All right wrench turners - I need help

[Land Owner]

[LATE NOTE: See post #61 in this thread that ends well. This screw is OUT without destroying anything]

Yamaha 9.9 hp outboard metal Screw from Hades in plastic part - won't come out.

2006 9.9 MSH 682K S 1041179

A metal screw (#32 in picture below), keeps a broken plastic piece (#31) on its plastic shaft (#24), for control of forward, neutral, and reverse. The screw WILL NOT back out - and I HAVE TRIED. A huge screwdriver, well fitted to the slot in the screw head, cannot turn this screw more than a few hundredths of an inch. I held #24 in location while my son torqued on #32 - nothing. He held its location and I TORQUED on #32 - twice. I got 0.02" (+/-) of total rotation.

I can't grab it with any wrench. None of my Phillips screwdrivers are long enough, and if I had one it would not engage the screw any better than the huge Standard screwdriver already used.

I have tried counter rotation (tightening) and nothing. I have Kroil oil that I have not tried. I am at a loss for what to try next...the "assembly" is held in place through holes in the casting. There is no removal to work this out at the vice on the bench.

https://i.postimg.cc/fRyMW9D2/9-9-HP-Yamaha-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/W4JF3KTH/9-9-HP-Yamaha-2.jpg

[fc60]

Greetings,

Try applying some Kroil to the screw and walk away for a while.

Check with the dealer to ascertain if it is left or right hand thread.

Cheers,

Dave

[country gent]

This may have been assembled hot, some plastic pats doe screws and inserts arnt tapped but put together with the insert hot literally gluing it together

[megasupermagnum]

I doubt Kroil is going to work any miracles. Many disagree, but in all my time working on stuff, I have yet to see any kind of spray on oil do any kind of miracle work for a stuck fastener. I find those oils are best with a through bolt, and it lubes the threads so it doesn't gall.

In your case, the very first thing I would try is get a long extension for a 1/4" drive impact gun. I would then push as hard as I could, and roll into the throttle. With any luck it will either get it out, or break it off. If it broke the head off, then just a little work with a Dremel or file would allow you to get the part out to work on it.

[AggieEE]

I was going to suggest that the parts are held with red or green Locktite. If you can get to the screw head with a big soldering iron, I don't suggest an open flame due to gasoline and other plastic/rubber parts. Get it good and hot then try turning and see what happens. I know if I designed that engine I would not want that screw vibrating out getting lost and you are now stuck in whatever gear you were in when it came out.

If push comes to shove can you break off the rest of the broken plastic part? If so then you can get a wrench or something where you can really put the torque to it, If the screw breaks flush then you can get the shaft out and see what is going on. The screw shouldn't be that expensive especially considering how much of your time is tied up in trying to get the screw out. Good luck and keep us updated please.

[jim147]

A hand impact if it will fit in there. They are pretty cheap. And make sure to have a good size hammer to hit it with.

[Bloodman14]

I worked for a plastic toy company eons ago, and some screws resembled more of a spiral shanked nail, the kind used for trimwork and such. Instead of pushing in on the screw while turning, let the screw back out, keeping just enough pressure on the head.

[Land Owner]

Thanks to Everyone. Great suggestions. It is hoped that one of them will work. Kroil can't hurt and I too have found that through-bolts get lubricated while fasteners do not. I have not ascertained why the Control Arm will not rotate into the Reverse position, which would allow me to work vertically on the screw. There are no longer any linkages connected...so I am "missing something" about the way the Control Arm functions. It used to go into Reverse, but that was with the cowling ON and before this plastic part broke...so maybe in that there is a clue.

[NyFirefighter357]

When I have problems with small bolts & screws after some penetrating fluid I now use my 1/4" impact driver. It usually does the trick.

[r80rt]

Left hand screw?

[MaryB]

Probably a JIS screw not a philips head, using a philips will eventually strip it. Ran into that working on electonics, stuff that is imported or foreign design built here uses JIS fasteners. Might have to bite the bullet and get along enough screwdriver to reach. If you can get extensions in there use the small 1/4 inch impact driver(if you have one) and a #2 JIS bit.

[Mk42gunner]

Couple of suggestions: 1. Use a small impact wrench, either air or electric, set to low power and let it hammer on it for a bit. May work, it did when I had to remove a broken stud in an aluminum bellhousing.

2. Buy both part #24 and 31 with associated screws. you will probably destroy #24 anyway getting the broken part off it. They may come as a kit anyway.

