What is your blade steel preference?

[littlejack]

Last Friday, I ordered a knife from Blade HQ. The knife being a Bear Ops Bear Swipe lll (long name) This is a sister company of the Bear and Sons Cutlery in Jacksonville, Alabama. I received the knife Monday the 16th. I had never heard of this company until I started my search for a decent EDC knife. Myself not being a knife junky, I did not know the great amount of many different steels that are offered as blade steel. My particular knife has 14C28N steel for its blade. The composition is such that it is fairly easy to sharpen, holds an edge pretty well, rather tough, and has enough chromium in it to be called stainless steel. This particular knife shows off the craftsmanship that was put into its manufacturing. Very nice assisted opening for EDC. So, with all that said, anyone want to comment on their expierience with this particular steel, or any other steels that you prefere?

[358429]

I like 1095 carbon for my gardening matchetes. It's soft and durable so striking rocks rolls instead of chips the sharp edge. I sharpen with a mill file and use the sun's reflection from the blades edge to guide my hand. I have also used sandpaper attached to wood with screws to do the same thing.

I do have a favorite little camp knife made with fancy chinesium steel called 9Cr18MoV. Takes forever to sharpen and need to use the diamond and ceramics if you value your patience. "Brow tine" made by crkt.

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[Chill Wills]

It is in the Budget category of the good knife steel. Budget does not mean bad, not at all. It means large batch size (foundry run) can be made for the knife industry and the cost is kept down.
14C28N steel is a very good balance of the four properties, edge retention, toughness, ease of sharpening, and corrosion resistance.
It is good EDC knife steel. It is not outstanding in any one area nor is it lacking in any one area either. In steel, everything is a tradeoff.

[echo154]

Your question is not easy to answer as you do not state intended use other than EDC. If you use the EDC for cutting all manner of garbage I would stay on the low price end. My EDC knives are from Benchmade and Microtec. I carry the Micotech for Dress carry...IE nice blue jeans and button up shirt.....I carry the Benchmade a very large percentage of the time it is the Benchmade. The Microtech has an S-30-V blade and the Benchmade is from ATS-34. I also have High Carbon steel bush knives. Carbon will rust quickly if not cared for. The stainless alloys are much more user friendly, though I would shy away from dirt cheap stuff...unless your gonna dig in the dirt while metal detecting. The other things to consider wether you want any serration on the blade.....great for cutting rope, cordage etc., or smooth edge......I have both I like a combo blade but must admit my main EDC is a Benchmade with straight edge. It sharpens well and is dependable. I prefer either AUS A 8 or the S-V-30 stainless FWIW.

[echo154]

By the way Chill Wills was one of my favorite character actors (my favorite was him in McClintock)! to address a budget EDC.....I would say that certain things are a tradeoff. My grandpa who was poor in his early days (self taught master machines by his 30's) spoke of Buying the best tools you can afford...you usually only buy them once! My first knife was a Buck 3 blade pocket folder, which I still have. Like I always tell my wife when she asks me if I have a knife...."I've got my pants on don't I".

[sharps4590]

Favorite, pattern welded, most owned, good carbos steel. Least favorite, stainless.

[GhostHawk]

I prefer good carbon steel but have learned the last 10 years that stainless if taken care of will hold an edge longer. It will take a little more work to keep that edge in good operating condition. But not that much more.

As to the particular knife you mentioned, it fails on a couple of points for me.

A I admit that I am a knife and gun ***** but I am a cheap one. Yours is about double what I would ever spend.

B Pocket clip is on the wrong end. Should be on the other end. So when you slide it out your finger falls naturally on the flipper to open it. The way it is at some point you have to give the knife a 180 degree flip to orrient itself to your hand correctly. Which is a point where Murphy can step in and cause a bobble.
Just at the point when you need it in your hand, open, ready for business.

C IMO the blade is a touch short. I'd of been happier with a 3.25 to 3.5 inch blade.

D As to steel, only way you know that for sure is time and experience.

https://www.amazon.com/Eafengrow-Cleaver-Assisted-Multitool-EF64-J-gray/dp/B07K9NG6MF/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07K9NG6MF&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VHNVLHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/KCCEDGE-BEST-CUTLERY-SOURCE-Accessories/dp/B07W7C45NW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Boot+hill+razor+knife&qid=1629375356&sr=8-1

Bought my first 2 from BudK for 20$.
The Damascus black takes and holds and edge well.

I see with this one they got the pocket clip fixed. So ordered one to test it out. If it makes the grade its my new EDC.
17.15 with tax from Amazon.

