100lbs of shot. Never reloaded shotgun. Lee?

[jonp]

Picked up 100lbs of #6 and #8 for $100. I was going to melt it for boolits but decided id try my hand at shotgun.

Will the Lee get this done for a novice? I dont shoot enough 12g to justify a MEC or similar

[Polymath]

Most important: Buy a manual, read it.
1. First off don't melt shot for bullets. It has graphite coating that is a bugger to get off and you will be miserable trying to rub it around and break it up in the pot. There is lots of graphite scum that rises to the top and has to be skimmed off. Shot is too valuable to waste by melting it down. Better off to trade it. I melted one 25# bag and never again.
2. Most shot is hard and chilled. Means it has alloying elements in them = $$$. Antimony, arsenic and tin.
3. If you decide to load for shotgun, a Lee Load all is fine, unless you are blasting over 5 boxes a week. I comfortably load a box of trap loads on my Lee Load All in 20 mins. I have two 12 ga Load All’s and one 20 ga Load All.
4. Stick with known recipes and don't start interchanging components. There is less room for messing up with shot shells than with rifle brass. Use what your book calls for.
5. KNOW what your base wad looks like. Cut a shell length wise (hacksaw) and then you will see the differences in the various hulls, and base wads. Don't just go by the name on the outside. Even within the same company there can be different type of base wads. Tapered hulls are different than straight wall hulls. Paper base wads are different than plastic base wads and take different amounts of powder.
6. Rio hulls and European (Clever, Mirage, Mainochi, and others) hulls take a difference size of primer. This can be fixed by a swaging tool, or buying the bigger primer.
7. Sort your hulls by gauge, name, length of hull, base wad, straight wall or tapered. Empty wine boxes work fine. Work with one type of hull at a time.
8. Always tie the neck of your shot bag immediately after filling hopper. Don’t ask how I know.
9. Weigh your shot and powder. Throw a few before proceeding on with your loading. You may have to adjust the bushing size.
#6 shot is good for ducks and grouse, #8 is fine for trap shooting.
https://www.randywakeman.com/WhoPutstheHardestShotinLeadTargetShotshells.htm

[too many things]

all top advice

[jonp]

thanks for the advice

[gpidaho]

Jon: I accumulate old shotgun presses. Last count I have around 30. There isn't anything wrong with the Lee Load All II for those that just want to load a few boxes of shells. I use my Lee press a lot but I measure or throw my charges and shot is weighed or dipped with a scoop. The Lee also is very handy for slugs and buckshot. They are on sale today at Midway. Good way to get started. Gp

[richhodg66]

Lee Load-All has been working fine for me to make trap loads. I've loaded and shot several hundred the past month or so with a Load All.

[richhodg66]

Jon: I accumulate old shotgun presses. Last count I have around 30. There isn't anything wrong with the Lee Load All II for those that just want to load a few boxes of shells. I use my Lee press a lot but I measure or throw my charges and shot is weighed or dipped with a scoop. The Lee also is very handy for slugs and buckshot. They are on sale today at Midway. Good way to get started. Gp

Truth. Had to learn the lesson to make sure that powder hopper is full and I tap the little handle on the charge bar a few times before throwing a charge. I have mine at a heaight where I can peer into the hull after charging and make sure powder dropped. I'm using 700X.

[jonp]

Most important: Buy a manual, read it.
1. First off don't melt shot for bullets. It has graphite coating that is a bugger to get off and you will be miserable trying to rub it around and break it up in the pot. There is lots of graphite scum that rises to the top and has to be skimmed off. Shot is too valuable to waste by melting it down. Better off to trade it. I melted one 25# bag and never again.
2. Most shot is hard and chilled. Means it has alloying elements in them = $$$. Antimony, arsenic and tin.
3. If you decide to load for shotgun, a Lee Load all is fine, unless you are blasting over 5 boxes a week. I comfortably load a box of trap loads on my Lee Load All in 20 mins. I have two 12 ga Load All’s and one 20 ga Load All.
4. Stick with known recipes and don't start interchanging components. There is less room for messing up with shot shells than with rifle brass. Use what your book calls for.
5. KNOW what your base wad looks like. Cut a shell length wise (hacksaw) and then you will see the differences in the various hulls, and base wads. Don't just go by the name on the outside. Even within the same company there can be different type of base wads. Tapered hulls are different that straight wall hulls. Paper base wads are different than plastic base wads and take different amounts of powder.
6. Rio hulls and European (Clever, Mirage, Mainochi, and others) hulls take a difference size of primer. This can be fixed by a swaging tool, or buying the bigger primer.
7. Sort your hulls by gauge, name, length of hull, base wad, straight wall or tapered. Empty wine boxes work fine. Work with one type of hull at a time.
8. Always tie the neck of your shot bag immediately after filling hopper. Don’t ask how I know.
9. Weigh your shot and powder. Throw a few before proceeding on with your loading. You may have to adjust the bushing size.
#6 shot is good for ducks and grouse, #8 is fine for trap shooting.
https://www.randywakeman.com/WhoPutstheHardestShotinLeadTargetShotshells.htm

I was reading about graphite removal. Supposedly, the electrolysis method works. I rigged a tank up out of a plastic bin and used a battery charger to remove some rust from a cast iron pot. I might give it a try.

