If you have a 358429 do you need a 358477?

[Stopsign32v]

So I have a few great molds for the 358429 and I was looking at purchasing the 358477 but after looking at it the overall profile of the 358477 looks so similar to the 358429 that I have to ask you guys, if you had one would you still want/need the other?

[zarrinvz24]

It depends, what are you going to be shooting them in? 358429 is too long for nearly every .357, other than the M19, Colt SAA & New Service .357’s. So if you are planning on loading for a Python, N-frame S&W, the 477 is a good way to use .357 length brass and crimp in the crimp groove.

[zarrinvz24]

I’m not sure if the .44mag/special guys have this problem, but one of the reasons I gravitate towards .38 specials these days is mainly because I love using the classic designs: 358311, 358429, 358432, but of the three, only the 432 fits in magnum brass and can be crimped in the groove. The traditional solutions are to trim back your .357 brass, or to seat the bullet deeper and crimp over the front band. Both of these solutions are a compromise, seating over the front band removes many of the positive aspects of EK’s design. And trimming back 357 brass, just use .38 brass.

[fecmech]

There is much ado about the length of 358429 and what one must do if loaded in mag brass. I've been tape crimping mine for over 30 years and I just set the oal slightly shorter than the cylinder, that's it. I did some chrono tests years ago between hard regular crimp and taper crimp using 2400 and 296 max loads. Ballistics were essentially identical as it's bullet pull not crimp that is the determining factor.

[Bazoo]

I run the RCBS 38-150-SWC which is the same as the Lyman 358446 I think. Well, I also have a 358429 im beginning with. Reason is simple. The fun of experimenting. You can make things work with just one mold for the caliber but that’s no fun.

And I hear tell the 358429 is usually okay in a gp100 cylinder. It depends on the exact mould version. Some had the noses a touch longer from my research.

[Stopsign32v]

And I hear tell the 358429 is usually okay in a gp100 cylinder. It depends on the exact mould version. Some had the noses a touch longer from my research.

Mine BARELY clears in 357 brass in my GP100

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332195352_cc256ef691_c.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/113193676@N08/2dUnnD)

[Cord]

There are two different Lyman designs marked 358477....make sure you are looking at the good, vintage one.
The old one is a personal favorite. I would not own the newer one, which lacks a proper crimp groove.

I would recommend reading up on this and educating yourself. You can ask good questions and get good advice,
but still may not fully understand the choices you have made unless you do your own research and study.

An excellent article on this very subject is "The .38 SWC" by Glen Fryxell.
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell38SWC.htm

He discusses the history of the .38 SWC and his choices for both .38 and .357.
I find this article very interesting, and refer to it often,
and have collected several of the designs he mentions.....

There is also an index of many fine articles he has written on casting and shooting that should keep you busy awhile....
http://www.lasc.us/articlesfryxell.htm

And an excellent small book, "From Ingot to Target" loaded with information on the whole process.
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

Hope this helps you, best of luck and be safe!
.

[Ed_Shot]

My 358429 loaded in 357 brass to the crimp grove fits just fine in my Security 6, Blackhawk and Model 19. My bro's GP100 will not take it nor will my 1894C. As already said, there is always 38 Spl brass to load. My 358477 remains an outstanding performer in both 38 Spl and 357. I wouldn't do without either one.

[Larry Gibson]

When I started using the 358477 along with the 358156 I no longer needed the 358429 so it was traded off a long time ago.

[Jack Stanley]

I like the 358477 and don't think I have need of the longer bullet . If I want heavy in the .35 caliber I'll use an LBT 185 , it works fine .38 or .357 brass .

Jack

[zarrinvz24]

That’s interesting Larry. I’ve always considered the 477 and 156 as complementary but the 429 is like the original of the bunch. I’ve not experimented with the 477 too much in .38, but I’ve heard it is the best of the best. At least that’s what Mr. Fryxell alluded to in several of his excellent articles.

[Bazoo]

Must be the 358477 that the 38-150-swc is a copy of. It all runs together sometimes. Anyways.

[oldhenry]

To me it's a choice of weight. I have both.
In the 359429 I have a 4cav.Lyman (old one) & a 6 cav. brass MP (also a 1 cav. HP version: 358439 Lyman Ideal).
I only have 1 358477: a 2 cav. Lyman (old one). I wish it was a 4 cav.. I suggested a GB for a MP in 8 cav. alum & 6 cav. brass, but there were no takers (absolutely none).

[Buck Shot]

Mine BARELY clears in 357 brass in my GP100

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51332195352_cc256ef691_c.jpg (https://www.flickr.com/gp/113193676@N08/2dUnnD)

How do they shoot in your GP100? I'm hoping to get an MP version of the 358429 mold (with HP) when they're available again for my 5" GP100, but I'm pretty new to casting boolits and handloading for revolvers...

Also, I was thinking I would probably go with the plain-base version rather than the GC version so I don't have to mess with gas checks, and then powder-coat them...is this likely to work at magnum velocities without leading?

Also, sorry if this goes slightly off-topic. Thanks.

[dannyd]

Both shoot great in a GP 100 I have the old and new of both molds.

[Walks]

Yes,
I use all 3, have 2 & 4 cav in #358429 & #358477. And a pair of 2cavs in #358156.
I use the #358429 in Mag cases for Ruger Security-Six, Blackhawk, S&W M19 and the Colt SAA. Medium Loads.

The #358477 is reserved for S&W M27 and light .38Spl loads for light .38Spl Revolvers. I probably shoot more of those bullets then any other, except the heavier Lee Cowboy bullet. My Buddy shoots one hole groups out His Long barreled M27 with it.

The #358156 is reserved for MAX .357Mag Loads. It feeds & works well in My Marlin 1894C and Browning B92. I use the Lee #358-158-RF for plinking in those Carbines. The #358429 works well if Roll crimped over the front driving band.
Haven't used #358429 for Hot Loads in years, although it works well in .38-44 Loads for My Colt OP.

[Tim357]

To my way o thinkin, the 358429 shines in Elmer loads in .38 Spl brass. Unless one has only one revolver with a suitable cylinder that allows the 358429 to be used in .357 brass and crimped in the groove, I'd go with another bullet that's more versatile

[rintinglen]

These days, my 358-429 sits idle. I ran off about 15 pounds a few years back to use in my .348 Winchester and was having fun shooting them up sized .350 over 13 grains of Red Dot, but I haven't done so for a while. I have used them in 38 Special brass, but they don't work in my Rossi carbine and have to be loaded funny for my 357's, without any great advantage in accuracy that I can see.

[gwpercle]

When I started using the 358477 along with the 358156 I no longer needed the 358429 so it was traded off a long time ago.

I bought the 358477 first (for a S&W model 64 38 special) and later the 358156 (for a Ruger Blackhawk 357 mag.)
used those for years ... snagged a 358429 on the new E-Bay to give a try ...was sorta disappointed in accuracy in both 38 specials and 357 magnums ??? 358429 doesn't get much handgun use anymore .
What does get a LOT of use is Lyman # 358432 WC turned out to be accuracy champ and at 160 grain ...the perfect weight ... not too heavy and not too light !
NOE is making it again at 162 gr. solid WC and two HP's ! Those HP's are wicked looking !
Gary