[Dom]

What ever Buck knives uses. They have not failed me for decades.

[Chill Wills]

By the way Chill Wills was one of my favorite character actors (my favorite was him in McClintock)! .

Me too - he was able to put a lot of color into his supporting roll in McClintock.
To keep it on topic, I am sure they carried high carbon blades in those days.

[Buck Shot]

I've been a fan of certain SS steels used by Case XX knives...I think they might call it "surgical stainless" or something like that. Takes a scary-sharp edge and holds it very well (at least for SS), in my experience.

I've also had good results with the Frosts Mora (non-stainless) laminated steel, with a layer of very hard steel sandwiched between tougher, more ductile steels. Takes a super-sharp edge, and holds it very, very sell, so long as you don't drop it and nick it.

[megasupermagnum]

What ever Buck knives uses. They have not failed me for decades.

There's more than one, but the standard is 420HC. I have a hard time finding any other alloy that is truly better overall.

[littlejack]

358429:
That Brow Tine is a really nice lookin knife. From what I have read about the d iui fferent steels for blades, the 9Cr18MoV is a pretty good. As far as Japan and Chinese steels go, they can match any metal makeup made anywhere, as can other countries. Way back, when I was a kid most anything made in Taiwan, or China and some Japanese items, was junk. I guess it all depends on how much quality they want to put into a product.
Chill Wills, I did look up the strong and weak points of the 14C28N steel in my search, and it did look like a good combination of the properties for a knife steel.
Echo 154, I tend to treat my EDC knifes with care, as with most everything I own. I guess I've learned during my life, if you're gonna shell out your hard earned money for an item, it's worth taking care of. I don't use them for screw drivers or scrapers, hacking on wood, try to pound it through a tree limb, etc. If in an emergency scenario, it would be a whole different story. So, I guess whittling, cutting rope, cardboard, jerky, pepperoni, cleaning fish, dressing game, slicing fruit, castrating calves, would be my EDC usage. Even if I carried an old junker knife, it would still be against my grain to abuse it. I can't help myself. :killingpc
Sharps 45-90. I've never owned or used a welded, and or Damascus blade they sure purty though. Some a down right beautiful.
I have a couple carbon blades. While in Germany many, many years ago, my bil bought me a Puma Hunters Pal with the high carbon steel blade. It is a very fine knife.
Ghost hawk, I have a carbon steel Schrade Old Timer two blade folder. It's a big'n, 5.375 folded up. I tend to like bigger blades. Maybe from Dundee's holding is up and saying, That's a knife". Great line. Anyway, carried the Old Timer in its sheath under my coveralls for years. I worked in the steel fabrication trade. My coveralls eventually wore a hole through through the leather on the bottom outside corner. The blades on this knife are razor sharp. I really like carbon, but my stainless blades will also shave my arm with ease. My new Bear Swipe lll removed 39.99 from my wallet, but I think it was money well spent. It too has a 3 5/8"blade.
Dom, my dad bought my brother and I Buck knives one year for Chriatmas. It has passed many years ago. Although I carried it for a decade, I wasn't very happy with its edge holding capabilities. It would sharpen very well though.
Buck Shot, I have never owned a Case knife, but have never heard anything bad about them. I don't know if they changed their type of steel over the years, but others years ago used to swear by their quality.
Sorry for all the rambling fellas. I figure if someone takes the time to post a reply, it's worth my time to reply back.
Regards

[beemer]

I have a good many knives from old to new, stainless and carbon, higher end and cheep. Most any reputable brand make good serviceable knives, you just have to find the style, features and steel that fit your needs and all is well.

I am pretty picky about my EDC, A Buck with the clip on the back end and a Victorinox with a phillips screw driver, don't need no stinken' cork screw. The Buck 420HC is a good trade off for me, easy to sharpen and holds a decent edge.

The last Buck pocket knife I bought had the higher end steel, should have bought three of the same pattern with 420HC.

Dave

[tazman]

I have an early Cold Steel Tanto made with their San Mai steel. It is more useful as a skinning knife on large game than you would ever believe unless you tried it. It holds an edge as well as any knife I have ever used. I also have one of their early Ranger Tanto knives in coated carbon steel. It does really well also. A good combination of easy sharpening and edge holding.
I once skinned and cut up six whitetail deer over the course of two days without ever re-sharpening either of those blades and they had sections of the blades that would still shave hair off your arm after I finished.
Whatever steel they are/were using was really good stuff.
When I am in the woods, I carry lighter and less expensive Buck knives because I don't need that kind of capability in a woods knife. I also don't want to lose either of them.

