Lead melting pot recommendations

[JohnMcD348]

I haven't gotten into casting my own yet, but I've been collecting parts and pieces, especially lead. As for a pot, I figured I'd just go with a Lee setup, since most of my equipment is either Lee Presses or Hornady. But, I've been hearing a lot of bad about the melting pots from Lee. I've read and heard, more than place, that they tend to leak badly.
I think I'd prefer a pot that I can bottom pour instead of using a Ladel. Can anyone recommend one that's not many 100's of dollars? Or any input on what I've heard about the Lee units.
Also, is there any benefit of using a 220v pot versus a 110v pot? I'd assume, the 220 might heat faster and recover quicker? I'm completely new to all of this and trying to.learn what I can before I jump in with both feet.

Thanks.
John

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[farmbif]

both the RCBS and Lyman furnaces have been lookie loos for me all my life. after graduating from using an old stainless spoon and various dippers. I splurged on the smaller lee bottom pour pot, what lee calls the Production Pot IV and have used them for decades. yeah they might drip a little , I peel the pieces of solidified lead off the aluminum base and throw them back in the pot. my experience as far as the dripping has not been so bad that when I unplug the pot with it still full of molten lead it does not leak out or anything like that.
thinking about other things that might leak or drip. I dont think I ever owned a tractor that didn't leak or drip something or other.
one thing I do like about the small lee bottom pour pot is the spout is right in the front and putting a mold sprue plate up to it is easy to see and use. One thing I never do is put any type of dirty casting alloy into the pot. I melt , flux and clean all alloys in a cast iron pot and pour clean alloy into ingots. I only melt clean ingots in the lee production pot IV.
hope this helps. Yeah I guess if I had several hundred dollars laying around that I could spare I would buy the latest edition of the RCBS or Lyman pot or even jump right up to a Magma Master Pot.
For me, the little lee bottom pour pots serve well and cast all the bullets I can shoot.
as far as the 110/220 thing, unless the pot uses more than 15 amps at 110 volts I see no reason why to use 220 volt.
I seriously doubt that a 220volt pot would heat up any faster than a 220 volt pot, but Im not an expert on such things and dont have a 220 v pot to compare. I guess in Europe 220v is common.

[toallmy]

A lee 4 - 20 110 is a good investment , & if in a few years you decide to upgrade your lee pot will still be useful.

[Three44s]

Lee pots work.

All pots leak from time to time. Lee pots leak a little more than the average. With cleaning you can reduce leakage.

I put a ingot mold under the spout to catch the drips.

Three44s

[mdi]

I'm using a Lee Pro 4-20 for many years (25?) and like any tool if it is taken care of it will last thousands of hours. I will occasionally (when I think of it) empty and clean my Lee pot. Wire brush ID clean and lap valve, make sure all screws are tight (loc-tite some). Only clean alloy goes into my pot as any speck can lodge in needle valve assy and leak. I will continue to use my Lee 4-20 till it don't get haot anymore, then probably just fix it and use it some more...

FWIW; mention "Lee___" and you'll get defamitory remarks about whatever product you post about. Most are generated by ignorance, old wives tales and "internet wisdom". Do your own research/thinking and ignore "Lee Haters"...

[NyFirefighter357]

My Lee pots work just fine, like others have said keep the alloy & pot clean. Keep a screw driver on hand to settle the seat and if you have any major issue a little vale grinding compound on the seat does the trick. I have added lead weight to my handle as well to hold the valve tighter but mine are 10lb pots.

[Ed_Shot]

+1 for the Lee 4-20

[Carrier]

I have a 10 lb and 20 lb Lee pots. That 10 lb has cast a ton of lead and depending on what I’m doing I still use it more than the 20 lb. if you go with a Lee pot like as been said take the valve rod apart and use something like valve grinding compound or similar put it in a drill and spin it in the seat.
My 10 lb does not drip the 20 lb does drip a bit but nothing like I’ve heard others do. Using clean lead no matter what brand is just logical though no matter how clean you think you got it there will be some crap come out.
If you are going to get serious a PIDS is easy and cheap to make and does a great job.

[JohnMcD348]

FWIW; mention "Lee___" and you'll get defamitory remarks about whatever product you post about. Most are generated by ignorance, old wives tales and "internet wisdom". Do your own research/thinking and ignore "Lee Haters"...

