Just picked up a mosin

[Evoken]

Good morning gents,
I stopped at a surplus store that has a handful of of surplus rifles, pistols, and more dummy grenades than you can shake a stick at. Anyway, I stopped to check this place out a few weeks ago and bought some 303 ammo from him and he had an m44 in the corner.

I went back to get a closer look at it this week, unfortunately he sold it, oh well. He did have another one that I took a look at and ended up leaving with. Don't know that much about these Russian rifles other than they made gangs of them.

Here is what I know and/or believe so far. I think it is an 1891/30. The date stamp is 1942. The numbers all match on receiver, bolt, and floor plate. The stock has been cut, poorly I might add, so no cleaning rod or bayonet. The bore looks really nice. Out the door with taxes,fees, and a box of throwaway wolf ammo, and a box of s&b brass ammo it was 270$. Paid a little more for the ammo than I cared to, but I need at least some to get started with.

I have a set of lee dies on order. I will need to get some more brass and slug the barrel, but I'm hoping the 311299 and possibly the lee 165 ak mold (can't remember the exact #) will do well in it. Looks like it is right in between 308 and 30-06, looks similar to 303 and 30-40 to me with the rimmed cartridge. I will know more about it when I get it home and give it a good once over and cleaning.

Any help and info you guys can part on this old rusky would be helpful.

Thanks, Ken

[dale2242]

Slug the bore and size accordingly.
Mine slugs .314.
I size to .315.
Fun to shoot cast.
My load is 16 gr 2400, 1 gr dacron, and any cast in the 180-200+ gr cast bullet.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I'm interested in your comment about a poorly cut stock, no cleaning rod or bayonet. I'd like to see a photo or two out of collector interest. I guess you know that the bayonet is a socket-type that slides over the barrel and has a latch that affixes it to the front sight? So you won't see a bayonet lug like on most other military rifles. There should be a slot cut in the underside of the stock for a cleaning rod, and they aren't hard to come by. Dale's advice to slug the bore is good, but I'll bet a .311 bullet will prove about right.

DG

[Evoken]

I will post a photo when I can. From what I can tell it was cut between the 2 barrel bands. Square cut and not smoothed out, like with a hacksaw. The front barrel band, the notch for the front sling loop and the upper handguard are non existent.

I may not have much time to work on it for a few weeks, as I am working out of town now. I see plenty of aftermarket stocks are available for it, but I would like to find a replacement for it as well as a rod, new upper guard, and front band. From a little googling, parts seem to be mostly available, but no one has a relatively cheap stock advertised. I did find a complete stock with all the metal, bands, plate, tensioners, but 160$ seems a little steep to me.

I've got 309, 310, and 311 sizers, so unless it is a big bore I should be good. Like everything else firearm related, brass seems to command quite a premium right now.

[jakharath]

"Moist Nuggets" are fun to shoot. And they will let you know that you've pulled the trigger.

[smithnframe]

All the serial numbers on these rifles are “forced” unless it was a bring back!

[Evoken]

All the serial numbers on these rifles are “forced” unless it was a bring back!

What does that mean sir? Are they issued an import # that becomes the serial #? This is my first non ally milsurp, so I do not know that much about how that works.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

After WW II the Rooskies had a big weapon refinishing, rebuilding and storage program. Many battlefield pick up rifles, worn rifles, and rifles with missing parts were assembled from what was available. Originally the bolts had serial numbers that matched the receivers, but if the bolt was lost and another used, or just mixed up with other bolts, the original serial number was stuck out (X-ed) or filed off and a new number either stamped or applied with an electric pencil to match the receiver. Same with some of the smaller serialized parts. The weapons were mostly refinished and then stored in salt mines as a reserve for the next war. It wasn't just Mosin-Nagant rifles, but just about everything they used and/or captured. Maybe 25 years ago they needed the cash and started selling them off. Not only Mosins reached our shores, but many German K98k rifles and some P-38 pistols a well. These renumbered parts are referred to as being "force fit". Sort of a misleading term, really, as they weren't beat into place with a big hammer.