[littlejack]

Dave, quite a few years ago, I bought two Kershaw Whirlwind assisted opening knives. I gave one to my brother. I carried mine for a few years then one day I found it was no longer clipped in my pocket. Yep, the clip hooked on something and it was gone. This had been my favorite EDC knife. I found out later that the blade steel was the 14C28N. It Sharpened easily and held the edge pretty well. I never did get around to replacing it. So now they've stopped making them and the survivors are sky high. :2_high5: I'm with you on the corkscrews.
Tazman, wow, that sounds like good steel.
What is "coated carbon"?

[poppy42]

I have an early Cold Steel Tanto made with their San Mai steel. It is more useful as a skinning knife on large game than you would ever believe unless you tried it. It holds an edge as well as any knife I have ever used. I also have one of their early Ranger Tanto knives in coated carbon steel. It does really well also. A good combination of easy sharpening and edge holding.
I once skinned and cut up six whitetail deer over the course of two days without ever re-sharpening either of those blades and they had sections of the blades that would still shave hair off your arm after I finished.
Whatever steel they are/were using was really good stuff.
When I am in the woods, I carry lighter and less expensive Buck knives because I don't need that kind of capability in a woods knife. I also don't want to lose either of them.

San mai is not a steel, It’s a technique to make a type of Damascus steel. San mai technique sandwiches a layer of high carbon steel between two layers of mild steel forge welded together. The mild steel on the outside is ground away exposing the high carbon steel for the edge of the blade. The mild steel gives the blade strength and flexibility well I carbon steel allows it to maintain a superior edge!

[tazman]

San mai is not a steel, It’s a technique to make a type of Damascus steel. San mai technique sandwiches a layer of high carbon steel between two layers of mild steel forge welded together. The mild steel on the outside is ground away exposing the high carbon steel for the edge of the blade. The mild steel gives the blade strength and flexibility well I carbon steel allows it to maintain a superior edge!

The fun part is, it works really well.

[littlejack]

Thank you for that information Poppy. Interesting technique.

[444ttd]

mine was made in WV by marvin wotring (RIP). he used steel banding in my damascus knife. it holds the edge better than any of my buck and schrader knives.

https://i.imgur.com/yUwAxDQ.jpg

[jonp]

I started a similar thread some time ago and am happy to see a few knife steels i have not heard of. Ive bought several knives from Blade HQ and highly recommend them for selection amd price. I even bought the wife a new EDC for her birthday and had it personnalized for a nominal fee.

Ive gone to 8Cr13MoV as the more highly priced steels are too expensive considering the rate I lose EDC which is at 4? Spyderco's and counting. It has a good edge retention and is not hard to sharpen. 10 strokes each coarse and fine on a ceramic pocket sharpener and its ready to go. After a few Spyderco partial serrated edges I wont carry anything else.

Current carry is either a Byrd Harrier 2 or a Meadowlark (Byrd is Spyderco with cheaper steel made in China) bought from Blade HQ. Ive bought 4 Meadowlarks as they fit my hand and are slim enough to clip in my front left pocket keeping out of the way but large enough for tasks not requiring a fixed blade which are mostly covered by a few Mora.

Deer hunting i carry a bone handled fixed blade my Grandfather brought back from Germany after WW2

[littlejack]

444ttd, that's a very interesting blade. Being in the steel trade for years, we would call that lamination, separation or cold lap. Apparently that fella had his process down pat.
jono, that Medowlarks blade is seriously serated. That would maybe be one of the best for cutting rope and/or seatbelts.
I ordered a Kershaw Outright a couple days ago. It also has the 8Cr13MoV steel. I really like its design. Nice lines, and the blade configuration coming off the handle. I liked the blue/black, pretty classy.
I may have to pick up a Kershaw Blur to replace the Whirlwind I lost.

[littlejack]

Wow, my Kershaw Outright just came in the mail. I just put my order in to Blade HQ on the 17th. That is super fast delivery in my book. The knife is as described, and pictured. Very nice. Razor edge from the factory. It's a little stiff, but it'll smooth out in a while. So far, I have no complaints with Blade HQ. Super service, and great deliver time.

[jonp]

Wow, my Kershaw Outright just came in the mail. I just put my order in to Blade HQ on the 17th. That is super fast delivery in my book. The knife is as described, and pictured. Very nice. Razor edge from the factory. It's a little stiff, but it'll smooth out in a while. So far, I have no complaints with Blade HQ. Super service, and great deliver time.