Oh Yeah. Been listening to it for years. My 1st, and still only presses are Lee's. When I got started in reloading about 15 or so years back, I just wanted to make cheap reloads since my wife wanted to learn to shoot and it started getting expensive to buy new every weekend. I used the Midway Birthday discount to buy a Lee Loadmaster and Lee Anniversary kit and never looked back. They still load ammo better than I can shoot. Now, honestly, if I were trying to shoot Sub MOA 1000yd shots out of habit, I wouldn't be using Lee. I'd be using Hornady, Lyman, or one of those Super, High Dollar, single stage presses with sub micron adjustments.

From reading the comments here, I think I'll go with my initial plan and get one of the smaller Lee Pots. I'll do the polish on the valve rod. I'll need to break down the lead I do have right now. It's in huge blocks that was obviously made by using a large cast iron pot, and I even have a few that were made in hub caps. It's very old Lead. It sat in my parents back yard for about the last 40, or so years. I'll probably start off the same way, just to get t broken down to ingots.

I really appreciate the input guys. If there's any other things I might need to think about doing, don't hesitate to tell me.

John

[metricmonkeywrench]

A Lee 20# is probably the best place to start, one additional thing to think of in addition to all the above is that if you pick up a hollow point or hollow base mould with a traditional knob and pin setup you will need the extra height from the base to the pot spout to use them.

[Winger Ed.]

The usual cause for any bottom pour pot to leak is because the nozzle and or the rod has crud in/on it.

[Mk42gunner]

In the FWIW department, I have three bottom pour pots.

1. A Lee 4-20 that I bought new and lapped the seating surfaces before I ever warmed it up. I still get occasional drips from it, but no deluges of molten metal. You can easily ladle cast from this pot.

2. A Lee ten pounder, (Production pot IV, I think). Bought missing a few pieces at a pawn shop for $10, a few parts from Lee and I'm still under $20, including postage. The good-- The spout is out front and you can see what you are doing. The bad-- The only pot I have that has deluge emptied itself multiple times. I keep it in an aluminum turkey roaster pan. Don't even try to ladle from this one. the valve rod is way to easy to bump from the wire bail, then you have a deluge right now.

3. An RCBS Promelt, the first version. Bought used at an estate auction for $88. This was roughly a quarter of new price at the time. It is better than the Lee, not $2-300 better, but it is better. It also drips very occasionally. It can be ladled from, not quite as easy as the 4-20, but it works.

I also bought a Lee Magnum Melter (Ladle pot) last winter. Honestly if I had bought this one first, I don't think I would have ever gotten around to buying a bottom pour. I do use an RCBS lead Ladle with it, the Lyman dipper would be almost the same in use.

Robert

[Three44s]

The usual cause for any bottom pour pot to leak is because the nozzle and or the rod has crud in/on it.

All the bottom pours have their leak issues and need clean lead only.

For the cost savings, the Lee is worth the added issues.

Three44s

[Sasquatch-1]

I keep it in an aluminum turkey roaster pan. Don't even try to ladle from this one. the valve rod is way to easy to bump from the wire bail, then you have a deluge right now.


I agree with this. Get a cheap 9x12 cake pan just in case the pot decides to dump the entire contents. Although this has never happened to me I would still be cautious. Especially if you have the irresistible urge to relieve the morning meal while waiting for the pot to warm up.

I have been casting with mine for 45+ years and still use it for soft lead. Everything else mentioned I have done with mine and would encourage you to do the same if you get one.

The only other thing I don't think I saw mentioned is the addition of a PID temperature controller.

[GregLaROCHE]

I bought a Lee 20# pot because it was recommended a number of times. Yes you do need to fiddle with them and accept some drips. I have mine adjusted to get the maximum flow possible, because I am casting 400-500 grain boolits most of time. The lower the flow rate, the less mine drips. I can get no drips if I want, but the flow rate is too slow for me. It’s getting time to give the old pot an overhaul and lap the valve and seat, but it still works and fills my needs.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I've got 2 lee 20 lber's, one for ladling, one bottom pour - both work well. I thought I'd upgrade to RCBS, then they changed to the new style with electronics and the reviews have not been great, same with Lyman, other electric pots are very pricey. Lee haters are Lee haters, if Redding made a melting pot I'd buy it. Right now Lee may be the best available for the price and better than many. I can buy most any equipment out there and I still buy a lot of Lee stuff, with specialty dies (bushing dies, stuff like that) from Redding in the mix.

[JohnH]

I have a Lyman I picked up new at an estate sale for $100. I've used both the Lee Production IV (The IV barely keeps up with a 6 banger) and the 4-20. My 4-20 I've run for some 14 years or so. I've rebuilt it once, new pour spout and new stem. The rebuild helped with the drips but it still does and the Lyman drips too. The Lyman doesn't get as hot as the Lee. I'm glad I found the Lyman at the price I did, I wouldn't pay the new price for one and having this one proved my instinct right. It is a smoother running tool than the Lee. I keep a bit of 2 cycle oil on my casting bench and lube the lift handle where it goes around the pour spout on the Lee, this really helps with the tools smoothness. My "fix" idea for the Lee is to shape a piece of metal in a "Z" shape so it can be screwed to the top of the pot and have a small threaded bolt over the stem so that there is a true positive stop for flow control.