DG

[Evoken]

I see, well then I guess I have no idea if all the parts are original or not. If it matters, it looks like the numbers on the bolt are stamped and not engraved. Upon closer inspection it was definitely cut at the fore end, the cut is not even square. I will try and post some pics later.

[Jim22]

Like all military rifles I would expect the Mosin to perk up if you give it a better trigger. I have had some P17 Enfields and some 98 Mausers which were safe to shoot but had terrible triggers. Dayton Traiste made triggers for the P17 and every one makes them for the Mauser. I have never gone wrong with Timneys. Does anyone make aftermarket triggers for the Mosin. Even Ruger 77's need new triggers. But they are available.

Jim

[Evoken]

I did see that timney makes a trigger for the mosin. Are the mosins supposed to have a safety and mine does not? The timney I seen os advertised "with safety".

[Piedmont]

I've got 309, 310, and 311 sizers, so unless it is a big bore I should be good. Like everything else firearm related, brass seems to command quite a premium right now.

If it isn't a Finn Mosin your sizer dies are too small.

[45workhorse]

It will shoot better groups with the bayonet fixed! Try with and without you will see a big difference.

[Tar Heel]

To identify your rifle type and manufacturer, try this excellent site.

http://www.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinIDII

A visit to their root page at http://www.62x54r.net/ will yield a wealth of legitimate information - not guesses.

[Evoken]

To identify your rifle type and manufacturer, try this excellent site.

http://www.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinIDII

A visit to their root page at http://www.62x54r.net/ will yield a wealth of legitimate information - not guesses.

Thanks for the site link. I will review it when I get a chance.

[Mohawk Daddy]

There are wide variations in these rifles, and that's an understatement. I have a 91/30 with a 310 bore that won't chamber any boolet larger than 311. And an M44 that happily swallows a 314 because that's what it shoots best. If you end up with a generous sized rifle, the Lee 185 bullet may be useful.

[Adam Helmer]

Ken,

The safety is on the rear end of the bolt. Grasp the knob of a cocked bolt, pull backwards and twist a bit counterclockwise and you are "safe."

My best boolits for my Russians are the Lyman #311467 and the 185 grain Lee C312. I quickly check bore size by inserting a cast bullet into the muzzle, point first. If it goes more than halfway, size a bit larger.

Adam

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Without the photos it sounds like your bolt with stamped numbers is original to the receiver if the numbers are the same. Also, sounds like Bubba got to the rifle before you did with the front end modification. No problem if you want to restore it, as Mosin stocks can be found at most of the internet parts suppliers. Also, cleaning rods.

DG

[DxieLandMan]

To identify your rifle type and manufacturer, try this excellent site.

http://www.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinIDII

A visit to their root page at http://www.62x54r.net/ will yield a wealth of legitimate information - not guesses.

Thank you for this. Just learned mine was made in 1939 at Tula. I never noticed the Russian Star mark until now

[Evoken]

288234

[Evoken]

288235288236

[Evoken]

288237

Here are a few photos of the old commy. As you can see someone not very skilled took a saw to her.
Cleaned up fairly well. I took the bolt down and cleaned all the old oil and rust out. The bore slugs at .313 outer and .303 inner, so I need to get some bigger sizers. Bore is pitted, but not too bad my 303 is way worse.
With the handguard removed there was too much slop for my liking. So I drove in a piece of cedar shim for now.

I will see how it shoots before I do much more to it.

Hopefully I can find a cheap replacement stock for it. The only ones I found will cost me about 160$, I will not be sinking that kind of scratch into it.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

$160 seems pretty excessive to me, even in this day of rapid inflation. They made millions of these, and huge numbers were imported. By now, lots of them have been parted out, so a reasonably priced stock shouldn't be impossible to find.

