Two guns, same problem.

[Cattleman406]

Having a problem with two of my guns leading to all h-e-double hockey sticks. One is a cheapo RIA 1911 I bought originally to test handloads in before they got shot in my FNP-45, when i was still a new reloader full of trepidation about causing a rapid disassembly of my guns. My pet cast load for 45 auto is a 200 gr LRNFP or LSWC, depending on what's available and over 3.9 grains of bullseye. Obviously very low velocity and very low recoil. Ive noticed only in the 1911 does it tend to rapidly build up lead near the throat, and it is a royal pain getting it out! Even after 50 rounds it's got a significant amount of fouling. Have not noticed this in the FN, and shot them through a friend's XD and had no problems. Surely this couldn't be a bullet problem, and I know they're not high enough velocity to cause that severe of leading. I havent slugged the bore but like i said, being such low velocity you wouldn't think it to be a problem.
Im having the same issue with a Pietta GWII SAA clone in 357. I bought it new in May and have put exclusively 158g LSWC over 3.3 gr of bullseye, my old standard 38 plinking load. Ive used this same load for as long as I've shot 38, and in multiple different guns with zero problems with leading. Ive only put 400 or so rounds downrange with it, and someone suggested that my barrel isnt "seasoned". Ive always been taught that barrel break in is a myth especially on handguns so I really haven't given that idea much thought.
Is this just a problem with potentially oversized bores, or something else I should look into? They shoot as accurately as I can with these particular loads.

[nicholst55]

Have you read Glen Fryxell's book From Ingot to Target? Chapter 7 discusses the causes of, and cures for, leading.

[358429]

Is really easy to check the revolver. Clean the cylinder really good then get bullet and try to shove it through using only finger pressure and a plastic pen or a wood dowel or something like that.

My guess is that the cylinder will not let the Bullet Pass through.

Check fitment again using the same test when the gun is dirty.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[243winxb]

Slug barrels. Size bullets to groove diameter. Test. If still leading, increase bullet diameter .001" try again.

1911- a ring of lead may be shaved when seating bullets, this ring builds up in the chamber on firing.

If all else fails, coat bullets with Alox.

[Thumbcocker]

My guess is hard undersized boolits.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Cattleman406,
welcome to the forum.
Can I assume by your vague description of the projectiles you are using, that you don't cast/size your own?

If so, then I agree 100% with Thumbcocker.

My guess is hard undersized boolits.

Commercial cast bullets are notorious for being a hard alloy and sized to Jacketed bullet standards. They require a "snappy" load to avoid lead fouling in some guns.

[1006]

If you bought a large number of bullets and are now committed the using them, try increasing the powder charge with the intent of getting the bullet to expand when the powder hits it in the rear upon ignition(obturate). In some load manual many years ago there is a description of analyzing the leading based on where it occurs.

Read this; it may help:

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm

[Soundguy]

also in that same vein.. many of the commercial cast bullets in addition to being undersized so that they are guaranteed to fit *everything* and are very hard to prevent damage during shipping, also use a real hard wax lube that I'm not impressed with. Any time I use a commercial hard cast.. I tumble lube them in a thin coat of felix lube or alox.

[Larry Gibson]

As with others, assuming you are using hard cast commercial bullets?

If so it is the hard wax lube that is mostly the problem. I suggest you get a bottle of Lee Liquid Alox or the similar product from White label. Apply a single thin coat as per the instructions and let it dry thoroughly before loading. Sizing the bullets again isn't necessary. Again, a thin coat and let dry thoroughly. I used to remove the hard wax lube and then lube the bullets but found it's not necessary, just relube over the factory lube. I use this with all commercial cast now and have found it prevents the leading you are experiencing almost 99% of the time.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Years ago I had a match grade 1911 that I shot commercial 200 swc hard cast in. Had to give the rounds a stiff taper crimp to fit the match grade chamber. Was using VV N310 powder, just enough to make major power factor. Gun only showed very minor leading after many rounds. I would guess your barrel is a bit loose ahead of the chamber. Slug the barrel with an oiled pure lead bullet and see if it shows less resistance when you near the chamber. If you were casting your own you could try increasing the bullet diameter. You could try reducing the amount you taper crimp as well. Crimp just enough so your rounds will plunk into the chamber.

Larry's suggestion is a good one too.

[jimb16]

Check the diameter of the chamber mouth and then the diameter of the barrel. If the chamber mouth is smaller than the barrel, that is a problem.

[Bigslug]

It may seem counter-intuitive, but your low velocity MAY be the problem with that bullet.

Commercial cast often runs harder to avoid deformation in shipping. Same goes for the hard wax lubes commonly used. What you may have is a case of the projectile not properly "slugging up" or "swaging down" to fill the bore, and you're getting flame cutting around the base of the bullet with a lube that isn't really doing it's job of forming a gasket. Since Bullseye (or anything else you're likely to use in a .45 ACP load) will develop its peak pressure very quickly, "the show is over" toward the back end of the barrel.

Same stuff applies to the wheelgun, but a common problem on modern revolvers is "frame crush", that is, your bore and groove diameters are otherwise correct, but the threads of the barrel fit the frame so tightly that the bore gets squeezed .001-002" at that junction. Bullet gets squished too small at the forcing cone, then suffers gas blowby once it enters the nominal bore dimension ahead of the frame. This is easily discovered with a set of pin gauges that cover the .345"-.348" range where your correct bore diameter likely is. Tapping a pure lead slug down from the muzzle works too - just so long as you slow down and carefully feel for extra resistance as you approach the frame. Fire-lapping with light loads and grit-impregnated bullets is the common solution.

Could also be your cylinder throats are too tight - though I think this less likely on a modern SAA clone manufactured with the knowledge that the main diet is likely to be lead. Pin gauges of .357", .358" and .359" would tell you much there.

[Rodfac]

Larry's comment: I suggest you get a bottle of Lee Liquid Alox or the similar product from White label. Apply a single thin coat as per the instructions and let it dry thoroughly before loading. Sizing the bullets again isn't necessary. Again, a thin coat and let dry thoroughly. I used to remove the hard wax lube and then lube the bullets but found it's not necessary, just re-lube over the factory lube. I use this with all commercial cast now and have found it prevents the leading you are experiencing almost 99% of the time.

This is my practice as well and works as he advised.

I'd also point out that for quick and easy lead removal, try Chore Boy all copper kitchen scouring pads. Cut a piece and wrap it around an old bore brush and it'll remove most all lead fouling in a half dozen passes. Be sure to get the all copper variety as most sold in Walmart et al, are steel with a thin copper wash over them. I bought a ten pack of the all copper variety on Amazon years ago and have yet to use them all up. If you do go to Walmart or where ever, take a kitchen magnet with you to try on the pads. You don't want steel pads scraping away at your barrel's rifling.

Best regards, Rod

[FergusonTO35]

As with others, assuming you are using hard cast commercial bullets?

If so it is the hard wax lube that is mostly the problem. I suggest you get a bottle of Lee Liquid Alox or the similar product from White label. Apply a single thin coat as per the instructions and let it dry thoroughly before loading. Sizing the bullets again isn't necessary. Again, a thin coat and let dry thoroughly. I used to remove the hard wax lube and then lube the bullets but found it's not necessary, just relube over the factory lube. I use this with all commercial cast now and have found it prevents the leading you are experiencing almost 99% of the time.

This, 100%. A good coat of alox can solve alot of problems. I dunk my rifle boolits in it even after I run them through the Lyman.

[MT Gianni]

As a general statement, leading in the chamber area is general fit or alloy, in the muzzle it's generally lube failure. Feel free to PM location, I am between Butte and Bozo.