[John Guedry]

I have the 10# Lee,given to me by a friend about 20yrs ago. Its been dropped (when it was cold). Looks like the devil,but works fine. Yes it leaks but not badly.

[Cast10]

I’m a newby too. Started collecting last year, piece by piece. I purchased a 110v Lee Pro 4-20, and its been good. Can’t go wrong.
Now, that said, I am learning that as I establish my cadence for pouring lead into the mold, etc., the temperature maintained by the pot is critical. I need to know its all up to me and not the equipment. The Lee has a reostatic switch that is not terribly accurate. I have recently built a PID. I’d say start studying here on PIDs. I am a firm believer in maintaining the temp!

Good luck to ya! I’ve really enjoyed it!

[JohnMcD348]

Yes, thanks for that. I've been YouTubing a lot about the PIDs and will most likely build one, no matter what brand I get. I like playing with electronics also.

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[Old Caster]

I would way rather have a 20 pound pot than a 10 because in a 10, when you add lead it will cool down much quicker and when you wait for the lead to get back up to temperature your mold will come down unless you have a hot plate and even then the mold might get too hot or not be hot enough. It is an added expense but I use two pots and take melted lead from the second and add to the one I am pouring from so I never have to stop. If you use any of the Lee pots put some weight on the handle that dumps the lead so you will have better contact and less drips. The only difference between the Lee and an RCBS for drips is the RCBS puts more weight on the valve and you can twist the Lee valve but can't the RCBS.

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks for that input. I really appreciate it. I'm pretty decided on the 20lb pot. Now, I just have to find one. I saw one last night, online. Can't recall if it was Grafs or FS maybe. When I get home I'll get it ordered.

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[Mk42gunner]

I don't really think you need two pots to prevent a massive temp drop when adding lead, just preheat the ingots on the rim of the casting pot.

This is easily accomplished by making your own ingot molds from angle iron. BruceB (RIP) recommended 10½", primarily so the ingots would fit inside a fifty cal ammo can for storage. I find that anything in the range of 8 to 10½" works fine for resting across the pot rim, free heat. I also don't store my ingots in an ammo can, probably be better off if I did.

Robert

[Walks]

I preheat ingots on my hotplate.

[Sasquatch-1]

I used the 10 pound Lee for 45+ years and still use it. The trick with maintaining heat is to not let the contents get lower then about 2/3's full. When it gets that low drop in another 1.5 to 2 lb. ingot and keep pouring.

[lightman]

I realize that I'm late to the thread. Guess I missed it earlier? If I were to need a new casting pot I would defiantly get a 20# one. Its easier to flux, stir and skim with a bigger pot. It also takes longer to empty it, a good thing after you start getting good bullets. Larger is also better if you are using a gang mold and/or casting heavy bullets.

I don't know which brand I would choose. Both the Lyman and the RCBS got mixed reviews when they were both released. If I bought a new Lee pot I would lap the spout before ever using it. I'm really lusting after a Master pot!

As to voltage, the 220 volt pots are usually meant to be marketed in Europe. I think Farmbif mentioned this earlier.

[15meter]

I saw several references to ingots, I've you are considering an "Ingot" mold, look first at Muffin pans, they are way cheaper, and I think I had mine given to me because I said I was looking for some to cast with. I've seen them at the thrift stores for almost nothing. Also the dollar stores usually have them for cheap money.

My muffin pans cast a nice round chunk of lead in the 2-2-1/2 lb. range. And they fit perfectly in my RCBS pot, not sure about a Lee pot.

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks. That reminded me of seeing those, over the years, from others who cast. I'm sure I could probably find one around mine or.my.parents house that wouldn't be missed. I was thinking about trying to break down the lead I have around the house. They're large, 30lb and larger prices of lead that were melted in a large pot. Definitely bowl shaped. I was thinking about buying a cheap hot plate and a pot to melt them back down and ladel them into smaller pieces that would fit in the casting pot.

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[Sasquatch-1]

I was thinking about trying to break down the lead I have around the house. They're large, 30lb and larger prices of lead that were melted in a large pot. Definitely bowl shaped. I was thinking about buying a cheap hot plate and a pot to melt them back down and ladel them into smaller pieces that would fit in the casting pot.