I'm not sure where you want to go with this project (maybe you aren't either), but it would be possible to restore your present stock. This is referred to in the trade as "stretching" the stock, and is often done to correct Bubba's sporter jobs. You can remove the stock from the action and cut it off square where a barrel band is located, then glue on a new piece of compatible wood and shape it to match the original. The joint is under the band when reassembled. Start with a piece of replacement wood that is just a bit longer than needed and cut it down to close to the proper diameter before the glue job. Then about all you'd need to do is find another band and a nose cap.

There was very recently a thread by a member who restored a K98k Mauser using the technique I've described, and I've done it to several of Bubba's .30-40 Krag rifles. In the photo below, three Krags are shown. Two are "stretched", one is original. Something to consider, if you can't find another stock.

DG

288239
Click to enlarge.

[Evoken]

Now that is certainly a good idea sir.

Not quite sure what is going to happen with it yet until I shoot it and stew on it a bit. There seems to be plenty of sporter and tacticool stocks available for cheap, but I dont think that's the way this one will head.

[foesgth]

With a properly sized bullet Mosins shoot well with Ed Harris' "the load". That is 13 grains of Red Dot. This lets you get used to the rifle and not need shoulder surgery! Mine like a 314-299.

[Evoken]

I have the noe version of the 311299. With any alloy richer than coww, it casts pretty fat boolits. I will have to get some dropped and see what the dial in at.

[CLAYPOOL]

IS it just me or was it "SHIPPED" home disassembled...?

[samari46]

The Lyman 314299 is all that I shoot out of my Finn M27 made in 1935. I bought one of those 314299 molds when they first came out. Nose is .303-.304 and body at .314. Shot very well with wheel weights and 2% tin. Few weeks after I first shot it with that bullet I bought a second mold 314299. Probably have well over 3000 rds through that M27. Frank

[Evoken]

IS it just me or was it "SHIPPED" home disassembled...?

That is very hard to say sir. The little surplus store I got it from had just acquired it from an estate sale earlier that day. I dont think he even had it logged into his books yet.

[nicholst55]

Here's a source for more reasonably priced Mosin stocks and handguards:

https://buymilsurp.com/mosin-nagant-parts-accessories-mosin-nagant-stocks-handguards-c-2_10.html

The same vendor has other parts, as well - bands and band springs, among others.

Timney makes a replacement trigger, as noted earlier; available form Brownells and others.

[Evoken]

Here's a source for more reasonably priced Mosin stocks and handguards:

https://buymilsurp.com/mosin-nagant-parts-accessories-mosin-nagant-stocks-handguards-c-2_10.html

The same vendor has other parts, as well - bands and band springs, among others.

Timney makes a replacement trigger, as noted earlier; available form Brownells and others.

That is the site that I found the stocks on. They do have a cheaper complete stock, in stock, at 140$. However, that is still too pricey as far as I'm concerned. That will almost double the cost of this rifle, and I know it's certainly not worth that much.

[Evoken]

As a side note, wow is the machining terrible on this thing. I understand that this was a war effort build and they pumped them out as fast as they could, but. The barrel and receiver have so many chatter marks on them I'm surprised how well the interior actually looks. I supposed they really did not care about fit and finish as long as it worked.

[Tar Heel]

It seems that not that long ago a Mosin could be chosen from a crate of rifles, of which there were at least 10 of, and then purchased with its full accessory kit AND a sardine can of ammo for $99. I just can't believe the prices of these rifles now. I have seen the bottom of the barrel guns - and I mean the BOTTOM of the barrel guns, selling for $500 now with no accessories and a dried up ammo supply.

The LGS owners would beg you to buy two guns back then to offload their supply and free up storage space. Boy have times changed in such a short while.

[WinchesterM1]

I’ve got an old stock laying around…….

[beemer]

As a side note, wow is the machining terrible on this thing. I understand that this was a war effort build and they pumped them out as fast as they could, but. The barrel and receiver have so many chatter marks on them I'm surprised how well the interior actually looks. I supposed they really did not care about fit and finish as long as it worked.

I picked up a 91/30 a few years back it had good bluing, a very nice bore and was not beat up. Everything that mattered was good but it looks like the final polish was done with a side grinder. I have read that at one battle weapons were handed to the troops out of the back of the factory, those were desperate times.