I have been very impressed with Blade HQ both with price and shipping. Glad you like the knife and after reading this thread I ordered another from them.

Cutting rope and such was what i had in mind ordering the Meadowlark and why ive gone to partial serrated. Does that in spades as well as trimmer string, plastic packaging, twine, skinning wire, tendons etc.

[littlejack]

I'm sorry I pulled you off the wagon. Vices are hard to break. What knife did order, if you don't mind me asking?

[jonp]

I'm sorry I pulled you off the wagon. Vices are hard to break. What knife did order, if you don't mind me asking?

Kizer Azo Vanguard https://www.bladehq.com/item--Kizer-Vanguard-Series-Begleiter--117228 The steel seems comparable to VG10 which I've had in a couple of Spyderco Delica's and am sold on it as an EDC steel. The Delica design is why I carry the Byrd's.

Knives are one of the things my better half may look at me a little sideways but never says a word as she knows how important and useful having one in your pocket or on your belt can be. Wife never carried one till she met me but now carries one everyday and has said on more than one occasion how much she never knew she would use it or have people ask "anyone got a knife" and she does. Last time was in a group with several men and only she pulled a pocket knife out. Carries a Spyderco Bug and a Byrd Meadowlark. Got some looks most likely of envy, lol

One of these is very useful I've found https://www.bladehq.com/item--SharpNEasy-2-Step-Knife--7955 I have this and one with a fold out bar for serrations.

[jonp]

I prefer good carbon steel but have learned the last 10 years that stainless if taken care of will hold an edge longer. It will take a little more work to keep that edge in good operating condition. But not that much more.

As to the particular knife you mentioned, it fails on a couple of points for me.

A I admit that I am a knife and gun ***** but I am a cheap one. Yours is about double what I would ever spend.

B Pocket clip is on the wrong end. Should be on the other end. So when you slide it out your finger falls naturally on the flipper to open it. The way it is at some point you have to give the knife a 180 degree flip to orrient itself to your hand correctly. Which is a point where Murphy can step in and cause a bobble.
Just at the point when you need it in your hand, open, ready for business.

C IMO the blade is a touch short. I'd of been happier with a 3.25 to 3.5 inch blade.

D As to steel, only way you know that for sure is time and experience.

https://www.amazon.com/Eafengrow-Cleaver-Assisted-Multitool-EF64-J-gray/dp/B07K9NG6MF/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07K9NG6MF&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VHNVLHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/KCCEDGE-BEST-CUTLERY-SOURCE-Accessories/dp/B07W7C45NW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Boot+hill+razor+knife&qid=1629375356&sr=8-1

Bought my first 2 from BudK for 20$.
The Damascus black takes and holds and edge well.

I see with this one they got the pocket clip fixed. So ordered one to test it out. If it makes the grade its my new EDC.
17.15 with tax from Amazon.

I certainly agree with you on the clip. I like hinge down. Reach for it and open with one hand, no fumbling. What do you use that third one for? I can't find a reason for having that blade design but I'm not a fan of a tanto either.

[jonp]

mine was made in WV by marvin wotring (RIP). he used steel banding in my damascus knife. it holds the edge better than any of my buck and schrader knives.

https://i.imgur.com/yUwAxDQ.jpg

Oh Boy! That is a beautiful knife. I'd be afraid to take it out of the house.

[444ttd]

Oh Boy! That is a beautiful knife. I'd be afraid to take it out of the house.


i got it at a gun show in WV. i was looking for a custom knife at the 10 or so years ago. there was somebody(i don't know the name) that made knives and he had tables full of them. he also had many customers, so i didn't stay there. i was looking at another table for a knife and he(startled me) said $70 for it. i gave $80 and said keep the change. i talked to him(never knew the name of him) and he said he made the knives and other things at his shop. steel bands, harley bike chains....he'd make them into knives.

when i get home, i remember where he was and i find him on the 'puter. not only he does custom knives, he does custom muskets!!!!!!




https://wvmetronews.com/2019/02/02/marvin-wotrings-one-last-gift/

[GhostHawk]

I certainly agree with you on the clip. I like hinge down. Reach for it and open with one hand, no fumbling. What do you use that third one for? I can't find a reason for having that blade design but I'm not a fan of a tanto either.

First one I found like that was sold on Budk for 20$. I carried it daily for some 8 or 9 months. Very handy for opening Amazon boxes. Holds an edge pretty well. And I like the looks of the Damascus. But I probably bought it as much for intimidation factor as anything.