Depending on how many of those 30# ingots you have a hot plate may not be the best option. It may not do the job at all.

If you are going to stay in the lead melting game get a turkey fryer with the red regulator, a cast iron Dutch oven and a propane torch. Use the torch to help heat those big ingots while trying to melt them. It will take a while to heat them through. I know this from buying the 31.5# isotope cores a while back. I think I'm still waiting for them to heat through.:grin:

[15meter]

Thanks. That reminded me of seeing those, over the years, from others who cast. I'm sure I could probably find one around mine or.my.parents house that wouldn't be missed. I was thinking about trying to break down the lead I have around the house. They're large, 30lb and larger prices of lead that were melted in a large pot. Definitely bowl shaped. I was thinking about buying a cheap hot plate and a pot to melt them back down and ladel them into smaller pieces that would fit in the casting pot.

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I can just about guarantee an electric hot plate won't cut it. My turkey fryer makes short work out of my 50 lbs. slabs of range lead. Goodwill is your friend, stainless steel pots, big stainless steel ladles and muffin pans will make quick work breaking down big chunks into perfect size muffins of lead. and the muffins stack quite nicely if the muffin pan is on a level surface when you fill them.

And you get another chance to flux the lead before it goes into your casting pot. Cleaner the lead you start with, the happier you will be. I use a wood stick to stir the pot. Doesn't transfer heat to your hand and provides flux at the same time.

You will read here about people using wood chips as flux. It works, if you choose to us a stick for stirring, make sure it is dry, not a limb you just cut off the tree outside your shop.

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks for the info. And ******, I just threw out my old Turkey frier because I hadn't used it in about 5, or more, years. Thats my luck.

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[Mwilson0173]

I have the lee 10lb and 20lb melters both drip. Not bad. As mentioned above just put the drips back in. Now I did make my own from 10" pipe welded a 3/8 bottom on and use a 20psi turkey burner and ladle it out. Its about 12" tall and I get over 150 lbs per melt providing I have enough to melt that much. But 5he lees have their worth being around. I always give a good cleaning after cool downs.

[Jim22]

There are melting pots and there are melting pots. With the firss post I assumed the OP was referring to pots in which to melt lead - what many of us call smelting. I must have been wrong, though. Every answer referred to bottom pour for casting boolits. I have both a Lee 10 lb bottom pour pot and a 20# Lee. Don't use the 20 lb pot because I only have one six cavity nould and my casting needs are rather small.

A couple things:

1. Back when I was castiing for .44 magnum I often used two Lee 10# pots - one above the other. I could cast boolits from the bottom pot and refill it when needed from the upper pot. I used the upper one to preheat ingots to liquid. It helped speed thtings up.

2. I want a pot for smelting. So far I have been using a 10" cast iron skillet but bigger would be better. I have an old 20 lb propane tank that no longer has a legal valve. Have been thinking of cutting it down and making a steel bowl for smelting. I'd really like something a bit smaller. Maybe 12" or so in diameter but deeper than the skillet. Does anyone have a suggestion?

Jim

[Mk42gunner]

...
2. I want a pot for smelting. So far I have been using a 10" cast iron skillet but bigger would be better. I have an old 20 lb propane tank that no longer has a legal valve. Have been thinking of cutting it down and making a steel bowl for smelting. I'd really like something a bit smaller. Maybe 12" or so in diameter but deeper than the skillet. Does anyone have a suggestion?

Jim
Jim, I used a short section of schedule 80 8" pipe and welded a bottom on of ¼" plate, very similar to MWilson0173's version. Mine will hold over 100 pounds of melted lead, which is enough for me at one time.

I also made a heat shield by tracing around it with a cutting torch on a brake drum, it does seem to help.

There are lots of recommendations for using a cast iron dutch oven, but I've seen too much cast iron crack to really want to do that (I have a bad habit of tapping the edge of the pan with the stirring utensil).

Robert

[Rich/WIS]

Muffin tins work fine but beware. Those made from one piece of aluminum are what you want. Those made by pressing cups into a flat piece of aluminum tend to come apart, the cups separating from the framework. When handling the filled tin be gentle, the thin aluminum bends easily when filled with lead. I drop ingots by grabbing the long edge in two places with pliers and flipping over rather trying to lift the tin.

[15meter]

Muffin tins work fine but beware. Those made from one piece of aluminum are what you want. Those made by pressing cups into a flat piece of aluminum tend to come apart, the cups separating from the framework. When handling the filled tin be gentle, the thin aluminum bends easily when filled with lead. I drop ingots by grabbing the long edge in two places with pliers and flipping over rather trying to lift the tin.