Wouldn't change the finish on mine if I could, it's a reminder of how fast things can go downhill and the guns true worth.

Dave

Enjoy your rifle and hope it shoots well.

[nicholst55]

There is a stock on Ebay starting at $0.99 at the moment, with no bids. Shipping is an additional $30. As stated, these rifle, their ammo, and parts used to be ridiculously inexpensive. Not any more.

If you're not in a hurry, set aside as much money as you're willing to spend for a stock, and wait and watch. It may take years, but eventually you may find what you're looking for at a price you're willing to pay.

[Evoken]

Had a chance to shoot the old girl on saturday. Had a few light primer strikes at first until I tightened the firing pin spring. After that it ate any ammo I gave it. All in all it shot ok, certainly not great but acceptable. Shooting low and left right now, but I can work on that. I think this one may turn out to be a good cast shooter. I actually really like the sights, the hood brings the picture in very nicely.

Rifles like these are a reminder of desperate times in the face of an enemy and I would love to know the history of this particular one.

Mr. WinchesterM1, if you could be persuaded to part with your stock without clubbing me over the head I would be interested in it.

Thanks,
Ken

[Evoken]

My brother came over saturday when we shot it to give me a hand with the old girl and taught me quite a bit about it. He is fairly knowledgeable about the old mosins and has a few.
He is the one that figured out my firing pin spring needed tightened when we looked at his side by side. Also showed me the cocking piece safety which I think is an interesting take on such a thing.

Looking at the markings on the stock he believes this one did not undergo a rearsenal makeover, not that it means much just something he pointed out.

[Tar Heel]

I really love shooting mine with the Lee 312-185-1R over 15gr of TrailBoss powder. It makes a fantastic plinking load. A few years back one could purchase Privi Partisan ammunition at Cabella's for $18/box and of course reuse the brass. Buying the ammunition was cheaper than buying new brass! Now of course, brass is difficult to come across. Hopefully everything will level out within the next few years and we can get back to normal supplies of stuff.

Here is a photo of that bullet just prior to being seated to the crimp groove. Standard 32 caliber gas checks work fine if needed.

288327

[Evoken]

I ordered a few sizer dies and expander plug from mr. Nelson at noe yesterday. Both .314 and .315. I know I can get my noe 311299 clone to cast that fat especially with some powder coat, as well as the lee 160gr 7.62 mold. Gonna have to get some cast up.

Also acquired 40 pieces of decent brass that is now sized and primed awaiting some fresh boolits. Not sure when I will have time to get back to this old girl, but it will wait for me.

Thanks for all the help and advice on this old russian.

[Lawyerman]

I "picked one up" once....put it right back down. Lol....

[Uncle Grinch]

Back when I had my C&R license, I purchased three Mosins at $69 each. They were in decent condition, but really turned me off at their crudeness. I gave one to a buddy and sold the other two. A year or so later I came across a Finn M39 and my opinion of the Mosin took a dramatic change. My re-armored 1944 VKT is like a Cadillac of milsurps. The Finns really turned this rifle around. I’m not letting this one go!

https://i.postimg.cc/GtXnsYbh/B43-E1-F6-E-FDA2-4855-A73-A-81-AEF833-D0-EC.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/J4hLCTQy/2-C61701-A-F344-4-ED4-B748-CCCF6-CA35045.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/pVCH7NKb/DD5101-C1-C8-FB-4374-BC87-449-BDAEB5-C06.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Texas by God]

The VKT is a Sako rework, correct? I had a 27 Sako that shot great but the hard bolt lift compared to other milsurps turned me off.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[LAGS]

A hard lifting bolt can be corrected.
The Mosin will never be as smooth as a Mauser , but can be lapped in on the cocking cam to be better.
Especially if the rifle was re assembled from mis matched parts from other rifles.
My favorite powder for my surplus rifles is RL -7.
It shoots like the old 4759 that I can't find any more.
Other powders like Unique , Red Dot and 2400 work good too.
But I never liked using a large case with tiny amounts of powder like 12 gr of Unique.
I have a couple of the Timney triggers with the side safety.
They are great.
But you have to do a lot of inletting in the stock to get them to fit.
So I use them only on my Customized Mosins and leave the original stocks the way they came so it doesn't drop the value of the rifle.

