Brass Catcher

[tankgunner59]

Have any of you had any success with a brass catcher on an SKS? I'd like to get one for mine but I'm not sure which one, if any, will work well.

[Bloodman14]

Get a wide open area and get a tarp. Just sayin'.

[Wally]

I tried a variety of brass catchers for a number of SA firearms ....BLOODMAN14 is right, get a tarp and shoot in a wide open area. I use a plastic tarp that is not heavy gauge. When it is windy a corner will lift up and it can get blown away. I use pieces of cut off wood to hold down the corners. When shooting you position yourseld so that ejected cases are thrown to the center of the tarp. It'll become second nature to you with use.

[Froogal]

Get a wide open area and get a tarp. Just sayin'.

YES!! That is the only, sure fire way.

[charlie b]

Out here it takes more than a brick in each corner to keep a tarp down. I gave up on tarps cause it was easier to pick up brass than carry around 10 or 20 bricks. Even tried staking the tarp. Same issue. Took longer to stake down the tarp than to pick up the brass.

PS If I am going to shoot a lot I bring a rake. Rake out the area of brass before shooting. Then after I can rake up the stuff I have shot. Our range is littered with steel cases (and 'Blazer' aluminum).

[358429]

I like to position a cheap tool bag and stand it up in such a way the brass will get ejected into it. (Bench shooting)

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[OS OK]

I've had several I built over the years but I shoot at home so my post here prolly won't help anyone out there, y'all prolly want something portable...here go's anyway...
I made it primarily for pistol practice, it's 10 yards from the backstop.

https://i.imgur.com/1gkctiN.jpg

That wood frame used to be the brass catcher but the sun eventually wore out the plastic mesh material so I just started over from scratch.

https://i.imgur.com/dBZr2rI.jpg

Here's the last video of this 'umbrella type catcher', it's relatively long so you might want to just avoid it, many loose interest after about 5 minutes, I get that...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeNIxEQ6R-Q&t=348s

[tankgunner59]

Yeah the "tarp" is what I've done in the past. I use either an old flat bed sheet or a large old cloth table cloth. The wind doesn't seem to pick up the cloth as easily. I was hoping someone here had used one of the universal brass catchers and could give a review. I see some on sale at Midway and was thinking of getting one.
Thanks for the replies.

[Omega]

I've had several I built over the years but I shoot at home so my post here prolly won't help anyone out there, y'all prolly want something portable...here go's anyway...
I made it primarily for pistol practice, it's 10 yards from the backstop.

https://i.imgur.com/1gkctiN.jpg

That wood frame used to be the brass catcher but the sun eventually wore out the plastic mesh material so I just started over from scratch.

https://i.imgur.com/dBZr2rI.jpg

Here's the last video of this 'umbrella type catcher', it's relatively long so you might want to just avoid it, many loose interest after about 5 minutes, I get that...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeNIxEQ6R-Q&t=348s

Well dang OS OK, I watched the entire thing and love your catcher. It would be a great addition to my little range, shade and a catcher in one, but I think I will adapt it to a portable shade I already have. I currently use a tarp, and it works good as it is portable and can be moved as needed to catch the brass at whatever o'clock it happens to go to, but really need the shade and rain shelter that a portable shade can provide.

[OS OK]

Well dang OS OK, I watched the entire thing and love your catcher. It would be a great addition to my little range, shade and a catcher in one, but I think I will adapt it to a portable shade I already have. I currently use a tarp, and it works good as it is portable and can be moved as needed to catch the brass at whatever o'clock it happens to go to, but really need the shade and rain shelter that a portable shade can provide.

That was my thinking also...I shoot mornings up until noon so it does provide that needed shade in the summer. GOD how I wished we needed rain protection too...but here behind enemy lines rain seems to be 'unobtanium'!

One of those square folding shades would be much easier to build a catcher on too. Sewing by hand is slow but you'll get pretty fast at it after a while.

[farmerjim]

Mesh Tarp

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ft-x-20-ft-mesh-all-purposeweather-resistant-tarp-60584.html?_br_psugg_q=mesh+tarp

[Larry Gibson]

I modified the gas tube so the brass is ejected similar to M1/M14/M1 Carbines instead of slinging the cases into the next county. Still have to police up the brass but I'm kind of used to doing that. Easy with this mod.


SKS GAS TUBE MODIFICATION

SKS rifles are notorious for their violent ejection of fired cases. This may be desirable on the Russian tundra at 20 below but for the reloader trying to find the brass it is intolerable. The following modification will allow the rifle to function reliably yet will deposit the brass into a small area to the right front of the shooter. It also will lessen the hazard to bystanders. Velocity of the ammunition used is not effected.