The Amazon one arrived a couple of days ago and it came sharp. Love having the clip on the right end. So momma gained a knife for her collection. In a purse clip is not all that necessary. I think for now it is sitting on her bedside table for opening boxes.

[Loudenboomer]

CPM M4 Tuff and hard balance. If stainless is needed M390.

[littlejack]

Jonp
Your new Kizer knife is very practible. Plain no frills EDC. I like that particular straight blade look.
Ghost hawk, I agree with you on the damascus blades. Some of those designs it makes are absolutely beautiful. Yes, it does gave the intimidation factor. Resembling the straight razor.

[Bazoo]

I generally like knives of the buck, case, and schrade variety. New buck with 420hc. Case with either cv carbon or stainless, I’m told the cv is 1084 with chromium added. Schrade used 1095 for their carbon, and 440A for their stainless mostly. Easy to sharpen is my primary concern, then, how it cuts. I’d rather have a knife that sharpens on an Arkansas stone but needs sharpening daily, than one that needs a diamond stone but stays sharp forever, but is hard to sharpen when it does need it.

My favorite knives include; buck 192, buck 110, case large stockman in stainless, old timer 34ot, old timer 33ot, old timer 143ot. For a single bladed one hand opening knife, the buck 345.

I like the bench made 3310. It don’t own one anymore. I didn’t like the blade steel, but it sure was cool.

[Tim357]

I generally like knives of the buck, case, and schrade variety. New buck with 420hc. Case with either cv carbon or stainless, I’m told the cv is 1084 with chromium added. Schrade used 1095 for their carbon, and 440A for their stainless mostly. Easy to sharpen is my primary concern, then, how it cuts. I’d rather have a knife that sharpens on an Arkansas stone but needs sharpening daily, than one that needs a diamond stone but stays sharp forever, but is hard to sharpen when it does need it.


This pretty much sums up my requirements. 1095 is probably the one steel I have the most knives made of. Case CV is a pretty decent steel now that Schrade is no longer using 1095. Gerber and Buck use decent stainless, but Buck is one of those that takes a long time to sharpen once the factory edge is gone. The only time i really regretted 1095 was when i lived in Biloxi years back

[358429]

Here are some pictures of my camping knife.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/afb751de6bc8871ad4bc9dce841ddd60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/25d7f92e8d8e5da5d51d9a45223d8211.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/0007ecce6ffb9c6154cf57ced3b2d2d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/fe030a93e7a3dfdef6d1f5c41cff5d8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/dbb2093d3ab7bb9425935a167b5a81cc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210827/2f7160b6fb4edf0d18154f210de67226.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[littlejack]

Really nice looking knife. I like the inlays.

[Darrin S]

I'm a custom knifemaker. I made the prototype for the Spyderco Waterway. I also designed and made the prototype for the Spyderco Province. Trying to pick just one steel is like trying to pick one gun. You wouldn't varmint hunt with a .460 Wby. and you wouldn't hunt Buffalo with a .22 LR. The main use for a particular knife will have a lot to do with the best steel for that application. When considering steels for an EDC/pocket knife, I prefer CPM-4V unless stainless is a necessity. If that is the case, I really like M390 or any of its variants such as 20 CV, CTS-204P.

[littlejack]

Welcome to the CastBoolits Darrin. I really like the looks of that Waterway. Although the price is to rich for my blood, I'm sure it would be considered a top grade knife. I don't mind a lesser grade steel, at a lesser price. I'm ok with a little touch up, after usage of a lesser grade steel. I'm also ok with the lesser corrosion resistance, as I do take care of my blades with proper maintenance. Im sure the Waterway would be right at home in any marine conditions, either fresh or salt water. Thanks for sharing.

[Darrin S]

Welcome to the CastBoolits Darrin. I really like the looks of that Waterway. Although the price is to rich for my blood, I'm sure it would be considered a top grade knife. I don't mind a lesser grade steel, at a lesser price. I'm ok with a little touch up, after usage of a lesser grade steel. I'm also ok with the lesser corrosion resistance, as I do take care of my blades with proper maintenance. Im sure the Waterway would be right at home in any marine conditions, either fresh or salt water. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks littlejack, the steel in the Waterway isn't a top edge holder. Its biggest asset is its corrosion resistance. It was formulated by NASA for that specific purpose and it does it very well. The designer (Lance Clinton) fishes daily in the Pacific ocean so corrosion is a must for him. He tells me that he uses it almost daily and washes it with salt water and it still doesn't have a speck on it. I agree that a version with a cheaper but still quality steel would be a great seller. Thanks for the welcome and if I can ever help with anything just let me know.