[richhodg66]

Haven't shot it in a while, but I have a Finn variant, can't remember what exactly, has a very, very long barrel and mint bore. It'll shoot every bit as well and then some as my O3A3 will with cast.

I need to pull out the milsurps and do some work with them.

[Uncle Grinch]

The VKT is a Sako rework, correct? I had a 27 Sako that shot great but the hard bolt lift compared to other milsurps turned me off.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

I don’t believe that is correct. The M39 was produced at three factories, VKT, Sako, and Tikka, as far as I know. There are variation of each model and barrel. I’m sure someone smarter than me can give us more insight.

[390ish]

There were also two state arsenals that produced M-39 rifles. Just not that many.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Three44s]

I started with a pair of M44s, cheap!

Then a pair of 91/30’s, much better, still cheap!

A M38 came into view, snagged it, fairly cheap!

The M44s are shorter than the 91’s but clubs in my opinion. Should sell them but might not, maybe make them a trimmer package.

The 38 is a carbine and a gem, my favorite of the Mosins I own.

The 91’s I have are sweet with a very long sight radius and shoot very well with surplus ammo.

I have not gotten around to hardly any cast work with them yet however.

Three44s

[BigAlofPa.]

I had to adjust my firing pin recently. It was starting to pierce primers. Got a warm puff of air last time out.

[Evoken]

Afternoon gentlemen,
It appears that I truly did not have to look farther than this site to find a new stock. One of you fine folks reached out to me last week saying he had such a thing. He sent me some photos and we struck a good deal, it arrived today. The stock looks great, and he also threw in a partial stock to hopefully repair the current one and some boolits for me to try! I will not mention the gentleman's name as I feel that is rude, however you can certainly chime in sir.
This is why so many folks love this site, such a wealth of knowledge and goodwill.289490289491289492

[Evoken]

289493289494289495

[Tripplebeards]

I just picked one up this spring with a bayonete for $125. I also got an unopened tuna can full of ammo for it for another $25. The stock has a factory repair otherwise it looks like new and unissued. I'm sire it was military reconditioned? I might have to shoot it one of these days along with the lee enfiled I got with it....guns I forgot I have.lol

[Evoken]

289526289527289528289529
I've got the new replacement stock just about stripped down and sanded a few imperfections out. I think one more coat of stripper ought to do it. Then it will be time to steam out some of the dings before I start giving it the oil.

[LAGS]

Wow.
You jump on things quickly.
That stock looks pretty good stripped down already.

[Evoken]

Me and the little guy have some time to poop around today. Figured the soon we get started the sooner it will get somewhere.

[Larry Gibson]

I "picked up" a couple MNs during the late SE Asian war games. The previous owners (funny, they were both named "charley") didn't need them anymore......

289560

[Tripplebeards]

You guys are gonna make me open up my tuna can and waste some ammo.

[Evoken]

No pics yet but I got most of the dings steamed out. The grain was starting to raise to much for my liking so I decided to quit while I was ahead. Got 2 decent coats of linseed oil on it already, i would like to do several more. I do not think i will be using any type of varnish or shellac when done. I was not able to get all of the old oil stain out of the stock, but so be it. I think it will look good when all finished.

The metal parts are a mix of blues and painted. What did the mosins from 42 come out of the factory finished with? Were the metal parts blued, or a mixture like what I have?

[LAGS]

Factory Rebuilds sometimes had painted hardware.
But strip off the paint , soak the parts in vinegar and then just cold blue the parts.
I slow rust my parts.
But I am already set up to do the whole rifle barrel and action.
But slow rusting small parts is easy on a kitchen stove or grill outside

[Evoken]

Got it sir. The bluing in the barrel and action are not bad, so I don't need to worry about them. The small parts are easy for me to blue with the equipment I have.

