02 Accord 2.3L 5spd - Spark Plug Change Interval

[Norcal707]

Have 25k on a set of NGK Platinum plugs in my 02 Accord 2.3L 5spd. How many miles should I run them before replacing? I believe Honda recommends 30k/24 months for regular plugs.

On a side note, I'd like to pick up a decent feeler gauge set for gapping plugs. Amazon has a variety but lots are Chinese made that I'd rather avoid. Any reasonably priced suggestions would be appreciated.

[Hick]

Don't know-- but your post caught my eye-- many modern American cars go 100,000 before the manufacturer recommends changing spark plugs (our Ford Explorer manual says 100k). I'm surprised a Honda would be so short.

[TyGuy]

Been a tech for Honda for the past 15 years. Your Accord is the beginning of what I consider “modern Honda” and thus I would recommend plugs at 105k along with the timing belt, water pump, and coolant.

Take good care of it and that car will last a looooong time. You have the best engine/trans combo for longevity.

As to the gap tool, the platinum NGK plugs (at least the OEM ones) come pre-gapped and we are specifically instructed not to adjust them. NGK is the only brand I use in my Hondas and the only one I recommend.

[Traffer]

I have a '99 Civic that I bought new. First spark plug change was at 55k miles. It has 250k now and the engine still runs like a new car.
I buy a new car every 24 years whether I need one or not. (It is practically the only car I have driven in the last 22 years)

[Traffer]

Been a tech for Honda for the past 15 years. Your Accord is the beginning of what I consider “modern Honda” and thus I would recommend plugs at 105k along with the timing belt, water pump, and coolant.

Take good care of it and that car will last a looooong time. You have the best engine/trans combo for longevity.

As to the gap tool, the platinum NGK plugs (at least the OEM ones) come pre-gapped and we are specifically instructed not to adjust them. NGK is the only brand I use in my Hondas and the only one I recommend.

I was a mechanic for "Foreign Cars" in the early 80's and I agree that NGK are the best. Bosch are OK but not to the standards of NGK.

[jim147]

I go over 200k these days. If you are having a problem that might change things but stuff is made so much better these days then it was in the '70's and before.

I don't even consider an engine broke in until after 100k or more. About 150-200k is when current engines shine if taken care of. This is coming from a guy that built engines for years.

[megasupermagnum]

I'm a little old school with spark plugs, because they are so easy to change. I've seen a lot of problems caused by worn out spark plugs that "just can't be" because they only had X miles on them. Usually people don't even realize it, as the first symptoms are lower fuel mileage, and usually a little rougher idle. You don't notice it so much with automatics, but with a manual transmission, you can get stumbling at low RPM's. My preference for spark plugs is 30,000 miles for standard spark plugs, or 50,000 miles for the fancy ones.

If you really want to be cheap, you can pull them out at that time, inspect them, and re-gap them. Usually they are worn enough by that time to justify replacement. What happens is both the gap opens up, and the electrodes erode away. Eventually you get a weak spark. The big problem I'm seeing is with people who run them 100,000 miles or more is that getting the plugs out is a bitch and a half. I just don't see any reason to be doing this, when a spark plug is $10 or less. I am an NGK fan, but I am also a Champion fan. I'm not sure why people avoid Champion, I've ran them in most things forever with great results. Avoid Autolite and Bosch, they can be spotty quality. I also recommend changing transmission oil at the same intervals.

My favorite spark plug gap tool is the following. There are multiple sets of these for different ranges, or metric and standard. This particular one would be more for small engines. Automotive gaps are usually in the .030" to .060" range. I have multiple of these, and they are fantastic. Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/Blackhawk-Proto-MT-1040-1-Regular-Spark/dp/B000LED4LC

[rbuck351]

I would not run the first set of plugs over 50k without pulling them and either replacing or at least putting anti sieze on the threads. The factory doesn't use anything on the threads and they tend to seize on the threads and destroy the threads. Very expensive to fix. With anti seize on the threads I wouldn't have a problem running them 100k or more. Modern engines run much hotter spark and electronic fuel systems that allow a plug that wouldn't fire in an earlier engine to run fine much longer. Plugs will now run with gaps that would not fire in the early engines. .030/.060 is normal but .060 is not the max allowable gap. I wouldn't worry about a gauge. If they have any thing that looks halfway ok when you open the pack, they will work fine.
Some of the ford PUs starting about 2000 are very difficult to replace plugs and if I ever took a plug out of one I would for sure put in a new one with anti seize.

