Info on Wheel Weights Needed

[JAMESGR]

I have two questions that may (probably) have been beat to death. I'm sorting 6 gallons of WW's and finding a lot of WW with only a number No other markings so,
1) how do you treat ww's with only a number and no other markings???

Also , finding several pieces of what appears to be some type of rubber stick-on ww. This is NON-SEGMENTED looks like it may have come a roll and the guy's just cut off the length needed so,
2) Is this stuff any good for casting?????

I'm finding very little of the older type lead segmented ww's.

I know the stick on ww need to be done outside away from anything I don't want covered with soot.

Thank you'
JAMES
JAMESGR

[Dusty Bannister]

Foam rubber type weights are not economically worth the effort for the little return of usable material.

The simple test for the other weights you mention is to "nip" them with side cutters to test for hardness. If they cut or mark easily with side cutters they are lead, if very difficult to cut, they are perhaps zinc or other metal. You might also check with a magnet on the end of the weight, away from the metal clip. Iron will clearly attract the magnet.

[TyGuy]

In my experience, many of the ones marked only with their weight are lead. They have a particular shape and there are zinc weights that have a very similar shape but the “shoulders” are sharper on the lead weights. The zinc versions typically have a tiny ZN below the number but some are tough to see through the paint/coating. Others are just missing as if it was scraped off prior to paint.

The foam type stick on weights are a no-go. Our shop used them for a while but they are a pain so we switched to stick on steel or iron weights. Those rubbery foam ones will make a mess of your pot.

[fredj338]

Most ww today are not going to be lead based. If the buckets are from years ago, then yes, smash test or snip test. If it smashes/cuts it is likely lead based. Anything wrapped in rubber to me isnt worth the stink & smoke, but ymmv. tape weights should be tested the same way & the tape is also a smoky proposition but it can also be removed soaking for a bit in gasoline or mineral spirits.

[TyGuy]

286442

Here is an example of what I meant by the sharper shoulder. Top is lead, bottom is zinc. This one is clearly marked as zinc but it’s what I had on hand and the shape is shared by other lesser marked zinc weights.

A pair of side cutters is a great way to learn which designs are lead and which aren’t. Eventually you’ll be able to ID them by eye and use the side cutters to confirm.

[TyGuy]

Also notice the lead is noticeably smaller than the zinc of the same weight. It’s another good hint

[oley55]

James,

the very first sticky in the 'Lead and Lead Alloys' section is titled: 'Guide to hand sorting wheel weights'. Then scrolling down past the sticky's are a number of threads individually addressing you questions.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?57-Lead-and-Lead-Alloys

[reddog81]

FWIW when sorting I toss all the trash into one container(including rubber...), lead into another pile, questionable stuff into a separate pile to be tested later. I find it easier to sort everything rather than stopping every minute to test if something is lead.

Lead is very malleable and will deform easily if dragged across a concrete block with mild pressure. Zinc doesn't deform nearly as easily. Test a few known pieces and this test goes very quickly without use of a tool (other than the block).

[oldhenry]

If in doubt, drop it on concrete. Lead will make a thud type sound. Zinc will make a clink type sound.

I do the side cutter test 1st.

Those marked Zn or Fe go straight to the trash pile.

I separate the COWW from the SOWW. I treat the SOWW as pure lead. My favorite alloy is 50% COWW & 50% lead with a small amount of tin added.

[Hanzy4200]

My scrap yard just told me this evening they are only paying $.05 per lb, which translates to sale price of $.10 per lb. I might have to go digging through them.

[JAMESGR]

Thanks Guys, this is what I was thinking. I separated those that I pretty much know are lead in one bucket, those with only a number into a second, and the rest into the third, I'll throw the rubber soww into this bucket. I'll do a drag test on those in the second bucket tomorrow. Thinking about tacking down a strip of emery cloth to drag over.
OLEY55, thanks for the reminder, checking the "Lead and Lead Alloys" forum didn't even cross my mind. Good sticky and a lot of information.
I melted (smelted) some pure lead sheathing that I had into ingots today. Then mixed the little bit left in the bottom of the lead pot with some old fishing weights, and the few good lead stick-on WW I had and cast them. Only got about 30#'s. Probably not exactly pure but real close. mix it 20-1, powder coat and choot 'em.
I really appreciate the help,
JAMES
JAMESGR

[gwpercle]

You can't 100% tell by looking at them . Trust me on this ...

You can 100% trust a pair of diagonal cutters . You can cut a lead wheel weight .
Zinc and steel can not be cut . You have to test every one in the bucket with cutters !

No If's And's or But's ... test every weight ! They will fool you every time if you don't .
Testing with cutters is just too darned simple not to do it ... contaminating a batch of metal is foolish when the test is so easy to do .

