Smith & Wesson + Flitz?

[georgerkahn]

Scurrying to do a bit of cleaning/organizing (???) before hunting season, I pulled my Smith & Wesson Model 64-3 out of the safe last night. This morning, it looks as "not-so-new?" as it did last eve. NO major scratches, but there are a zillion (give or take a few) teeny ones. The revolver was made in 1980, so this is understandable.

Here's my question, which I'm hoping one of you experienced folks might answer:

I want to polish it up a bit: making it pretty again(?). Researching a bit on Internet, using Flitz seems to be a popular substance to employ. Some, however, suggest using a buffing wheel while others are quite vocal against using "anything electric". Even a felt tip on a Dremel was mentioned. Others suggest just using a plain-Jane patch to apply some Flitz, and then wipe off with some old cotton tee-shirt material. BUT -- one fellow wrote that the open areas came out better than new, while (here's the "BUT") areas adjacent to edges -- no matter how he tried -- would not get the same desired sparkle. Hence, he made the analogy of a "spotted" finish...

IF you have had any EXPERIENCE polishing a stainless steel revolver... I'd surely appreciate your advice/hints?

Thanks!
geo

[lawdog941]

I've used Flitz with no problems on SS guns. However, that was mainly to the cylinder and where the most residue ends up after firing. I've also used Mother's Billet metal polish with no bad effects on SS. Mother's will make it shine, so if you have a dull finish, that's not what you want.

[cwtebay]

I have used that treatment before, and use it on wet 4x4 gauze. I do stay away from the markings and use orange sticks dipped in Flitz (stolen from my wife's manicure stuff) to go around the lettering. I remove screws and I use a stiff foam board (also procured from my wife's supplies) wrapped in wet gauze for the edges to avoid the spottiness that's mentioned.
I use it for my every day use firearms, but I'm not sure why you are wanting to polish a hunting gun? It does result in more glare - which the scratches actually help with.


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[georgerkahn]

cwtebay -- you asked, "but I'm not sure why you are wanting to polish a hunting gun?", and the only answer I might offer is somewhere along the way in my 73 years (thus far -- I do want to go to heaven albeit I'm in no great hurry to get there!) I acquired an incurable case of "OCD" -- Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. One of the M1 Garand purveyors has a trade-mark, "Life is too short to own an ugly gun"...
A .22 seems too little, and the .45 Colt too big for me to carry in the woods. A .38 S&W Special with moderate (neither "wussy" nor plus-P) loads has worked well for me. No Susqaush or Grizzlies where I've hunted; and the .38 works quite nicely for a final shot in a deer, or, a smaller critter come upon.
Generally, it stays holstered before, during, and after the day in woods. With fixed sights, the 64 is not a long-range target revolver for me.
Hence, "reflection" is not a worry. I kind of like things to be pleasing to my eye, as they say, and to polish out those teeny scratches surely would be a good step in that direction. I doubt if I'll be around another 41 years (revolver manufactured in 1980) -- so I reckon any polish will be a worthwhile endeavor.
geo

[cwtebay]

cwtebay -- you asked, "but I'm not sure why you are wanting to polish a hunting gun?", and the only answer I might offer is somewhere along the way in my 73 years (thus far -- I do want to go to heaven albeit I'm in no great hurry to get there!) I acquired an incurable case of "OCD" -- Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. One of the M1 Garand purveyors has a trade-mark, "Life is too short to own an ugly gun"...
A .22 seems too little, and the .45 Colt too big for me to carry in the woods. A .38 S&W Special with moderate (neither "wussy" nor plus-P) loads has worked well for me. No Susqaush or Grizzlies where I've hunted; and the .38 works quite nicely for a final shot in a deer, or, a smaller critter come upon.
Generally, it stays holstered before, during, and after the day in woods. With fixed sights, the 64 is not a long-range target revolver for me.
Hence, "reflection" is not a worry. I kind of like things to be pleasing to my eye, as they say, and to polish out those teeny scratches surely would be a good step in that direction. I doubt if I'll be around another 41 years (revolver manufactured in 1981) -- so I reckon any polish will be a worthwhile endeavor.
geoAhhh...I see. Vanity is the only reason I do mine also.

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[BRobertson]

I prefer to use the maroon colored. 3M #7447. Scotch-Brite pads!
They will put a factory finish on all stainless guns.
Freedoms Arms deluxe grade revolvers are basically this type of finish from the factory.

Bob

[358429]

I like to rub my stainless guns with clean 0000 steel wool wetted with clean oil.
Afterwards wipe with a paper towel to remove any remaining steel strands, then a microfiber rag.
Makes them look better than when they were new.