There are two plugs that I consider the best, NGK and Nippon Denso. The Denso plugs are hard to find.

[cwtebay]

Been a tech for Honda for the past 15 years. Your Accord is the beginning of what I consider “modern Honda” and thus I would recommend plugs at 105k along with the timing belt, water pump, and coolant.

Take good care of it and that car will last a looooong time. You have the best engine/trans combo for longevity.

As to the gap tool, the platinum NGK plugs (at least the OEM ones) come pre-gapped and we are specifically instructed not to adjust them. NGK is the only brand I use in my Hondas and the only one I recommend.This is why I love this forum!! Someone posts a VERY specific question, and this guy ^^^^^ is an actual Honda tech!! And he answered the question admirably!!!

[Mal Paso]

PLUG WIRES especially if you live on a dirt road can make a bigger difference than plugs. It's just carbon inside whatever miracle fiber and that deteriorates with vibration and time. My "new" car missed at idle and new wires fixed it. The plugs were .02 over NGK Platinum, new ones coming.

[rockrat]

I usually change the fine wire plugs the first time at 50K, because, as said, if you wait, they can be a pain to change and possibly risk causing damage. I use anti-sieze and NGK plugs, but I have a gap check tool about the size of a silver dollar with graduated ramp around the edge, to check the gap. They usually are spot on, but I have found one or two plugs over many a year, that was out of spec. I suspect someone dropped the box with the mis-gapped plug. I usually buy a few extra plugs just in case one is out of spec. I will always use them later. Then I usually change plugs at 75K intervals. I use Iridium fine wire plugs. Its what the vehicle came with from the factory and even if it hadn't , I would use the Iridium plugs.

[megasupermagnum]

Chances are slim that anything dramatic will happen if you never check the gap on a spark plug. There are good reasons for doing so. All spark plugs are "pre-gapped", but to what, you can not know. It could be that your engine uses a spark plug that is specific to that engine. It could be that spark plug can fit a ton of engines. There's plenty of examples out there of spark plugs having a specified gap that is different from what your engine is supposed to use. You definitely want to at least make sure all the plugs are consistent to one another. A single plug that has a gap way off can cause issues. Those half dollar gauges are not great, but they are accurate enough for automotive purposes. The problem with them, is that you do not want to use them to open the gap on the expensive plugs, or you can break off the electrode. You can use pliers if you are very careful. The best way is to use a tool like the one I linked which makes things easy. If your car has plug wires, it should go without saying that you replace them with the plugs. I'm not sure if 2002 is still wires, or if they went to coil on plug by then.

I always check and adjust the gap on my spark plugs.

[David2011]

I would not run the first set of plugs over 50k without pulling them and either replacing or at least putting anti sieze on the threads. The factory doesn't use anything on the threads and they tend to seize on the threads and destroy the threads. Very expensive to fix. With anti seize on the threads I wouldn't have a problem running them 100k or more. Modern engines run much hotter spark and electronic fuel systems that allow a plug that wouldn't fire in an earlier engine to run fine much longer. Plugs will now run with gaps that would not fire in the early engines. .030/.060 is normal but .060 is not the max allowable gap. I wouldn't worry about a gauge. If they have any thing that looks halfway ok when you open the pack, they will work fine.
Some of the ford PUs starting about 2000 are very difficult to replace plugs and if I ever took a plug out of one I would for sure put in a new one with anti seize.

There are two plugs that I consider the best, NGK and Nippon Denso. The Denso plugs are hard to find.

My Honda tried to grab a plug when I changed them at about 70K. I sprayed some Kroil into the hole and slowly worked the plug back and forth until it freed up. Pucker time for a few minutes but it came out without any aluminum on the threads.