Parts for Yamaha outboards can be expensive, but some aren't. I learned that when I had to replace the waterpump on my '99 15HP. Probably the exact same parts as on yours.

Robert

[ruger1980]

First thing I would do is try look at the end of the screw if it protrudes through the shaft and there is a hole in the plastic piece. It could be staked from the back side during assembly. Maybe a mirror o one of those little remote cameras like a bore scope would work.
If it is staked you will not remove it until you grind off the screw. I would probably break off the plastic at that point and do what I had to do to get it out. You can always rethread for a different screw if need be.

Oh and if it is not staked I would just try working it back n forth. You may find you gain a little each time if you do that.

[NyFirefighter357]

When I have problems with small bolts & screws after some penetrating fluid I now use my 1/4" impact driver. It usually does the trick.

[jsizemore]

If you order #32 then you'll know exactly what your dealing with. Unless you got an outboard mechanic that's a close friend.

I've got some older craftsman screwdrivers with the square shaft. Wrench on the square shaft lets me get a feel while still maintaining pressure to keep the blade in the slot. Soldering iron on the screw is the next move

[jonp]

ATF and Acetone 50/50. Dont be shy with it and let sit overnight. Use a Dremel and put a straight slot in that then lean on it. If needed use a straight bit in a ratchet.

[starnbar]

Pull the power head if you got some hours on the engine and replace the head gasket while you are in there won't cost anymore and a new water pump too.

[megasupermagnum]

No, do not use a hammer impact style screwdriver. You will break the bracket right off, and then you are in deep doo doo. I have never worked on a 9.9 Yamaha. From what I see, that screw is threaded into the metal square shaft. It is very likely it has threadlocker on it, but there's not much you can do about it. I really doubt that is threaded into the plastic.

[JimB..]

From the diagram that screw seems threaded into a hole in the square shaft (24), the hole in the plastic piece (31) is probably just for clearance.

Agree that it should rotate.

1/4” Impact driver.

[JimB..]

Megasupermagnum types faster!

[megasupermagnum]

Pull the power head if you got some hours on the engine and replace the head gasket while you are in there won't cost anymore and a new water pump too.

That's way too much work for nothing. There's no reason to replace a head gasket on a 2006, and you can change the water impeller at any time, the powerhead has nothing to do with it. It's jut a little screw. He can get it with an impact.

[.429&H110]

Heat gun.
Maybe there's locktite in it.
Don't set it on fire.

[Minerat]

Try rotating the prop as you shift into reverse to get it to go. Maybe if the screw goes into an aluminum or pot metal shaft there is corrosion in the fitting due to different metals if they did not use a SS screw.

[popper]

No, do not use a hammer impact style screwdriver. You will break the bracket right off
Appears to have a flat washer under it. Probably a glass filled plastic so it will take some heat but it has a bushing for the bracket. I'd try the soldering iron. Hot, ice, hot, ice then try. If red loctite, heat will do it - rust - hot cold cycles. Check the backside with a mirror to make sure it's not staked. Gear control is on the other side of the lever/rod so you have a bigger problem.
They usually have a reverse throttle stop and anti kickup lock.

[farmbif]

do you have a good soldering iron. might try heating the screw then trying to turn it

[Springfield]

If #31 is already broken, then get your Dremel tool with the cut-off wheel and cut it off there so you can see what is actually in there, and you will probably also be able to get at the screw better, maybe with some pliers and break it free.

[Bmi48219]

ATF and Acetone 50/50.

Acetone will dissolve some plastics.

[rbuck351]

It may not shift because the throttle is advanced. Some outboards have a lock out for shifting when the throttle is above an idle.

[downzero]

No, do not use a hammer impact style screwdriver. You will break the bracket right off, and then you are in deep doo doo. I have never worked on a 9.9 Yamaha. From what I see, that screw is threaded into the metal square shaft. It is very likely it has threadlocker on it, but there's not much you can do about it. I really doubt that is threaded into the plastic.

I like the idea of heat.


Acetone will dissolve some plastics.

That's kinda the point. It needs to release its bond either with heat or chemicals, or both.

[Newtire]

I was going to suggest that the parts are held with red or green Locktite. If you can get to the screw head with a big soldering iron, I don't suggest an open flame due to gasoline and other plastic/rubber parts. Get it good and hot then try turning and see what happens. I know if I designed that engine I would not want that screw vibrating out getting lost and you are now stuck in whatever gear you were in when it came out.