As oldhenry says best all around mix is 50-50 COWW and soft lead (stick on WW , range scrap and scrap lead building materials )
Gary

[oley55]

You can't 100% tell by looking at them . Trust me on this ...

You can 100% trust a pair of diagonal cutters . You can cut a lead wheel weight .
Zinc and steel can not be cut . You have to test every one in the bucket with cutters !

No If's And's or But's ... test every weight ! They will fool you every time if you don't .
Gary

^^^good advice right there. I agree with the exception of those wheel weights which show deep gouge marks from being pried off wheels. Also, rather than diagonal cutters I use the small hand pruning clippers. They seem to stave off the blisters better.

[MrWolf]

For the soww's, an easy way to remove the adhesive is to let them soak a few days in garbage acetone, mineral spirits, etc. I just tossed all my leftover stuff in a bucket with lid and let them soak. Worked great.

[JoeJames]

I use a blade in my old swiss army knife. If it cuts and peels a bit, it's lead. If it skitters on it, it ain't. BTW on whether you can still get lead wheel weights - location, location, location. Here in the Arkansas Delta, I am still coming up with good wheel weights from the local farmer's tire shop.

[gwpercle]

^^^good advice right there. I agree with the exception of those wheel weights which show deep gouge marks from being pried off wheels. Also, rather than diagonal cutters I use the small hand pruning clippers. They seem to stave off the blisters better.

Any cutter will do , small pruning clippers is great idea ... they are designed for more cutting .
I've gotten to the point where I nip all of them even the ones that look like lead and have gouges ... I'm just a cautious person who doesn't trust anything but my nippers .

Louisiana hasn't outlawed lead yet and a bucket still yields more lead than zinc/steel . I'm sure that will change as we shift to the ...you know .

Gary

[Targa]

Here in Colorado I sorted through approx 400 lbs of wheel weights for 80lbs of useable lead which was a pretty rotten return on the time invested sorting them, I have since given up on wheels weights as a source of lead. As mentioned, ZN, FE and the plastic coated stuff went right in the trash pile. The rest were drop tested on my concrete floor and if I had any doubts I snipped them with shears. I will say though that if you can can get enough good wheel weights they are about as good as it gets for casting with just a bit of tin added.

[lightman]

I have two questions that may (probably) have been beat to death. I'm sorting 6 gallons of WW's and finding a lot of WW with only a number No other markings so,
1) how do you treat ww's with only a number and no other markings???

The number is the weight, either oz or grams. I make a test cut with a pair of dykes.

Also , finding several pieces of what appears to be some type of rubber stick-on ww. This is NON-SEGMENTED looks like it may have come a roll and the guy's just cut off the length needed so,
2) Is this stuff any good for casting?????

No, it contains very little if any lead.

I'm finding very little of the older type lead segmented ww's.

I know the stick on ww need to be done outside away from anything I don't want covered with soot.

I just melt my stick-on weights like any others. As soon as it really starts smoking I'll light it. Thats helps with the smoke problem. I also live on the edge of town on a large lot away from any close neighbors.

Thank you'
JAMES
JAMESGR

As has been said, location is important for wheelweights. I'm still getting 60-65% lead in the ones that I'm getting. Sometimes more. I'll probably quit when it drops to less than 50%, but I also consider myself to be a member of "The Lifetime Supply Club"!

[JAMESGR]

Thanks for the replies, I got about 25# that I feel sure a lead ww. I'll check those that are questionable using one of the cut test mentioned. Hopefully I'll be lucky and end up with 50# of useable ww's. MAYBE!!!!!!
Thanks
JAMES
JAMESGR

[Texas by God]

I bought new tires last week and asked for some wheel weights. About 15# in a cardboard box. About 7# passed the tin snips test( thanks guys!)today.
Pretty good deal for free, I think.

Sent from my SM-A716U using Tapatalk

[Wooserco]

This is making my purchase of range scrap for $1/lb look even better. Rendered down to 40 lb loaf pan ingots. I intend to melt dow to 2 lb ingots and combine all so that I have an alloy that is the same. Drop one ingot of each batch into the pot and they should all be the same.

[jimb16]

As an additional precaution, I slow melt my weights at 700° which is below the melting point for non-lead wheel weights. That way I don't contaminate the good ones. They float to the surface and can be picked off with the steel clips.

[JAMESGR]

Thanks for the replies. I finally got around to checking the questionable WW. Used a utility knife and just cut into the WW. Those that cut easy went into the melt bucket, and those that didn't went into the scrap bucket. Now only have to melt and flux, then cast into ingots.
Thank for all of the advise
JAMES
JAMESGR