[Lloyd Smale]

i go 50k these days. You dont want to go much longer with aluminum heads because the plugs and get real difficult to get out if you wait to long. Also if you have aluminum heads make sure you put a bit of anticizes on the threads. I seen many plugs break and threads in the heads get mucked up by waiting to a 100k. That said ive seen plugs come out of a 100k modern cars that looked as good as new.

[TyGuy]

I have changed hundreds of Honda spark plugs and have never found one seized. In fact the opposite is more common. I’ve seen them blown back into the coil a decent number of times. Coils don’t appreciate that. That’s said, it certainly doesn’t mean it won’t happen. Cars surprise me all the time.

Any type of maintenance done earlier than recommended is great. You can’t over-maintain your car!

As Mal Paso mentioned, plug wires are also wise to do at the same time. OEM Honda wires are the best I’ve found yet. A good friend of mine built a Civic with a 700hp turbocharged B20. He paid out the nose for high end aftermarket wires and found the OEM gave more efficient ignition.

While you’re at it swap out the distributor cap and rotor. For my personal cars I keep a fresh igniter on hand as well. Twice now I’ve had igniters give up the ghost after a tune up. Nothing like sinking money into your car only to have it crank without spark. I guess they just couldn’t keep up with the new parts.

[Handloader109]

I have changed hundreds of Honda spark plugs and have never found one seized. In fact the opposite is more common. I’ve seen them blown back into the coil a decent number of times. Coils don’t appreciate that. That’s said, it certainly doesn’t mean it won’t happen. Cars surprise me all the time.

Any type of maintenance done earlier than recommended is great. You can’t over-maintain your car!

As Mal Paso mentioned, plug wires are also wise to do at the same time. OEM Honda wires are the best I’ve found yet. A good friend of mine built a Civic with a 700hp turbocharged B20. He paid out the nose for high end aftermarket wires and found the OEM gave more efficient ignition.

While you’re at it swap out the distributor cap and rotor. For my personal cars I keep a fresh igniter on hand as well. Twice now I’ve had igniters give up the ghost after a tune up. Nothing like sinking money into your car only to have it crank without spark. I guess they just couldn’t keep up with the new parts.Distributor cap and rotor? What on earth are you driving? a Pinto? No such animals on autos since about 1980

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[fecmech]

I'm obviously not recommending this but my daughter just had the plugs changed in her 2005 Accord 4 banger at 196K! I had driven the car a couple months before and it being a stick shift I wound it up over 6 grand for each shift, it never missed a beat! The electrodes were burned back into the insulators! Modern electronic ignition fires just about any gap.

[TyGuy]

Distributor cap and rotor? What on earth are you driving? a Pinto? No such animals on autos since about 1980

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What am I driving? A 1995 Honda del Sol SI with 421,XXX miles on the original engine and transmission and only second clutch. And yes, it does still have a distributor.

But we’re discussing a 2002 Accord l4. It’s the last year of the Accords with F series engine which were also fitted with distributors. 2003 saw the introduction of of the K series engines in the Accord and thus the individual coils over plugs.

[Norcal707]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions everyone! Will leave the current platinum plugs in for another 25k unless mileage starts to drop.

I bought the car from the original owner with 126k miles in March 2018 - motor was replaced 40k prior by the Honda dealer he had servicing done by after one of their Techs either forgot to refill oil after service or didn't add enough, causing engine damage. Clutch/timing belt, oil & water pump were replaced at same time at request of the owner. Motor is very quiet with no abnormal/weird noise and runs very well. First thing I did was replace all fluids, plugs/wires/dist. cap, had valves checked, and replaced clutch again last year as it was worn.

[Finster101]

In over 35 years of turning wrenches professionally I have never put anti-seize on spark plugs. I have also never had one pull threads coming out. A little finesse goes a long way.

[Handloader109]

What am I driving? A 1995 Honda del Sol SI with 421,XXX miles on the original engine and transmission and only second clutch. And yes, it does still have a distributor.