If push comes to shove can you break off the rest of the broken plastic part? If so then you can get a wrench or something where you can really put the torque to it, If the screw breaks flush then you can get the shaft out and see what is going on. The screw shouldn't be that expensive especially considering how much of your time is tied up in trying to get the screw out. Good luck and keep us updated please.I’m with AggieEE on heating the screw to liquify the loctite and then using a hand impact driver on it. If it will fit, try one of those stuck fastener removers-looks like an inside-out EZ out. Grips on the outside where it will do some good. Never saw a stuck bolt that one of those things won’t get out. I’ve even driven a small 12- point socket onto the stuck fastener to cut splines into the fastener and then impact it out. I worked in an auto trade school for 31 years and have seen students mess things up like normal people never would be able to do. Then we had to help them fix it.

[Land Owner]

All great ideas, some conflicting. I'm waiting a mite to give the Kroil a chance to penetrate in there, if it will. I tried counter rotation (tightening). I tried the "loose screwdriver" to allow a spiral thread to back itself out. I will have to borrow a 1/4" impact driver should I decide to go that way. The soldering iron for heat is sort of a last resort. Contacting the Dealer's Mechanic is high on the list today - knowing what I am facing is a big part of the solution. Purchasing parts will wait on the removal of the broken part(s) - if something breaks more than #31 or I have to heat it up - then I'll need a new #24 too. The meme says - It can't be tight if it's liquid. Don't know at this hour if I can get a Dremel down and in there to the screw head. What you don't see is a side view showing how far below the top of the casing the assembly is supported. I can't rotate #24 sufficiently to see or work on the screw head or tail, meaning it will take a mirror to see if it is staked. A lot to think about and I am not pressed for this engine's immediate use, so going to go slow and try not to mess it up. Busting one of the cast supports will RUIN this engine. I don't want to go there. As another Last Resort (alternative to heat or breaking something else), I think I could just leave it alone and go Forward and Neutral only. My son was using the engine when it broke, so I don't remember its symptoms after the part failed. I could put it all back together and do a water test in a 55-gal. barrel. We'll see...there is no press for time.

[bakerjw]

It is the shaft that is causing the problem and not the plastic. If you have a large soldering iron, you might be able to get to the screw head and get some heat on it.

Pulling the powerhead looks like it might not be that difficult and would give you the best access to the screw. If you bugger up the screw or twist it off in the shaft, you're going to have to go that route anyway.

[starnbar]

That's way too much work for nothing. There's no reason to replace a head gasket on a 2006, and you can change the water impeller at any time, the powerhead has nothing to do with it. It's jut a little screw. He can get it with an impact.

Well down here in FL we run every day and I go through Merc powerheads about 3-4 years yeah we run em hard and long hours if you you do any work on the water down here and a down engine is NO MONEY GETTER do what you want I am here to make money.

[farmbif]

when I went to outboard school we were taught to use no sealers of any type on intake side of motor, everything else was fair game. if it won't turn its either corrosion or some type of locktite. way back when even some OMC fasteners had locktite pre applied. that's why I suggest a good soldering iron to heat up the fastener in question either that or a mini pinpoint torch like a master appliance torch, just be sure all gas is drained from carbs, and flushed out of cowling and all hoses disconnected.

[Land Owner]

Yamaha Dealer locally said to use heat, not impact, on this 5mm long screw, and confirmed Red Lock-tite was used to hold-fast (YOU BET YOUR BIPPY IT DOES!).

Online parts shopping confirms it to be a machine screw with right hand threads. Dealer said to cycle through four or five times with soldering iron heat and kroil, then try torque without impact. Impact tends to snap off the screw head, he said :-( Oh No Mr. Bill!

This 9.9 engine has been used sparingly (<100 hrs.) as a backup for a 2007 15 hp Yamaha used a lot in season to hunt ducks. My BIL wants the 9.9 to power his Gheenoe and I am trying to fix it.

[brass410]

an induction heater is the ticket for this job, and they're pretty reasonable to buy, (new or flea-bay) it will have a dozen other uses after this little job (annealing a few case neck is just one of many I use for) the screw is no doubt lock-tite secured and probably very liberally to boot as was mine dont worry about the plastic as only the screw will be heated and not the area around it all though there will be some heat transfer if you hold to long.