[littlejack]

Thank you sir.

[Chill Wills]

The main use for a particular knife will have a lot to do with the best steel for that application. When considering steels for an EDC/pocket knife, I prefer CPM-4V unless stainless is a necessity. If that is the case, I really like M390 or any of its variants such as 20 CV, CTS-204P.

The CPM-4V is a really good alloy and I wish it was the steel in my Buck EDC. Toughness and edge retention are among the very good points. I keep the old 1970's era buck on my hip daily due to the decades I have carried it. I am sentimental. Darrin you are name dropping some top end steel alloys. Clearly you are in the know. Any of those above alloys would make into a very good blade.

[Bazoo]

The new bucks are different than the old ones and much easier to Resharpen.

[megasupermagnum]

The new bucks are different than the old ones and much easier to Resharpen.

I suppose that depends on your age. Buck's been mainly using 420hc for at least 30 years now.

[44MAG#1]

I carry 4 knives. An older Spyderco Endura with ATS 55, A Spyderco Resilience with 8Cr13MOV, a Benchmade with CPM M4 and an Opinel. I don't really worry about the steel. I have a few knives with the so called "SUPER STEELS" that suppose to be good.
I have cheap knives to some slightly pricey knives.
One custom knife. Cheap fixed blade, to medium priced fixed blades.
Still don't really worry about it.

[Chill Wills]

The new bucks are different than the old ones and much easier to Resharpen.

According to this source, the different 400 series steels Buck used over the years are very close to the same with some minor changes.
You may find this reference interesting. https://www.bladehq.com/cat--Best-Knife-Steel-Guide--3368#400series

[Darrin S]

The CPM-4V is a really good alloy and I wish it was the steel in my Buck EDC. Toughness and edge retention are among the very good points. I keep the old 1970's era buck on my hip daily due to the decades I have carried it. I am sentimental. Darrin you are name dropping some top end steel alloys. Clearly you are in the know. Any of those above alloys would make into a very good blade.

If it aint broke don't fix it right? I have old knives that I owned before I started making knives in 2007. Those lower grade alloys are still more than adequate for the things most of us cut on a regular basis. Higher grade alloys allow us custom makers to tailor make one off blades for very specific purposes. Some people get into the weeds when they start cutting nails and chopping cinder blocks. Those are parlor tricks to impress people who don't understand blade geometry. You can take a low grade alloy, grind it with cold chisel geometry, & chop 16 penny nails in half all day long. Take that knife and try to cut stuff with it and you'll find that it doesn't cut well at all. My point is that there is a lot more to a knife than the steel its made of. You can use the most expensive, highest grade alloy on the market but if you don't heat treat it properly, temper it to the proper hardness, & grind it to the proper geometry it probably wont perform any better than that ol' Buck you've been carrying for years. However, it is possible to use those alloys to perform very specific jobs very well. I sent a test knife to an independent tester. He cuts cardboard in 12" strips one at a time. The steel was CPM-10V and he quit when he got to 5,280 strips. Thats right, he cut a mile of cardboard and the blade was still cutting. Now I'm not claiming that it was any kind of mojo on my part. Crucible made the steel and anybody can buy it. All I did was heat treat it and grind it properly. Cheers.

[Loudenboomer]

Welcome to Cast Boolits Darrin. I own one of Darrin's Knives. A large camp/chopper in 1075 steel. A craftsmen who knows his stuff!

[Darrin S]

Welcome to Cast Boolits Darrin. I own one of Darrin's Knives. A large camp/chopper in 1075 steel. A craftsmen who knows his stuff!

Thanks for the kind words. I hope your knife is serving you well.

[farmbif]

I guess those of us that have a habit of collecting guns also collect knives. ive got a few old and new but seem to carry and use a boker Kalashnikov automatic the most the AUS8 blade gets super sharp and holds an edge you can shave with very well but if I want something smaller in my pocket its usually the amber case trapper but for a folder in the belt pouch its a buck 112 or the 110, and if a bigger blade is what im wanting to carry its the buck 119. but all this talk of knives got me looking around for what new might be out there and came across USA made Ka-Bar 10" chopper blade for $40 that I'm on the fence of pushing the button and having it come in the mail box in a few days

[Traffer]

I have a $2 jack knife made in China on my key chain. I keep it sharp and it is great. Other than that I use knives in the kitchen. Have some pretty good ones: Chicago Cutlery and some made in Japan.