But we’re discussing a 2002 Accord l4. It’s the last year of the Accords with F series engine which were also fitted with distributors. 2003 saw the introduction of of the K series engines in the Accord and thus the individual coils over plugs.Didn't know and haven't seen an engine with distributor and rotor in decades. obviously I've never owned a Honda. I thought they were ahead of everyone else.
Thanks for the info.
My f150, 2005 model goes through the dang individual coils. only changed plugs at 105,000 and I guess they are due now at 220,000. Never had issue with my Miatas, changed usually at about 80 to 100,000 which was interval. sold one at 230,000 other was killed at 195,000

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[TyGuy]

Didn't know and haven't seen an engine with distributor and rotor in decades. obviously I've never owned a Honda. I thought they were ahead of everyone else.
Thanks for the info.
My f150, 2005 model goes through the dang individual coils. only changed plugs at 105,000 and I guess they are due now at 220,000. Never had issue with my Miatas, changed usually at about 80 to 100,000 which was interval. sold one at 230,000 other was killed at 195,000

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I think it was a matter of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” We don’t see many issues out of the factory dizzy. Aftermarket ones are a crap shoot. I replaced mine with an A/M after the internal shaft seal started leaking and Honda doesn’t offer the seal. It eventually started leaking as well and recently fried one of the internal position sensors. I ended up digging my factory distributor back out and stripping it apart to match the internal seal. No problem since.

I used to own a 1990 Miata and it was also a distributor style ignition. That 1.6L lasted until at least ‘94. Not sure about the 1.8L that followed. Sold mine with just shy of 250K on the clock. What a great little car! I beat the thing mercilessly and it just kept chugging along.

[megasupermagnum]

In the 80's Asian cars were miles ahead of the American brands. By the 90's everyone was competitive, and saw some of the best cars and trucks ever made. In a lot of ways, Honda in the 90's and 2000's provided a better car than many, but not necessarily the one people wanted. Honda always was more mechanical than the American brands. That doesn't make them beind, it just makes them different. I can't speak for new ones, but that 2002 has adjustable valves, and still has a timing belt. Sure the American cars had hydraulic lifters and timing chains, but is it really better? It's only a little less work short term, then look at all the problems people have with high hour engines with chain problems and lifter tick.

I do think a distributor isn't the best thing, but on a car it isn't like it's getting soaked all time like on a truck. DIS, and coil on plug are definitely superior technology, which is why Honda eventually went to that. All of them used distributors at least until the switch to fuel injection in the late 80's. Ford was one of the first to ditch them. Chevy and Dodge kept distributors for a while. Odd to me, the trucks seem to have kept distributors the longest. I'm thinking dodge ran them to around 1999. Chevy ran them on their small block forever as far as I know, which was until 2002ish when they went entirely to the LS series. I'm fairly sure they kept using a distributor on their 4.3 V6 well into the 2000's.

Don't quote me on those years, but distributors are not antique tech yet. I still work on plenty of trucks that have them, not so many cars. Give it another 10-15 years, and they will be relegated to classics only.

[TyGuy]

In the 80's Asian cars were miles ahead of the American brands. By the 90's everyone was competitive, and saw some of the best cars and trucks ever made. In a lot of ways, Honda in the 90's and 2000's provided a better car than many, but not necessarily the one people wanted. Honda always was more mechanical than the American brands. That doesn't make them beind, it just makes them different. I can't speak for new ones, but that 2002 has adjustable valves, and still has a timing belt. Sure the American cars had hydraulic lifters and timing chains, but is it really better? It's only a little less work short term, then look at all the problems people have with high hour engines with chain problems and lifter tick.

I do think a distributor isn't the best thing, but on a car it isn't like it's getting soaked all time like on a truck. DIS, and coil on plug are definitely superior technology, which is why Honda eventually went to that. All of them used distributors at least until the switch to fuel injection in the late 80's. Ford was one of the first to ditch them. Chevy and Dodge kept distributors for a while. Odd to me, the trucks seem to have kept distributors the longest. I'm thinking dodge ran them to around 1999. Chevy ran them on their small block forever as far as I know, which was until 2002ish when they went entirely to the LS series. I'm fairly sure they kept using a distributor on their 4.3 V6 well into the 2000's.

