so cooler. I thought, well, I’ll just watch how the boolits come out and adjust.
So the next day during ‘live casting’ I set to 725 and started it up. Settled in at setpoint. Had mold on hot plate, and began pouring lead. I never looked back! Temp stayed at setpoint within 2 degrees or closer! Only sway in temp was when ‘cold’ lead was added in, and it didn’t take long to recover.
Thermometers were re-checked. Dial has the nut behind the dial and I hand tightened; it was within 10 degrees; Electronic was nearly identical; a heat gun on the pot side was spot on. Oh well, I guess I’ll believe the PID!
Takeaways;
Initially, run auto tune as many times as it takes. If it keeps overshooting/undershooting, let things cool and run again. I ran it 3-4 times before I was satisfied.
Believe the temp the PID says.
Record settings - Once done, record all settings, just in case. You can re-input if need be.
Initial overshoot is not a bad thing as long as it ‘settles in’ and holds.
Trust your judgement on temp - How the boolits come out. Adjust temp accordingly.
Find the right temp for you. 725 matches my cadence. Once after adding cold lead I began pouring at 712. Lead was not totally ‘set’ when I cut the sprue. Waited for 725 and all was fine.
Read the manual that comes with the PID. They are all a bit different, even older/newer same models.
Hope I’m on the right path and it helps others a bit to make a decision on adding a PID. If you have other issues, or see any with my operation, please don’t hesitate to ‘steer’ me right! I’m still new!