Mine are stamped steel, not sure if I would try with an aluminum pans. The steel ones can flex enough when full to make me leary of aluminum pans.

[robg]

lee 10lb pot has worked for 20 years for me .had to clean it once ,my fault for using dirty lead.just keep topping it up with sprues and ingots .does drip occasionally but i have my pot standing in an old oven tray to catch splashes etc.

[RogerDat]

In the FWIW department, I have three bottom pour pots.....

..... I also bought a Lee Magnum Melter (Ladle pot) last winter. Honestly if I had bought this one first, I don't think I would have ever gotten around to buying a bottom pour. I do use an RCBS lead Ladle with it, the Lyman dipper would be almost the same in use.

Robert

I bought the Lee Magnum Melter pot and a ladle and as Mk24gunner suggests I never moved on. I find it just works for my needs. It also offers some variability in how the mold is filled that a bottom pour doesn't. My best addition was a hot plate with a solid surface to pre-heat molds. The pid would I think be high on my list of things I would like but so far haven't sprung for the cost due to the fact I can fill molds just fine with a ladle and pot.

I do get the feeling from what other casters say that a bottom pour is really nice for some molds. Six cavity especially seem to get mentioned.

I would look to find a turkey fryer and cast iron dutch oven for melting lead so that you have a place to melt scrap and making ingots that keeps crud away from the casting pot.

[QuackAttack24]

290651290652
All of my ingot molds are from Goodwill. Cast iron ones are my favorite. My absolute favorite is the round cast iron cornbread pan. Makes perfect 2# ingots. Way cheaper and more functional than the commercially available ingot molds.

[Kg4mon]

I have a lee 4-20 pot that I’ve had for 20+ years at least. Still works great.

[MOA]

I've been using a turkey fryer and a cast iron pot for about 6 or 7 years. I needed a larger pot that held more so smelting and mixing alloys could be done more efficiently and faster. This is what I've been using.

https://i.postimg.cc/rmsPP3P8/20150129_161107.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1nxBgCST)

This was a 20 pound tank with an put of compliance valve that someone left at the rubbish transfer site that cost me nothing. The propane business was nice enough to remove the valve for no charge. He suggested when I told him I was going to cut the tank to melt lead he suggested I fill the tank with water and Dawn dish detergent an let it set for a couple of days and then rinse it out two or three times before cutting an fill it with water when I start the cutting. I cut mine a little higher than some but I wanted as much capacity as I could get out of it. I've planned a trapizoid shape stand that the pot will rest in an it will be tall enough that my current fryer stand will fit underneath the pot in the new taller stand. I've still got to weld the four angle iron tabs on the sides of the tank but this project has been on the back burner since last year so I'll keep any future updates posted on the "what did you do in the reloading room today thread.

https://i.postimg.cc/D0B26cBR/Screenshot_2021-10-30-15-03-22(1).png (https://postimg.cc/wRR8TDKk)

https://i.postimg.cc/RVpSnX3H/20211030_112425_HDR(1).jpg (https://postimg.cc/ZC3tGPxb)

https://i.postimg.cc/5y7VL2tV/20211030_112410_HDR(1).jpg (https://postimg.cc/BPKkGsDY)

https://i.postimg.cc/85gPzc7X/Screenshot_2021-10-30-15-03-28(1).png (https://postimg.cc/3y9HLKC2)

https://i.postimg.cc/Z5g5XV4S/Screenshot_2021-10-30-15-03-33(1).png (https://postimg.cc/jDHT76Dg)

[Sasquatch-1]

I cut down an old Freon tank, similar to your propane but about 2/3's the size. It work ok but I still don't think you can beat cast iron for heat transfer and melt time from a empty pot.

[MOA]

I cut down an old Freon tank, similar to your propane but about 2/3's the size. It work ok but I still don't think you can beat cast iron for heat transfer and melt time from a empty pot.

I figured since my goal was only getting my lead melted into ingot form the quickest way and having a great enough quantity to not have to pour small batches constrained due to pot capacity. With a high BTU burner along with my weed burning propane torch I can get lead to liquid state and fluxed is the goal I'm aiming for. I'm then able to pour many 10 pound bricks in very short order. I'm not planning on trying to be efficient on propane use. I want it melted, fluxed and poured into molds in as short a time as possible. I won't be using tank to ladle bullets from. My goal is to get 10 or 12 of these bricks quickly.

https://i.postimg.cc/9Q9B8wXq/20190325-043025.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cvsY6Hns)

[ulav8r]

To speed the melting add a quart or two of used motor oil to the pot after it warms up a little and ignite it as soon as it starts to smoke. Will add heat and flux at the same time.