Don't quote me on those years, but distributors are not antique tech yet. I still work on plenty of trucks that have them, not so many cars. Give it another 10-15 years, and they will be relegated to classics only.

The current Honda l4s have switched to timing chains (this 2002 was one of the last with a belt). The 6 cyl vehicles are still belt driven cams. All models still have adjustable valves.

Personally, I like a timing belt. The parts are cheaper than a chain drive and I can knock it out after work in an evening. I like knowing it’s all fresh every 100k.

OP, sorry we derailed your simple question thread… :)

[jim147]

In over 35 years of turning wrenches professionally I have never put anti-seize on spark plugs. I have also never had one pull threads coming out. A little finesse goes a long way.

You are very good or very lucky. I spent years in a machine shop doing heads and engines. Fixing spark plug threads was second only to broken exhaust manifold bolts. I got very good at it. I still have taps for both sizes of spark plugs. The Harley heads came in so often I had a special jig made up to put keencerts in them.

[rbuck351]

Aluminum and steel tend to grow together if not lubed. I worked as a Honda motorcycle mechanic for about 8 years and when an older bike came in that hadn't been apart for several years I would frequently have to use an impact screwdriver to shock loose a steel screw in the aluminum parts. Sometimes it would strip the head of the screw before coming loose. I would drill the head off the screw and remove the part then use vice grips, kroil and a hammer to twist and shock the screw until it came out. Spark plugs in aluminum heads will do the same if left in long enough without lube. Most of the time you can finesse them out but it just makes life easier if you use anti seize.
Later I worked in a couple of auto engine rebuild shops and putting heli coils in aluminum heads was fairly common.

[megasupermagnum]

I never put anti-seize on any of my plugs either, but as I said earlier, I change them before they become a problem. Most spark plugs have what looks like a nickel plating, but by 100,000 miles they are usually starting to rust, full of engine gunk in the threads, and the aluminum sure doesn't help, but I've not found iron heads that much better. My preferred method is to spray some lube like PB blaster on them, loosen them, kind of work it into the threads, then slowly take them out. It isn't that they come out that hard, but when you are bent over a fender, elbow one way, hand reaching into the only open hole, razor sharp plastic all around, getting those plugs out can be less than enjoyable. It's way easier to change them early, crack them loose with the socket, then take them out with your fingers. I won't say anti-seize is a bad idea, but every manufacture I'm aware of says not to do it. I believe it has more to do with ape hands stripping threads. I see no good reason to do it, as I have yet to see a spark plug with 100,000 miles that didn't look like it was worn out 50,000 miles ago.

[jonp]

I change the oil every 5,000 miles or spring and fall although with the Valvoline Syn Blend it's not needed that often but it's cheap insurance and i like to do it. I change the plugs and wires immediately on every used car I buy as well as all the fluids and belts except the timing and then every 50,000 or so on the plugs. When it's time to change the timing belt I change the plugs and wires at the same time. These intervals are well under what's recommended I think but I don't mind doing them.

I also rotate the tires twice a year and look at everything under the car. Anything that looks remotely worn gets replaced. Brakes, ball joints etc.

My 1999 CRV is running fine with 200,000 miles and I'm going to keep it just to see how long it go's. Only problem so far is the transmission. First one went out due to my error, no I'm not going to go into how stupid I was. Second was a used one and it just let go so I'm looking for another one.

[jonp]

In over 35 years of turning wrenches professionally I have never put anti-seize on spark plugs. I have also never had one pull threads coming out. A little finesse goes a long way.

If you owned a 2004-2008 F150 with the 5.4 Triton you sure would have. Ford makes a tool specifically to pull broken plugs from these engines.