[wv109323]

For extra torque use a pair of Vise-grips on the shank of the screwdriver(if the shank is round). If the shank is square use an adjustable wrench. You may need someone to hold the screwdriver in the screwhead to keep from stripping it. I use Craftsman screwdrivers for a reason. I agree with heat also.

[jsizemore]

I've had to hollow grind a screwdriver blade to improve the contact in a screw slot. Feeler gage, various files and stones and a good mic. Being old means I need light and magnification. I find old S&W J&K frames that have mauled sideplate screws that will come out if the screwdriver fits properly.

[edp2k]

locktite is the problem.
Good heavy duty soldering iron, like a weller pistol grip type.
Get the screw good and hot, put the soldering iron tip on the screw head for 2 or 3 minutes
and then try it.

[Land Owner]

Yesterday was cycling soldering iron heat and Kroil cooling. I doubt that my home soldering iron is doing the job. I am eyeing a cigar lighter with its tiny torch flame, but igniting the gas lines or melting the plastic trying to get the flame on that bolt are safety issues of paramount importance. Also, I took a hard look at part #24, where it is in my engine, and how #31 is attached. There are three (3) bolts that MUST come out, two (2) are UNDER the carburetor, which you can see in the OP picture. Part #24 has to move to the right so part #31 can slide off of the other end...I'm screwed. Taking the heretofore untouched and working carburetor off was NOT in the game plan.

[Land Owner]

Probably a JIS screw not a philips head...

I am beginning to understand and AGREE! I never knew JIS screws were a "thing". As this engine was manufactured in Japan, you are probably correct, but I cannot see the face of the bolt to fully comprehend. I find that a Phillips "slips" out. So I agree in principal that these are JIS and I need to use a JIS screwdriver.

In this DIY instance, there is NO WONDER that MECHANIC'S LABOR in Dealer or Shop time is 50%, or more, of the repair cost. Perhaps though, for my own sanity, I should take this to a Dealer or shop and let them find the way home...

[bakerjw]

I'm screwed. Taking the heretofore untouched and working carburetor off was NOT in the game plan.
Tohatsu makes many different brands of outboard engines. I have a Tohatsu 8HP 2 cylinder 4 stroke (runs like a sewing machine for trolling) and the carb is VERY easy to remove. The Japanese are very good engineers when it comes to making some things easy.

[farmbif]

ive worked on a whole bunch of Yamahas and its most likely a Phillips but it may not be in the greatest shape if you tried getting it out and it got buggered a bit.
not to brag but I have quite a bit of experience getting stuck fasteners out of outboard motors. in past ive done quite a few different things to get them out. there is a reason why professional mechanics buy the best tools available from snap on, Mac, Cornwell. etc.
some tricks ive done with stuck or broken screws include, first start with heating then up. if Phillips hole buggered. get out the Dremel and make it into slotted screw. ive welded nuts on top of buggered screw heads. but you need to be able to tig or at least mig weld stainless , sharps small center punch then drill em out with left hand American, Japanese or German made cobalt bits. usually one of these will get the job done.
.
your motors got a problem, you have to take off whatever is in the way to get at what needs replacing. motors are built in layers, pull the carb if you have to. if you don't have the proper quality tools or if your not comfortable pulling the carb to get at the linkage shaft screw it might just be best to let the dealer or other qualified mechanic fix it. craftsman used to make a very good quality screw driver that had some sort of grit on the tip maybe the ace hardware or Lowes still carries them.
your in Florida, yeah. I bet the local vo tech school has a marine mechanics program. maybe they can help you out.

[rbuck351]

If you are afraid of taking off a carburetor, you need to take it to a pro.

Putting a bit of valve grinding compound on screw bits will help prevent them from slipping out,but you do need tomake sure the bit is the right type and size for the screw.

[Land Owner]

I removed the carburetor and gave myself some breathing room and work space. I feel a solution is near...said the man just before the BIG hammer came out.

The middle screw came out with no problem. They are definitely JIS screws, evidenced by the small indent in the screw head (see inset pic).

I made a montage of the parts in pictures below. #24 is a METAL shaft with a plastic tip on the right hand end (not shown - not a problem - yet).

I tried every tool bit I have. None are JIS. Retooling or other solution is at hand. Offending screw is boogered up some.