[Finster101]

I "picked up" a couple MNs during the late SE Asian war games. The previous owners (funny, they were both named "charley") didn't need them anymore......

289560



I think you paid more than most of us for yours.

[samari46]

YYour Finnish rifles will need slugging. You'll need both the land and groove dimensions. If between .311-.312 the Lyman bullet mold number 314299 which casts .304 on the bore riding section and ,314 for the land section. Wheel weights plus 2% tin has worked well for me. I use 20.0 grains at an estimated of 1600-1700 fps. Standard large rifle primer. Have fun. Frank

[Geezer in NH]

Many years ago when I had my shop I bought a couple hundred or more of the 44's and 91's. The 44's were still the arsenal paper wraps, the 91's in wooden cases. All delivered at $49.00 each.

Sold a few cases of the 91's with the top removed and 1/2 inch safety glass tops ground on the sides and corners for 2.5K each as coffee tables. Sweet marketing on my partners idea.

Sold either for cheap $99.99 for 44's and 91's for $119.99 with Bayonet. Both came with the packs of oil bottles, ammo pouches, and bolt tools.

Ammo was also cheap like the rifles.

That was the good old days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a couple of each including original snipers and scope in my own collection. Also many, many spam cans of Czechoslovakian silver tip ammo. Very accurate stuff.

[Evoken]

289647289648289649
Started giving the stock a few coats of linseed. It will now sit and soak while I am away thus week.
Probably want to give it a few more coats before final polish and a few coats of wax.

[Evoken]

I decided to switch to tru Oil for the last couple of coats. I wanted to slightly darken the wood just a touch. I think 1 or 2 more coats of oil with some light sanding in between coats will just about do it. I will get some pictures posted this weekend.

Next it will be onto pulling the action out of the other stock and cleaning it up. I started cleaning the little bit of paint of the metal parts and most of it is in really good shape. The original blueing is still fairly nice with just a touch of plum color here and there. The bolt knob is about the worst of it. I think I will start with some nice gentle oil rub with steel wool and see how it cleans up. Don't think I will do too much if any reblueing to it. I've decided I want it to look nice, but certainly not new.

I've also got some cast loads made up with some 314299 powder coats and lyman's minimum listed load of I 4198. Not sure when I will have a chance to try them out.

[LAGS]

Loads with 4198 did well for me.

[Evoken]

That is the powder listed that I have the most of. I've heard re7 is a good one to and I dont doubt that, but I'm running low on it. I've already got a few krag and 45-70 loads that use it and don't want to waste it on development until I can locate some more.

I have been able to locate 4198 relatively easily in my area though.

[Evoken]

289876
Here is the boolits I have made up.

[LAGS]

The preferred powders for the 30-40 and .303 work well in the 7.62x54R also.
But it still comes down to what your rifle likes because of the barrel condition .

[Evoken]

289935289936289937

Really starting to shine now. The last coat is currently drying. Then it will be onto final buff and a few coats of Johnson's paste wax.
I've got the action out of the old stock and just about cleaned up as well. The hardest part there was getting the front sight driven out.

I think it will be ready to put together next weekend.

[Evoken]

289993289994289995289996
My lack of patience got the best of me and I put it all together this evening. I think it turned out fairly well and I am happy with the finished product.

I will let everything meld and cure over the next week and hopefully get to shoot some cast loads from it next weekend.

Now I'm going to have to find another project to work on.....

[LAGS]

Any direction on what you would want for your next project.
Or are you going to let product availability , ( and price ) be your guide.

[Evoken]

I'm not sure yet sir. I would like to do an original mauser, but I do not see them come up around here much. When I see them, they are corroded pretty bad or already chopped up and rechambered.
I've also been looking at some of the flintlock kits, but wow are they spendy. Plus black powder is unobtainium around here now and I'm down to a bit more than 2lbs. May be time to start making my own....