[Lloyd Smale]

it isnt just aluminum heads either. My dads buddy was a cheap skate and only fixed his truck when it wouldnt run. He had an early 80s chev with a 305 in it. It started running rough at a 120k so he took it to the shop to have the plugs changed. 3 out of 8 were seized into the heads and the heads had to be removed and they ended having to put coils in 2 of them. Brother in law had one of those triton nightmares. He not only had to have coils put in but to pull the heads off you had to remove the front fenders. That nightmare cost him thousands of dollars and he will never own another ford. All could have been avoided if ford would have just used a few cents worth a of anti seize. As to finesse. Id like to see someone remove the plugs on a 90s lt1 vette with finesse. It takes extensions two swivels and some bloody knuckles period. Almost easier to pull the motor.

[jonp]

As to finesse. Id like to see someone remove the plugs on a 90s lt1 vette with finesse. It takes extensions two swivels and some bloody knuckles period. Almost easier to pull the motor.

Much like the rear, passenger side plug on the 5.4 Triton. I ended up taking the valve cover off

[TyGuy]

Aluminum and steel tend to grow together if not lubed. I worked as a Honda motorcycle mechanic for about 8 years and when an older bike came in that hadn't been apart for several years I would frequently have to use an impact screwdriver to shock loose a steel screw in the aluminum parts. Sometimes it would strip the head of the screw before coming loose. I would drill the head off the screw and remove the part then use vice grips, kroil and a hammer to twist and shock the screw until it came out. Spark plugs in aluminum heads will do the same if left in long enough without lube. Most of the time you can finesse them out but it just makes life easier if you use anti seize.
Later I worked in a couple of auto engine rebuild shops and putting heli coils in aluminum heads was fairly common.

This effect is known as electrochemical or galvanic corrosion. It occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact with each other resulting in electrons passing from one to the other. Manufacturers can prevent or reduce the effects of the process using a number of platings or coatings. Moisture exclusion can also be preventative as water between the metals is the electrolyte that allows the transfer of electrons.

Jonp mentions the Ford Triton engines which are notorious for seized plugs. Because these specific engines have such a reputation it leads me to believe Ford either failed to use proper coatings/plating (went cheap), failed to prevent water access (poor engineering), or the protection measures were consistently compromised during the manufacturing process (poor training). This isn’t a jab at Ford as every manufacturer has to manage these issues.

[TyGuy]

I change the oil every 5,000 miles or spring and fall although with the Valvoline Syn Blend it's not needed that often but it's cheap insurance and i like to do it. I change the plugs and wires immediately on every used car I buy as well as all the fluids and belts except the timing and then every 50,000 or so on the plugs. When it's time to change the timing belt I change the plugs and wires at the same time. These intervals are well under what's recommended I think but I don't mind doing them.

I also rotate the tires twice a year and look at everything under the car. Anything that looks remotely worn gets replaced. Brakes, ball joints etc.

My 1999 CRV is running fine with 200,000 miles and I'm going to keep it just to see how long it go's. Only problem so far is the transmission. First one went out due to my error, no I'm not going to go into how stupid I was. Second was a used one and it just let go so I'm looking for another one.

The first generation automatic CR-Vs have struggled with transmissions as they’ve aged. It’s vital to keep up with transmission fluid service. My sister drives a ‘99 with around 250k on the clock and is all original but the transmission is starting to struggle. My typical recommendation is an interval of no more than 30k but won’t hurt doing it more frequently. One of our Elements had a rough life prior to our acquisition and I change the tranny fluid every other oil change. I’ll start dialing it back after a few more changes but I want to get as much of the debris out as possible. NEVER power flush a Honda transmission. Drain and refill only and I only recommend OEM fluid. It’s the only fluid I insist on OEM. Be sure to clean the magnet on the drain plug while you have it out.

[rbuck351]

I changed plugs for a friend on one of the 5.4 Tritons as the shop was going to charge him several hundred dollars to do the job. I can see why. Just getting the plug wires off the back two passenger plugs without destroying them took some time. I used anti seize on the plugs and dielectric grease on the wires even though I had decided to never change plugs on a Triton again.

Electro chemical corrosion is real and it is worse on dirt bikes that are in water a lot, creek crossings mud holes and just being out in the weather a lot. Using anti seize prevents having to use finesse or spending a bunch to get someone else to get a plug out or fix threads.