I've used #8 for partridge with success since up north early in the season they flush very close, also on the edge of thick swamps.

[rbuck351]

If you are not planning on buying more shot than what you have, the Lee load all will work fine especially considering the price vs the normal presses. The nice thing about the Lee is it comes with a bunch of powder and shot bushings. Although they are not as nice to load with as a normal press they do make good reloads. I have a 12 ga and 20 ga and am keeping my eyes open for a 16ga.
I have a Pacific 12ga a Herters 12/20ga two Texans one is a progressive but most of my shotgun shells are loaded on a Lee load all as I don't shoot a lot of shotgun.

[farmbif]

I never used a lee load all but can see where its at an attractive price point considering a set of bushings is included. if you find that the 100lbs of shot is a gateway drug for shotshell loading addiction. might keep your eyes open for a good used mec. I've collected a bunch over the years and the best deal I found was a pair of 9000's , one in 12ga the other in 20 ga, for $200 out the door at a very out of the way gun shop. but that didn't stop me from picking up another 600jr in 20 ga at local pawn shop for $30 that was missing primer cup spring and powder/shot funnel. ive found that its all in the set up of adjusting your load column and wad pressure this is the reason why most people that don't like the mec dont like it. but an old ugly one will load just as good as a new shiny one once you get it set up properly for the load your putting together.

[Hamish]

That shot is $3 a pound and better right now. No way I would melt it, it’s worth too much in trade or for sale.

The only thing I never liked about the Lee was sizing the base down, it feels like you’re going to break the unit. A little case lube helps a bunch. I started out with the Load All, it will serve you very well until if and when you decide to step up to a MEC.

[David todd]

I hand load shotshells and cast my own shot as well , but most of my hand loading is done with brass cases and black powder. I use a press for setting the wads and such, and for throwing the shot charge as well at times, but mostly all by hand.
When I do use a press for modern shells, I use mostly MEC presses, but do have a few Lees as well.
They all work well as long as they are set up properly and you follow the loading manuals.
David

[murf205]

Most important: Buy a manual, read it.
1. First off don't melt shot for bullets. It has graphite coating that is a bugger to get off and you will be miserable trying to rub it around and break it up in the pot. There is lots of graphite scum that rises to the top and has to be skimmed off. Shot is too valuable to waste by melting it down. Better off to trade it. I melted one 25# bag and never again.
2. Most shot is hard and chilled. Means it has alloying elements in them = $$$. Antimony, arsenic and tin.
3. If you decide to load for shotgun, a Lee Load all is fine, unless you are blasting over 5 boxes a week. I comfortably load a box of trap loads on my Lee Load All in 20 mins. I have two 12 ga Load All’s and one 20 ga Load All.
4. Stick with known recipes and don't start interchanging components. There is less room for messing up with shot shells than with rifle brass. Use what your book calls for.
5. KNOW what your base wad looks like. Cut a shell length wise (hacksaw) and then you will see the differences in the various hulls, and base wads. Don't just go by the name on the outside. Even within the same company there can be different type of base wads. Tapered hulls are different than straight wall hulls. Paper base wads are different than plastic base wads and take different amounts of powder.
6. Rio hulls and European (Clever, Mirage, Mainochi, and others) hulls take a difference size of primer. This can be fixed by a swaging tool, or buying the bigger primer.
7. Sort your hulls by gauge, name, length of hull, base wad, straight wall or tapered. Empty wine boxes work fine. Work with one type of hull at a time.
8. Always tie the neck of your shot bag immediately after filling hopper. Don’t ask how I know.
9. Weigh your shot and powder. Throw a few before proceeding on with your loading. You may have to adjust the bushing size.
#6 shot is good for ducks and grouse, #8 is fine for trap shooting.
https://www.randywakeman.com/WhoPutstheHardestShotinLeadTargetShotshells.htm

This should be a sticky.

[Half Dog]

If you’re near Dallas, give me a shout. You are welcome to load some with my press to help determine what you would like.

[richhodg66]

That shot is $3 a pound and better right now. No way I would melt it, it’s worth too much in trade or for sale.

The only thing I never liked about the Lee was sizing the base down, it feels like you’re going to break the unit. A little case lube helps a bunch. I started out with the Load All, it will serve you very well until if and when you decide to step up to a MEC.

When I first started looking at the Load All I got, I kind of wondered about that size ring and just lubed the bases like I would for metallic cases, didn't try it without. I'm not much of a Lee fan, but that little Load All seems to turn out good trap loads for me, just gotta watch that powder hopper to keep it full and I've developed a routine to look down in each hull after charging to make sure. My first batch, I didn't do this and had several squibs, started being more careful and haven't had a problem since.

I'd say that Load All is a good value for what it is, I think I payed 20 bucks for it.