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[El Bibliotecario]

One can always count on the internet to elicit responses that instead of answering the question, challenge the wisdom of whatever it is one wants to do. Accordingly, I will omit my feelings about minor wear marks and say that I have used Flitz (the paste; there is a liquid) to polish a Model 67. It is a minor abrasive but if one avoids mechanical means of application and applies it by hand there is no danger of damage.

[zarrinvz24]

Flitz liquid can also be used on blued guns as well. Great stuff!

[Electrod47]

On my Ruger Sec6 SS I use Flitz and elbow grease and a piece of cotton T-Shirt does the deal for me. The face of the cylinder blacked by Red Dot after as few as 10 rounds is easily cleaned in 30 sec. with an electricians contacts point cleaning rubber stick impregnated with diamond dust.
Don't ask me the official name of it. I brought home about 6 of them in the 1980's and I still have 4. they measure 1/2 X1/2X6" they are handy for a lot of spot rust also.

[JimB..]

Geo, you don’t say if “pretty” is a mirror finish or a brushed finish. I hate a mirror finish on a stainless gun and think you’d be forever repolishing it. Brushed is the better answer imho, and for that BRobertson nailed it.

[El Bibliotecario]

Flitz liquid can also be used on blued guns as well. Great stuff!

Absolutely. Given its abrasive potential I personally am more sparing in applying the paste to blued surfaces. I discovered an extremely mild application to blued weapons which have sat unused for some time may stain the polishing cloth with an indication of brown rust, otherwise invisible to the eye. (Those whose maintenance is more punctilious than mine may roll their eyes.)

[Mk42gunner]

Having polished or shined a lot of brightwork in my day, if I were using Flitz on a stainless gun, I would definitely start with a hand powered option. Flitz works very well, a little goes a long way, and a powered wheel may be entirely too much.

Robert

[samari46]

Mother's mag polish works well on stainless steel firearms. All done by hand and no power equipment. Some of the S&W's done on the S&W forum look like mirrors as you can see the reflection of the person taking the pics. Try some on the grip frame where the strain screw is. About an almost not seen location you can have on a revolver. #m sells various grades of polishing pads in maroon, green and grey. Home depot and Lowe's all sell them. Frank

[georgerkahn]

Here's a photo... I had rubbed with just a cotton towel, and it needs a wee bit "more" -- hence my query re what best to do on this forum.288785
I appreciate all the wonderful suggestions/advice given, and do not wish to make it into a mirror-like finish. Just -- as earlier posted -- wishing to "erase" those teeny-tiny but to me most annoying scratches.
I may seek and try the (post #6) recommended "maroon colored 3M #7447 Scotch-Brite pads", but the suggestion using 0000 steel wool intrigues me -- probably to be my first attempt. Then, at least right now, it's a toss-up between the Flitx + cotton OR those Scotch-Brite pads.
THANK YOU to all!
geo

[oldhenry]

I have never used Flitz, but I have used Autosol which is very similar to Flitz. I do not recommend using a polishing wheel for fear that the lettering will get that "washed out" look. I'd go with a soft cloth that others have suggested.

A year or two ago I acquired a 64 from Aim Surplus. It was a LEO turn in. The original owner was a correctional institute. It had some small dings such a you describe + some deeper dings. I had several small pieces of worn out # 1200 & #1600 emery paper (I emphasize "worn out") that I used on the flat surfaces after removing all screws. I utilized a small flat block of wood & Buck honing oil & this made the deep dings look much better (didn't remove them completely). The Autosol all but removed all of the small dings.

I'm like you in that I like pretty guns.

Henry

[JimB..]

Here's a photo... I had rubbed with just a cotton towel, and it needs a wee bit "more" -- hence my query re what best to do on this forum.288785
I appreciate all the wonderful suggestions/advice given, and do not wish to make it into a mirror-like finish. Just -- as earlier posted -- wishing to "erase" those teeny-tiny but to me most annoying scratches.
I may seek and try the (post #6) recommended "maroon colored 3M #7447 Scotch-Brite pads", but the suggestion using 0000 steel wool intrigues me -- probably to be my first attempt. Then, at least right now, it's a toss-up between the Flitx + cotton OR those Scotch-Brite pads.
THANK YOU to all!
geo

For finishing wood finishes I use bronze wool rather than steel wool because bits of steel become imbedded in the finish and can rust. Not sure if tiny bits of the harder steel will imbed in the stainless. Just a thought.

Oh, you might want to play with some stainless barrel scraps or something cheap like a 10-22 barrel to see what finish you like.

[DSW]

On a blued gun - Flitz. On a stainless gun - Semichrome.