The broken part #31 is shown (lower rt. pic). What is the chance, if it was REAL clean, that JB Weld and a dab of petroleum jelly on the metal pin (inserted) would hold the thrust of this linkage?

https://i.postimg.cc/jS294fc0/Offending-Screw-2.jpg

[Scrounge]

A dab of grease applied to the steel and wiped off, another dab of JB Weld formed into the rough shape of the broken/missing part and pressed in place, and a wrap with a nylon tie strap to secure things while the JB Weld cures might just do the job.

Bill

[megasupermagnum]

You don't need anything special. The only real difference between Philips and JIS, is the depth. All you do is grind a little off of the tip of a Philips bit until the 4 sides fully engage, and you are done. Based on what I'm seeing, start with a Philips #1. If the store just happens to have a long JIS bit, buy that. Borrow that 1/4" impact. It will either get the screw out or break it off, both good outcomes for what you want.

[farmbif]

Titusville has a bunch of pawn shops, its quite possible to get a good soldering iron for cheap, might look for small and needle nose vise grips at the same time plus its good excuse to see what kinds of guns and reloading stuff they might have..
saw you pictures, you got a slot in screw for straight blade screwdriver. you got to heat that screw up. to get it out. even if you got to cut that plastic piece off so you can heat it and turn it with mini vise grips if the slot or Phillips is buggered.
as far as jb weld, on your shift linkage ---I don't think so-- but I don't fix something unless I can put it back just like its supposed to be.
I'm not sure about current plastic welders but you'll be best off to get that screw out without buggering up the threads in shift shaft and put new plastic piece on.
I spent 4 years in outboard school and about 1/2 my life repairing and rebuilding outboards., I'm not a gunsmith but I got certifications in outboard repair.

[farmbif]

you got to persuade that screw out gently. if you break it you will have to drill the screw out and rethread the hole. witch can lead to a whole bunch more work. and if there is not enough room to slide the shaft out you will have to pull powerhead and replace base gasket. Yamaha gaskets have sealers on them and you will need a die grinder and medium roloc disk to clean old gasket off surfaces.

[farmbif]

ive got several solder irons in my tool boxes, both electric and butane, this one is my favorite

https://www.masterappliance.com/ultratorch-ut-200si-soldering-iron-heat-tool/

but also have an old electric one that I think was used in radiator shot that is real helpful too

but a mapp gas or propane torch with small burner will do what you need

use wet rags to cover stuff you don't want to heat

[Land Owner]

With the carburetor removed, there is room to work. I spent a portion of the evening with a cigar lighter (thin blue-line torch) heating to red hot (and melting some plastic) and Kroil cooling the two bolts. This morning I will try to remove them with more heat and a pointed nose mini-vice grip or...

...with the one screw that is already out, fashion a Phillips bit to suit the JIS slots. Gentle persuasion rather than a bigger hammer and fixed correctly is the way forward. I appreciate all of your "collective thinking" with regard to this removal and I will update the Forum.

[MaryB]

I removed the carburetor and gave myself some breathing room and work space. I feel a solution is near...said the man just before the BIG hammer came out.

The middle screw came out with no problem. They are definitely JIS screws, evidenced by the small indent in the screw head (see inset pic).

I made a montage of the parts in pictures below. #24 is a METAL shaft with a plastic tip on the right hand end (not shown - not a problem - yet).

I tried every tool bit I have. None are JIS. Retooling or other solution is at hand. Offending screw is boogered up some.

The broken part #31 is shown (lower rt. pic). What is the chance, if it was REAL clean, that JB Weld and a dab of petroleum jelly on the metal pin (inserted) would hold the thrust of this linkage?

https://i.postimg.cc/jS294fc0/Offending-Screw-2.jpg

Lot of pressure in that area... they start cracking and the crack grows but it collects dirt an grease before snapping. Getting it clean enough for JB weld to hold could be a problem and it would suck for this to break and strand you out on the lake. Been there done that, rowed 5 miles... hated life with blistered hands the rest of the weekend.

[Land Owner]

Heat got the other and the Dremel did the job to a point. I am left with a few scratches, a removed broken part #31, and ALL but the last remnant of the offending screw(s) off of #24, which is good to reuse. The replacement parts are ordered.

Now...how to get the remnant screw out? There isn't sufficient room to get a mini-vide grip on it. I don't weld. Maybe my friend could.