[jonp]

The first generation automatic CR-Vs have struggled with transmissions as they’ve aged. It’s vital to keep up with transmission fluid service. My sister drives a ‘99 with around 250k on the clock and is all original but the transmission is starting to struggle. My typical recommendation is an interval of no more than 30k but won’t hurt doing it more frequently. One of our Elements had a rough life prior to our acquisition and I change the tranny fluid every other oil change. I’ll start dialing it back after a few more changes but I want to get as much of the debris out as possible. NEVER power flush a Honda transmission. Drain and refill only and I only recommend OEM fluid. It’s the only fluid I insist on OEM. Be sure to clean the magnet on the drain plug while you have it out.

I totally agree on the OEM fluid for the transmission and rear for Hondas. Measure out 1 quart and replace. Drive 500 miles, measure out 1 quart and replace. Done. Original trans worked fine but my mistake caused the fail. Only thing Honda screwed up on the vehicle was the internal trans filter.

On this rig i have replaced fluids, plugs and wires, belts, water pump, ball joints, tie rods, brakes, rotors, exhaust from front to tailpipe including cat, struts, wiper motor, fuel pump (access take out rear seat!) and probably some other things. Now im running a new rear brake line. Almost all didnt need to be replaced but i like to tinker and see how things go together and i wanted to replace all with the cheapest Chinese Ebay parts i could find to see how they last vs OEM. So far no failures. I have less than $1,000 in parts in this and got it dirt cheap in the first place. Total experiment at this point but runs like a top. All parts replaced in the driveway with tools most anyone has.

Best thing those first Gen Hondas have right is the spare mounted on the back tailgate where you can get to it and under the trunk carpet is a mini picnic table exactly the right height for a shooting rest

[jonp]

I changed plugs for a friend on one of the 5.4 Tritons as the shop was going to charge him several hundred dollars to do the job. I can see why. Just getting the plug wires off the back two passenger plugs without destroying them took some time. I used anti seize on the plugs and dielectric grease on the wires even though I had decided to never change plugs on a Triton again.

Electro chemical corrosion is real and it is worse on dirt bikes that are in water a lot, creek crossings mud holes and just being out in the weather a lot. Using anti seize prevents having to use finesse or spending a bunch to get someone else to get a plug out or fix threads.

The motor is strong and I have the HD towing package. Mileage Hwy abiut 17mpg but i can pull 5,000lbs and not notice it except when i stop at the pump. I think rating is 9,600 lbs and i hace no doubt it will do it. If anyone buys one in good shape, 5.4 Triton, immediately do two things. Change the plugs and wires and use anti seize then do a timing job replacing the cam phasers and use after market metal chain guides to replace the factory plastic ones. I did not do this and it cost me $2,000

[Lloyd Smale]

i guess why when i can buy a ls chev that does the same and gets 3 or 4 mpg better economy and is trouble free. Theres been bad years for them too. The first few years of that cyl deactivation cause lots of valve issues but I dont recommend buying them and putting 2 or 3k into fixing them when for that 2 or 3k more i can buy one a few years newer that doesnt have the problem. Now if i would have bought one not knowing id probably fix it. Bit the problems are known now and id avoid a triton like the plague. Just like id avoid those 08-11 silverados.

[jonp]

i guess why when i can buy a ls chev that does the same and gets 3 or 4 mpg better economy and is trouble free. Theres been bad years for them too. The first few years of that cyl deactivation cause lots of valve issues but I dont recommend buying them and putting 2 or 3k into fixing them when for that 2 or 3k more i can buy one a few years newer that doesnt have the problem. Now if i would have bought one not knowing id probably fix it. Bit the problems are known now and id avoid a triton like the plague. Just like id avoid those 08-11 silverados.

I would not recommend a 5.4 Triton either, Lloyd. I wish I had researched is better before buying.

[Lloyd Smale]

yup few know about the crap years of the cyl deactivation silverados too. they tend to starve for oil in the valve train causing premature seal and guide wear and even dropped valves. It to can be fixed but the fix is as expensive as doing the triton.