[Evoken]

Or perhaps something else, who knows. It will have to be something that I can find brass and dies for, that is to be certain. I do not want to build a wall hanger.

The little surplus shop near where I am working had a nice carcano on the wall that intrigued me. Although it did not need much work and he is a little steep on the price.

I'm gonna need another safe if I keep hanging out in here, that much is certain.

[Larry Gibson]

A standard 2 dies set [FL and seating die} will do (mine are Lee) but I also recommend the Lee .308W collet die. With a washer over the case in the shell holder it will just NS the 7.62x54R cases. They will practically last for ever, especially with cast bullet loads. The collet die body can be adjusted up or down in the press to just size the neck for .002 - .003 tension on any diameter bullet needed from .308 up through .316.

290033

[Evoken]

291340
Finally had a chance to shoot the old girl today. Need to drift the front sight a bit. Otherwise I think it did admirably for an 80 year old, rotten bore, war effort garbage rod, haha.
These were shot sitting with a shooting stick and if I benched it I think I could tighten it up a bit. So far so good though.

[LAGS]

That looks pretty good.
I take it that was with military ammo.
Just a suggestion.
Since you just replaced the stock,
I would double check the barrel channel and make sure you are not getting any pressure on the side of the barrel.
That with those long thin barrels , can drift the barrel different directions

[Evoken]

The loads are the ones I posted above. I got the cast boolits from the gentleman that provided me the stock.
I will definately have to check the barrel and stock interference. I will also have to work on the load itself and get the thing on the bench. Some of that may have been me without a doubt.

I have several other powders that will work, I just started with what lyman4 stated was their best load. That certainly doesn't mean it will be my best load.

Heck, I'm happy it fires and is on paper. I can work with that!

[LAGS]

I have found ,
That working with these rifles with Older or Not So Perfect bores makes it a little harder to work up that Perfect Load.
But the time you spend doing it , adds tons of knowledge to you skills.
It also gives you an excuse to get out shooting more often.

[Tokarev]

M44 should be definitely shot with cast bullets. I owned one and absolutely hated its wild recoil even after having properly shimmed the stock. With FMJ it kicked like a mule, not enjoyable at all. Complete opposite of M91/30 which gives a nice push instead.
Check if it is counter-bored. If not, gauge the muzzle end and counter-bore if worn.

[Finster101]

M44 should be definitely shot with cast bullets. I owned one and absolutely hated its wild recoil even after having properly shimmed the stock. With FMJ it kicked like a mule, not enjoyable at all. Complete opposite of M91/30 which gives a nice push instead.
Check if it is counter-bored. If not, gauge the muzzle end and counter-bore if worn.



Correct if I'm wrong but I have also read the M-44 should be shot with the bayonet in the fixed position not folded.

[starnbar]

Yeah Fin has a point there I have seen a big difference in bullet hits.

[Tokarev]

Correct if I'm wrong but I have also read the M-44 should be shot with the bayonet in the fixed position not folded.

I did not notice any difference with or w/o bayo and with its folded or fixed.
Initially, I bought the carbine w/o a bayo and shot it a few times with 180 gr softpoints and with 150 gr milsurp FMJ. There was no difference in accuracy, only with the POI.
Later, I bought a correct crucifix bayo and put it on and noticed the same thing: POI changed and would change depending on the folded state but the accuracy was the same.
Mine had a good bore and was not counterbored.

[Good Cheer]

Dad had one in the seventies. Thinking back, what a great excuse for a large caliber rebore and black.

[Finster101]

I did not notice any difference with or w/o bayo and with its folded or fixed.
Initially, I bought the carbine w/o a bayo and shot it a few times with 180 gr softpoints and with 150 gr milsurp FMJ. There was no difference in accuracy, only with the POI.
Later, I bought a correct crucifix bayo and put it on and noticed the same thing: POI changed and would change depending on the folded state but the accuracy was the same.
Mine had a good bore and was not counterbored.

I think change in POI proves the point that it does have an affect even if it does not change group size.