I could, with care, Dremel a slot in the remnant, but that isn't assured to get it out with the big standard screw driver.

https://i.postimg.cc/6qV599h9/Offending-Screw-4.jpg

[MaryB]

With the carburetor removed, there is room to work. I spent a portion of the evening with a cigar lighter (thin blue-line torch) heating to red hot (and melting some plastic) and Kroil cooling the two bolts. This morning I will try to remove them with more heat and a pointed nose mini-vice grip or...

...with the one screw that is already out, fashion a Phillips bit to suit the JIS slots. Gentle persuasion rather than a bigger hammer and fixed correctly is the way forward. I appreciate all of your "collective thinking" with regard to this removal and I will update the Forum.

My experience with a JIS screw is once it is stripped from using a phillips it becomes a major pain to remove. If you can get at it and have a mini vice grip to clamp on the head that can get them out. I have also ground 2 sides flat with a dremel and used a small adjustable wrench(I have one that is 4" long! Leftover from my days of electronic repair) to break it loose.Yes you can grind a phillips down a bit but it is not the same as a JIS, the angle of the 4 blades is different between them.

https://bike.bikegremlin.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/phillips-vs-jis-screwdriver-tip-differences.jpg

"(A) in the picture above shows the difference in the way screws are marked, though not all the JIS screws are marked with such dot (1).
(B) shows how Phillips has a very slight curve (2) – not really visible to the naked eye (exaggerated in the drawing), but it makes the difference when force is applied, “helping” the screwdriver slip out (and in).
(C) and (D) show tip cross-section, when looking straight at the tip. Philips has a slightly larger radius (3), which prevents it from fitting properly into JIS screws."

[farmbif]

how much is a new shift shaft and is there enough space in lower cowling to slide it out?

[farmbif]

you could try slotting it but like you say about screw driver length, you either have to find an extra long one or use a bit holder and long or several 1/4" drive extensions. and if that don't work you will have to cut or grind screw off flush and either pull shaft and replace it or try to center punch and drill the screw out and either save the treads or rethread it, a whole new can of worms, not such easy task with such small screw threads what is it like m3 or m3.5.
I say save yourself the aggravation if you can pull the shaft and get a new one in.

[farmbif]

the way you have had to fight that little screw, even with getting it hot to break locktite bond it still broke. and it sure don't look like there is a whole lot of corrosion on that motor from pictures anyway. not like a lot of little kickers Ive seen that have spent years hanging from divots over a saltwater canal where every single fastener needs to heated with plumbers acetylene torch.
it may have been cross threaded right from the factory.

[Newtire]

3-seconds with the little torch should melt the loctite. Not red hot!

[megasupermagnum]

You got the result you want. All you have to do is file or Dremel that nub flat, and the whole part comes out. Then you can choose to either extract the screw, or just buy a new shaft.

[jsizemore]

Drill it, tap it and get a new machine screw.

[Land Owner]

It has been a GOOD day. The offending screw is OUT of the outboard and new parts are ordered for this control linkage repair.

There isn't enough room on the right side between the support and the side wall of the bottom cowling to allow #24 to be removed. I looked at dropping the cowling. That's wasn't the way I wanted to go.

Quite right farmbif - there is little to no corrosion on this lightly used motor. It was primarily a backup for its 15 hp "Brother" on the 14-ft. Jon boat we used for duck hunting. Should the 15 fail, the 9.9 would get the nod. I have had little need to use it as keeping the 15 up and running has been straight forward and "easy" by comparison. Then "The Boy" took the 9.9 out on my 12-ft. Jon boat with his "friends" for a couple of weekend salt water excursions and brought it back broken. It could have happened to me...but, Boys and their Toys.

Side by side (pictured below) is part #32 and #32 MODIFIED. I put a 3/8" machine threaded nut on the stub. My friend zip-welded the nut to the stub. The high heat and 1/4" ratchet "walked it out" smartly.

Time now for a cold brewski...maybe two!

https://i.postimg.cc/85CJ5f0Z/Offending-Screw-6.jpg

[farmbif]

well done, glad you got it out

[Land Owner]

Thanks. Perseverance I think. Something I have learned through deer hunting. And a light touch rather than in my youth when frustration would have led me down other paths.

I am doing this for my BIL - who I like very much. He's buying the 9.9 to replace a 3.5 on his Gheenoe. He is undoubtedly a more accomplished "wrench turner" than am I. I could not, in good conscience, make him "work this out" after I sell him the 9.9 (with acknowledgement of the issue of course). My cherished life partner is his sister. His life partner is our close friend. I know the future will be good to the four of us. We get along like peas and honey...