Use standard 7.62x39 ammunition or the equivalent hand load with 123-125 grain bullets when making this modification. The gas system of the SKS allows for more than enough gas port pressure to drive the piston back in the gas tube and cycle the action. This was designed this way to ensure absolute reliable functioning in extreme temperatures and conditions. What this modification does is simply to “vent” the gas after it has imparted enough motion to the piston to cycle the action with out driving it so violently back. As this modification vents the gas rather quickly the use of other than standard ammunition to regulate this cycling may cause malfunctions then when standard ammunition is used.

Attention cast bullet shooters: if you want to shoot really reduced loads with light bullets then regulate it with that. With Lee's 312-155 or heavier bullets I've found functioning to be fine with the conversion made for standard ammo. When medium burning powders (4895, etc.) are used and velocity is in the 1600 fps range I've not had any malfunctions.

To accomplish this modification it will require the following tools:

15 drill bits from #45 (smallest) to #31 (largest)
Center punch
Small round file
Electric drill, cordless or hand drill if power is available at range.

Before going to the range remove the gas tube from the SKS and take out the piston. On each side of the gas tube center punch .22” back from the face of the gas tube. Center punch .35” back from the face of the gas tube directly on top. Now drill each with the #45 drill. You will now have 3 holes, one on each side and one on top. The hole on top will be slightly further back from the ones on the sides. Debur the inside of the tube with the file lightly and reassemble the piston into the tube and assemble it back onto the rifle. Load up the tools, ammo and rifle and head to the range.

Fire 5 rounds and observe the ejection pattern and how violent the action cycles. Drill out the top hole only using one size drill larger at a time. Test firing with at least 3 rounds between each drilling. You must disassemble the gas tube each time to drill.
NOTE:
I have found on several Russian SKSs that with 2 side holes of #45 size and the top hole of #31 size they will lay the brass into and area of about 3 feet diameter about 6-8 feet to my right front when shooting from a sitting position. The recoil of the rifle is much easier to manage as the action is not functioning nearly so violently. A couple have required the 2 side holes to be enlarged to #40 drill bit size.

Several SKSs have required an additional hole .3” behind the top one to subdue the ejection of 150 gr bullet top end loads. With this tube factory 123 - 125 gr and equivalent loads ejects very softly right outside the SKS. Any reduction other than full loads (I use 22.5 gr H4227 behind the 123 - 125 gr J bullets) results in malfunctions. If the first three holes have not “vented” enough gas then drill this 4th hole. Again starting with the #45 drill bit and going one size larger with a test firing each time. If standard j bullet loads are going to be used with the same tube I suggest test both between each drill size.

CAUTION
It is easy to get impatient and drill to much too quick without adequate test firing, DON’T!! You can’t put the metal back. If you do mess it up new gas tubes are available at gun shows and out of Shotgun News for a reasonable price. If you’re not sure of your abilities get one first and try it before messing up the original. I have not messed any up using the above method. I have one tube (original Chinese tube that does fit the Russian with minimal fitting) that when used on my favorite Russian will lay the brass almost within arms reach.

The photo shows my current 2 tubes. I have done quite a few of these for others but don't have photos of them. The front tube is the Chinese tube and you can see the larger rear hole. It is the tube I use with my heavier 150 gr cast bullet loads. The rear tube is the original Russian tube and it is drilled for J bullet factory, milsurp and reloads. Switching out tubes is easy and it's nice to have both so you might want to consider getting a second tube also.

288077

[Wilderness]

TG - is your catcher for range or field use?

I needed a brass catcher for my Savage 99 .30-30 so I wouldn't be distracted chasing brass when I should have been shooting more pigs.

Starting point was an oblong plastic ice cream container with a clip on lid. Container is about as long as the action on one side and as deep as the action on the other. This attaches on the right side of the action to cover the ejection port. About 2" has been cut from the top long side of the lid so empties can enter but still be trapped in the container. A piece of malleable plastic coated electrical wiring with a heavy core secures the top of the container to the scope turret - it just slips over it. A rubber band goes from the bottom of the container around the bottom of the action to loop over the scope turret from the opposite direction.

Attachment points (made with a leather hole punch) on top and bottom go through both the box and the lid, securing them together.

This shell catcher works a treat, though the protrusion of the box out the side is an annoyance. The next version will use just the top 1/2" or so of the container with a mesh bag attached.